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Anyone know JCB telehandlers? Steering problems....

Update time.

I gave up on rebuilding the tilt cylinder for the time being. The gland wouldn't budge with the 36" pipe wrench and a 5' cheater. I did make another split wrench on the CNC, but haven't had a chance to weld the clamping hardware on it yet. I'll get back to it eventually.

But what did finally come in are the adapter plates I ordered to make the SSQA carriage. I couldn't find anyone locally that could plasma 1" but did find someone on ebay that was selling plates for a different model. I sent him my CAD file and he was able to cut them out. $580 for two pairs of plates wasn't too bad. Got an extra set in case I fuck up or want to make another dedicated attachment down the road.
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Started doing a bit of mock up. I found some 2x3 and 3x3 tubing at the scrap yard this morning. Also have some 2x4 left from a previous haul.
This is close to what I'll end up doing. I'll use a piece of the 2x3 where the wood 2x4 is in the pic. That'll give me just enough clearance over the latch hardware and keep everything as tight as possible to the frame. I'll add gussets and bracing as well.
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Only downside of this is that I won't be able to remove the bolt that holds the arm in and possible may not be able to remove the arm itself even if the bolt was out. I might notch out the cross bar with a piece of tube to allow the bolt to come out. But that still may not let me get the handle itself off. Gonna stare at it for a while and see if I come up with a better idea.
 
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While you're at it, make that thing do as many tricks as possible. It's nice having tools and rigging at hand up front.

My skid-steer forks look like a trucker cab shield with all the chains and slings and shit hanging off it. There's no room on a skid steer for a junk box (maybe the roof if you don't need clearance).

I always liked how farm tractors had the big tubing crossmember on the loader boom, good place to store chains and maybe a prybar and hammer and adjustable wrench.

Obviously keep in mind shit falling off when you hit a bump.

This might be a good spot for a 2 inch receiver that you could keep a hitch permanently. Looks like you'd have the clearance to the telehandler boom.

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Thinking about the 2 inch receiver some more.

Probably better to offset it to the driver's side so you can actually see the ball. Or do multiple so you've got options.

Right not I'm using my skid steer as a brick to hold a chain vise for hand pipe threading. Adjust forks wherever is comfortable...
 
I was actually thinking about the receiver last night. Don't think I can do it where you show it because it'll interfere with the frame, but I do plan to find a place to put at least one receiver tube as well as a couple of 3/8" weld-on chain hooks.


I'll have to see once I have the cross bars tacked on, but I don't think the 2" tube will fit here, but I'm sure I can find a spot or two where it will work.
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Those pins look the same distance from the flats of your 1 inch brackets. When the original fork carriage is mounted, are the uprights of the forks also plumb with those pins?

Skid steers have some angle between the forks and the quick-tach. If you put your quick-tach on plumb with those pins you might not be happy with the range of motion.

You should park on level ground and stick an angle indicator on those flats and see how far back and how far forward that thing will tilt.

I'm pretty sure I measured the skid steer quick-tach to fork angle in the homemade attachments thread.
 
Got it tacked together and first impression is that it's going to work perfectly. Probably going to add a couple more gussets. I don't like how I had to basically cantilever the latch plates from the side like that, but really the only way I could do it. Gonna add a couple small struts that should stiffen it up without interfering with the handles.
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This is full tilt back. Probably about twice the angle the stock carriage could tilt to.
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And still plenty of forward tilt. I'll probably go grab the bucket and make sure it tilts far enough forward with that to fully dump, but I'm pretty sure it'll be fine.
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Those pins look the same distance from the flats of your 1 inch brackets. When the original fork carriage is mounted, are the uprights of the forks also plumb with those pins?

Skid steers have some angle between the forks and the quick-tach. If you put your quick-tach on plumb with those pins you might not be happy with the range of motion.

You should park on level ground and stick an angle indicator on those flats and see how far back and how far forward that thing will tilt.

I'm pretty sure I measured the skid steer quick-tach to fork angle in the homemade attachments thread.

You're missing the fact that in the stock configuration, when the carriage is flat (forks are level), the pines are about 4.5" offset horizontally. I made them aligned vertically with no offset, which effectively kicked the bottom of the carriage out by at least that 4.5" and gave me more rearward tilt.

