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Buggy Wiring - Main Cables/Terminations/Power Distribution

Id highly recommend the RCR-12 Switch Pros to handle the ignition/start and all of the smaller accessories. It has 17 outputs with one switch capable of running 4 of them. My entire buggy is run off of it with several circuits and two switches for spare. Mine has brake/tail lights, etc. Just missing blinkers. It will clean up a lot of the wiring and get rid of 95% of the fuses/relays.
 
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Its the standard method on heavy equipment, never seen it damage any electronics but I can't say I have tried it a bunch.
Usually these are battery disconnects and not emergency shutoff switches.
They usually have some sort of a warning saying not to actuate them with the engine running.
 
Usually these are battery disconnects and not emergency shutoff switches.
They usually have some sort of a warning saying not to actuate them with the engine running.
CAT used to disconnect the battery on ground side on the old diesels. But that is almost 100 year old technology. I doubt they still do that today. Killing the power wouldn’t shut those down anyways. They ran mechanical.
 
CAT used to disconnect the battery on ground side on the old diesels. But that is almost 100 year old technology. I doubt they still do that today. Killing the power wouldn’t shut those down anyways. They ran mechanical.

When I was working for Volvo trucks a few years ago, we would install battery switches on the ground side. Right next to them, and in the manual, there was a disclaimer that was explaining not to switch those during vehicle operation.
 
Just to put it all in one post, although repeating myself a bit, but here are the power distribution options as I see them

1) Eaton Bussman boxes - there are multiple variations with different capacity for fuses, some of which also have provision for relays. Couldn't find a way to view their full product line on their website, but there is a lot of info in the Waytek catalog if you look at pages 164 through 232 there all kinds of interesting stuff relating to fuse blocks, relays, etc. Also interesting is PDMs on page 170:

'Severe Service' boxes on page 164 look to be what's offered fully wired from Busted Knuckle:

Looks like 30a max per terminal. Looks like possibly different versions for mini or regular fuses? Will look into more later...

Pros would be visually cleaner, smaller footprint, sealed front and back
Cons would be more difficult to wire, need a couple special tools and would need to remove the box from it's mounting if need to service or add wiring to it. Also may be lighter duty than we need with mini fuses and mini relays, according to post quoted below. HYDRODYNAMIC do you know what part # box you had? Was it mounted in the cab, or in the engine bay (near or away from a heat source)?

I had the small Eaton relay fuse block on the harness 208Motorsports made and it is too light duty. The terminals and relays are small and generated high heat and burned some relays but the fuses did not pop. I ended up running those relays to bigger external relays and at that point it was just extra bulk and wiring. I deleted it for the new build.
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Video that is informative showing how to wire one of these, and has links to order parts and tools used:


I reached out to Eaton to see if there is somewhere that shows their full product line for these boxes, and will add the link here later if I can find that.


2) Blue Sea fuse blocks - multiple variations, like some have 12 circuits all bussed from one 12v input, some have 12 circuits separated into blocks of 6 circuits, each with their own 12v input:

Pros are no special tools required, extremely straight forward to wire, can add or remove wiring while box is mounted
Cons would be much larger footprint, not as clean visually with wires mounted on either side. Wiring terminations not sealed up like the Eaton boxes

3) ?
 
If using the battery as a 'buffer' to separate clean and dirty voltage, are you truly achieving anything if they attach to the same battery lug? Seems like making use of main battery lug and accessory lug would be needed to truly separate the two...
 
Does anyone break the ground instead of power?
I don’t think it would work well for a racecar. If you are in an accident and short multiple comments to ground then you’ve defeated the only method of turning off the system.
 

Id highly recommend the RCR-12 Switch Pros to handle the ignition/start and all of the smaller accessories. It has 17 outputs with one switch capable of running 4 of them. My entire buggy is run off of it with several circuits and two switches for spare. Mine has brake/tail lights, etc. Just missing blinkers. It will clean up a lot of the wiring and get rid of 95% of the fuses/relays.
 
The iBooster brake thread got me thinking about how the power should be ran to the iBooster.
I assume it’s clean power since it has a computer even though it has a large motor.
It should also brake with the ignition off if you want to shut off the engine but hold the brakes.
Thinking of having it on the master kill switch otherwise always on?
 
The iBooster brake thread got me thinking about how the power should be ran to the iBooster.
I assume it’s clean power since it has a computer even though it has a large motor.
It doesn’t care. Run it to wherever you need.

It should also brake with the ignition off if you want to shut off the engine but hold the brakes.
It does stay on for about 60 seconds after you turn it off.

Thinking of having it on the master kill switch otherwise always on?
That’s fine.
 
