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Anyone know JCB telehandlers? Steering problems....

ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Last option is to tack weld a 4’ long tube centered on the pin boss. Hold up the other end of tube with forklift and stick the bar stock inside as a instu makeshift slide hammer. This way you can use a 8’ long piece to get big hits. Just make sure your banging piece is longer than tube. This will clean the skin off your hands if it hits the tube as you are swearing and slamming the bar as hard as possible.
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I gotta raid my stock rack tomorrow and see what I have on hand. I know I have some 1.25" stress proof , but I'd rather not fuck that up on this little shit show. Might need to put this project on hold until I can hit the scrap yard next week.
 
If you can drill the center out of the pin and get a hollow ram Porto power jack and weld to one side and pulll the pin out , it will come. Pushing a pin swells it up. I have a hallow jack that will accept a 1.5” pin. I would weld a piece of 1.5” (the good stuff, not sure the grade) black all thread to the pin with some 7018 and pull it out . Or just drill the pin out big enough that it can collapse but not all the way through and then push it from inside where the hole stops. Can you reach in from the rear and sawzall the pin off both sides of the ram?
 
Well, this thing is just a fucking nightmare. :shaking:


I can walk the pin back and forth about 1/4 by smacking it from either side. Tried hanging a bar from the forklift, but that wasn't getting me anywhere. Tried welding a pice of tube as a guide and then smacked this shit out of it with this 1" bolt and after at least a dozen hard hits it hasn't budged at all.
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I have a bad feeling that the pin may be seized in the rod eye and the little bit of movement I'm getting is just the rod moving back and forth inside the boom. There's zero access to see what's going in inside.

May dig out the torch and see if that'll do anything. If it really is seized in the rod, I doubt I'll be able to get enough heat that far in to it to make a difference.

Probably gonna have to break out the mag drill and hope I can get deep enough to relieve a little pressure from both sides.


:mad3::mad3::mad3:
 
Mag drill abuse warning :flipoff2:


Tried lots of heat this morning and still no movey. I'm angry and I don't trush my torch skills to try to burn it out without fucking up more than just the pin, so drill it is.

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I ran a 1/4" pilot a good 6 ort 7" in, which is more than half way. The a 1/2" probably 5" and now I've made it the full depth of this 1-1/8". I did my best to ignore the "Max Drill DIa. 1/2" " sticker on the drill base. :laughing: The little evolution really didn't like that big bit. I could push on the back enough to slow it down and get a decent chip, but it was not happy. Only thermal'd out once and then one more time when I ran out of flute on the big bit and the fucker seized right the fuck up. The motor smelled a little burny.

Of course I also couldn't get the drill on center because of the big weld around the bushing so I had to cobble up a riser out of flat bar to just barely get it there. :shaking:


May try heat again tomorrow and see if there's enough material relieved to let it move. Otherwise, I'll probably have to do the same thing on the other side.



I really hope I can get to the gland by removing the boom extension because the though of having to fuck with the big pin in the back is making me want to start this thing up an suck on the exhaust pipe.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Oxy lance :lmao:. Would have got hole punched in 30 secs :smokin:
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I do not have. 😢


Every one of those silver sharpie marks equals about 4 HARD hits. At first I was just seeing if/how much it was moving. Then it turned in to a game. I'm fucking sore. :shaking:



Edit: Just looked for a "cheap" lance. Apparently there's no such thing. Looks like a solid grand for the starter kit. Fuck me. No Vevor or Temu options. :lmao:
 
bgaidan said:
I do not have. 😢


Every one of those silver sharpie marks equals about 4 HARD hits. At first I was just seeing if/how much it was moving. Then it turned in to a game. I'm fucking sore. :shaking:



Edit: Just looked for a "cheap" lance. Apparently there's no such thing. Looks like a solid grand for the starter kit. Fuck me. No Vevor or Temu options. :lmao:
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Honestly all it is, is an oxygen regulator and a stick holder. I have no idea how they get so much for them.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer Question on a replacement pin. Unless I want to order from the UK and pay 5x and much and wait 2 weeks for shipping, it looks like I need to make a pin or modify something to work.