This was the stock carriage at full tilt. Red line is pin to pin.
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I have some room to play with on the plates and if I wanted to adjust the angle, I could cut the tacks and throw them in the mill and remove some material to put an angle on them.....but I'm pretty sure it's going to work the way I have it.
 
Those pins look the same distance from the flats of your 1 inch brackets. When the original fork carriage is mounted, are the uprights of the forks also plumb with those pins?

You're missing the fact that in the stock configuration, when the carriage is flat (forks are level), the pines are about 4.5" offset horizontally.

I didn't miss shit.

:flipoff2:

Looks good.

Don't forget that those pics are with the boom horizontal. Once that boom is vertical you might want that angle back.....
 
Don't forget that those pics are with the boom horizontal. Once that boom is vertical you might want that angle back.....
The only time I've ever seen someone want to dump at full height was when they were using a lull to make 3-story high snow banks. If he winds up with that problem where he lives something else is wrong. :laughing:
 
Well that escalated quickly....

Cruising the scrap yard and I spy with my little eye...
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The ignition switch has been pulled out and is hanging under the dash. Hmm. I used my knife and jumped the ignition terminal and got power to the dash. Pulled the wires off the terminals and powered ignition and jumped the starter wire and it cranked right up on the first turn. Double hmm. All functions teem to work, including trans and brakes.

So I went up to the office and talked to the guy that runs the place. $7k and a phone call later, I I had it loaded on a haul truck on it's way to my house. Cost another $608 for the haul. :shaking:

22,480lbs :smokin:
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I couldn't figure out why it was there at first. The fork and support bar were obviously heavily tweaked. I can get another pair of forks from the same yard for a couple hundred bucks and just need to source the ~1-1/4" round bar. No problem there.
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And then I noticed it. I guess I couldn't see this from the seat when I quickly ran the boom out a the yard. This, paired with the tweaked forks tells a story. Perhaps a moderately high speed collision? Or someone forgot to set the parking brake on a hill? :shaking:
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So I was kind of disappointed in myself for missing that glaringly obvious damage. It started out as a really, really smoking deal and now it's just kind of a smoking-ish deal. I have not problem running it like that, but it majorly hurts the resale value. Without that damage, auction prices are in the $18k+ range. With the damage, I could still probably get $10-12k out of it. The 844 was a really, really popular machine so I'm going to put some feelers out and keep my eye out for one getting parted out and see if I can pick up a new boom segment if I can find one cheap enough. May also look in to heat straightening, but I have no idea where to start. I know at one of my old jobs we had a very new hydraulic rough terrain crane that's boom got dented for a load hitting it and we had a company come out and heat it out. Probably not cost effective to have a pro do it on something like this though...

The good side is the engine really strong, has very little blow by and zero leaks. Meter shows about 3,400 hours, which looks to be accurate. Overall, the hydraulics look good too. Only one of the chassis tilt cylinders is weeping a tad and all the others look strong. There's one dripping leak on one of the boom lines that appears to be just fittings, and a slight drip from the bottom of the hydraulic tank that looks like it's just a clamp on the return line.
Overall in surprisingly good condition and worth fixing.
 
Well that escalated quickly....

Cruising the scrap yard and I spy with my little eye...
1725565667105.png


The ignition switch has been pulled out and is hanging under the dash. Hmm. I used my knife and jumped the ignition terminal and got power to the dash. Pulled the wires off the terminals and powered ignition and jumped the starter wire and it cranked right up on the first turn. Double hmm. All functions teem to work, including trans and brakes.

So I went up to the office and talked to the guy that runs the place. $7k and a phone call later, I I had it loaded on a haul truck on it's way to my house. Cost another $608 for the haul. :shaking:

22,480lbs :smokin:
1725565898719.png


I couldn't figure out why it was there at first. The fork and support bar were obviously heavily tweaked. I can get another pair of forks from the same yard for a couple hundred bucks and just need to source the ~1-1/4" round bar. No problem there.
1725566011488.png


And then I noticed it. I guess I couldn't see this from the seat when I quickly ran the boom out a the yard. This, paired with the tweaked forks tells a story. Perhaps a moderately high speed collision? Or someone forgot to set the parking brake on a hill? :shaking:
1725566158247.png

1725566172302.png



So I was kind of disappointed in myself for missing that glaringly obvious damage. It started out as a really, really smoking deal and now it's just kind of a smoking-ish deal. I have not problem running it like that, but it majorly hurts the resale value. Without that damage, auction prices are in the $18k+ range. With the damage, I could still probably get $10-12k out of it. The 844 was a really, really popular machine so I'm going to put some feelers out and keep my eye out for one getting parted out and see if I can pick up a new boom segment if I can find one cheap enough. May also look in to heat straightening, but I have no idea where to start. I know at one of my old jobs we had a very new hydraulic rough terrain crane that's boom got dented for a load hitting it and we had a company come out and heat it out. Probably not cost effective to have a pro do it on something like this though...

