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Anyone know JCB telehandlers? Steering problems....

WTF? said:
Well that’s not satisfactory…
Can we get some highlights of the sketch factors? How many times were you 90% confident it was going to end up barrel rolling off the side of the lowboy? How close did you or the driver come to losing digits/limbs and how many times? Did you destroy the tilt deck trying to use it as a loading dock/ramp? So many unanswered questions…
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Well, let's see...

I had my neighbor who is a little slow and was mostly likely drunk. At several points when I was showing the machine sideways with the tractor I had him telling me to keep pushing while the driver was waving his hand yelling stop.

I put my big jackstands under the back of the tilt deck and they worked well, but at some point during the sideshovign, they started to tilt sideways. The deck only dropped a few inches when we rolled it on. I did find one of the jackstands about 6" in the gravel driveway when we were done. :laughing:

I think it was almost worse yesterday when I got the front steering working and i didn't notice that it was inching the whole front end sideways as I was moving the steering back and forth. When I finally noticed, the front tires was like 80% off the trailer deck and most of the remaining 20% was on the rub rail.
 
So the good news is, I'm finding that there are a good bit of import/aftermarket parts available for these. Looks like they share quite a bit of parts across the line of handlers, loaders and skids.

Like this F-R shift lever that just falls right the fuck out of the column under the vibration of the machine running. :lmao:
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Found one on ebay last night for $30 shipped :smokin:
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Couldn't find the control knobs...probably have to go OEM for those. One of the carriage knobs was floating around under the seat. I notice it has a button on it and I have no clue what it's supposed to do. I may need to buy the operator's manual as I don't see this in the wiring diagrams.
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And the gear selector also has a button that I can't find any reference to what it's supposed to do. :confused:
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JD Mark said:
On my 212 it was the transmission "dump".

Depress it and it would disengage the transmission so you could raise RPMs to raise/lower the boom faster.
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Make sense. I'll have to try it next time I start it up. That button might still be intact. The one on the boom controls is definitely gone. :laughing:
 
JD Mark said:
On my 212 it was the transmission "dump".

Depress it and it would disengage the transmission so you could raise RPMs to raise/lower the boom faster.
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That would be my guess, our JCB off-road forklift at work has a button (or buttons) that do that.
It's also on many commercial backhoes and loaders that have torque converter transmissions.

Aaron Z
 
So I tracked my bad engine oil leak down to a bad oil pressure sensor. At first I thought it was the threads so I put some sealant on it. Still puking. Then I noticed both faces had machined surfaces so I put a copper crush washer under it. Still leaking. Then I cleaned it all off really good, started the engine and jumped back to see that it was actually leaking around the body of the sensor. $24 later I have one on the way from ebay. I like easy fixes. :smokin:


But now I'm on the the worst hydraulic leak, which is coming from the accumulator assembly. Still needs a heavy dose of degreasing, but I cleaned it enough to be pretty confident that it's steadily dripping from between the chamber on the right and the main body of the accumulator.
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The service manual has nothing about disassembly or rebuilding it. It only goes in to the methods of testing it.

From what I read, it only serves as a stored "power source" for the brakes - if the engine were to die, it's supposed to give you at least 30 applications of the brakes.

Anyone ever fucked with one of these? Is it rebuldable?

I'm probably going to have to buy the parts manual next as it's pretty hard to find any reliably accurate part numbers, but I found one that I think is right....and it's $550 just for that chamber thing. :eek:

I'm also not sure how you're supposed to remove/install it without fucking it up. Some of the ones I see on ebay have a hex on the little outside nub. Mine's just a round stub.

I believe this is the correct OEM part:
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This is more what mine looks like (don't think is the the exact one for mine though)
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Again, not sure that this is the exact one for mine, but looks for close
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Some of the other ones I've seen have a hex on the end like this.
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It also looks like the full assembly is upwards of $1400, which I really don't want to think about.
 
I’m sure it’s just cracked or rings. Shut the machine off and stop on the brakes a dozen times to take the pressure off then you can remove the block. You should be able to remove the accumulators and put new orings in the block. Do not fuck with the cap on the end.

I have never fucked with one that looks like that but this is how I would do it if it was mine. So take that with a grain of salt.

Just because that part is wet you need to clean it off and watch where the oil is coming from. It could be dripping off something from above it.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
I’m sure it’s just cracked or rings. Shut the machine off and stop on the brakes a dozen times to take the pressure off then you can remove the block. You should be able to remove the accumulators and put new orings in the block. Do not fuck with the cap on the end.

I have never fucked with one that looks like that but this is how I would do it if it was mine. So take that with a grain of salt.

Just because that part is wet you need to clean it off and watch where the oil is coming from. It could be dripping off something from above it.
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I did put a pig mat above it to verify that it wasn't dripping from one of the hose on top. I'm about 97% certain it's coming from between the chamber and block. I guess I can go do one more check to verify it's not coming from one of the fittings on top of the block itself.


What do you think the best way is to remove the accumulator from the block? I don't see any logical way to grab on to it without risking damage, and I'm assuming it's going to be fairly tight. Strap wrench?


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No pressure wash it clean it with brake cleaner dry it off and run it go under and watch. You cannot hurt those accumulators. They are probably 1/4” wall. A chain wrench or a heavy duty strap could do it. I would reseal all the orings on the block at the same time . Most of the times it’s the stinking port plugs that leak cause the orings dry out.

Find your self a kit like this to get the proper oring for the port fittings. The Chineseium super wrong durometer orings from harbor freight are worthless for shit like this.
 
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ThePanzerFuhrer said:
No pressure wash it clean it with brake cleaner dry it off and run it go under and watch. You cannot hurt those accumulators. They are probably 1/4” wall. A chain wrench or a heavy duty strap could do it. I would reseal all the orings then lock at the same time . Most of the times it’s the stinking port plugs that leak cause the orings dry out.

Find your self a kit like this to get the proper oring for the port fittings. The Chineseium super wrong durometer orings from harbor freight are worthless for shit like this.
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I had half-ass degreased it last night and wiped it down. I'm 100% sure it's coming from that threaded joint. The cop of the block and accumulator ball is completely dry and the bottom of the joint was wet and dripping down the ball.

I didn't realize that were that beefy. Sounds like a chain wrench will do the trick.


I just degreased and pressure washed it so waiting for it to drip dry.

I'm trying to not run it with the oil pressure sensor leaking as bad is it is. Gonna order a bsp plug set from Amazon so I can plug it off while I'm waiting for the new sensor to arrive....plus I'll need them for when I inevitably have to replace hoses.
 
Success. Couldn't find my chain wrench...if I even have one, but luckily the oil filter pliers got it off.
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Found the culprit. I'm guessing someone's been in here before. :shaking:
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So it's a square profile o-ring. Of course, I can't find a single reference to it online so zero chance of finding a part number without trying to find a dealer that will talk to me or paying $10 for 24 hours of access to the 777 site. :shaking:

I have an order going in to mcmaster today so I'm tempted to order the closest one I can find and see how long it holds.

OD is right around 1.635" and the ID +/- 1.407 and arund .08 thick.

dash 127 is 1.625, 1.4375 and .103
dash 029 is 1.625, 1.5 and .0625
dash 220 is 1.625, 1.375 and .125

127 looks like the best bet.


I do have a round 220 in my cheap HF assortment. How long do you think it'll last with that. :lmao:
 
Well, the answer is a round profile 220 WILL hold. How long is a question yet to be determined. :laughing:


We also learned that a 1/8 brass NPT plug with teflon tape will thread in to a 1/8 BPS hole enough to not leak oil.


Follow me for more unprofessional mechanic tips and tricks. :flipoff2:
 
I just drove it off the trailer and took it for a lap around the driveway in 4th gear and I was grinning like a retard the entire time. :laughing:


I am getting a trans warning light and the fluid looks low. This thing apparently takes Type F atf (old Ford shit) and I can't find it cheap in bulk anywhere. Looks like walmart actually carries in their store brand and it's about the best price I can find. Probably gonna have to hit a couple stores to get the 19 quarts I need. :shaking:
 
bgaidan said:
Success. Couldn't find my chain wrench...if I even have one, but luckily the oil filter pliers got it off.
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Found the culprit. I'm guessing someone's been in here before. :shaking:
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So it's a square profile o-ring. Of course, I can't find a single reference to it online so zero chance of finding a part number without trying to find a dealer that will talk to me or paying $10 for 24 hours of access to the 777 site. :shaking:

I have an order going in to mcmaster today so I'm tempted to order the closest one I can find and see how long it holds.

OD is right around 1.635" and the ID +/- 1.407 and arund .08 thick.

dash 127 is 1.625, 1.4375 and .103
dash 029 is 1.625, 1.5 and .0625
dash 220 is 1.625, 1.375 and .125

127 looks like the best bet.


