Anyone know JCB telehandlers? Steering problems....

[arse_sidewards]

Delete everything below red line. Burn in holes for 1" bolts at blue circles

Skip the flat bar. Stick a drop of I-beam (a heavy W4 or W6 will probably do) on your Bridgeport and run a face mill down the web to make a flat, punch six matching holes and then cut the I-beam in half down the middle resulting in the same overall T shape as the green shit pictured.

 

[ThePanzerFuhrer]

Delete everything below red line. Burn in holes for 1" bolts at blue circles

Skip the flat bar. Stick a drop of I-beam (a heavy W4 or W6 will probably do) on your Bridgeport and run a face mill down the web to make a flat, punch six matching holes and then cut the I-beam in half down the middle resulting in the same overall T shape as the green shit pictured.

I beam is no where near stiff enough to do like you suggested. Going from a solid 1” + thick hook to a 1/2 ibeam web is no good.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I beam is no where near stiff enough to do like you suggested. Going from a solid 1” hook to a 1/2 ibeam web is no good.

Then up the thickness or weld a flat stock on the side so that the bolts are in double shear and you get less bending and more compression/tension Lots of options to skin that cat. There's no reason to be making 2ft long segments of T-shaped stock though unless you got a pile of flat bar around and really like welding.

But at the end of the day:

this thing is only rated for 4.4k lbs.

 

[arse_sidewards]

But I guess once you start adding flat stock it might just be cheaper to do the whole thing in 1" and pay for shipping.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

The whole point of SSQA is that everything else uses SSQA. Making your own home brew solution that nothing uses is a massive waste of time and material.

If you're replying to me, you missed my point.

I'm not saying to make some hack-fuck oddball shit. I'm saying you could eliminate the fancy over center handles and springs of conventional SSQA if you really wanted to be cheap.

I also didn't say it would be worth it, and I also didn't say it's what I would do.

 

[bgaidan]

If you're replying to me, you missed my point.

I'm not saying to make some hack-fuck oddball shit. I'm saying you could eliminate the fancy over center handles and springs of conventional SSQA if you really wanted to be cheap.

I also didn't say it would be worth it, and I also didn't say it's what I would do.

The adapter plates can be picked up for $80 a pair. I'd be hard pressed to make anything decent and reliable for much less than that. Plus I'd eventually like to do a hydraulic or electric actuator on them, which is easy with the standard handles.

 

[2big bronco]

Search your local fbmp for a trench plate and burn it out with a torch

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

The adapter plates can be picked up for $80 a pair. I'd be hard pressed to make anything decent and reliable for much less than that. Plus I'd eventually like to do a hydraulic or electric actuator on them, which is easy with the standard handles.

Just looked them up.

Buncha knuckledraggers on amazon bitching because they're not strong enough.
It's so impressive how stupid some people are.

 

[bgaidan]

Just looked them up.

Buncha knuckledraggers on amazon bitching because they're not strong enough.
It's so impressive how stupid some people are.

Holy shit. Its things like that that make my feel better about my booty fab work.



This is the one I built for my little tractor a few years ago. Some of the welds weren't even completely shitty.

 

[bgaidan]

Ugghh.....

I figured out the other day that the leak that I though was that tee fitting was actually just dripping from above, coming from the boom extension cylinder and dripping down the boom and in to the back compartment. It was just in the perfect spot that you couldn't see it from any angle from the outside.

So I ordered seal kits for the extension and compensation cylinders. I was hoping I could put the extension one off for a few months, but it decided to let go while I was using it yesterday. Waaay more oil in the back compartment and I was leaving a trail down the driveway. Motherfucker.

Luckily the seal kits are relatively cheap. I think it was like $160 ship for both of these.

Started going through the manual. For some reason I was thinking I had to pull the boom apart and remove the cylinder through the front, but after looking, apparently you pull all the hoses and slide it out from the rear.

I wish I could tell how long the actually cylinder body is. I'd almost rather pull the boom extension apart and leave the cylinder body in place and just pull the rod out through the front of the machine.....but I'm not positive that the cylinder body sticks out far enough past the end of the main boom sections to be able to reach the nut though.

Seems like that would a bit easier than trying to manage that rear pin and making a dummy pin to keep the whole boom from dropping.

 

[bgaidan]

Hmmmm......

Not the exact same as my machine, but pretty close. On this one, you'd have enough room to reach the gland nut with the boom removed. Mine doesn't have the windows or anything at the end of the boom to see in side like this on though, so I can't really know for sure where the end of the body is like they could.



Mine doesn't have have the carriage hoses in the boom like this one - they're outboard in a channel on the side of the boom. I had to think about it for a minute....almost convinced myself that it could be hoses leaking, but nope, definitely the cylinder.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

Hmmmm......

