Projectjunkie
Whatever
Ex mil recommended this for mine, I just bought whatever was mid grade at lowes, haven't sprayed it yet
Absolutely notepoxy?
might not like the look after a few years of direct sunlight though
That patio is awesome!
Ex mil recommended this for mine, I just bought whatever was mid grade at lowes, haven't sprayed it yet
CUTEK ExtremeDoes anyone have any recommendations for a outdoor stain that will hold up with this harsh weather? It snows here in the winter, but its mostly warm and sunny, very sunny.
I understand that darker pigments hold up better, but the natural color of the wood is near perfect. Maybe a thick varnish for marine use?
That fully sucks. The same thing happened to a friend in Vegas, 40' x 80' pull through shop was mostly framed when a windstorm came through and made pickup sticks.My original plan was a steel building. Unless you are DIY-ing it, it's cheaper to stick build them. With a metal building, you have to frame the inside with wood, almost like building it twice. Resale is better on traditional stick built houses if you ever need to sell, even if they are an oversized man cave.
The main problems I've had is the plans had to be "engineered". In my case, that meant a whole bunch of added costs. He went way overboard. I guess if we ever get a tornado or major earthquake in Northern Arizona mountains, at least the green board and all those oversized anchor plates will still be there. He forced us to special order a specific square base plate for round peeler patio posts, and wrote in the plans we can cut them down, when they make round plates. He specified 5/8" foundation anchor bolts when 1/2" is standard. The 1/2" bolts are less than a dollar each, the 5/8" are almost $5 each. There are $45 plates that bolt onto the anchor bolts and screw into the wall studs every 8'. The framers had to cut out studs under window openings to meet his requirements. Every outside wall header requires 6, 2x6" studs on each side. Specified nails every 3" in the wall board when 6" is standard. He is requiring a bunch of specialty anchors/hangers for the patio rafters, the trusses, etc. We have to use 2x10, 16" on center rafters for the patios, which is much bigger than the contractor and framers are saying is necessary. He drew very specific plans, then put "Not Used" on the reference numbers. He wanted to double truss the end, which has to hold up the 70x17' patio without bringing the wall all the way up. The framers called the inspector because they couldn't get ahold of the engineer. Inspector came out and said they could use a single truss and bring the wall all the way up. He also won't answer his phone or call anyone back when they have questions or want to change things. Fuck that asshole. He called me back right away when I called to discuss payment, then went dark.
None of that helped when a wind storm flexed the back 55'x16' wall, and the unroofed trusses failed. It collapsed the trusses and pushed every wall out of plum, and the framer had to order 20 replacement trusses. I know it was the framers fault because he knew better, but fuckity fuck fuck. Wind peeled sheets of OSB off the stack and blew them 100 yards down the hill. It monsoon season. It rained 2" in two hours at the same time.
Here the septic took a few days for the site plan to be approved.BDK that sucks on the power company contact! Sounds like there are always cogs in the wheel (mine has been the county septic office) of building progress regardless of location.
Sounds about right for the County farming out to an Engineering Firm, so that they (the County) can blame the engineering firm for any hold ups in the process or future issues.Here the septic took a few days for the site plan to be approved.
The permit office started farming out new construction plan approval to a engineering firm about a year ago. Not a big surprise an engineering firm want just about anything they haven't seen before "engineered". What surprised me was all the added crap way beyond code, and the several mistakes that were made by an engineer, and approved by an engineering firm and by the county.
It was only a few years ago in Mohave County that they wanted people to build. It increases property values, which increases property taxes. If the contractor and designer were already established and well known to the office, they used to approve permits over the front counter. Now it takes a few months.
The two metal building manufacturers/installers in this area closed last year.Metal has come down a good bit here in the DFW area. My buddies are building shops turnkey on slabs at 26 or 28 a square foot plus’s doors or windows.
But you are 100% right on selling a stick built home is way easier to borrow money against.
Must be nice being old. You don't gotta plan on a 30 or 60yr timeline where the real unknown-unknowns are. You don't gotta wonder how the collapse you precipitated will effect things.
Younger people gotta worry whether sometime in the 2060s they'll get fucked out of their retirement investments or if they'll get fucked out of their land. When you're in it for the long haul you can't afford to discount political instability and how it may affect your investments.
Garage is attached to the house. Don't really know the separate costs for garage. I had what I wanted drawn out on a CAD program and gave that to the designer. The plans cost me about $1,500, plus $3,500 for a structual engineer to raise my overall build costs significantly without any real benefit, except if we ever have a hurricane, tornado or earthquake in Northern Arizona.how much for plans and the build.cost foe the garage ?? just wondering
That's awesome on power company updates and quite the puzzle piece for patio trusses!When I found that parcel, I knew if was the right setting to build the house I've had in my head for a long time.
The power company guy called me today and said the plans are on his bosses desk for approval.
The framers are struggling a little with the patio truss. They stressed the shit out of me today. The only way I can figure to get the angled beams to be at the same angle is to install all the vertical beams first. Then install the larger angled beams, then the smaller beams at the same angle. The longer angled beams are between two vertical beams and there placement sets the angle. They were trying to install the smaller beams first, but they don't know the angle of the larger beams. Those beams are special order, very expensive and we only have enough to do it once.
The contractor and framing company owner are going to be out there supervising tomorrow. I think I'll take the day off.
Needs more triangulation.
If the triangles are too big and floppy then add more verticals and make more triangles.Moving it to the white zone makes the red zone weak