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This picture has givin me an idea. I’m not inclined to change the shape of my openings on the outside, but I wouldn’t mind putting some louvers on the inside like above. Do you have a pic of that folded down? Is it just a screen?

pull the screen off and see what happens on yours.

think pool skimmer
 
those slot to me dont seem to be big enough for rad stuff and if they have wire mesh they are really small.

You are looking at the AC condenser side. The other side looks similar, but more slots. The wire mesh is big enough to stick my finger in.

Edit, I can’t stick my finger in, but they are about .300“ openings.

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pull the screen off and see what happens on yours.

think pool skimmer

I don’t get the analogy. My pool work fine if the skimmer is in or out. I think you guys can’t see the “screen”. I wouldn’t call it that. Its so open, it doesn’t keep all leaves out.
 
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You are looking at the AC condenser side. The other side looks similar, but more slots. The wire mesh is big enough to stick my finger in.

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Tape 4" pieces of yarn all around those slots and take a drive. Video it. That's the only way to see what the air is doing at the slots when your moving.

Is it supposed to suck in cold air or blow out hot air through the slots?
 
Tape 4" pieces of yarn all around those slots and take a drive. Video it. That's the only way to see what the air is doing at the slots when your moving.

Is it supposed to suck in cold air or blow out hot air through the slots?

Cool idea, but kind of difficult for me to do by my self. It blows out hot air on the rad side.
 
Where does the col air come from?
 
Cool idea, but kind of difficult for me to do by my self. It blows out hot air on the rad side.

Pick up one of the cheap video recorders posted above. You're not exactly dealing with a very aerodynamic shape. It could be blowing hot air out a 0mph, sucking air in at 20mph, blowing out at 30mph and so on. There's only one simple way to see what going on. Other way is to mount a bunch of pilot tubes and fancy gear.

Yarn is cheap:grinpimp:
 
Pick up one of the cheap video recorders posted above. You're not exactly dealing with a very aerodynamic shape. It could be blowing hot air out a 0mph, sucking air in at 20mph, blowing out at 30mph and so on. There's only one simple way to see what going on. Other way is to mount a bunch of pilot tubes and fancy gear.

Yarn is cheap:grinpimp:
I use basic white paper shop towels and duct tape for radiator troubleshooting on machines.
Sometimes ANY info is better than NO info.
 
Pick up one of the cheap video recorders posted above. You're not exactly dealing with a very aerodynamic shape. It could be blowing hot air out a 0mph, sucking air in at 20mph, blowing out at 30mph and so on. There's only one simple way to see what going on. Other way is to mount a bunch of pilot tubes and fancy gear.

Yarn is cheap:grinpimp:

I can take video with my iPad. I use to be able to post it. But I guess it was too easy, so they changed things and I can’t figure out how to post it now.

pull the whole panel off, im curious on how it fairs that way

Yes, both the mesh removal and the panel removal is relatively easy test. The issue with this stuff is the temp gage is mounted in the engine head and you don’t see much change. Now that it’s not really hot out, I probably can’t tell anything.

I use basic white paper shop towels and duct tape for radiator troubleshooting on machines.
Sometimes ANY info is better than NO info.

Yes, you are right. I’m very glad I got that temp box on the water outlet of the IC. I would not have known about the flow reversal. I just wish the remote reader would work. I could do so much more if I didn’t need someone to ride in the bed to read it.
 
Yes, both the mesh removal and the panel removal is relatively easy test. The issue with this stuff is the temp gage is mounted in the engine head and you don’t see much change. Now that it’s not really hot out, I probably can’t tell anything.

so if the temp gauge in the head isnt showing high temp, why are we having this discussion?
 
so if the temp gauge in the head isnt showing high temp, why are we having this discussion?
His main issue is EGT's. The intercooler uses engine coolant. So cooling is kind of important.
 
The mesh could be hurting. Buddy range wire shelving mesh in his racer to keep rocks out of the cab. About 2x1/2 openings. Came in lap 2 kicking it off as everything was overheating. Cab mounted coolers behind drivers. Temps ran good after that.

I second the removing the cover and or the other testing ideas.

How about putting it on a treadmill. :flipoff2: the you can watch it.
 
His main issue is EGT's. The intercooler uses engine coolant. So cooling is kind of important.

Yet other than the comment egt’s look coal rolling territory nobody has questioned the fueling.
 
