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It would be cool to figure out what that connector is, looks like a hearty unit. Just did a little surfing on Broses website, looks like they offer fans up to 1200w. But no real details beyond that.

Electric motors and drives - Products - Brose Fahrzeugteile

Here's one of those BMW Brose fan motors itself, not that it's helpful for much. Just trying to learn more about 'em

09-15 F01 F02 F04 BMW 750I 750LI N63 RADIATOR COOLING FAN MOTOR BROSE Y6763 | eBay

Edit - First time I've actually seen the chassis side power harness, at least we know what it looks like now:

Electric Fan Wiring Harness / Connector 61136987020
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I believe Kostal makes that connector and uses a weird terminal in it.

You can buy a chinese version here:


Unfortunately, looks like they use ultrasonic wire bonding instead of crimping. See: Ultrasonic joining technology systems | TELSONIC Ultrasonics The terminal looks identical. However, "Kostal LSK8" terminals might fit, and they're crimpable.

A good alternative might be Yazaki 58X connectors, which are weathersealed and use basic, common, inexpensive, FASTON 6.3mm and 9.5mm terminals
 
I believe Kostal makes that connector and uses a weird terminal in it.

You can buy a chinese version here:


Unfortunately, looks like they use ultrasonic wire bonding instead of crimping. See: Ultrasonic joining technology systems | TELSONIC Ultrasonics The terminal looks identical. However, "Kostal LSK8" terminals might fit, and they're crimpable.

A good alternative might be Yazaki 58X connectors, which are weathersealed and use basic, common, inexpensive, FASTON 6.3mm and 9.5mm terminals
Definitely sonic welded.

Thanks for the extra info though.
 
Trying to get my design locked in for the shroud I disassembled the brose fan to see about building a aluminum shroud for it

Should be easy, it has a 4 bolt symmetrical pattern mount.

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FWIW, I work the Rod Repair Shop at some of the NSRA shows, if we see 80 cars on a weekend show 40 are cooling fan related problems.
People will wire up their fans with chinesium relays and wire, use a 20A relay and expect it to work, LMAO.
I’m going to start taking pictures of some of the stuff I find.
Also the A/C companies like Vintage Air recommend a 70A circuit for electric cooling fans.
 
Can confirm the FPM works well. I forgot to cycle power while setting up so I made it more difficult but it controls the engine and trans right where I set them and it’s super easy to change temp range which changes the operating temp where it settles in. I ended up tapping into the same wire from the autometer sensor to guage in the control enclosure. 3M foam taped it to the side of the enclosure.

 
Can confirm the FPM works well. I forgot to cycle power while setting up so I made it more difficult but it controls the engine and trans right where I set them and it’s super easy to change temp range which changes the operating temp where it settles in. I ended up tapping into the same wire from the autometer sensor to guage in the control enclosure. 3M foam taped it to the side of the enclosure.

Did you do the setup "live" start engine wait until it got to "set temp" or did you use resistors or something to fake it?
 
Started engine like normal, no resistors
Press and hold green button
Wait for engine to hit 180
Press green button, low is set
Press and hold red button
Wait for engine to hit 200
Press red button, high is set
It then should blink green saying it is working and fans come on
If you are below low temp the led is green and signals off
I will probably bump the temps up a little as that was a rough number and first attempt at setting the temps
I have read that the LS should be around 195° to run best
I can barely hear the fans most of the time so they must be very low speed
 
Started engine like normal, no resistors
Press and hold green button
Wait for engine to hit 180
Press green button, low is set
Press and hold red button
Wait for engine to hit 200
Press red button, high is set
It then should blink green saying it is working and fans come on
If you are below low temp the led is green and signals off
I will probably bump the temps up a little as that was a rough number and first attempt at setting the temps
I have read that the LS should be around 195° to run best
I can barely hear the fans most of the time so they must be very low speed
I guess I am thinking about this on a system with inadequate cooling, like once the fan comes on it's not gonna shut off.
I hope I end up with extra cooling for this to work as designed.
 
With a variable fan you want your full speed to be up there in temp, 200 is way low in my opinion. You shouldn't need full speed unless you are beating it, so run that up around where you are comfortable to let the temps get as a maximum. Have the minimum speed around your thermostat temp, on crawlers maybe lower if you want some air movement always.

