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Anyone know JCB telehandlers? Steering problems....

IH Man said:
Just because the dipshit at the parts counter ordered the wrong stuff doesn’t mean that every parts guy is an idiot, or that the OEM correct part doesn’t exist. Almost every dealer has at least one guy working at the counter you don’t want to deal with. Nothing wrong with asking for a different parts guy, or calling different dealers.
I dealt with dealers farther away just to get better service.
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No shit. Thats why I said "depending on the parts guy":homer:
 
IH Man said:
Did you check with a Ford dealer?
Online equipment parts are outrageous. Most often more than through a dealer, even if it is through a dealer. In other words, you could call the same dealer and order the parts for less. Equipment parts aren’t automotive parts. They would rather no one worked on their own stuff. Since few aftermarket parts exist, they try to push you to your local dealer. If you choose to buy online, they profit.
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I looked online at Messicks (who is usually decent for parts), my "local" NH dealer is 40 minutes away and their prices have been significantly higher than Messicks every time I have called (plus they add shipping to get it to them which Messicks does not).
It's probably all shipping from the same warehouse if they don't have it in stock anyway.
So I called the Admar place, ordered it and picked it up the next time I was down that way.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
I looked online at Messicks (who is usually decent for parts), my "local" NH dealer is 40 minutes away and their prices have been significantly higher than Messicks every time I have called (plus they add shipping to get it to them which Messicks does not).
It's probably all shipping from the same warehouse if they don't have it in stock anyway.
So I called the Admar place, ordered it and picked it up the next time I was down that way.

Aaron Z
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If you have a hydraulic shop nearby, cylinder seals are often 10% of the cost of OEM. Tear the cylinder down and take the seals to the shop. They can match them up. OEM just buys the seals from the company building the cylinder and marks them way up. This is one of the instances where buying more direct is cheaper, and you’re getting the same parts.
 
IH Man said:
If you have a hydraulic shop nearby, cylinder seals are often 10% of the cost of OEM. Tear the cylinder down and take the seals to the shop. They can match them up. OEM just buys the seals from the company building the cylinder and marks them way up. This is one of the instances where buying more direct is cheaper.
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True, if I were to do it now, I might.
IIRC it was under $25/cylinder so it wasn't worth digging too hard.

Aaron Z
 
bgaidan said:
Ugh. Spent about 45 minutes scraping and digging sludge out of the back compartment. There have obviously been a few leaks in this thing's past. Probably pulled a good 30-40 pounds of nasty out of it and that might 60-70% of it.
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I've got one hose that's leaking pretty bad and is currently the biggest contributor to the above. Of course I need to disconnect two other hoses to get to the bad one. :shaking: I'm waiting for my BSP plug and cap kit to come in so I can at least limit the amount of additional fluid add back there. Should be here on Tuesday and then I'll pull that hose and get one made at the hydraulic shop in town. This should be the last of any major leaks. There's one cylinder on the boom that's weeping more than I would like....I'm just going to get it all cleaned off and keep an eye on it to see how bad it really is.
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I'm pretty sure this little side compartment has no drain. There was a good 8" of oil impregnated slop in there that I just had to scoop out by hand. :barf: It's right below all the hoses above, so when any of them leak, it all ends up down there to mix with the other dirt and shit. Great design. :shaking:

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At least you didn't find the dead mechanic in there...
 
bgaidan said:
Yeah....still doesn't jive with anything. And these are British and everything seems to be standard thread on it so I wouldn't expect the o-rings to be metric.

I do have one of these fancy gadgets and it jives with the -220 I came up with measuring by hand. I'm just not confident it's accurate on square profile rings. Biggest things I see is that I'm not finding anything standard with the same thickness....but it's also used so going thicker and expecting crush/stretch is probably the way to go.



I'll bring the old one with me when I go to get the new hose made and see what they can pull out of their collection.
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What makes you think the square profile partially ripped up one is correct to begin with and not some random POS the dead guy's replacement slapped in there? :laughing:

I'm with you, throw in whatever works until it doesn't.
 
FML. :shaking:

Got the BSP caps and plugs in yesterday and got the hoses and disconnected on the upper end easily.

But as it turns out, where I thought the hoses all along the inside of the frame rail to the main valve body, I now discovered that the one I need to replace actually runs inside the frame for like 3' along with 4 or 5 others.


Somewhere way back there it dives in to the frame with zero way to reach it. The hose right in the middle is the one that needs to go.
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And then behind this cluster, there's a opening in the frame where it and others come back out.
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And then they go another couple feet forward to the main control valves.
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I think my best bet at this point is going to be to try to identify what exactly that line is for. It's part of the pair that go in to the boom, so I'm fairly certain it's for the boom extension. The other 4 go off the the right side of the boom and lay in the channel and are for the carriage tilt and aux. hyrdos.

Hopefully once I determine it's function, I can then figure out which connection it is on the valve block. I'm sure it'll be one on the top that I can't fucking reach without dropping the whole valve assembly. :shaking:

I don't see any way to snake that old line out of the frame without disconnecting and pulling a bunch of other lines to make access. I think if I can identify the connection on the valve body, I'm just going to reroute the hose on the other side of the bulkhead. Shouldn't even need to change its length or anything.


