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Cheap bastard TinyHome design, need some direction

TiTRD said:
"Ladders" on gable ends.

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Okay, thank you.

Yeah thats what I was planning on doing for the ends. It'd be real easy to go to 2' length there instead of the 1' I was planning on.


Alright, here's a better chance for people to tell me what I'm doing wrong in advance :laughing:

I'm going to use 1x4 as rafter straps, doubled top and bottom, then 24" on center in between.

2' on the gables will give me a 12x28' roof, going to use corrugated galvanized for it with some flashing along the top and bottom.

For the siding, beings it not on a prepped and level space, going to get probably 8" flashing to run as the bottom row and to account for whatever slope, then start siding covering that. Going to see about using 1x8 tongue and groove as it's cheaper than the lap siding and about the same price as 3/8" t1-11 sheets. It'll also span the 8' posts and 10' end. Figure on starting with the bottom row and working my way up.

Going to pick up some 1x6 to use as corner trim.

Probably no windows and likely no man door at this point.

Still not entirely decided for the end door, it's about 9'x9' opening. Probably going to end up getting several hinges and making something that opens as a 2 piece, side hung

Other than paint/stain that's pretty well it. Would like yo paint the roof if I get time and stain all the siding and trim. Not sure if my small compressor will function the siphon paint gun I brought, otherwise it will just be brushed on.
 
fuck he corrugated roof, go with a R or U type panel. i would recommend 2x4s for the perlings. to close price wise to use the 1x stuff.
 
Generally if you go with a 2 ft gable end you want to tie back to the rafter behind the gable and support it on the gable. Don't forget your blocking between your rafters.

Roof I would just go with what the metal sales book suggests for flashing. Get the big screws (I think they are #10 with a 5/16 head) and don't overdrive them. If the washer is smashed they will rot out and leak. I like pre drilling my panels with an 1/8 bit but that is up to you.

Below the siding your going to need something to support your flashing. You can go a couple of ways.

On my outbuilding when I resided the southwest side I ran a ground contact rated 2x8 with 1.5 z flashing over the top. I don't like running the bottom of the siding right to the horizontal face of the z flashing to make it less like to wick water. If you ever want to pour a floor this also acts as your mud plate.
PXL_20240625_141207482.jpg


I would go straight to something like LP smart side for siding and a manufactured trim. Paint it and don't think about it again for 10 years. In 10 years either repaint or run cheap tin over it.

Pre frame your man door rough opening (38x82) so whenever you decide you want the door you just cut out the siding and drop it in. I would also suggest doing this with a window because not having one is inconvenient.

For coatings rent an airless paint sprayer or just use a heavy nap roller. Since you don't have anything to mask it will take you longer to clean the sprayer than it will to paint.
 
speed bump said:
Generally if you go with a 2 ft gable end you want to tie back to the rafter behind the gable and support it on the gable. Don't forget your blocking between your rafters.

Roof I would just go with what the metal sales book suggests for flashing. Get the big screws (I think they are #10 with a 5/16 head) and don't overdrive them. If the washer is smashed they will rot out and leak. I like pre drilling my panels with an 1/8 bit but that is up to you.

Below the siding your going to need something to support your flashing. You can go a couple of ways.

On my outbuilding when I resided the southwest side I ran a ground contact rated 2x8 with 1.5 z flashing over the top. I don't like running the bottom of the siding right to the horizontal face of the z flashing to make it less like to wick water. If you ever want to pour a floor this also acts as your mud plate.
PXL_20240625_141207482.jpg


I would go straight to something like LP smart side for siding and a manufactured trim. Paint it and don't think about it again for 10 years. In 10 years either repaint or run cheap tin over it.

Pre frame your man door rough opening (38x82) so whenever you decide you want the door you just cut out the siding and drop it in. I would also suggest doing this with a window because not having one is inconvenient.

For coatings rent an airless paint sprayer or just use a heavy nap roller. Since you don't have anything to mask it will take you longer to clean the sprayer than it will to paint.
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Thank you :beer: makes sense
 
Well, LP smart siding is available in the 0.35" thick for 16" o.c. framing. The 1/2" stuff is 10 weeks out and large minimum order.

Which sort of puts me back to the 1" t&g for the siding, even if it moves its probably got better odds to span the 8' gaps.

Otherwise, I'd have to run 1x4 stringers between the posts for the siding to mount to, which I'd like to avoid if possible
 
Provience said:
And long lead for any metal roofing other than corrugated, ordering corrugated presently.
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Look around you should be able to get all of them in a week or less from any exterior supply house.
 
Provience said:
Well, LP smart siding is available in the 0.35" thick for 16" o.c. framing. The 1/2" stuff is 10 weeks out and large minimum order.

Which sort of puts me back to the 1" t&g for the siding, even if it moves its probably got better odds to span the 8' gaps.

Otherwise, I'd have to run 1x4 stringers between the posts for the siding to mount to, which I'd like to avoid if possible
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Run the purlins on the outside with 2x4s you can go 24" OC and then run the smart side. 1" t&g on 8 ft centers would "interesting", it may work but it may warp and open up horribly.

