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Do you anti-seize lug nuts?

Make 'em silver?

  • Always

    Votes: 58 40.3%

  • Never

    Votes: 86 59.7%
  • Total voters
    144
Projectjunkie said:
Never

I worked at discount tire, they didn't, I worked at an oem dealership they didn't, as people have said, it affects the tq. I defer to the enginerds and lyers on this one

At best, something crusty might get a couple drops of oil or panther piss
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I mean, I worked at an OEM dealership too, they still did plenty of dumb, wrong, and/or "that's how I was taught" stuff. Regardless of right or wrong.
 
Lee said:
I mean, I worked at an OEM dealership too, they still did plenty of dumb, wrong, and/or "that's how I was taught" stuff. Regardless of right or wrong.
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I'm not knocking you for it, you do you


I'm deferring to the "industry standard" On this one, which I'll disregard in most cases if I see a flaw in their logic. On this one, "there's no wet spec" makes sense

Now if I was on a farm, or had an enthusiast vehicle I tinkered with more than drove, I'd probably oil the threads:homer:
 
clodhopper said:
I just count the ugga-duggas.
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Just lean on the air gun until it smokes. Just like Jiffy-Lube trained ya (I keed, I keed).

I use sneeze (yes, that's what we call it) on anything I want to unbolt or disassemble when it comes to wheels, suspension, body pans/armor, brakes, etc. I like when I take something apart and can tell I was the last one in there because of the coatings.

And anyone that does not use a torque wrench on their lugnuts is not passing grid tech on every track I've ever been to. YMMV.

ETA: someone below mentioned exhaust components. That's one I forgot but an important one to consider. Someone also mentioned about using too much - that is also key; a little goes a very long way. Oh, and if you ever want to prank someone, wipe a little bit of it on the back side of their vehicle's door handle. It's a mean one, but a good one....
 
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The open lugs on the f250 get coated in fluid film after the lugs have been inatalled too. At least when I drove it in winter anyways.
 
Kyle said:
Tire rotations should bring to light bad nuts well in advance of seizing.
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I am so horrible about doing that. I dont think the last 4+ sets of tires I have gone through were ever rotated :lmao:
 
Rustbelt here so Yep, anti-seize everything, hell I even sometimes use it where removable lock tight is required.
 
KenV said:
I aways wipe a bit onto the threads and scrub a bit of it on the wms on the wheel and hub surface to clean them both. I use the minimum torque value. Toyota, GM, Ford vehicles. Not one stud broken or loose wheel in 40+ years.
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I will concede i slather that shit on the hub surface of hubcentric stuff or anything with aluminum wheels.
 
Rooney77 said:
I've never used anti seize on anything and it's never been an issue.
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Come to the rust belt :mad3:

I use maxima chain wax on the studs and a shot down the lug. No rust issues. I also spray the hub face and disk register too. Everything comes apart like butter.
 
No need. Sounds like a good way for them to loosen.

In snow country running through all that shit, maaaaaaybe.
 
Always have, always will, especially stainess, exhaust, and wheel studs.. Previous owner of my K3500 did on everything, and I appreciate that. Also use it extensively Microwave antennas and towers, lots of stainless on stainless there.
 
Not unless they are really rusty or something. Honestly I can't stand the stuff most of the time, people use way to much and taking off 5 lug nuts makes it look like you jerked off the tin man.
 
Slather it on the hub mating surface, and if I get some on the threads, fine. Even when I was in the rust belt, never saw the need to put them on the threads specifically.
 
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A good friend of mine that has passed away told me a story about when Slick 50 first came out he put some on the studs when he rotated his tires on his Jeep Cherokee. He took it out on the interstate and it started violently shaking. He got it pulled over to the side of the road and he was missing lug nuts and others were loose :lmao:
 
I do. A light coat.
Always torque the lug nuts to spec.

On my fun car I typically re-check torque prior to each ride as I like to cane it in the nearby canyons.

Bought a nice Precision Instruments beam torque wrench for these tasks a few years back.
 
When I went through A&P school a zillion years ago. Unless otherwise specified torque values are for clean dry threads. I had a chart that listed different lubes and the torque adjustment factor. Some lubes called for 50% adjustment. So if you lube lug studs/nuts and torque to specified value you're overtorquing wihich can lead to damaged threads and failure. Could probably find a chart online somewhere.

edit; For rusty studs/nuts you should really take a wire wheel to them.
 
6869704x4 said:
When I went through A&P school a zillion years ago. Unless otherwise specified torque values are for clean dry threads. I had a chart that listed different lubes and the torque adjustment factor. Some lubes called for 50% adjustment. So if you lube lug studs/nuts and torque to specified value you're overtorquing wihich can lead to damaged threads and failure. Could probably find a chart online somewhere.

edit; For rusty studs/nuts you should really take a wire wheel to them.
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I think it’s in the ac43.13
 
I've used it very sparingly on the threads and a little heavier on hub centric parts, I'll torque 'em a little less than normal and send it. I've done it that way for 40+ years and never had a loose wheel.
 
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