I think I can squeeze it here next to the radiator, which is where the lines from the pump to the hydro. cooler run and they all end up back near that big bundle in the first pic.
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aczlan said:
Time to hit up Discount Hydraulic Hose and replace the whole bundle...

Does one end have a straight fitting on it? Use a union and pull the new hose in with the old one (or pull a rope in with a plug in the old one and pull the new one in with a rope)?

Aaron Z
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Problem with pulling a new one is I'm not even sure which one on the other end I'm pulling. And they're so fucking tight that I'm not convinced I could fish a single one through. The valve end has a 90 and the upper end only has a slight bend on it is I could probably pull by that. Doubtful there's enough room to fit a rope though...I'd probably have to take a spare cap and weld a pulling eye on it and hope.

Probably looking at well over $1k to do them all. Really not in the budget at the moment. Most of them look like they've already been done at some point.

The one with blue is the partner to the one I need to do. It's obviously pretty new and it was NOT routed through the frame. They managed to wedge it through an opening just the to the of the frame opening...but I don't think there's room for another one there.
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OK, as usual, I was making this harder than it needs to be. :laughing:

The line with the blue writing goes to this port on the valve (red circle). Since it's paired with the line I'm replacing, it stands to reason that my line is the one on top of of the valve. Still gonna be a bitch to pull, but at least I know I'm pulling on the right one and not risking fucking up another line.

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At least it's the front most valve and I can actually reach it without tearing the whole valve set out. I was really expecting it to be one of the once on the top in the middle of the whole thing. :shaking:
 
Steve300xcw said:
Weld some washers to your caps. Use that to drag a pull cord through that mess when you pull the hose. Then pull the new one back through
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Yep, that's the plan. I'm gonna go full retard and use 1/8" aircraft cable so I don't snap a rope half-pull and have to fish a new one through. :laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
Or just union the new hose to the old one if the ends are the same.
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I considered that, but I'm going to need to bring the old one in so I can be 100% sure they make the new one to match. Too hard to measure the exact length and not a lot of room to hide excess if it's too long.
 
bgaidan said:
OK, as usual, I was making this harder than it needs to be. :laughing:
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None of us on here have EVER been accused of that...
bgaidan said:
The line with the blue writing goes to this port on the valve (red circle). Since it's paired with the line I'm replacing, it stands to reason that my line is the one on top of of the valve. Still gonna be a bitch to pull, but at least I know I'm pulling on the right one and not risking fucking up another line.
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So did they pull out the old line?
Hopefully if you have two lines removed from where they used to run you can squeak one back in...

Steve300xcw said:
That doesnt mean you are goona fish a hose through
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There looks to be plenty of leakage to lubricate the hose going out.
Coming back in maybe another story...

Aaron Z
 
Success.....at least the start of success! :laughing:

Managed to get the old line pulled out. Took a bit of finagling to get the far end fitting to fit through some restriction along the way, but a couple bank and forth tugs finally got it through. Not super optimistic about the new one pulling back through easily.

I did pull a piece of string line through with it that I can use to pull a heavier cable back for the final pull. :smokin:

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aczlan said:
So did they pull out the old line?
Hopefully if you have two lines removed from where they used to run you can squeak one back in...
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I don't see anything that looks like the old line. There is one random line that looks like it's plugged with something and just hanging there, but I don't think it's on this route.


Gonna go bring the old one by the hydraulic shop to get a new one made and see what kind of random fittings they have laying around that I can use to make a pulling head.
 
bgaidan said:
Success.....at least the start of success! :laughing:

Managed to get the old line pulled out. Took a bit of finagling to get the far end fitting to fit through some restriction along the way, but a couple bank and forth tugs finally got it through. Not super optimistic about the new one pulling back through easily.

I did pull a piece of string line through with it that I can use to pull a heavier cable back for the final pull. :smokin:

1710873181949.png




I don't see anything that looks like the old line. There is one random line that looks like it's plugged with something and just hanging there, but I don't think it's on this route.


Gonna go bring the old one by the hydraulic shop to get a new one made and see what kind of random fittings they have laying around that I can use to make a pulling head.
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Whatever you do to attach it to the pulling line, use duct tape or plastic to put a funnel shape on the end you’re pulling back in. Blunt ends hang up. With a semi flexible pointy end you can tug it back and forth and get it through just about anything.
 
I know how my luck is. And the chances of pulling that many cable loops through a ball of shit without hanging up is pretty low:laughing:
 
aczlan said:
Or a pulling basket taped on, no need to mess with an adapter that way: Amazon.com
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Aaron Z
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I thought about trying one of those but a) I couldn't get it here until Friday and b) I don't think it's work great going over the fitting....plus snags.

But I'm also concerned about pulling directly on the fitting and fucking it up. I think I'm going to try to choke the hose itself and then duck tape the shit out of it to help keep it from slipping.


Good news is, $170 later I have a new hose. I usually use NAPA, but there's a truck body shop fairly close that does hoses and I figured they'd be cheaper. Apparently not. :shaking:

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