What's new
By:
Filters

Do you anti-seize lug nuts?

Make 'em silver?

  • Always

    Votes: 58 40.3%

  • Never

    Votes: 86 59.7%
  • Total voters
    144
If the threads are starting to gall or look ugly occasionally I will use it.

When I was in in the oilfield we experimented measuring elongations of down hole MWD tool connections and found antisieze or not they were pretty close to the specified stretch.
 
Poll is flawed, needs a bacon grease option.

I like to wire brush the threads and use a little anti rust agent, WD40 etc. Sometimes a very small dab of silver gizz, but not much. Studs do get rusty here.
 
ExWrench said:
Who the fuck said anything about putting antiseize on the mating surfaces of the lug nuts? :confused: That's fucking idiotic.
Click to expand...

It’s idiotic but it also seems to happen pretty consistently if you are using anti seize on lug threads. I see it regularly.
 
DMG said:
It’s idiotic but it also seems to happen pretty consistently if you are using anti seize on lug threads. I see it regularly.
Click to expand...
Customers rides that they’ve been working on themselves? Old timers bringing them in?

Guess I gotta clarify after reading the comments. When I antiseize the studs on my old truck I just give a light swipe on the end of the stud. I’m not slathering it on so thick it’s pushing a mound all the way inside the WMS. Not getting any on the taper of the nut or the wheel. That truck has 9/16” fine thread studs with a torque spec of 140 pounds. I torque them to 100 pounds with a proto clicker type torque wrench. It’s the proper kind of axle build where the studs have something like 2” of stud to nut thread engagement on 8 lugs per wheel. I’m not spending the kind of time Tech Tim copy paste explained about running each nut on & off to get an even film :laughing:.
 
I should clarify my original statement as well....I wasn't saying I reapply it every time. More like "I put some anti seize on the lugs one time, and it's been there the next 10 years" kind of application. 🙂

And yes, only to the threads.

This has been very interesting to see the replies. That Engineer's Edge article is also pretty cool, and reinforced what I thought I knew from experience. :smokin:
 
I live in the rust belt of the North and never use anti seize on anything that doesn't specifically call for it in the instructions. I've never once piled up a wheel stud. I've replaced them only once or twice on all of the hundreds of vehicles I've owned over the years. Do things rust together, sure, but there are tools or tricks to get things apart without too much effort.

My father oils his wheel studs at every seasonal oil change and has frequent failures. The oil collects dirt which holds moisture, including the brine that gets sprayed all over the place here in the winter, which rusts the threads out. The difference is remarkable, but he will never be convinced otherwise.

If it was a good idea, the OEM would call for lubricant, not specifically advise against it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DMG
1730291208897.png
 
Used to when I ran Fords. Not sure why, the studs broke frequently enough we didn't have to take them off.

Haven't been since switching back to RAM. Although we still do hubs/wheels on duallies. Had the same problem with Fords, wheels stuck together, wheel stuck to hub. Loosen the lug nuts and drive in circles if we couldn't break them free with a sledge after a couple swings.
 
rockdog57 said:
Never, but I did put that shit on the exhaust manifold bolts on my 7.3 when I replaced the manifolds and 90 percent of them broke off. Now the new ones back out and I’m kicking myself for using it on em. And yes I took out the inner fender wells and gave em some ugga duggas with my 3/8” impact.:mad3:
Click to expand...
more importantly did you use gaskets or did you put iron manifolds on iron heads as god intended
 
JR4X said:
Customers rides that they’ve been working on themselves? Old timers bringing them in?

Guess I gotta clarify after reading the comments. When I antiseize the studs on my old truck I just give a light swipe on the end of the stud. I’m not slathering it on so thick it’s pushing a mound all the way inside the WMS. Not getting any on the taper of the nut or the wheel. That truck has 9/16” fine thread studs with a torque spec of 140 pounds. I torque them to 100 pounds with a proto clicker type torque wrench. It’s the proper kind of axle build where the studs have something like 2” of stud to nut thread engagement on 8 lugs per wheel. I’m not spending the kind of time Tech Tim copy paste explained about running each nut on & off to get an even film :laughing:.
Click to expand...

Ditto on application. The only stuff that gets slathered is suspension hardware, especially bolts that go through sleeves.

For a while there I was going back and painting it on the exposed hardware after installing it to keep it rusting up, but that didn't work like I was hoping. It didn't actually seem to do anything at all. Hitting those with fluid film or the like works a lot better.
 
ExWrench said:
Why, so you don't have to look up or calculate lubricated torque values? :confused:
Click to expand...
Problem is, different lubes will be different.

This is one reason why we're seeing manufacturers go to a torque angle spec now on things....because lube/no lube / thread condition doesn't matter.