Not the exact same as my machine, but pretty close. On this one, you'd have enough room to reach the gland nut with the boom removed. Mine doesn't have the windows or anything at the end of the boom to see in side like this on though, so I can't really know for sure where the end of the body is like they could.

doesn't have the windows-------- yet

Also---that guy's youtube channel, "Professional Strruggler"
I'm gonna use that.

 

[bgaidan]

doesn't have the windows-------- yet

Also---that guy's youtube channel, "Professional Strruggler"
I'm gonna use that.

I know. I'd never seen any of his stuff before, but I like him.


Looking at mine, I think it's too close to call and I'm still torn at which way to tackle it. I'd strongly prefer to not have to pull the whole cylinder if I could do it from the front, but I'd also hate to pull the boom and find out I can't do it!


I figure the rod eye is probably a tad bigger than the diameter of that outer boss, so that would probably put the gland nut about the same location as the one in the video. As long as the nut isn't behind the upper face of the boom opening so I could get a wrench straight on it, I think it'd be doable.

 

[bgaidan]

And now matter which way it's done, I'm a little confused on how you get the rod eye to line up to reinstall the front pin when you put it back together. Seems like the rod would sit on the bottom of the boom and there's zero access to reach in to pick up up to line it up with the hole. Unless there's a guide block or something in there that helps push it up in to alignment.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

And now matter which way it's done, I'm a little confused on how you get the rod eye to line up to reinstall the front pin when you put it back together. Seems like the rod would sit on the bottom of the boom and there's zero access to reach in to pick up up to line it up with the hole. Unless there's a guide block or something in there that helps push it up in to alignment.

You hang the machine vertical. Duh.

Sorry. I know that's not helpful.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

For a helpful post:

Worst case scenerio, if the gland nut is recessed into the boom, you could always make a split deep socket.

Take an impact socket and bandsaw it in half, then make it as long as you want with pipe cut in half. Add flanges to both sides of the assembly so you can bolt it back together around the rod. Voila, deep socket around the rod.

Or the gland nut might be the spanner pin style or ???

Whatever it is you should be able to build a tool to get at it. On the other hand, the manual says do it that way for a reason? That dummy pin only has to go in deep enough from one side to catch one side of the boom pivot. Easier thing to make than my contraption.

 

[bgaidan]

For a helpful post:

Worst case scenerio, if the gland nut is recessed into the boom, you could always make a split deep socket.

Take an impact socket and bandsaw it in half, then make it as long as you want with pipe cut in half. Add flanges to both sides of the assembly so you can bolt it back together around the rod. Voila, deep socket around the rod.

Or the gland nut might be the spanner pin style or ???

Whatever it is you should be able to build a tool to get at it. On the other hand, the manual says do it that way for a reason? That dummy pin only has to go in deep enough from one side to catch one side of the boom pivot. Easier thing to make than my contraption.

Not sure how big the nut is on the extension cylinder, but the one on the comp. cylinder was ~2-5/8" and they would be an expensive one-use socket! Luckily I found a goofy pipe-wrench like adjustable wrench on amazon that's a perfect fit.

The problem I see with the rear pin is not only do I need to make a dummy pin, which is easy enough and a deep impact socket may actually work there, but I'll also need to make s jit to draw out the pin from the other side as the dummy pin will prevent me from driving it through from the side I'm freeing up. And I can almost guarantee that the pin will be mostly seized and put up a fight.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

Not sure how big the nut is on the extension cylinder, but the one on the comp. cylinder was ~2-5/8" and they would be an expensive one-use socket! Luckily I found a goofy pipe-wrench like adjustable wrench on amazon that's a perfect fit.

The problem I see with the rear pin is not only do I need to make a dummy pin, which is easy enough and a deep impact socket may actually work there, but I'll also need to make s jit to draw out the pin from the other side as the dummy pin will prevent me from driving it through from the side I'm freeing up. And I can almost guarantee that the pin will be mostly seized and put up a fight.

Use tubing (something hollow) for the dummy pin, and you can keep smashing the real pin out.

Also, the "cut up socket" could simply be a circle of 1/2 inch plate with a hex cut of the middle.

Link to the amazon wrench?

 

[bgaidan]

Use tubing (something hollow) for the dummy pin, and you can keep smashing the real pin out.

Also, the "cut up socket" could simply be a circle of 1/2 inch plate with a hex cut of the middle.

Link to the amazon wrench?

This one.

Amazon.com

That was the cheapest version I could find with Prime. I figured I'd either snap the handle off immediately or it would half-ass work. It just barely opened up big enough to the ~66mm nut. I really didn't want to tear up the nut with a regular pipe wrench so I figured this was worth a shot.

Surprisingly, the nut wasn't all the tight. I had to use a 4' cheaper pipe on it, but that was mostly because of the awkward angle I had to set it at.


