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aw4 to 205/241 with 22r turbo on propane

chaplinfj60

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3057
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marshalltown iowa
good am all,

with the lead times of atlas and everything what do you think about this as a combo, sure i like my 5 spd, but think i want to do an auto now. the turbo and gearing has help the little engine come alive but if your not in the right gear your still kinda screwed. so here's my idea, and just dropping in a LS was my first thought, but then i built my buggy around a 22r so everything is tight sure i could do it but dam its fun to hear this little engine sing.... :beer::beer:

22r to aw4 to 205/241 and will entertain changing axle gears if they are too deep.


again just tossing out ideas is all
 
With the auto, do you even need the doubler? What about aw4 to 241 set up with rubicon-type 4:1? Would keep the weight down.

How's the Toyota bell Aisin for bolting to the 241? Thinking you can swap the Jeep tailhousing/adapter off of the XJ version?
 
i have read quite a few people did the 22r to aw4, but its painful at first getting all the parts i do like the idea of a rubicon case but i think that is driver drop? but not sure i have pass drop currently.,

this last week out i stayed in 2.28 most the day until it was time to blast a hill with some wheel speed or crawl something then went to 4.7, never used super low that weekend MIOBI.
 
I was thinking the 4:1 low range set (or aftermarket, not sure what’s available) in a 1988-1993 Dodge passenger drop case. I’m sure somebody here knows what differences there may be between a regular 241 an a 241OR that might keep you from using the OR gear set. NP241D. Or NP241C out of 1988-91 Blazer/Suburban, buy you’d be saddled with a rear slip yoke. Dodge has a fixed yoke those years. Factory clocking on the Chevy is down further, dodge is flatter. If you can use the Jeep tail housing and tail shaft, the dodge 23 spline input is the same.
 
You just run the A340 bell on a AW4.

Rig specs matter. I'm also in agreement a 4:1 D300 would suffice.
 
You just run the A340 bell on a AW4.
Good to know. I'm pretty hard-headed about running a stick, but if I ever could convince the wife to wheel I think I'd build an auto. I definitely see the appeal and how it would be advantageous in several situations and for certain obstacles.
 
Nothing wrong with the D300, but the 241 is probably cheaper considering your power levels and availability of parts in 2022. That being said, if you go big power engine swap someday I'm sure there's more high zoot parts available for the D300. With 7.17 and an auto, I bet you'd get along just fine with a single around 4:1 low range.
 
be a guinea pig for us and try one of their t-case?

 
be a guinea pig for us and try one of their t-case?

I looked around their website and couldn't find the answer. Is it based around a factory gearset, or is it a bespoke unit?
 
I looked around their website and couldn't find the answer. Is it based around a factory gearset, or is it a bespoke unit?
good question. I think they're some modified/upsized oem stuff?

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and if i really wanted to go full stupid, and i think this could work, would be super charged 3800 then auto and 205/241 or just 241.
 
7.17 gears and what tire size?

If it's 40" or below, definitely just do a 4:1 single case. High range will work fine with an auto in sand/snow and low will crawl great. Unless you're wheeling super tech/steep terrain I don't think you need lower.
 
so iowa, as much as i like to think i havea bunch of rocks to crawl thats not the story, only if we go out of town by 8 hours do i get that good stuff,

this last weekend here i used 2.28 and first and second gear for most the terrain, then when i wanted to crawl over a rocky ledge or bang shift a hill i would use the 4.7 and 2 nd gear or hill killing 4.7 and 3rd to 4th. only if i am in a super tech rock crawling area like iron range in MN would i use but tcases. so one buddy has 5.3 , 4l60, and 204/241 and he stays in the 241 all the time, and that works amazing, i rode with him this weekend and loved it. he has 5 something gears in axle and 40 or 42 cant remember. loved it,
 
I probably missed it but what side deop is your front?

You keep typing 205/241. Are you talking about a doubler or just thise as options?
You keep put 205 before 241 are you thinking of 205 firat as reduc then the 241?
 
It's tough with a Yota 5sp because we have to be somewhat gentle with them. A couple full throttle clutch dumps could end your day. With an AW4 (or A340) you can give it the beans from a dead stop and the trans will take it.

What about an NWF Black/Eco box to D300? Then you'll get front dig capability, and 2.7:1x2:0 reduction.
 
It's tough with a Yota 5sp because we have to be somewhat gentle with them. A couple full throttle clutch dumps could end your day. With an AW4 (or A340) you can give it the beans from a dead stop and the trans will take it.

What about an NWF Black/Eco box to D300? Then you'll get front dig capability, and 2.7:1x2:0 reduction.
:lmao:Just recently found that out. 20R>>>G series:laughing:
 
D300 "cant be flipped" either but people figured it out.

205 come in both drops but fords only have big bore so making a 23spl d-side is gona take some extra effort.
But ford d20s also exist and are fairly stout, d300 compareable.
 
I am collecting parts for something similar. I want to run dual gear driven Toyota transfer cases behind the auto.

I have -
Toyota A340 Bell housing
Toyota A340 torque converter
Toyota A340 flex plate
Jeep AW4

I still need -
Radesigns VX shifter
Toyota RF1A tcase adapter
Fluid cooler and lines
PXL_20220611_025613227.jpg
 
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