What's the town closest to you? Around here the metal sales truck comes through once or twice a week so for non exotic stuff it's less than a week. A decent lumber will typically stock enough white stuff to do your building as well.
 
Provience said:
Think it'd be worth going to a different profile and driving an hour and a half or two? The drive would negate any cost savings.
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In my opinion things aren’t worth doing twice so for a little bit more it’s worth it to get a better product. I would do standing seam on that and never worry about it for the rest of my life. For a 24x24 you are looking at 1k roughly for materials, a few hundred to not worry about it is money well spent imo.

The bigger suppliers here just have rolls of tin and they will make whatever size you want within a day or two.
 
speed bump said:
Run the purlins on the outside with 2x4s you can go 24" OC and then run the smart side. 1" t&g on 8 ft centers would "interesting", it may work but it may warp and open up horribly.

What's the town closest to you? Around here the metal sales truck comes through once or twice a week so for non exotic stuff it's less than a week. A decent lumber will typically stock enough white stuff to do your building as well.
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Montpelier is where I'm getting all my stuff. Logan at 1.5 hours or Pocatello at 2 would have anything else I need. Metal delivery is once a week, but also 2.5 weeks for anything other than corrugated. Cut and color to whatever you want.

Yeahbi figure the 1x8 t&h has the best chance, but do expect it to move around some. If it'll make 10 years before being useless, I'd be happy
 
Pocahontas said:
In my opinion things aren’t worth doing twice so for a little bit more it’s worth it to get a better product. I would do standing seam on that and never worry about it for the rest of my life. For a 24x24 you are looking at 1k roughly for materials, a few hundred to not worry about it is money well spent imo.

The bigger suppliers here just have rolls of tin and they will make whatever size you want within a day or two.
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"For a little bit more" all over the place doubles the total cost :laughing: this is my first shed, so I'm learning stuff and things.
 
Provience said:
"For a little bit more" all over the place doubles the total cost :laughing: this is my first shed, so I'm learning stuff and things.
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Well. This just answered a question I typed out then deleted. :laughing:

I thought you were older(ish) like at least 40.

How'd you get this far along and never built a little building?

Edit: oh, forgot to say, good for you for doing it and learning. :beer:
 
Provience said:
"For a little bit more" all over the place doubles the total cost :laughing: this is my first shed, so I'm learning stuff and things.
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True but there’s places to skimp and places not too. A leak can easily cause a hell of a lot of damage.

Things to skimp on are things relatively easy replaced, cabinets, fixtures, trim, flooring ect. Structural is not a place that it makes sense, especially if you are going to keep it long term.

I would rather get it water tight and live with plywood or concrete floors without drywall than do it cheaper and have problems that force me to fix it later.
 
arse_sidewards said:
That's what everyone trying to drive up the price says. :lmao:
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I consider pretty frugal but I’ve seen firsthand how much damage water can do quickly. From a roof, pipe or the ground. Any way you minimize it especially for not much cost in the big scheme is worth it.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
Well. This just answered a question I typed out then deleted. :laughing:

I thought you were older(ish) like at least 40.

How'd you get this far along and never built a little building?

Edit: oh, forgot to say, good for you for doing it and learning. :beer:
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Yeah I'm 40 ish. When I was probably 10 or 12, I managed to sort of build a platform and a single wall, couldn't figure out how to stand up the wall :laughing:

Other than that, nope. Lots of flooring, lots of concrete, some miniscule small wall things. This is my first from scratch wood thing with all the stuff.

From here, more things and probably bigger things. Ultimately I want to do 90%+ of my own house, so figure learn stuff on smaller things of less consequences.

I learned the other day that electric framing nail guns also run on propane :laughing:
 
Pocahontas said:
I consider pretty frugal but I’ve seen firsthand how much damage water can do quickly. From a roof, pipe or the ground. Any way you minimize it especially for not much cost in the big scheme is worth it.
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In a sense, the naturally sloping floor should aide significantly with allowing the water through, and the very poor ground connection shouldn't retain any.

I don't particularly want the roof to leak, it's just not the end of the world if it does
 
Pocahontas said:
In my opinion things aren’t worth doing twice so for a little bit more it’s worth it to get a better product. I would do standing seam on that and never worry about it for the rest of my life. For a 24x24 you are looking at 1k roughly for materials, a few hundred to not worry about it is money well spent imo.

The bigger suppliers here just have rolls of tin and they will make whatever size you want within a day or two.
Click to expand...

Standing seam requires a fair amount of skill, time, and tools over an r-panel or corrugated roof. For his climate if he doesn't over drive the screws it will last 30 years leak free. I would have to look but if I remember correctly standing seam doesn't give you the load carrying capacity on a purlin roof as well. Where he is the options are gonna be wait (2.5 weeks is surprising since we just got stuff in a week) or travel.

Definitely getting to learn the fun part of rural living where almost nothing is readily available. You gotta plan out your materials and if you miss you pay extra. You might also check Afton or soda springs and see if the farm store or lumber yard in either place stocks more stuff.
 
speed bump said:
Standing seam requires a fair amount of skill, time, and tools over an r-panel or corrugated roof. For his climate if he doesn't over drive the screws it will last 30 years leak free.
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Didn’t take that into consideration, we are supposed to get 1-1.5 inches tomorrow so I’m used to it pouring weekly not being dry for months on end.
 