Original pin is 40mm x ~9" or so long. It didn't seem particularly hard. It's not a rotating or pivoting pin, so that makes sense.

I can get 40mm ground stock from McMaster. 4140 is like $120-130 for a foot. 12L14 is around $70.


Or I can get these hardened chrome pins on ebay for ~$60. I'll have to trim an inch or so off of it, but not a big deal.
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Will using a hardened pin come back to bite me here? Or will it just ensure that I have to by an oxylance the next time I want to remove it? :laughing:
 
Yo dawg, I heard you liked forklifts...

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And the good news is there's reasonably good access to the gland nut from this end so I don't have to fuck with pulling the whole cylinder. The bad news is it's too tight for my goofy adjustable pipe wrench thingy. It just flexes and pops off when crank on it. Gonna either have fab one up/make something on the mill or bite the bullet and buy one. There's one on ebay for ~$50 which is probably the best option.

Anybody have a 65mm open ended wrench they want to let me borrow for a few days? :flipoff2:

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Other interesting thing I found - one of the top boom side wear pads is completely MIA. The other pads look to be in pretty good shape so I doubt they're original. Fortunately, looks like they're available aftermarket from all the usual places for $30 apiece. Only thing I don't like is they don't look like they come with the metal shims. It also looks like the shims are bonded to these so maybe the aftermarket ones are just thicker to make up for it?
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bgaidan said:
Other interesting thing I found - one of the top boom side wear pads is completely MIA. The other pads look to be in pretty good shape so I doubt they're original. Fortunately, looks like they're available aftermarket from all the usual places for $30 apiece. Only thing I don't like is they don't look like they come with the metal shims. It also looks like the shims are bonded to these so maybe the aftermarket ones are just thicker to make up for it?
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If you have a hobby forge setup kicking around those seem like they're begging to be cast in bronze and then machined flat. :laughing:
 
bgaidan said:
Yo dawg, I heard you liked forklifts...




And the good news is there's reasonably good access to the gland nut from this end so I don't have to fuck with pulling the whole cylinder. The bad news is it's too tight for my goofy adjustable pipe wrench thingy. It just flexes and pops off when crank on it. Gonna either have fab one up/make something on the mill or bite the bullet and buy one. There's one on ebay for ~$50 which is probably the best option.

Anybody have a 65mm open ended wrench they want to let me borrow for a few days? :flipoff2:

1715637310202.png




Other interesting thing I found - one of the top boom side wear pads is completely MIA. The other pads look to be in pretty good shape so I doubt they're original. Fortunately, looks like they're available aftermarket from all the usual places for $30 apiece. Only thing I don't like is they don't look like they come with the metal shims. It also looks like the shims are bonded to these so maybe the aftermarket ones are just thicker to make up for it?
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Are you going to drill a hole above or below that cylinder to facilitate lining up the holes?

The hole could be in either boom just not where the two overlap. Most useful place would be below the hole where that eye pin was, just use a push bolt to lift the eye. If it really bugs you just weld it closed after.

Might be able to just use a pointy lineup bar from the opposite side though.
 
That hard pin will be fine. Typically not used in that application because they cost more money.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
Are you going to drill a hole above or below that cylinder to facilitate lining up the holes?

The hole could be in either boom just not where the two overlap. Most useful place would be below the hole where that eye pin was, just use a push bolt to lift the eye. If it really bugs you just weld it closed after.

Might be able to just use a pointy lineup bar from the opposite side though.
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No need. That pin has to come out and go back in no matter which way you tackle this. I'm just choosing to pull the boom extension off vs. pulling the cylinder out the rear. So it's part of the factory procedure to install it blind. The cylinder has a standoff that lifts it up about 1/2 aligned with the hole so it'll be easy enough to lift it from one side with a bar and get the pin in. Especially with the bores cleaned up and the pin moving a little easier. :laughing: I'll put a heavy chamfer on the pin ends to make sure it starts easily.


