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2 more photos

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EndlessMtnFab said:
2 more photos

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Just from the pix you can see that's a 600 watt motor but with a really large 21" blade.
I am not smart enough to know if that's more cfm than a 850w 19" fan but it's a good one to add to the list.
 
CarterKraft said:
Understood, running a wire to the battery seems pointless.

Junctioning on the back if the alternator was the shortest path to power, basically 16" from the starter but my system is branched off a junction under the firewall, I could run it back to the firewall junction with out much trouble if that would help.
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Wherever the large cable coming forward first terminates is where I would put it. Think of every wire as a resistor/inductor, so it will effect where the current flows from at various frequencies.

Best to use the big chunk of lead vs the parts inside a brushless fan to filter your alternator output.
 
CarterKraft said:
Understood, running a wire to the battery seems pointless.

Junctioning on the back if the alternator was the shortest path to power, basically 16" from the starter but my system is branched off a junction under the firewall, I could run it back to the firewall junction with out much trouble if that would help.
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I am running 2/0 from the rear batteries to mid kill switch, then front stud then branching out to fan, starter, alternator, and winch, with various gauges.
I would be concerned with daisy chaining vs having individual branches. A bad connection to the main with daisy chained parts mean they will share spikes vs sending them back to the mainline individually.
 
EndlessMtnFab said:
Had a question since some of you guys have better access to info than others.

A friend of mine (via FB) is using this rather large 21 inch fan from a Benz Turbo Diesel. I am attaching 2 pictures for everyone to see the fitment and the model/part number. Is it possible to find any information about this fan (draw, cfm, etc). Just another interesting option if it pulls the air he says it does (massive amounts --- no numbers).

It's currently mounted to an LJ radiator.
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Looks like more shallow blades vs fewer deep blades. 600W is still 600W. It’s probably not spinning near as fast as the 850W Spal.
All those blades would probably restrict forced air flow if available vs a more open blade design. Which might not matter if it’s remote mounted or not high speed.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Looks like more shallow blades vs fewer deep blades. 600W is still 600W. It’s probably not spinning near as fast as the 850W Spal.
All those blades would probably restrict forced air flow if available vs a more open blade design. Which might not matter if it’s remote mounted or not high speed.
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Makes sense.


Just reporting back something I randomly happened to see that was posted in his LJ build/swap. If I found one for 50 bucks .... I'm not sure I'd turn it down. Even if it doesn't have the full potential of the big Spal units -- still better than a lot of the other fans we see on the market.

Still appreciate this thread (and many others like it).


Joe
 
HYDRODYNAMIC

Temp Sensor Location:
My understanding from talking with Spal is to put the sensor on the hot side loop which includes the driver front of head or passenger rear of head or water pump outlet or on the radiator before it does any cooling so you have a faster reacting system and so the reading temps are in a closer range. The factory ECM triggers the fans based off of what the heads read. I have the factory ECM sensor in the front driver head, Autometer sensor in the passenger rear head, and thinking of putting the Spal sensor in the hot 5/8 outlet heater port that is currently blocked. FYI, the 3/4" heater port is the low pressure side return which is connected to the surge tank.


Did you end up using that temp sensor location? Same as you, both my sensor locations on the block are being used for the computer and a gauge. I want to use the Spal 500 watt 16” fan, is there another type of sensor that will work?
 
How effective is an engine oil cooler with a good fan?
 
Tcdawg said:
HYDRODYNAMIC

Temp Sensor Location:
My understanding from talking with Spal is to put the sensor on the hot side loop which includes the driver front of head or passenger rear of head or water pump outlet or on the radiator before it does any cooling so you have a faster reacting system and so the reading temps are in a closer range. The factory ECM triggers the fans based off of what the heads read. I have the factory ECM sensor in the front driver head, Autometer sensor in the passenger rear head, and thinking of putting the Spal sensor in the hot 5/8 outlet heater port that is currently blocked. FYI, the 3/4" heater port is the low pressure side return which is connected to the surge tank.


Did you end up using that temp sensor location? Same as you, both my sensor locations on the block are being used for the computer and a gauge. I want to use the Spal 500 watt 16” fan, is there another type of sensor that will work?
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I am using the passenger rear head Spal sensor for both the guage and the FPM fan controller. The FPM can share with an autometer guage and sensor.
 
Bebop said:
How about you program the PWM curve in your ECU instead?
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Can the Gen IV 6.0(LY6) computer be programmed to give a PWM signal? Right now my ECU(E38) gives a regular ground signal to the fan relay and turns on a standard brushed fan. I guess this would be done in HP Tuners?
 
Tcdawg said:
Can the Gen IV 6.0(LY6) computer be programmed to give a PWM signal? Right now my ECU(E38) gives a regular ground signal to the fan relay and turns on a standard brushed fan. I guess this would be done in HP Tuners?
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Yes and yes.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
I am using the passenger rear head Spal sensor for both the guage and the FPM fan controller. The FPM can share with an autometer guage and sensor.
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That's pretty slick. Did you just tap into the wire from the sensor. Pretty sure my gauge sensor is just one wire.
 