The objective is to stretch the fastener X amount. On clean, new, dry threads, lets say that the OEM has determined that 100ft/lbs will stretch the wheel stud (I'll use M12x1.0 for simplicity here) 0.5mm. If I use loctite...while it's liquid, it may stretch the stud 0.7mm since it's sort of a lube when it's wet. If I use a good moly grease, 100ft/lbs may stretch that stud 1.0mm at 100ft/lbs. If that puts the stud in plastic deformation, it's game over. The tensile strength is gone, the working load will cause the stud to permantly stretch more, losing tension, and resulting in the nut falling off because it's now loose from being overtightened.

There's no reliable way to calculate the torque value requirements when add lube...you might get closer to the objective than using the standard torque spec, but it won't be "right". If you use the torque angle (low torque, just to remove clearance and arrive at the "zero" point, then +90 and +90), will stretch that fastener 0.5mm regardless of what you've slathered on it.


In the rust belt...one has to choice to simply replace everything every time the vehicle is serviced or use anti-sieze or grease or oil or whatever to try and keep rust manageable....so the rules need to get bent because option one isn't in the cards. Just understand what's happening to the fastener when you're changing things up and you'll probably be able to adjust your methods enough to be successful.
 
I don't like dry lug nuts so yes. Just a dab and torque to spec.
Normally, I only use it on stainless bolts because I don't want them to be permanent. :flipoff2:
 
I'm in the heart of the rust belt, on a quiet day we can hear our shit rusting. I put anti-seize on the wheel hubs to keep the wheels from seizing on the hub. The tire stores will not use it and if they find it on a truck they wipe it off because it's their policy.
If I work on a truck with rusty wheel studs I'll use WD40 on the threads.
 
JR4X said:
Customers rides that they’ve been working on themselves? Old timers bringing them in?

Guess I gotta clarify after reading the comments. When I antiseize the studs on my old truck I just give a light swipe on the end of the stud. I’m not slathering it on so thick it’s pushing a mound all the way inside the WMS. Not getting any on the taper of the nut or the wheel. That truck has 9/16” fine thread studs with a torque spec of 140 pounds. I torque them to 100 pounds with a proto clicker type torque wrench. It’s the proper kind of axle build where the studs have something like 2” of stud to nut thread engagement on 8 lugs per wheel. I’m not spending the kind of time Tech Tim copy paste explained about running each nut on & off to get an even film :laughing:.
Click to expand...


People can’t seem to use it without getting it everywhere.
 
Maybe that teacher should tell the students to run the lugnuts on by hand then tightening them with the proper torque wrench.

Anti Seize helps on lugnuts because lugnuts are the ones zapping them on with power tools:shaking:, that generates excess heat and fucks the threads up.

Lug nuts and studs are loose fitting and shouldn't require Anti Seize. So yeah, In a shop full of wrench monkeys, I could see it helping prevent replacing studs and lugnuts.


Anti seize should be used when the application calls for it on the hardware. Lugnuts have a loose shitty fit for a reason.

Environments, Thread fit "2A etc.", How often the assembly will get pulled apart as well as material makeup will always dictate when and where i will utilize Anti Seize.

And yes i use it on lugnuts that are not my daily drivers. My 2nd vehicle and 3rd do not see enough miles a year to rotate the tires so they get Anti Seize. The Brine, Salt, Sand, and snow up here dictates that I use it a lot on Chassis components. I don't know what fool wants to battle rusted crap:shaking:. I also often use anti seize along with PB Blaster or Penetrating oil. Anti Seize and the oil do a great job of saving weathered threads and rusted bolts. Well along with a small wire brush. Slather it on the exposed threads after penetrating oil and the threads are often saved along with the hardware.

Before the lube+torque Natzis come in, go study zinc, ni chrome and other coatings/treatment and then we can start talking serious on when and how to use lubricants and anti seize.
 
Last edited:
from a Engineering forum, it seems the general consensus is that anti seize will not cause the lugs to loosen, but perhaps could possibly cause too much axial force to be applied to the lug studs.

It also seems to be considered that the application of lubricants in general to properly torqued fasteners will not contribute to their loosening. It is generally considered that traverse movement is what causes fasteners to loosen

 
Lbhsbz said:
Just understand what's happening to the fastener when you're changing things up and you'll probably be able to adjust your methods enough to be successful.
Click to expand...
Yep - got it covered :beer:

DMG said:
People can’t seem to use it without getting it everywhere.
Click to expand...
Most people are idiots, but not all of them.

Some can even handle the responsibility of anti-seize :laughing:
 
cj3a said:
Not needed every time but I use a little grease. How many people use a torque wrench should be the question.
Click to expand...
Of those people: How many can say with any certainty that their torque wrench is still within spec.
 
Boss said:
I don't like dry lug nuts so yes. Just a dab and torque to spec.
Normally, I only use it on stainless bolts because I don't want them to be permanent. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

M92PV4U said:
My buddy never had a problem with stainless galling, until after I warned him about it :lmao:.
Click to expand...

Stainless fasteners that got assembled w/ oil (or dry) many moons ago, I often oil before disassembly. Learned that one the hard way :homer: - few things suck worse than breaking or cutting large stainless bolts because the nut's galled on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh