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Cutting brakes Q

No way

No way

Viking Mothfukle
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May 19, 2020
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Under the bus
Planning to run right/left cutting brakes off a stock vehicle M/C through two solenoid valves. (line locks)
But, being the tard I am, I got to thinking :homer:
I wanted to plumb both MC outlets through a T-piece and then split left/right trough yet another T.
The thought being that the MC is set up for F/R, not L/R and proportioned with less pressure on the rear port.

But, if I run both MC ports through the same line.. fuck.. will one mess with the other or will I get the combined pressure through the one line?


Pretty sure I'm retarded, I just can't figure out which way :laughing:
 
That way if you have a brake line failure anywhere you loose all brakes. No go for me.
 
Not an issue. I'll be running e-brakes on separate calipers. Class rule.

My only concern is whether or not this will work as intended.
 
I think it'll work just fine.

I just don't understand the purpose of it vs plumbing it in a classic way. You don't need pressure valves since the drivetrain of a 4wd will balance the forces on it's own.
 
Purpose is simply to be able to brake both wheels on one side only and I've got a stock MC/vacuum booster installed already.
I'm poor and cheap :grinpimp:
 
Why would you want to brake both wheels on one side? If you brake just the rear wheel, it will turn more sharply. Both brakes will be a pull.
 
Az Scooter said:
Why would you want to brake both wheels on one side? If you brake just the rear wheel, it will turn more sharply. Both brakes will be a pull.
Click to expand...
Tight and highly uneven woodland terrain. Gotta brake whatever has traction
 
No way said:
Tight and highly uneven woodland terrain. Gotta brake whatever has traction
Click to expand...
just curious
every rand a tractor with turning brakes?

it will pivot on a wheel, but dragging the front end I would think would be a hinderance .....no?
 
A few moon buggies were plumbed for tank steer. Works great.

The ones I saw had some type of dual master cylinder not tandem so I can't give a good input on the OPs setup, except that in theory it should work.

Never know 'till you try.
 
SomeGuyFromOlympia said:
just curious
every rand a tractor with turning brakes?

it will pivot on a wheel, but dragging the front end I would think would be a hinderance .....no?
Click to expand...
Tractors usually have enough steering angle that you're barely dragging it if at all.
 
SomeGuyFromOlympia said:
just curious
every rand a tractor with turning brakes?

it will pivot on a wheel, but dragging the front end I would think would be a hinderance .....no?
Click to expand...
No, never a tractor. Have driven several buggies/rigs with this type of brake setup - it's quite common over here.
 
How are they plumbing it, if it's common ?
Sometimes it's best to mimick what works.
 
Usually hydroboost means a tandem master, like you have.

I'm a little confused.
 
No way said:
The thought being that the MC is set up for F/R, not L/R and proportioned with less pressure on the rear port.
Click to expand...
I thought most MC's had same size piston F/R and thus same pressure? Maybe run 4 line locks, one for each corner, and activate them in any combination?
 
Eric said:
I thought most MC's had same size piston F/R and thus same pressure? Maybe run 4 line locks, one for each corner, and activate them in any combination?
Click to expand...
They do? In that case I could run one side off of either MC-port.
I just ASSumed they'd setup the MC so that the rears got less pressure.

4 line locks is an option
 
Most systems I have dealt with have a proportioning valve separate from the MC that reduces pressure in the rear line. I'd say step 1 is to determine exactly what you have for a MC.
 
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