Tcdawg said:
Great information, thank! I had no idea my ECU could be programmed for PWM. How good to you have to be in HP Tuners to make this happen?
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Good enough to do a segment swap
 
Tcdawg said:
Thanks. Seeing as how I don't know what a "segment swap" is...I am not good enough and will need to seek help.

Thanks!
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I suggest you get close to a competent tuner.
I have a couple of recommendations but they are in AL, 2 to 3h from you.
There has to be a good guy in Atl area.
 
Cheepin said:
How effective is an engine oil cooler with a good fan?
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I ran a very nice Derale dual fan cooler for my oil for a few years. I was never able to tell that it did much for me, however, I didn’t have an oil temp gauge. What I noticed is that I didn’t see my cooling system work any “better” when I was running the oil cooler fans. My cooling system worked the same whether the oil cooler fans were off or on.
 
Tcdawg said:
I ran a very nice Derale dual fan cooler for my oil for a few years. I was never able to tell that it did much for me, however, I didn’t have an oil temp gauge. What I noticed is that I didn’t see my cooling system work any “better” when I was running the oil cooler fans. My cooling system worked the same whether the oil cooler fans were off or on.
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Did it ever run hot? If it’s cycling the thermostat anyway, not gonna do anything you can see on the coolant temps.

Rock crawling also wouldn’t be huge unless you see a lot of RPM.

I saw about a 10-15* difference, but that’s on a wheel to wheel racer where sub 5000rpm was in the pits. Went from having the be careful how long I attacked/close I followed on a hot day, to rarely having to look at the gauges.
 
Rockwood said:
Did it ever run hot? If it’s cycling the thermostat anyway, not gonna do anything you can see on the coolant temps.

Rock crawling also wouldn’t be huge unless you see a lot of RPM.

I saw about a 10-15* difference, but that’s on a wheel to wheel racer where sub 5000rpm was in the pits. Went from having the be careful how long I attacked/close I followed on a hot day, to rarely having to look at the gauges.
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It didn’t have a thermostat, I ran it off a switch
 
Tcdawg said:
That's pretty slick. Did you just tap into the wire from the sensor. Pretty sure my gauge sensor is just one wire.
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Piggybacked right off the guage sensor stud and put the FPM right next to it. Mine is also one wire of the sensor.
I rather run the FPM and be able to retune and see status or force on anytime, anywhere rather than have to rely on a tuner and computer connection.
It is another part to fail but I am going to get a spare and 3M stick it right next to the two other ones. They are cheap enough and super small.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Piggybacked right off the guage sensor stud and put the FPM right next to it. Mine is also one wire of the sensor.
I rather run the FPM and be able to retune and see status or force on anytime, anywhere rather than have to rely on a tuner and computer connection.
It is another part to fail but I am going to get a spare and 3M stick it right next to the two other ones. They are cheap enough and super small.
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You have any interest converting it to a Deutsch pigtail. I don't like the dpades at all, I suspected I wouldn't and I was right...
I was just thinking I'd solder wires to the spades and then pot the wires to the FPM, leaving the buttons and dip switches in covered.
 
CarterKraft said:
You have any interest converting it to a Deutsch pigtail. I don't like the dpades at all, I suspected I wouldn't and I was right...
I was just thinking I'd solder wires to the spades and then pot the wires to the FPM, leaving the buttons and dip switches in covered.
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I ran locking tab spades on mine. Pretty solid.

Overall, it’s a stupid simple solution with very little fuss. At the price, buy 2 if you’re worried.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Piggybacked right off the guage sensor stud and put the FPM right next to it. Mine is also one wire of the sensor.
I rather run the FPM and be able to retune and see status or force on anytime, anywhere rather than have to rely on a tuner and computer connection.
It is another part to fail but I am going to get a spare and 3M stick it right next to the two other ones. They are cheap enough and super small.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'm leaning toward this method rather than getting into my ECU.
 
Rockwood said:
I ran locking tab spades on mine. Pretty solid.

Overall, it’s a stupid simple solution with very little fuss. At the price, buy 2 if you’re worried.
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For me it won't matter cause I don't off-road, but since the FPM is reading resistance to ground a coat of water across those terminals is going to play hell on the fan speed I bet.
 
This type of terminal has the little "dot" pressed into it to correspond with the hole or divot in the male tab, gives a "locking" effect.

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I guess I could just douche it all with dielectric grease.
A flying 12 pin DT receptecle potted in seems cooler...
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CarterKraft said:
I guess I could just douche it all with dielectric grease.
A flying 12 pin DT receptecle potted in seems cooler...
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This is the cooler way of doing it, pigtail, solder, and pot vs blades.
I keep all my electrical sealed so it doesn’t matter. The fuse holder and ring terminals are all open. That pigtail would only add bulk in my enclosure. I don’t have a problem with blades as long as they are good ones. Not all terminals are built alike. Some are junk and don’t hold tight.
 
CarterKraft said:
I guess I could just douche it all with dielectric grease.
A flying 12 pin DT receptecle potted in seems cooler...
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Click to expand...
The instructions say if you want to waterproof it, just program it and seal in the DIP switches.

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But yeah, dirty water schmoo might play hell with readings and resulting fan speed.
 
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