Carnage share thread

Clb said:
Cab swap not an option?
My big tire taco sustained a soft flop and looked worse than it was.
It came to me with 1/2 doors on it, when I remounted the oem doors,
I was able to massage the a piller/door to not whistle .Wasn't able to seal out all the rain tho.
Finding a standard ( not extra) 2nd gen cab was a bitch out here...
Good luck with it man.
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1st gen Tacomas are kind of hard to find. If I'm cab swapping, I'm building a whole new truck as the frame is failing under this thing now (thank you Toyota and not knowing how to rust proof frames).
 
They're regularly pretty cheap in roadworthy condition around here. The idiots who bought the bull**** about the replacement frames being better are unloading them for around $1-2k in "trash frame" or "blown engine and rusty enough that it's not worth replacing" condition.

Screenshot 2025-05-15 at 11.33.04 AM.png


Obviously that's $2k more than fixing it your damn self. IDK what the cabs go for but I assume the people doing the part outs are charging $1500 since those idiots seem to think it's reasonable to charge more than a junkyard for worse labor and no warranty.

You're probably just gonna flop it again so I'd just fix what you got.


Edit: To be clear, the cabs are roadworthy. The complete vehicles are ****.
 
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arse_sidewards said:
They're regularly pretty cheap in roadworthy condition around here. The idiots who bought the bull**** about the replacement frames being better are unloading them for around $2k in "trash frame" or "blown engine and rusty enough that it's not worth replacing" condition.

Obviously that's $2k more than fixing it your damn self. IDK what the cabs go for but I assume the people doing the part outs are charging $1500 since those idiots seem to think it's reasonable to charge more than a junkyard for worse labor and no warranty.
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Not buying some rusty POS from mass, to replace my rusty POS from il and deal with whatever NC DMV ****ery that comes with it. And you are spot on with used Tacoma part prices.
 
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My 98 was a Cali truck so no rust, but I get your problem with time , effort and of course reward.
We usually destroy one way before it rots out here....
 
Fwiw, I remember talking to drewP from pbb about his custom frame 4runner.

He said the biggest mistake was using 2x3 for the section upder the cab and trying do a flat belly. Just no room to mount anything, the you cut the floor out and mounting seats is hard.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Fwiw, I remember talking to drewP from pbb about his custom frame 4runner.

He said the biggest mistake was using 2x3 for the section upder the cab and trying do a flat belly. Just no room to mount anything, the you cut the floor out and mounting seats is hard.
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I did that to that samurai buggy I built. I should have just built it out of tube and then did the sub structure under it.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Fwiw, I remember talking to drewP from pbb about his custom frame 4runner.

He said the biggest mistake was using 2x3 for the section upder the cab and trying do a flat belly. Just no room to mount anything, the you cut the floor out and mounting seats is hard.
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If I ever build a full custom frame for it, I would link it and use a goatbilt type subframe as the starting point. I believe Cutler did that with the manche. There's a local hot rod classis place that will bend up square tube to your specs for a frame, but it's halfway to the price of a buggy in a box kit.

Reality is ill probably be patching rust holes and plateing **** until the truck breaks in half (almost did it once), or just swap everything over to a new truck in the future.
 
JR4X said:
I did that to that samurai buggy I built. I should have just built it out of tube and then did the sub structure under it.
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Toyotas are especially bad with the cab floor about 1/2" above the frame, and the seats mounted directly to that.

Going through it right now mounting an atlas in mine. Best I can do is 2" below the frame without moving the pass seat up too high. Might even drop it down. But ya, going to build a sub frame that's 2-2.5" below the stock frame.

Slander said:
If I ever build a full custom frame for it, I would link it and use a goatbilt type subframe as the starting point. I believe Cutler did that with the manche. There's a local hot rod classis place that will bend up square tube to your specs for a frame, but it's halfway to the price of a buggy in a box kit.
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That would be sweet. I used a motobilt YJ sub frame/skid deal on my father in laws YJ and it was awesome.

You should just do the goat built LJ chassis and put all the Toyota stuff in it. Could even use an FJ40 grille and 90% of people wouldn't know the difference :laughing:

Slander said:
Reality is ill probably be patching rust holes and plateing **** until the truck breaks in half (almost did it once), or just swap everything over to a new truck in the future.
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Ya, bench building is always more fun though.
 
Post GER trip inspection. 3rz passenger side engine mount plate is almost completely ripped apart.
 

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91samurai said:
Uwharrie gets a lot of people because “it’s just Uwharrie it’s not hard” lol
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I ultimately blame the people at the inspection place when I took it in the Monday before the trip. They asked me how many times I have rolled it :lmao:

Spent an hour ****ing around with it this morning and got the door opening square and the door now shuts without me having to hang off it. Going to keep my eye out for a new door, luckily 99% of 1st gen Tacomas came in white :laughing:
 
KacksterK5 said:
Vibrations will eventually kill everything. impressive break though. Weld and gusset
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Yeah, vibrations were horrible in it too. Between the lack of balance shafts and poly mounts everything had these strange harmonics. Got some rubber leaf spring bushings to replace the Barnes urethane and replacement plate will be upgraded from 3/16 to 1/4. Haven't found any other damage/cracks so I'm hoping we caught it in time.
 
94toytruck said:
Yeah, vibrations were horrible in it too. Between the lack of balance shafts and poly mounts everything had these strange harmonics. Got some rubber leaf spring bushings to replace the Barnes urethane and replacement plate will be upgraded from 3/16 to 1/4. Haven't found any other damage/cracks so I'm hoping we caught it in time.
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Its crazy how much vibration urethane bushings transmit. I bet rubber bushings will make it feel like a whole new buggy.
 
I always had to chain the motor with anything rubber.
94toytruck said:
Yeah, vibrations were horrible in it too. Between the lack of balance shafts and poly mounts everything had these strange harmonics. Got some rubber leaf spring bushings to replace the Barnes urethane and replacement plate will be upgraded from 3/16 to 1/4. Haven't found any other damage/cracks so I'm hoping we caught it in time.
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I always had to chain the motor with anything rubber. Went Bombproof urethane on mine with urethane t-case too but the rubber always worried me about ripping the case off the trans or truing to jump out from under the hood. Chain held it at bay bit holy **** it would jingle all day long. The vibrations are better than that damn jingle all day
 
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