Now the rod nuts on the other hand....I've seen some videos of people fighting to get those things off. Hopefully they're small enough that I have an impact socket that will work on them.

 

[redneckengineered]

Hmmmm......

Not the exact same as my machine, but pretty close. On this one, you'd have enough room to reach the gland nut with the boom removed. Mine doesn't have the windows or anything at the end of the boom to see in side like this on though, so I can't really know for sure where the end of the body is like they could.



Mine doesn't have have the carriage hoses in the boom like this one - they're outboard in a channel on the side of the boom. I had to think about it for a minute....almost convinced myself that it could be hoses leaking, but nope, definitely the cylinder.

That dude is hilarious. I thought I was watching a Pikey from the movie Snatch for a minute. I lost it when he started petting his dog with his black grease covered hand

 

[bgaidan]

How it started.....

How it's going....

Fucking thing wouldn't budge at first. I hit it with a little heat with the mapp torch and then whaled on it with the 12 lb sledge and finally got it to go about 1/4".

I hit it so much that I mushroomed that tapered end and by the time I had moved it enough to get it flush, I was afraid I had deformed it too much that it was going to get really stuck if I kept pushing it through.

I had to unbolt the trunion on the tilt cylinder so I could lay the cylinder down to get enough room to hit it from the other side. Managed to drive it back through until that side was flush, but it was still taking a lot of force.

I started thinking that a big ball joint press would be perfect. The regular chi-com one is about 6" too small. Then 💡 idea for the h-frame came in. I was putting every bit of those 20 Chinese tons in to it and it wasn't budging. I horseshoed a 1" high strength bolt and then deformed the socket you see in the pic.

Fucking hell.


Guess tomorrow I need to see if there's any gas in the oxy-acetylene bottles that I have used in like 15 years and break out the real heat. And I'm gonna have to make a handled drift so I can get someone to hold it for me while I smack it with the big sledge. No way I'm going to budge it with the little 5lb beater one handed.

 

[Dethmachinefab]

I see the top of your press isn't all smashed yet, so obviously your not committed enough.

 

[bgaidan]

I see the top of your press isn't all smashed yet, so obviously your not committed enough.

I had the sledge in hand and gently put it down and walked away after deciding I don't want to spend another $250 to replace the press.

You can see the top plate of the press frame arching. I felt like I was one pump away from something letting go and killing me, or worse.


But, after posting that I went back and smacked it some more and I have it moving somewhat easily back and forth. I need to throw together a drift and holder and clean up the pin ends one more time and I think it'll come out.

Only fear I have is that it might be seized in the rod eye and Im just moving the rod back and forth inside the boom.

 

[70 tp]

Just when I think I know how to hammer something apart, you guys show me how I need to think outside the box more . But the oxy acet rosebud woulda came out long ago. Can’t be stuck when it’s a liquid. And truly destroyed. The whole shop press out there is genius

 

[D Nelly]

Our record for pin antics was a 90 pound jackhammer being held/pushed in place with the backhoe. Hammer on metal backed against a loader bucket is just as loud as you'd think it is.

 

[bgaidan]

Our record for pin antics was a 90 pound jackhammer being held/pushed in place with the backhoe. Hammer on metal backed against a loader bucket is just as loud as you'd think it is.

Well shit. Intrusive thoughts have now entered the chat. You just made me remember I have a hammer for my little 1 ton Chinese excavator.

 

[ThePanzerFuhrer]

Oxy lance and be done. I don’t have the time to fuck around with stuck pins.

Other option is to hang a 2” bar 4-5’ long like an old time battering ram. Much easier to get a huge blow to hit the target when all you have to do is rock it back and forth. Much easier on the hands arms and back as well.

 

[bgaidan]

Oxy lance and be done. I don’t have the time to fuck around with stuck pins.

Other option is to hang a 2” bar 4-5’ long like an old time battering ram. Much easier to get a huge blow to hit the target when all you have to do is rock it back and forth. Much easier on the hands arms and back as well.

I'd like to subscribe to your newsletter.


Seriously, never thought of hanging a bar from the forklift. I have a plan.

 

[ThePanzerFuhrer]

I'd like to subscribe to your newsletter.


Seriously, never thought of hanging a bar from the forklift. I have a plan.

Yeah works like a champ. However me and the boys usually just have one guy on the stinking end aiming and the other guys giving the big hits. We have a 5’ long 2 15/16” shaft that is all grease covered from doing this. It’s its only job.

I hate pounding pins out.

 

[ThePanzerFuhrer]

Last option is to tack weld a 4’ long tube centered on the pin boss. Hold up the other end of tube with forklift and stick the bar stock inside as a instu makeshift slide hammer. This way you can use a 8’ long piece to get big hits. Just make sure your banging piece is longer than tube. This will clean the skin off your hands if it hits the tube as you are swearing and slamming the bar as hard as possible.