When you have to set the points on a controller that is measuring the values its probably better to use a potentiometer to fake it vs trying to get it to the actual temperature.
 
With a variable fan you want your full speed to be up there in temp, 200 is way low in my opinion. You shouldn't need full speed unless you are beating it, so run that up around where you are comfortable to let the temps get as a maximum. Have the minimum speed around your thermostat temp, on crawlers maybe lower if you want some air movement always.

When you have to set the points on a controller that is measuring the values its probably better to use a potentiometer to fake it vs trying to get it to the actual temperature.

Can we use my junk as a example?
Gen 1 400 ci SBC, steel heads

165* thermostat (I think) will change it to different temp if needed.

Max temp of 200*?
So I set my fan min to ?
Max to ?

But I think with the FPM module there is some extra settings for maximum max which sort of confused me.
 
Can we use my junk as a example?
Gen 1 400 ci SBC, steel heads

165* thermostat (I think) will change it to different temp if needed.

Max temp of 200*?
So I set my fan min to ?
Max to ?

But I think with the FPM module there is some extra settings for maximum max which sort of confused me.
SBC I'd put a 180 thermostat, fans from 180 to 220
 
The 180°/200° was on the low side just to get it going and see how it would program and react.
Easy to heat up and get cool again while testing.
I think the thermostat is a 185°, so I will bump the low to around 190° and high to 225° as that is a specific hash mark on the gauge to confirm function.
The low speed is so low it can’t be heard but it cycles off and on at idle at 180°
 
There was a bit of discussion earlier about how the Brose fans are open to the elements. Just discovered the 2016 ZL1 Camaro fan (and probably other years) is a sealed brushless SPAL. Check out the first minute or two of this vid (and more if you want). According to this vid it sounds like it's somewhere in the 900-1000 watt range

 
There was a bit of discussion earlier about how the Brose fans are open to the elements. Just discovered the 2016 ZL1 Camaro fan (and probably other years) is a sealed brushless SPAL. Check out the first minute or two of this vid (and more if you want). According to this vid it sounds like it's somewhere in the 900-1000 watt range


Just watched that too,

Am I crazy too think 10ga wire at the lengths he mentioned is crazy small for the load?
 
Just watched that too,

Am I crazy too think 10ga wire at the lengths he mentioned is crazy small for the load?

Yeah there's no way I would consider 10 gauge for something that can pull 80 amps. Granted his particular setup is running 16v instead of 12 so he said he saw up to ~65 amps on his setup, but even then 10ga seems pretty damn undersized imo. He said he would use 10ga if he made harnesses for people as well so he'd probably use it on 12v systems too
 
Mine got 4ga :homer: I didn't bother to check the voltage drop charts just grabbed the smallest/big wire out of the tote, it might be excessive...

Powering it through a 75a Bosch relay and the widget man FPM. Hope it works 🤞
 
Haha I ran 4ga to my fan as well. It was too big for the connector seals and terminals, but I didn't wanna wait to get some 6ga or similar. I ran mine straight to the battery (with a circuit breaker) always hot like they did in factory configuration, skipping the relay all together. No regrets yet
 
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There was a bit of discussion earlier about how the Brose fans are open to the elements. Just discovered the 2016 ZL1 Camaro fan (and probably other years) is a sealed brushless SPAL. Check out the first minute or two of this vid (and more if you want). According to this vid it sounds like it's somewhere in the 900-1000 watt range


800 watt.
That's what's on my rig right now.

Haha I ran 4ga to my fan as well. It was too big for the connector seals and terminals, but I didn't wanna wait to get some 6ga or similar.
What's the point of going to a sealed connector if you just use undersized crimps and blown out seals ?
 
Haha I ran 4ga to my fan as well. It was too big for the connector seals and terminals, but I didn't wanna wait to get some 6ga or similar. I ran mine straight to the battery always hot like they did in factory configuration, skipping the relay all together. No regrets yet

I ran it to the relay which is 12" away and then to the + post on the alternator. The ground goes to the back of the alternator as well so its a few bolt connections and some zip ties and I can have it out. When I finally remember where I hid that Anderson connector I'm gonna throw it in the creek
:flipoff2:


800 watt.
That's what's on my rig right now.


