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Anyone regret doing a Cummins swap?

CarterKraft said:
Sucks you are having these problems but good on yah for sharing the lows.

I wouldn't say I told you so or anything but It's good to know I'm not the only one that has hell with "proven" parts from "great companies".
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It's crazy how much garbage there is out there for these swaps. I thought I avoided it, but I guess not.

I was 90% happy with the Carrick customs parts. But putting the engine mount 3/4" from the ps pump was pretty gay.

V30crewcab said:
thats why I run a valair clutch in mine. I've talked to the owner in person many times, and still have his personal phone number. real good dude. the day I bought my clutch from him at a deisel show, he was ready to help us swap it in the parking lot but I didn't have the truck with me!
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Valair reboxes sachs and doubles the price also from what I've read.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
It's crazy how much garbage there is out there for these swaps. I thought I avoided it, but I guess not.

I was 90% happy with the Carrick customs parts. But putting the engine mount 3/4" from the ps pump was pretty gay.



Valair reboxes sachs and doubles the price also from what I've read.
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maybe stock shit. my clutch is rated for 1000 ft lbs of torque, not doing that with a stock clutch!
 
YotaAtieToo said:
It's crazy how much garbage there is out there for these swaps. I thought I avoided it, but I guess not.

I was 90% happy with the Carrick customs parts. But putting the engine mount 3/4" from the ps pump was pretty gay.



Valair reboxes sachs and doubles the price also from what I've read.
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I went through it on my dad's C10, spend the money for the "bolt in" solution and have to do so much engineering to fix it you just basically bought the raw materials :mad3:
 
CarterKraft said:
I went through it on my dad's C10, spend the money for the "bolt in" solution and have to do so much engineering to fix it you just basically bought the raw materials :mad3:
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Ya, I've guess I've been in the 4wd/crawler realm long enough I know which companies to avoid and what ones are legit. Going into the diesel world, I could only go off the diesel forums, which are more or less a bunch of mouth breathers who don't know good products from garbage.

I'm still surprised no one sells a flywheel bored out to 47mm to for the Ford bearing.
 
The southbend behind my 4bt has been great for a decade, but idk about what southbend is doing now obvs.

The valair dual disc organic in my f550 has been great too, but it is a bit grabby. I figure that's expected with a dual disc.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
The southbend behind my 4bt has been great for a decade, but idk about what southbend is doing now obvs.

The valair dual disc organic in my f550 has been great too, but it is a bit grabby. I figure that's expected with a dual disc.
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I don't know much about their higher end clutches, just that some of the single discs are reboxed and price doubled.

Plus now that they have shitty marketing.
 
That Dorman fan cleared the accessories on mine after trimming those tabs, just barely. It did not clear the fluidampr though. Might look a little closer at it if your plastic one doesn't work out.
 
BustedCrank said:
That Dorman fan cleared the accessories on mine after trimming those tabs, just barely. It did not clear the fluidampr though. Might look a little closer at it if your plastic one doesn't work out.
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Doesn't even look close on mine. I get there was a 3/16" gap under the fan, but just holding it up to the threaded hub and it was almost hitting before I even started to thread it on.
 
V30crewcab said:
maybe stock shit. my clutch is rated for 1000 ft lbs of torque, not doing that with a stock clutch!
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My NV4500 with well used LuK OE replacement 12-1/4” clutch dyno’d nearly 1,000 ft•lbs. no slips.

I made a thread on here about how I highly suspect south bend and valair simply rebox or mix & match single disk OE replacement clutches.

Clutches may not match or exceed the power output, but hold up fine as it’s not like we do tug of wars or towing immovable objects. :homer:
 
Provience said:
Any reason to not run a smaller direct drive for the fan instead of a clutch? Might give you more options
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I mean, I know I have a Cummings with basically unlimited horse tourques, but these big fans have to pull a lot of power.

Not to mention the thing would never ever warm up 90% of the year.
 
[486] said:
u r dum

ETA: fuck not GCC
your thermostat controls engine temperature, not fan clutch
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Then what's the fan clutch for? Why do guys run rad blankets in cold weather?

I get the thermostats job, but a constant fan sure wouldn't help an already cold blooded diesel.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Then what's the fan clutch for? Why do guys run rad blankets in cold weather?

I get the thermostats job, but a constant fan sure wouldn't help an already cold blooded diesel.
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Fan clutch appeased the EPA :rasta:

If it fits and works, all good. Just tossing it out there as another option
 
After seeing the current generation of brushless fans I don't think I'd be too scared of a 4 gang of Chevy bolt fans.
 
I'm sure if you could fit 4 super efficient fans in the radiator, it would probably work. Probably need a bigger alt at that point?

Again, this has been done a million times. I'm not that tight on space, just need the right combo. A stock fan with a little mod or spacer might be the ticket.
 
CarterKraft said:
After seeing the current generation of brushless fans I don't think I'd be too scared of a 4 gang of Chevy bolt fans.
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It’s pretty amazing how good e fans have gotten. 5 years ago I told everyone I knew wanting an Efan to stay the fuck away from them. While I still prefer the fan clutch, the brushless e fans have gotten so damn good the gap is closing.