I do have a round 220 in my cheap HF assortment. How long do you think it'll last with that. :lmao:
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Is that a separate brake fluid system or does it run normal hydraulic fluid?
 
Lbhsbz said:
Is that a separate brake fluid system or does it run normal hydraulic fluid?
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It's off the main hydraulic system. I don't think it's anything more goofy like main hydraulic over brake hydraulic.

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bgaidan said:
It's off the main hydraulic system. I don't think it's anything more goofy like main hydraulic over brake hydraulic.

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I stock square cut seals but all mine are in EPDM (for brake fluid)...sorry. They won't play nice with oil.
 
Lbhsbz said:
I stock square cut seals but all mine are in EPDM (for brake fluid)...sorry. They won't play nice with oil.
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The 220 round seems to be holding, but I don't expect it to last for long.

I'm ordering a bunch of shit from McMaster today any way so I threw the 220 square ones on there. Of course I have to get a pack of 50, but maybe I'll get lucky and they'll work....or at least work long enough that I'll eventually have to order some other shit from a JCB dealer and can add those on. Really trying to avoid having to find a dealer and pay for shipping for a single o-ring. :shaking:

And I have a couple hydraulic shops fairly close so I may swing by one of them this week and see if they have anything on hand.
 
bgaidan said:
The 220 round seems to be holding, but I don't expect it to last for long.

I'm ordering a bunch of shit from McMaster today any way so I threw the 220 square ones on there. Of course I have to get a pack of 50, but maybe I'll get lucky and they'll work....or at least work long enough that I'll eventually have to order some other shit from a JCB dealer and can add those on. Really trying to avoid having to find a dealer and pay for shipping for a single o-ring. :shaking:
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It's a static seal (nothing moving through it)...o-rings generally work very well in these applications.
 
Ugh. Spent about 45 minutes scraping and digging sludge out of the back compartment. There have obviously been a few leaks in this thing's past. Probably pulled a good 30-40 pounds of nasty out of it and that might 60-70% of it.
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I've got one hose that's leaking pretty bad and is currently the biggest contributor to the above. Of course I need to disconnect two other hoses to get to the bad one. :shaking: I'm waiting for my BSP plug and cap kit to come in so I can at least limit the amount of additional fluid add back there. Should be here on Tuesday and then I'll pull that hose and get one made at the hydraulic shop in town. This should be the last of any major leaks. There's one cylinder on the boom that's weeping more than I would like....I'm just going to get it all cleaned off and keep an eye on it to see how bad it really is.
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I'm pretty sure this little side compartment has no drain. There was a good 8" of oil impregnated slop in there that I just had to scoop out by hand. :barf: It's right below all the hoses above, so when any of them leak, it all ends up down there to mix with the other dirt and shit. Great design. :shaking:

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So have you changed your mind and want to buy the other one? With your Chinese excavator and saw mill flipping I figure you would be up for another basket case flip. Just think you will know this one well so the other one should be simple.
 
bgaidan said:
The 220 round seems to be holding, but I don't expect it to last for long.

I'm ordering a bunch of shit from McMaster today any way so I threw the 220 square ones on there. Of course I have to get a pack of 50, but maybe I'll get lucky and they'll work....or at least work long enough that I'll eventually have to order some other shit from a JCB dealer and can add those on. Really trying to avoid having to find a dealer and pay for shipping for a single o-ring. :shaking:

And I have a couple hydraulic shops fairly close so I may swing by one of them this week and see if they have anything on hand.
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What’s your problem with proper OEM parts? You know, the ones that always work without having to do a job 3 times? 🙄
 
IH Man said:
What’s your problem with proper OEM parts? You know, the ones that always work without having to do a job 3 times? 🙄
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Neat. Show me where I can easily order a single OEM o-ring for this without jumping through hoops just to find the part number? Or a dealer that's going to want to order and ship a single o-ring to me for anything resembling a reasonable price? Because the closest dealer to me is 3-4 hours away.
 
bgaidan said:
Neat. Show me where I can easily order a single OEM o-ring for this without jumping through hoops just to find the part number? Or a dealer that's going to want to order and ship a single o-ring to me for anything resembling a reasonable price? Because the closest dealer to me is 3-4 hours away.
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Sunbelt will order parts for you if there is one near you. Might be a $25 oring but it will be the correct one.
 
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