Pocahontas said:
Didn’t take that into consideration, we are supposed to get 1-1.5 inches tomorrow so I’m used to it pouring weekly not being dry for months on end.
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From what I can recall, the criteria for a desert is 14" water equivalent per year, I'm am about 13 or 13.5, which includes the water content of the 3-5' of snow pack.

It rained today, I wouldntve noticed if it hadn't been while I was fixing the window on the pickup. Wasn't enough to knock the dust down
 
Pocahontas said:
Didn’t take that into consideration, we are supposed to get 1-1.5 inches tomorrow so I’m used to it pouring weekly not being dry for months on end.
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Yeah, he is basically in the dessert. There aren't very many places on the western slope of the Rockies that stay green all summer.
 
I very much enjoyed and learned lots from watching Larry Haun "The Very Efficient Carpenter" and Scott Wadsworth "Essential Craftsman" on youtube.

You pick up all kinds of fast, easy ways to do things. For example Scott swinging around a ridiculous 8 foot level while building walls to make sure the top plate and sole plate on a wall were plumb. The trick about it is it doesn't matter if your studs are wonky, you NEED those two pieces to be plumb (directly on top of each other). You can deal with the wonky studs later with a hand planer to straighten them.



Very Efficient Carpenter playlist:



Essential Craftsman on youtube:

www.youtube.com

Essential Craftsman

Informational videos related to blacksmithing, general construction, safety & productivity, and various other trades. The videos feature Scott Wadsworth, and cover a wide array of topics, tools, history, opinions, and lessons. The purpose of the channel is to showcase the knowledge that is...
www.youtube.com www.youtube.com
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
I very much enjoyed and learned lots from watching Larry Haun "The Very Efficient Carpenter" and Scott Wadsworth "Essential Craftsman" on youtube.

You pick up all kinds of fast, easy ways to do things. For example Scott swinging around a ridiculous 8 foot level while building walls to make sure the top plate and sole plate on a wall were plumb. The trick about it is it doesn't matter if your studs are wonky, you NEED those two pieces to be plumb (directly on top of each other). You can deal with the wonky studs later with a hand planer to straighten them.



Very Efficient Carpenter playlist:



Essential Craftsman on youtube:

www.youtube.com

Essential Craftsman

Informational videos related to blacksmithing, general construction, safety & productivity, and various other trades. The videos feature Scott Wadsworth, and cover a wide array of topics, tools, history, opinions, and lessons. The purpose of the channel is to showcase the knowledge that is...
www.youtube.com www.youtube.com
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I am a huge fan of both and also have Larry's book. Good suggestions!

I also have volunteered significant time to Habitat for Humanity, which has taught me a decent amount about building. Would recommend!
 
I'll have to check out some YouTube videos at some point. Thanks for the suggestion. :beer: I've been leveling and squaring things as I go, and checking/adjusting along the way. Sure, it may not last as such, but the tops of all the rafters are currently level and square :laughing: the bottoms, less so, but I care less about the bottoms than the tops.

I'm also pretty well convinced that a pole/post style building is only worth it if it is just to support a roof. Anything with siding/doors/windows would be better and cheaper to just do regular stick framing.

So I think I'll try that next time around and see if I can learn more about squaring or straightening or whatever the term is for using rough cut lumber and making it not so rough and much more consistent.

Anything big would be well worth it to buy wood in advance and let it sit/dry in a stack for a month or whatever period of time as well prior to use
 
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Eaves installed, still need to cut the things to match.

Now I know, need to have a way to flatten the rafters better :rasta: probably measure and cut each one on steady of using a template. Or cut each piece to be the same size first and then make a template :laughing:
 
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Today's progress, got almost halfway of roof in place before the wind started really picking up.

Showed the kid how to build a limitless sheet metal brake with 2x4's so that we could hand form our own edge flashing.

Screws and lines are not for the OCD at heart :laughing:
 
Looks like you added blocking that sort of looks like a gable end ladder, but it doesn't extend to the last rafter?

Is the last rafter just supported by the top and bottom fascia board?

How much snow will that thing see?

Edit: I found it, you said 3-5 feet of snow accumulation? You should probably better support those end pieces. Sometimes the snow "curls" at ends of buildings and gets pretty heavy. Also, everything sags with time.

If you look at how buildings are made, the framing pieces are always ALWAYS stacked in a way that does not rely on the fasteners (screws/nails) to hold any load (with a few exceptions such as joist hangers).

With almost all framing, if you could magically make all the fasteners disappear, the house would still stand. This is done because wood is so shitty, it gets mushy or dries and splits, etc. But if it's stacked and all the ends are captive, then that doesn't matter so much.

Provience said:
From what I can recall, the criteria for a desert is 14" water equivalent per year, I'm am about 13 or 13.5, which includes the water content of the 3-5' of snow pack.

It rained today, I wouldntve noticed if it hadn't been while I was fixing the window on the pickup. Wasn't enough to knock the dust down
Click to expand...
 
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