As with everything, there’s an exception. The e fan exception is rear mounted radiator race car stuff but they usually have such oversized radiators the e fans aren’t much of an issue but apples to apples comparisons, like a stock rad with fan clutch to stock rad with e fan the e fan setups usually ran hotter but like I said, that gap is closing with the brushless setups. I have seen good luck with the 2018 Camaro SS fans.
 
Yeah I would run mechanical if I could, still the most cooling power available.

With the improvement in fans I think its always a good idea to consider them in each application, might be a real problem solver for some.
The little SPAL knock off fans are not even in the same league as the brushless units from reputable brands.
 
I ran a single Taurus/Volvo fan in my excursion with no temp issues (manual trans)

I laid it out to run 2 but never needed to add the second.

Not sure how the super duty radiator compares in size to the OBS one though but it was a fuck ton bigger than the stock 1st gen Dodge one.

IMG_20150907_172602_zps1kkgg6u9-L.jpg
 
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Gots_a_sol said:
I ran a single Taurus/Volvo fan in my excursion with no temp issues.

I laid it out to run 2 but never needed to add the second.

Not sure how the super duty radiator compares in size to the OBS one though but it was a fuck ton bigger than the stock 1st gen Dodge one.

IMG_20150907_172602_zps1kkgg6u9-L.jpg
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4 chevy volts on that shroud would be a lot of air

irate4x4.com

Cooling Fan Tech

Location and ambient temps have a big effect of radiator and fan needs. What works for rock bouncers and technical crawling with light weight buggies doesn’t work for continuous throttle KOH racing on a hot year. Radiator location also has big effect, catching air flow at speed vs a radiator...
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com

1726499967409.jpeg
 
06h3 said:
It’s pretty amazing how good e fans have gotten. 5 years ago I told everyone I knew wanting an Efan to stay the fuck away from them. While I still prefer the fan clutch, the brushless e fans have gotten so damn good the gap is closing.

As with everything, there’s an exception. The e fan exception is rear mounted radiator race car stuff but they usually have such oversized radiators the e fans aren’t much of an issue but apples to apples comparisons, like a stock rad with fan clutch to stock rad with e fan the e fan setups usually ran hotter but like I said, that gap is closing with the brushless setups. I have seen good luck with the 2018 Camaro SS fans.
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I'm pretty much on the manual fan boat on my offroad rigs also. Even if the clutch fails, a drill and bolt fixes it.

I've never had anything high HP enough for a an efan to not be capable enough, just always liked the simplicity. That being said, I'm not totally against them. My 1 ton Toyota will definitely end up efan soon.

Gots_a_sol said:
I ran a single Taurus/Volvo fan in my excursion with no temp issues (manual trans)

I laid it out to run 2 but never needed to add the second.

Not sure how the super duty radiator compares in size to the OBS one though but it was a fuck ton bigger than the stock 1st gen Dodge one.
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How often did you tow in the heat? 10 years of running the 7.3, I only remember the fan kicking on a few times really, but at the same time when it did kick on, it was usually a yuge grade at 100*

From what I can read online, the SD rad is 2" taller and the same width.

I'd do e fans, but only as an absolute last resort. Part of the appeal to this swap over another 7.3 was simplifing things, getting rid of electronics.

BTW, I like your lincoln, we had 3 or 4 of those big red cubes at my old work and they were tanks, lasted a long time being ran every day. Also wish more welders had the 120v outlet on them.


Update on the flywheel: Called summit and they were basically like "2.5 years is just too long man" :laughing:

He said call southbend and if they wouldn't do anything he would push it further. Southbend said the p# for the flywheel I need is exactly the same except it has f/c in front of it. Maybe summit messed up, maybe I did, who knows. He was willing to swap it if I paid shipping, but fucking shipping both ways would be more than machining.

So whatever, I'm just going to get it machined, 72Pstroke connected me with a local guy who is able to do same day turn around. So that's sweet.
 
Took a fair amount off both clutch hub and snout.

The clutch hub has ~1/8" of floating in the clutch. So hopefully it's not still rubbing, no idea how to check without full assembly
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Clutch seems to be working fine now, slightly hard to get in gear, but is getting better? Either clutch break in on a little air in the hydraulics I believe.

Had some slight panic earlier as I was getting lots of oil out the dipstick. Figured at this point of course it would dump a ring :laughing:

After having a mechanic buddy look at it, he was thinking maybe plugged ccv. Long story short I learned that these vac pumps exhaust into the crank case and a leak can cause excessive crank case pressure....... Well I hadn't hooked anything to it yet, so it had the most leak possible :homer:

Hooked that up, made a dipstick seal from a random hose and it seems 100x's better
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Long story short I learned that these vac pumps exhaust into the crank case and a leak can cause excessive crank case pressure....... Well I hadn't hooked anything to it yet, so it had the most leak possible :homer:
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might want to change your oil and filter if it has been that way for a while
lots of dirt gets sucked in from vacuum pump leaks
 
Drove it every day this week, seems to be working fine. I'd like to get the oil leak on the rear valve cover fixed though. It's leaking down on top of the trans and off the side near the tcase yoke :homer:

Might be over tightened?
 
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