To many wires :flipoff2:

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Where do you get your wire - looks like you've got a few spools going...
edit: is that your chassis in the bg? The rig in your build thread is covered in rust:flipoff2:


I've been meaning to update my wiring schematic - will do so soon. Ended up ordering all the main cables and terminations I need - just need to order up the fuse boxes still, although pretty sure I'm going with the Blue Sea stuff. Talked to a friend who does heavy equipment work and he didn't have anything good to say about mini relays either, so I think I'm out on the Eaton/Bussman stuff. The mini fuses don't sound like as much of an issue, but I figure I'll just go full size with both and not have to worry about it. Won't look as clean or be as sealed up but not back east or out on the open seas so I think it should be ok:homer:

As far as the Switch Pros stuff - seems like clean, quality products, but I've seen at least one instance where a failure disabled a rig and would rather not go that route with the current build. Doesn't mean I wouldn't consider it for something else though...
 
Where do you get your wire - looks like you've got a few spools going...
edit: is that your chassis in the bg? The rig in your build thread is covered in rust:flipoff2:


I've been meaning to update my wiring schematic - will do so soon. Ended up ordering all the main cables and terminations I need - just need to order up the fuse boxes still, although pretty sure I'm going with the Blue Sea stuff. Talked to a friend who does heavy equipment work and he didn't have anything good to say about mini relays either, so I think I'm out on the Eaton/Bussman stuff. The mini fuses don't sound like as much of an issue, but I figure I'll just go full size with both and not have to worry about it. Won't look as clean or be as sealed up but not back east or out on the open seas so I think it should be ok:homer:

As far as the Switch Pros stuff - seems like clean, quality products, but I've seen at least one instance where a failure disabled a rig and would rather not go that route with the current build. Doesn't mean I wouldn't consider it for something else though...
Curious what the failure was? Any details?
 
Where do you get your wire - looks like you've got a few spools going...
edit: is that your chassis in the bg? The rig in your build thread is covered in rust:flipoff2:
Prowire for everything.
Not my rig.
 
As far as the Switch Pros stuff - seems like clean, quality products, but I've seen at least one instance where a failure disabled a rig and would rather not go that route with the current build. Doesn't mean I wouldn't consider it for something else though...
yea what Scottie said, spill the beans.

all the negative reviews i can find revolve around the app and intermit issues/flicker which leads me to believe its an installation issue.
 
Curious what the failure was? Any details?
yea what Scottie said, spill the beans.

all the negative reviews i can find revolve around the app and intermit issues/flicker which leads me to believe its an installation issue.

Should have said 'read' instead of 'seen' but just going off whatever thread was here about them. Maybe multiple threads, I don't remember - there were some negative reviews or reports of problems that made me quit reading at the time. Current rig I posted this thread about also has a classic truck/hotrod vibe and digital led button panels don't fit in my opinion:homer:
 
FYI
Prowire can put the wire onto the larger diameter black spools so it doesn’t get all coiled up like a slinky when unspooling.
I twist my harnesses so it’s not as much of a concern. But I hear you. When I have my home setup dialed I’ll go to bigger coils.
 
Curious what the failure was? Any details?
From what I have seen on the web, peoples rigs taking hard hits, like bellying out etc and the impact shutting the whole system down, and because the switch board is all self-contained there is not way to trouble shoot.
 
From what I have seen on the web, peoples rigs taking hard hits, like bellying out etc and the impact shutting the whole system down, and because the switch board is all self-contained there is not way to trouble shoot.
Seems like there’s more to that story.

Being solid state electronics, I don’t see how an impact is going to do that and not also completely cripple other aspects of the vehicle from said impact.
 
Seems like there’s more to that story.

Being solid state electronics, I don’t see how an impact is going to do that and not also completely cripple other aspects of the vehicle from said impact.
just what I saw...no idea, I am no guru thats for sure:lmao:. Shoot my buggy is all traditional and has had that happen.
 
Just to share this for ideas, not suggesting it's good for the OP's build but I always look at the OEMS for stuff I can repurpose.
This is power center for a excavator, these ratings are at 24v so not sure how that compares to 12, amps is amps right?

510-6341 fuse box, complete unit with fuses, buss bars, cover etc. $185

Fully sealed fuse compartments, not sure if actually waterproof though.
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Seems like there’s more to that story.

Being solid state electronics, I don’t see how an impact is going to do that and not also completely cripple other aspects of the vehicle from said impact.
Probably more like they are slamming the plates in the battery together and shorting the battery.
There is a difference in how batteries are made to be able to handle those big hits.
 
Something like the cat system, but only 2 fused, 1 direct connection.

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I use Wire Barn for wire, and CE auto for a lot of my fuse blocks and other parts. Mcmaster for crimps and shrinks.
 
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