Yet other than the comment egt’s look coal rolling territory nobody has questioned the fueling.
He isn't rolling coal so timing or tiny AR housing. But I agree, something ain't right.
 
Yea, there’s no coal rolling. If floor the pedal in second or third, it might give you a hint of smoke when I’m looking right at the exhaust outlet. Ten feet behind the truck, you can’t see any smoke. When I watch those videos of diesel drag racing solid black smoke that lingers for a minute, I’m thinking they must be running 2000 EGT.
 
Purposelessly tape over a % of the radiator to influence heat rise?
 
If your talking about the duct on the IC rad, it gets ram air from forward of the engine. So the only heat would be from the cars in front.
It looked like there is almost no room in front of the rad.
 
It looked like there is almost no room in front of the rad.

The rectangle duel fan IC rad is mounted vertical on the T-case crossmember. You can see the bottom fan here.

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The shroud on the front of this rad is fed by a 4 1/2” duct.

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That duct runs along the skid plate and opens forward of the engine, just above and behind the front axle.

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No part of my engine is forward of the front axle.

This pic is from the front with no duct attached yet, but you can see the opening for the ram air.

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Ok.

Just so you know, I use that same cooler for a power steering cooler. That is grossly undersized for an IC rad IMO.

Based on my experience, the dimensions you need to be looking at for an independent IC radiator should be in the 20x15 or something similar. Also, the bigger/more flow the pump, the better IC cooling works.
 
2 questions since im not going to try and dig for information
  • whats the temp differential youre looking to drop?
  • why dont you have a giant air air ic in the nose of this thing?
  • have you considered an water to water heat exchanger?
 
The truck always runs cool if I’m going slow and if I’m going fast and it gets hot, it will cool down quickly if I slow down. This leads me to believe there are aero dynamic issues with the side mounted rad.

It has never over heated. i Just find it strange that it is very cool at any speed below 50. It could be the slippery shape gets less so at 60 or theres an air flow issue.

That truck pictured doesn’t look too bad. That indeed, might be the answer.
Pardon my confusion, LOL. To me, hot is overheating.

The mesh is killing airflow, especially if you're expecting fans to blow through it. It's not just the opening size, even if it's only 10% of the surface area, you're asking 100 parts of air to squeeze through 90 parts of area. It's going to extract a price because its lazy. Some of the air has to turn to go around it, and it's going to push on its neighbors, and so on. Turbulence will happen.

Is the mesh to protect the heat exchangers from damage as people climb up?

Also: that shroud near the transfer case: is it open on the bottom?
 
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Pardon my confusion, LOL. To me, hot is overheating.

The mesh is killing airflow, especially if you're expecting fans to blow through it. Is it to protect the heat exchangers from damage as people climb up?

Also: that shroud near the transfer case: is it open on the bottom?

it has come out that he is worried about the intercooler temps, not the engine temps. based on the last few posts his IC cooler is dreadfully undersized.
 
Ah I don't think your getting any air through that duct either. Air usually flows down through the engine bay to the bottom of the rig, like under the skid plate. Seems like your flow route is a higher pressure zone where that duct is and minimal air flow is going through there.

And Id says 4.5 is way to small.
 
it has come out that he is worried about the intercooler temps, not the engine temps. based on the last few posts his IC cooler is dreadfully undersized.
The intercooler is "cooled" by the radiator? LOL. Compressor outlet temps are usually 40-100* above ambient (depending on load/boost)... That means unless it's 100* out, it's getting heated until you completely wood it. At 200*F coolant temps, the air exiting the radiator is ~180*F on a good radiator setup.

Even when outlet temps are maxed (250*?), deltaP is so low, I doubt IATs are dropping much... Better off just not running it.

Why not add a water to air exchanger for the intercooler loop?
 
Ah I don't think your getting any air through that duct either. Air usually flows down through the engine bay to the bottom of the rig, like under the skid plate. Seems like your flow route is a higher pressure zone where that duct is and minimal air flow is going through there.

And Id says 4.5 is way to small.
That exit is probably a mess based on its location. Some of it low pressure (right behind the fender), some of it sorta laminar where it reattaches, some of it high pressure (as it nears the rear fender). Could be a swirling mess in there where he's just recycling air...

And yeah, who the fuck knows what's happening underneath. Bottom feeders usually only work if the inlet is at the front of the vehicle. Even then, they went out of style because air near the asphalt is hot.

Since this is cooling fan discussion: what fans are on there?
 
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