What's the point of going to a sealed connector if you just use undersized crimps and blown out seals ?
So its easy to swap if it dies :grinpimp:
 
800 watt.
That's what's on my rig right now.


What's the point of going to a sealed connector if you just use undersized crimps and blown out seals ?

Nice, I couldn’t recall if that specific fan was the one previously discussed but I see the additional value in it now.

I definitely acknowledge it’s an imperfect solution. I did end up soldering after crimping just for the extra assurance, but I know that is imperfect too. Then I was thinking about RTV in place of the physical seals I couldn’t use, but I haven’t done that yet so yeah I have no room to talk.

I ran it to the relay which is 12" away and then to the + post on the alternator. The ground goes to the back of the alternator as well so its a few bolt connections and some zip ties and I can have it out. When I finally remember where I hid that Anderson connector I'm gonna throw it in the creek
:flipoff2:



So its easy to swap if it dies :grinpimp:

Very nice. The connector is right where ya left it :lmao:
 
There was a bit of discussion earlier about how the Brose fans are open to the elements. Just discovered the 2016 ZL1 Camaro fan (and probably other years) is a sealed brushless SPAL. Check out the first minute or two of this vid (and more if you want). According to this vid it sounds like it's somewhere in the 900-1000 watt range



ACDelco GM Original Equipment 15-81927 Engine Cooling Fan Amazon.com
 
I ran it to the relay which is 12" away and then to the + post on the alternator. The ground goes to the back of the alternator as well so its a few bolt connections and some zip ties and I can have it out.

100% Do not run the power directly to the alternator for any fan. You want to be as close electrically to the battery as you can, it is providing the filtration. In practice this is going to be a compromise based on battery location.
 
100% Do not run the power directly to the alternator for any fan. You want to be as close electrically to the battery as you can, it is providing the filtration. In practice this is going to be a compromise based on battery location.

Yeah so my battery is 13' feet away? There is a 1/0 cable from the battery to the starter and then a 2 ga cable to the alternator.
We're gonna see how it goes...
 
Yeah so my battery is 13' feet away? There is a 1/0 cable from the battery to the starter and then a 2 ga cable to the alternator.
We're gonna see how it goes...
You're gonna be fine.
 
Don’t forget to run a maxi fuse and not a circuit breaker.
I had put in one 150A circuit breaker for both fans to protect the infeed wire. It would pop randomly even though the load was probably half that. Spal said that the there is a capacitor in the fans. Disconnecting batteries with kill switches could possibly spike the breaker.
Switched to maxi fuses per fan and have had no issues.
 
Don’t forget to run a maxi fuse and not a circuit breaker.
I had put in one 150A circuit breaker for both fans to protect the infeed wire. It would pop randomly even though the load was probably half that. Spal said that the there is a capacitor in the fans. Disconnecting batteries with kill switches could possibly spike the breaker.
Switched to maxi fuses per fan and have had no issues.
I have the branch fused at the 1/0 junction with those stud mount MRBF fuses. I might have to up size it but my plan was the current should be direct from the alternator, not the battery, that might be a bad design...
 
Yeah so my battery is 13' feet away? There is a 1/0 cable from the battery to the starter and then a 2 ga cable to the alternator.
We're gonna see how it goes...

Yup, so your feed should be from the starter stud junction. Which is of course the compromise vs the battery. Direct from the battery with smaller wire would be bad from a voltage drop standpoint.


You're gonna be fine.

Its fine until its not. No sense to do it wrong on purpose.
 
Yup, so your feed should be from the starter stud junction. Which is of course the compromise vs the battery. Direct from the battery with smaller wire would be bad from a voltage drop standpoint.




Its fine until its not. No sense to do it wrong on purpose.
Understood, running a wire to the battery seems pointless.

Junctioning on the back if the alternator was the shortest path to power, basically 16" from the starter but my system is branched off a junction under the firewall, I could run it back to the firewall junction with out much trouble if that would help.
 
Had a question since some of you guys have better access to info than others.

A friend of mine (via FB) is using this rather large 21 inch fan from a Benz Turbo Diesel. I am attaching 2 pictures for everyone to see the fitment and the model/part number. Is it possible to find any information about this fan (draw, cfm, etc). Just another interesting option if it pulls the air he says it does (massive amounts --- no numbers).

It's currently mounted to an LJ radiator.
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