What's new
By:
Filters

Beadlocks with largest backspacing

YotaAtieToo said:
I know a lot of people who run them and I own a set of the older flat center wheels. They're nothing special. Just a regular steel wheel shell with their own centers.

Most people I know like them, but I have one buddy who's set leak below 5 psi (bout them to go to 1-2psi in snow) , he's been back and forth with them, and was never resolved. Said stazworks basically told him too bad after swapping inserts and nothing changing.
Click to expand...

Agree they definitely aren't perfect. Mechanical locked rings have advantages

Is the leak at the bead or o-ring center flange. I did some light sanding and polishing of the center flange to clean up paint imperfections. At 5 psi, I wonder if the tire itself cannot seal and glue/bead sealant may help, or the old tape trick.

Had one slow leak down from dirt getting jammed in the bead after a hard hit.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Sure if you want 1 off wheels that may or may not leak with poor customer service to go with them :laughing:
Click to expand...
Ive had mine since '06 and havent had a single problem :confused:

I do change the o-rings every time i have them apart, but i also have a spool of buna cord stock on the shelf so its not like it costs me anything.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Those two wheels posted on the previous page are about the fuglyiest things I've ever laid eyes on. :barf: I'd take the portals off and go solid axle if those were my only wheel choices...... :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

What happened to function over form?:flipoff2:

It wouldn't be very hard to machine them to look a little better though :laughing:

reptillikus said:
Ive had mine since '06 and havent had a single problem :confused:

I do change the o-rings every time i have them apart, but i also have a spool of buna cord stock on the shelf so its not like it costs me anything.
Click to expand...

Read my last post, they seem fine for most, just heard a few bad experiences. Enough to make it hard to justify the cost.



I was talking with them about buying parts to recenter my wheels and they said I should buy new wheels :homer: I ended up getting centers from another vendor for about the price of 1 wheel. So I'll be way ahead over buying new wheels.



Link to the cord? I was planning on new o rings.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
What happened to function over form?:flipoff2:

It wouldn't be very hard to machine them to look a little better though :laughing:
Click to expand...

I shouldn't have to machine the fugly out of $1500 wheels. Plus, unless you machine the whole center out and start over there is no helping either of those wheels in the looks department. :lmao:
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
I shouldn't have to machine the fugly out of $1500 wheels. Plus, unless you machine the whole center out and start over there is no helping either of those wheels in the looks department. :lmao:
Click to expand...
Their issue was they started with to thin of material. 2.5" thick gives you a lot more options. It also looks like they don't own a lathe.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Read my last post, they seem fine for most, just heard a few bad experiences. Enough to make it hard to justify the cost.

I was talking with them about buying parts to recenter my wheels and they said I should buy new wheels :homer: I ended up getting centers from another vendor for about the price of 1 wheel. So I'll be way ahead over buying new wheels.

Link to the cord? I was planning on new o rings.
Click to expand...


That's fair. I havent heard of issues, but i also havent searched much since i already own mine.

I got a spool of cord stock from work (which will last me a lifetime), but McMaster carr sells it:

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com

Mine use 1/8" cord, which is only .42 a foot. Im assuming they havent changed over the years but who knows for sure. Looking at my notes i have the size and cut length for both versions of the 12-bolt HMMWV wheels, but it looks like i never wrote down the length for the stazwork 17" wheel. Its probably about 4' per wheel.

If youre not aware, you can glue Buna-N using cyanoacrylate, which is krazy glue.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
I shouldn't have to machine the fugly out of $1500 wheels. Plus, unless you machine the whole center out and start over there is no helping either of those wheels in the looks department. :lmao:
Click to expand...

I agree, I guess I meant during production.

bdkw1 said:
Their issue was they started with to thin of material. 2.5" thick gives you a lot more options. It also looks like they don't own a lathe.
Click to expand...

No need for a lathe

reptillikus said:
That's fair. I havent heard of issues, but i also havent searched much since i already own mine.

I got a spool of cord stock from work (which will last me a lifetime), but McMaster carr sells it:

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com

Mine use 1/8" cord, which is only .42 a foot. Im assuming they havent changed over the years but who knows for sure. Looking at my notes i have the size and cut length for both versions of the 12-bolt HMMWV wheels, but it looks like i never wrote down the length for the stazwork 17" wheel. Its probably about 4' per wheel.

If youre not aware, you can glue Buna-N using cyanoacrylate, which is krazy glue.
Click to expand...

Gotcha, thanks

I was figuring ca glue from a hobby shop, it will glue rubber together stronger than the rubber itself. But I believe it is similar to Krazy glue.
 
Late to this party, but I run Staz's double beadlocks (17 X 9, 6.5 ish BS). Not quite as good as the H1's I had, but wanted to get
away from 16.5's, as was thinking about upgrading to 406's, which are lot harder to fit brakes, than 404's.

2014-06-19_19-45-53_713.jpg
 
Weasel said:
Theb


They are aluminum.. But youre not interested in any of the reasonable suggestions here so...:flipoff2:
Click to expand...
Maybe ill have to read back through. I dony recall seeing any reasonable options... at least not that I liked.

I also figured id drag this thread on being that nothing decent comes up in Google searches so it may help someone eles out.
 
2big bronco said:
at least not that I liked.

I also figured id drag this thread on being that nothing decent comes up in Google searches so it may help someone eles out.
Click to expand...
exactly, eh no doesn't bother me at all. I can't recall who's who for wheels anymore so much has changed.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Have you considered a stock bronco beadlock? :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

Not seriously untill I realized there are 2 different ones.

Not sure if it was talked about in this thread already... but a bandlands model bronco without the sasquatch package but ordered with beadlocks got an oddball wheel. 17x8 with roughly 6-1/4" backspacing. 99% of the factory bronco wheels out there are 17x8.5 with 5" backspacing or so.
The only used ones with the 6-1/4" I can find are 800 miles away so Im working on convincing YotaAtieToo to bring them to me since he found them.
 
Would be cool to get some more specs on these wheels. Could be helpful for other guys looking to keep scrub down even if it's not on a bronco.

They may need machining for other rigs, but the cost savings over any other 6" wheel, it seems like not a big deal.

I wish I would have had an opportunity to try one on my 4runner. Most of the 96+ ifs Toyota don't have a protruding hub, so it may work.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Would be cool to get some more specs on these wheels. Could be helpful for other guys looking to keep scrub down even if it's not on a bronco.

They may need machining for other rigs, but the cost savings over any other 6" wheel, it seems like not a big deal.

I wish I would have had an opportunity to try one on my 4runner. Most of the 96+ ifs Toyota don't have a protruding hub, so it may work.
Click to expand...

So I measured from the outside of the rear lip to the mounting surface and got 6-3/4
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh