What's new
By:
Filters

Buggy Wiring - Main Cables/Terminations/Power Distribution

Okay, I’m just gonna throw this in here. This is how it looks after you have given up and said fuck it, nobody’s gonna look under here anyway. And I just want to get the damn thing running and wheel!:flipoff2:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1319.jpeg
    IMG_1319.jpeg
    1.7 MB · Views: 71
rockdog57 said:
Okay, I’m just gonna throw this in here. This is how it looks after you have given up and said fuck it, nobody’s gonna look under here anyway. And I just want to get the damn thing running and wheel!:flipoff2:
Click to expand...

Looks like a few minutes with a handful of zipties could clean that up.

Then again, if you know what everything is and where it goes, who cares.
 
rockdog57 said:
Okay, I’m just gonna throw this in here. This is how it looks after you have given up and said fuck it, nobody’s gonna look under here anyway. And I just want to get the damn thing running and wheel!:flipoff2:
Click to expand...
We start with the best intentions
Connections look good though that's all that really matters
 
rockdog57 said:
Okay, I’m just gonna throw this in here. This is how it looks after you have given up and said fuck it, nobody’s gonna look under here anyway. And I just want to get the damn thing running and wheel!:flipoff2:
Click to expand...
Why so many relays ?
 
.400 harness
17 wires


Rocklights
In-Cab front winch control (in and out)
USB port
Front LED pods (2 modes, amber and white)
Front LED light bar (2 modes, amber and white)
ECU power
Injectors + Coils power
Wake-up trigger to ECU
Fuel pump trigger to PDM
Starter solenoid
PDM ground
Stop light switch (power and trigger)

All properly sized and strain relieved.

49174039-255E-41F2-BA26-267D7F54B754.jpeg
 
Last edited:
rockdog57 said:
Well, heater, lights, rock lights, fuel pump, engine bay lights, turn signals, tail lights
I licensed it for the street.
Click to expand...

You run stuff like blinkers and tail lights through a relay?
 
Bebop said:
.400 harness
17 wires


Rocklights
In-Cab front winch control (in and out)
USB port
Front LED pods (2 modes, amber and white)
Front LED light bar (2 modes, amber and white)
ECU power
Injectors + Coils power
Wake-up trigger to ECU
Fuel pump trigger to PDM
Starter solenoid
PDM ground
Stop light switch (power and trigger)

All properly sized and strain relieved.

49174039-255E-41F2-BA26-267D7F54B754.jpeg
Click to expand...

I see you using a small vice to hold one end as you build. Are you twisting the bundle after it's finished or as you put it together?

Certainly comes out very clean.:beer:
 
gt1guy said:
I see you using a small vice to hold one end as you build. Are you twisting the bundle after it's finished or as you put it together?

Certainly comes out very clean.:beer:
Click to expand...
It’s part of the building process.

There are multiple layers and they are wound in counter rotation one from the other.

There is a whole planning process and the breakouts and splices are certainly the most complicated part.

Not my work:

7DAA4EE1-965F-4F8A-8641-DFDEAE41A29E.jpeg
 
desertPOS said:
You run stuff like blinkers and tail lights through a relay?
Click to expand...
No, just naming random stuff under there. A couple of the relays aren’t being used. If you look on the left of the pic. There is a row of switches. So everything under there doesn’t run to a relay.
 
CarterKraft said:
Just to share this for ideas, not suggesting it's good for the OP's build but I always look at the OEMS for stuff I can repurpose.
This is power center for a excavator, these ratings are at 24v so not sure how that compares to 12, amps is amps right?

510-6341 fuse box, complete unit with fuses, buss bars, cover etc. $185

Fully sealed fuse compartments, not sure if actually waterproof though.
1701964712360.jpeg


1701964653890.jpeg
Click to expand...
Found this while looking for some other stuff.

 
Will the ECU or smart electronics get messed up if the battery is disconnected but the alternators are still running and everything is still on?
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Will the ECU or smart electronics get messed up if the battery is disconnected but the alternators are still running and everything is still on?
Click to expand...
I haven't had the balls to try it.
Technically if the alternator is still generating net positive power then the voltage wouldn't drop any but with voltage sensing wire layout that might not be true.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Will the ECU or smart electronics get messed up if the battery is disconnected but the alternators are still running and everything is still on?
Click to expand...
Depends what electronics and how it's getting disconnected.

But the load dump from an alternator has been know to fry a thing or 2
 
Bebop said:
Depends what electronics and how it's getting disconnected.

But the load dump from an alternator has been know to fry a thing or 2
Click to expand...
Got me thinking about what order to shutdown with the kill switch.
Using a dual battery or dual power source switch with ECU on 1st input and alternator on the 2nd input and Bat on the output. Normal operation is ECU+Bat+Alt. Dead is all three disconnected. ECU and Alt cannot be connected without the Bat between them.
This allows killing alternators first then giving batteries a second to absorb power before killing ECU. Or killing ECU first and killing alternators second. Don’t know if it matters.
 
Kill ECU first as long as there are no path to alternator backfeeding once that leg is disconnected.
 
Bebop said:
Kill ECU first as long as there are no path to alternator backfeeding once that leg is disconnected.
Click to expand...
The stock 2010 truck alternator has a small two pin plug that is on the ECU harness. Will that cause any back feeding? Alt main power lug only goes to winch and kill switch where it contacts to battery when on.
 
ECU has to have power from the battery, then wake up triggers (IE ignition wire).

Make sure that none of these are connected to a lug that can be back fed by the alternator.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh