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Anyone regret doing a Cummins swap?

YotaAtieToo said:
Anyone have any ideas to see what fans have the same bolt pattern and rotation direction?
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I used the fan off my 6.2 diesel on my 12v swap. Its super close the the front of the engine. Had to grind about an 1/8th inch off the front of the water pump snout for it to clear.
 
KB6Chris said:
I used the fan off my 6.2 diesel on my 12v swap. Its super close the the front of the engine. Had to grind about an 1/8th inch off the front of the water pump snout for it to clear.
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my fan is close now thanks to a fluidamper, and the 93 intercooled fan bearing. I ended up putting a big split washer in the fan clutch to and screwing it in. just enough clearance, but I really need to epoxy a spacer in as it jumps out when you take it loose, and its hard to install sometimes.
 
I guess I should have mentioned that I'm trying to take the fan off without pulling the radiator which means I can't take the Shroud off so basically there's no room in there to swing hammers or punches or anything
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I guess I should have mentioned that I'm trying to take the fan off without pulling the radiator which means I can't take the Shroud off so basically there's no room in there to swing hammers or punches or anything
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my fan clutch chisel is 16" long

put an edge on a piece of rebar or whatever
it doesn't need to be particularly sharp, in fact a blunt edge is better for "moving" rather than "cutting"
 
People bitch about engineers on new vehicles, but look at this shit. Can't get either end of a wrench on it with pulling the 6 pulley bolts, which
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are also a huge pain
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I'm not sure you could move as much air with 2 small electric fans anyway?
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Nothing beats the stock fan. I forget the numbers but it’s like 2x better air flow with that stock Cummins fan. Something like 10000 cfm to 4500 cfm.
YotaAtieToo said:
Anyone have any tricks to get the fan clutch broke loose?
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A really long air chisel or I’ve used the end of a spud wrench before lol. I’ve also sleeved a short chisel with a pipe and welded it to create a long chisel. I prefer the round pointy kind not the flat type
 
Still finding more shit that shitty shop did wrong. I'm at the point where I might have to call and ask for a refund and pay for repairs and or blast him online? It feels douchy to do, but he really shouldn't be working on shit. Especially not swaps. Which is what he claims to specialize in.

Found the front valve cover leaking, pulled it and noticed the stud was hitting. Backed off the nut and the stud was loose in the head :homer::mad3: I rechecked some, but probably need to go through the all.

This one had about 1/2" of thread before I tightened it.

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Went for another drive and there is a wierd squeek/screech from the clutch. At this point, I should probably pull it apart and take a look.
 
warm up the engine, and retorque the head. what clutch is in it? my kevlar clutch squeaks sometimes.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
People bitch about engineers on new vehicles, but look at this shit. Can't get either end of a wrench on it with pulling the 6 pulley bolts, which
20240907_183152.jpg
are also a huge pain
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I took my truck’s fan off many times, for either repairs or for winter. Smacking on the fan wrench don’t always work for me.

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I use the tool on far left on fan pulley’s 10mm bolt heads to stop it from rotating.

Then, take 10mm bolts off the fan pulley to access fan pulley bracket bolts. These dinky bolts don’t take much to break loose. Put belt back on to hold it in place if needed.
 
TrailTamer said:
I took my truck’s fan off many times, for either repairs or for winter. Smacking on the fan wrench don’t always work for me.

IMG_4575.jpeg


I use the tool on far left on fan pulley’s 10mm bolt heads to stop it from rotating.

Then, take 10mm bolts off the fan pulley to access fan pulley bracket bolts. These dinky bolts don’t take much to break loose. Put belt back on to hold it in place if needed.
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i have this tool also and have used for years, works great on 7.3 fords and 4.9 fords
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Still finding more shit that shitty shop did wrong. I'm at the point where I might have to call and ask for a refund and pay for repairs and or blast him online? It feels douchy to do, but he really shouldn't be working on shit. Especially not swaps. Which is what he claims to specialize in.
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You should.

I was blew away on how he had supply & return reversed. Surprised it still ran like that.
 
V30crewcab said:
warm up the engine, and retorque the head. what clutch is in it? my kevlar clutch squeaks sometimes.
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I saw that in the arp instructions. Just have to loosen some of the inject lines to get to them.

It's just a luk clutch. Its sounds like throw out bearing. Does it sometimes while releasing the clutch and sometimes while just letting off the throttle.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I guess I should have mentioned that I'm trying to take the fan off without pulling the radiator which means I can't take the Shroud off so basically there's no room in there to swing hammers or punches or anything
Click to expand...

I use a big damn wrench that sticks above the fan and whack it with a hammer.

Came from tractor supply in the early 2000’s. I want to think it was half the price of that shitty fan clutch set at AutoZone made out of sheet steel that spreads the jaws.
 
Mikel said:
Go electric on the other side.
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Pusher?


Thatg9659 said:
I use a big damn wrench that sticks above the fan and whack it with a hammer.

Came from tractor supply in the early 2000’s. I want to think it was half the price of that shitty fan clutch set at AutoZone made out of sheet steel that spreads the jaws.
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It's really tight with everything in there.

Plan is to put the fan on and trim the shroud to be able to drop in from the top.
 
Got the fan today. No time to install, but looks like it's set way further back, possibly too far, but we'll see.

Potato pics

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If you can't tell in the pics, the blades are similar but new fan is centered on the blades vs having a big dish.
 
So quick mock up, I don't think this fan will work. For 1, it won't fit the clutch, because of these tangs. I could probably cut them out and I think it would fit well, but I don't want to modify it if it's not going to fit anyway.

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It's about 1/4" from seated, but is just way to far back, going to hit the water pump and balancer.

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Guess I'll try the plastic one from Amazon
 
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So throwout bearing is fine, but the clutch hub and trans snout are rubbing.

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Everything I read said the 12v and 7.3 used basically identical clutch and flywheel except for the pilot bearing size or something very minor. I'm wondering if I can just sand down the clutch hub a bit?
 
Well I'm confused

I swear I bought a conversion flywheel. But when I look at my order from summit, it just comes up as a stock replacement for an 89-03 cummins.

Edit: pretty positive this was the case SBC and DCS were selling basically a stock flywheel marked up as a conversion piece...... even found the link in a forum. Which is now dead obviously. :homer:

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It's close enough everything will bolt up, but pilot bearing is different. Supposedly the pilot bearing I bought will fit this flywheel, but it looks like a larger OD.

Plus clutch rubbing the trans snout.
 
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Saving more links

mix and matching clutches and flywheels - Diesel Bombers

12 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 94-98 - mix and matching clutches and flywheels - ok, i'm gonna confuse people with what i've got going on here lol 1st - i'm putting a 96 12v in my ford with a zf5 behind it. 2nd - i need a flywheel to put behind the cummins (mine had a flywheel). 13 flywheel will...
www.dieselbombers.com
 
Fuck south bend clutch and fuck diesel conversion specialists, shady ass companies.

The part I bought is south bend clutch p# 167890-5. I am positive that it was advertised on dcs and sbc websites as a conversion flywheel. Even found the dead link I posted above. Ordered from summit because free shipping (and hopefully easy return)

If you Google that p# there is different info on almost every page it's listed on. Some say it's an 89-93 flywheel, some say 00-03 nv5600, some say it's 89-03, some say it's to use a 13" clutch in an nv4500, some say it's not a stock replacement and only works with south bend clutches, ect.

South bend has reboxed and upcharged clutches for years advertising stock replacement clutches as some sort of upgrade. I only bought this piece from them because I thought it had been machined to accept the Ford pilot bearing
 
thats why I run a valair clutch in mine. I've talked to the owner in person many times, and still have his personal phone number. real good dude. the day I bought my clutch from him at a deisel show, he was ready to help us swap it in the parking lot but I didn't have the truck with me!
 
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