Only different I'll have to do is stick something under that standoff that will hold it up, but push out of the way when I stick the boom extension back in. Since the "correct" way is to pull the cylinder through the back, you'd have the boom fully retraced and you be the cylinder would be started inside the extension from the back and you'd never have to worry about it. I'll just stick a piece of the dowel or something under it. When I insert the boom, it'll get pushed out of the way and eventually get pushed out the opening in the back.

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Well, this was fun, but also a complete fail. Spread right the fuck out on the first pull. :laughing:

Pin is ordered. Wear pads and shims are ordered. Guess I need to suck it up and order a real wrench too. :shaking:

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Could you do a socket? Cut it in half then tack it back together on the ram? Use a chain wrench, pipe wrench or weld a pipe to socket as your lever?

Wrenches always seem to spread when things are tough.
 
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Pocahontas said:
Could you do a socket? Cut it in half then tack it back together on the ram? Use a chain wrench, pipe wrench or weld a pipe to socket as your lever?

Wrenches always seem to spread when things are tough.
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Possibly, though I'd half expect it to break once it's been welded on. I've tried that in the past and the socket ended up getting really brittle and tearing apart at the weld.

I real wrench will probably work. Something a little harder than the random 1/2 thick angle I had laying around. :laughing:


Dethmachinefab said:
Mill a two piece socket/wrench that can bolt together around the gland nut.
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I almost did this and apparently should have. Or even just making the "forks" longer and welding a bar or sticking a bolt across the open end to keep it from spreading. Might still be able to rig something up with the one I made. Really don't want to make another. I don't have coolant set up on the mill and that contouring is hell on the cutter and mill.
 
This is exactly what I suggested (post 318 and 320).

Even if you zip disk flat bars and weld together to make a hex socket it should work.

I wouldn't try turning something that tight (and expensive) using only two flats. You think it's difficult now? Just wait until you round off some of those corners.
 
bgaidan said:
Possibly, though I'd half expect it to break once it's been welded on. I've tried that in the past and the socket ended up getting really brittle and tearing apart at the weld.

I real wrench will probably work. Something a little harder than the random 1/2 thick angle I had laying around. :laughing:




I almost did this and apparently should have. Or even just making the "forks" longer and welding a bar or sticking a bolt across the open end to keep it from spreading. Might still be able to rig something up with the one I made. Really don't want to make another. I don't have coolant set up on the mill and that contouring is hell on the cutter and mill.
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Bolt is a good idea. Weld a nut on one fork and a sleeve on the other so it can get snug tight.
 
bgaidan said:
Possibly, though I'd half expect it to break once it's been welded on. I've tried that in the past and the socket ended up getting really brittle and tearing apart at the weld.

I real wrench will probably work. Something a little harder than the random 1/2 thick angle I had laying around. :laughing:
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Should have clarified piece of plate cut for the bolt, thicker the better, split plate in two. Get random scrap of iron pipe that has Id bigger than the what ya need to clear. Split pipe, weld plate halves into pipe halves. Put on cylinder and tack together, get big pipe wrench and hang off the end of it till the socket breaks or it comes loose.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Now for the tight one:lmao::flipoff2: you have a seal twister?
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I have a cheap set in my cart on Amazon. These don't feel ridiculously rigid so I may be able to get them in by hand... otherwise, prime delivers. :grinpimp:


I didn't even look at the rod nut. Thinking I'll stick the eye in the rear pin of my yard forklift and then protect the hell out of the rod and rest it on a chunk of wood and crank on it and hope it doesn't fight too much. It probably will.
 
bgaidan said:
I have a cheap set in my cart on Amazon. These don't feel ridiculously rigid so I may be able to get them in by hand... otherwise, prime delivers. :grinpimp:
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Bite the bullet and order them now. I have the $15 for 3 sizes set and they're one of those tools that actually makes you smile when you use them. I did one seal with picks and my fingers just to see how bad it'd be and the difference is huge. It's silly how well they work.
 
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