The good side is the engine really strong, has very little blow by and zero leaks. Meter shows about 3,400 hours, which looks to be accurate. Overall, the hydraulics look good too. Only one of the chassis tilt cylinders is weeping a tad and all the others look strong. There's one dripping leak on one of the boom lines that appears to be just fittings, and a slight drip from the bottom of the hydraulic tank that looks like it's just a clamp on the return line.
Overall in surprisingly good condition and worth fixing.
...and Panzer with the "flame straightening book" in 3....2.....1.........



That's a good buy for sure, even with the damage. Still a capable, useful machine even if you abandoned the telescopic part and it was just a loader. You're a glutton for punishment though...:lmao:
 
Hell yeah, fresh meat to continue the thread
...and Panzer with the "flame straightening book" in 3....2.....1.........



That's a good buy for sure, even with the damage. Still a capable, useful machine even if you abandoned the telescopic part and it was just a loader. You're a glutton for punishment though...:lmao:

I spend money for the entertainment of GCC. :shaking:

I think it could be flame straightened, but preferably by someone that knows what they're doing. That's not me. :laughing:

The dollar signs in my eyes kind of fizzled when I got home and saw that. Original plan was to just do filters and fluids on it and flip it for $15-20k. I may still throw it on FB for $12k as-is and see if I can make some quick low effort cash.

I gotta go pull the S/N and figure out exactly what it is. Sticker says 844B but looking at auction listings, the boom looks more like a C. Most of the B's have more windows in the main boom. But I did see a couple '95 B's that look like this. Gonna have to dig in to the models and see what parts are common between them.
 
I do like this.....the oil filter is the breather for the hydraulic tank. There's just a JIC fitting under there that the filter just happened to have the same threads. :laughing: And it's apparently not working very well because the end of the tank was actually bowed out a bit after running it and it popped back in as the pressure released. Probably the source of the leak on the lower pickup line.

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I do like this.....the oil filter is the breather for the hydraulic tank. There's just a JIC fitting under there that the filter just happened to have the same threads. :laughing: And it's apparently not working very well because the end of the tank was actually bowed out a bit after running it and it popped back in as the pressure released. Probably the source of the leak on the lower pickup line.

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Anti-drainback valve on the filter
 
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Common. Probably never been changed and packed with dirt. Nobody ever pays any mind to them.
 
I do like this.....the oil filter is the breather for the hydraulic tank. There's just a JIC fitting under there that the filter just happened to have the same threads. :laughing: And it's apparently not working very well because the end of the tank was actually bowed out a bit after running it and it popped back in as the pressure released. Probably the source of the leak on the lower pickup line.

1725574882184.png

Filter would be running in reverse in that application.

Someone might have stuck one with an anti-drainback valve on there.:laughing:

...and Panzer with the "flame straightening book" in 3....2.....1.........

:laughing:


Take it apart, heat it, beat it, grind it, weld it and plate it.

You've taken one apart. How hard can a bigger one be? :flipoff2:
 
Any luck on finding a new/replacement boom?
Not yet. Haven't really tried that hard. Couple junk yards have parts machines, but they're all on the west coast and prices seemed high for the other parts they had listed. Not in a rush and I have no problem running it as it is for now. Gonna set some auction alerts and hope a parts machine comes up. Ideally something that had an engine fire or something for a grand or two that nobody else wants to deal with,
 

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Cheap tele close to you, don’t know if boom will work but looks like a solid machine less the tranny. 4b power plant is worth at least 2-3k.
 
Depending on if the "transmission is gone" means it's physically gone or just blown up, that's a decent deal. Probably worth $20k+ running. If you could get a replacement or rebuilt the trans for a few grand, easily double your money. I don't have the time or funds to take on another one though. :laughing:
 
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