Amphibious HEMTT

[Yotota]

I haven't checked in on this build for a while, it's looking GREAT. I would imagine that most cops would look at it and think "some surplus military vehicle" and the title saying the generic "Ute" would go with that (Ute = utility = front cabin, covered rear bed).

Honestly it's more legal looking than most military rigs.

 

[subybaja]

<---------- Yep.

Honestly it's more legal looking than most military rigs.

 

[willis_racing]

Whachoo talkin about, Willis?

 

[subybaja]

 

[WaterH]

I'm leery of Googling "Vibrex 2000"!

Have you looked into dynamic balancing at all? Dynabeads, Airsoft, golf balls?

I just ordered the dynabeads. That’s what the steel solder guy said. We’ll see. I found out you don’t have to break down the tire. They fit in the valve stem. Airsoft didn’t work so great on my Bronco, but I had mounting soap all over the wheels/tires. I assembled these without all that. So it should be clean. (The airsoft may have clumped up)

 

[MattS]

I just ordered the dynabeads. That’s what the steel solder guy said. We’ll see. I found out you don’t have to break down the tire. They fit in the valve stem. Airsoft didn’t work so great on my Bronco, but I had mounting soap all over the wheels/tires. I assembled these without all that. So it should be clean. (The airsoft may have clumped up)

I hope you have better luck than I did. Sure they say that. But in my experience they just clump up in the stem and stop flowing. Keeping the tube they come with at a 45 degree angle helps, also pouring them stupid slow. In the end I rigged up one of my kids old electric toothbrushes to the stem and the vibration from that helped keep the tiny evil beads flowing and not clog. When it gets real bad just put your knee into the sidewall and the air pressure will push the beads back into the delivery tube. 12 oz took me about an hour. So 4 hours total.

 

[WaterH]

I hope you have better luck than I did. Sure they say that. But in my experience they just clump up in the stem and stop flowing. Keeping the tube they come with at a 45 degree angle helps, also pouring them stupid slow. In the end I rigged up one of my kids old electric toothbrushes to the stem and the vibration from that helped keep the tiny evil beads flowing and not clog. When it gets real bad just put your knee into the sidewall and the air pressure will push the beads back into the delivery tube. 12 oz took me about an hour. So 4 hours total.

The site said an engraving needle may help. I got 20 oz. each. I don’t know if I can move these Sidewalls. They hardly move with no air pressure.

 

[MattS]

I have TPMS that is part of my valve stem so I could not pull it. But honestly if you don't I would just put 4 new ones in and call it a day. Once you have that out the hole will be plenty big. Best $40 ever spend.

AME 51025 QVC Quick Valve Change Tool

A tool used to easily install rubber valve stems onto wheels without demounting the tire. Valve tools for repair, replacement, core removal, and more. Everything you need in order.

www.alltiresupply.com

 

[WaterH]

I have metal valve stems.

 

[WaterH]

New problem. I pulled the truck out to work on my Bronco. When I pulled it back in, the power steering housing started leaking. This is a part I bought from PSC.

Back story
I bought this part and many others from PSC a long time ago. (Maybe eight years) There’s pics of it back in this thread somewhere. The first one leaked right where the big fitting is welded on. (The fitting where the resivour hooks on) I called PSC and they sent another right away. (No questions asked, didn’t ask for the old one back) It has worked fine all these years. Of course, I haven’t driven it much during building. Now it has about 500 miles on it and I think it’s leaking at the same weld.

Is this a known problem area? I still have the old one. Should I try to get it welded? The housing is plated with zinc. (I think) welding might be a challenge. I have no complaint of PSC and I could care less about the money, but it’s a pain to get at it now. I really want it fixed this time. Does anybody make a billet one?

 

[Bebop]

How is your resi mounted ? How is the line routed ? If the connection between the can and the resi is too stiff, it'll break the weld. Known issue.

 

[Yotota]

What valve stems do you have now? Those big wheels could have the larger industrial size instead of the normal automotive size.

And post a pic of the steering leak. I'm curious what part it is.

 

[WaterH]

How is your resi mounted ? How is the line routed ? If the connection between the can and the resi is too stiff, it'll break the weld. Known issue.

The resi is very close to the unit and is mounted to the engine. So both should move together. The line is almost straight. It is somewhat stiff because it is #12 line.

What valve stems do you have now? Those big wheels could have the larger industrial size instead of the normal automotive size.

And post a pic of the steering leak. I'm curious what part it is.

Valve stems are standard. I don’t know for sure it’s the weld, but that’s my guess. Picture a standard power steering housing. Remove the fill tube and weld on a #12 AN fitting. That’s what it looks like.

I found some old pics.

system

My old leak.

 

[Bebop]

That's pretty good already for sure.

The only thing I could think of would be to replace the forged 90 and the heavy steel fittings and high pressure line by some aluminum and pushlock hose. It would be lighter, flow better and flex better.

Maybe the heavy vibrations of the diesel were enough to kill this little weld with the extra weight and long fulcrum point.

I tried to weld on one, but they are really thin, and with the plating it's pretty hard.

Other option (a lot more $$) would be to replace it with a CBR pump. No tin housing to flex and crack.

Edit : IDK why I didn't think about that before, you could get a factory housing / pump from a GMT800 with the 8.1. It has the ports for the hydroboost return and already setup for the remote hose to come directly in it

 

[WaterH]

That's pretty good already for sure.

The only thing I could think of would be to replace the forged 90 and the heavy steel fittings and high pressure line by some aluminum and pushlock hose. It would be lighter, flow better and flex better.

I talked to PCS today and that’s pretty much what they said. Kind of sucks. That short line was a bitch to assemble and wasn’t cheap either. Are the pushlock hose available at hardware stores with AN fittings? Or is that strictly online?

 

[Bebop]

Unless you have a speed shop nearby, it's an online deal.

 

[WaterH]

First car show. Most people didn’t know what it was. It was funny to listen to people that thought they knew what they were looking at. One guy was going on about how he drove these all over Irac. Lol. Another guy was educating his friends on how the cab was graphed on to a light truck frame. Had a couple guys that caught the Ford hubs.

They put me at the far back corner of the show. The only thing further was the sheriffs chopper.

 

[arse_sidewards]

They put me at the far back corner of the show. The only thing further was the sheriffs chopper.

That's where I go first because it's where all the historically interesting but unrestored vehicles and the crazy combos wind up.

 

[CarterKraft]

I checked at the glass place and they said they maybe could cut one tomorrow. They were going to do some semi windshields. I asked the women if they wanted the whole job so I wouldn’t have to install it. She said no. She went on to ask if I wanted a job teaching her guys how to install them. Lol. She said all the experienced guys have retired and she can’t get anyone. She said she has watched someone do it many times but she has never. She will be teaching the guys tomorrow. Lol.

I have a giant crack in my Bronco windshield for over ten years. I wouldn’t have this fixed except the truck is brand new. I purposely am not taking it off road yet so I don’t scratch it before I take it to a couple car shows.

Call the local CAT (Ring Power maybe?) and ask who they use for glass. We have a very good relationship with a local glass shop that does all of our installs, they wouldn't blink at it.

 

[CarterKraft]

The resi is very close to the unit and is mounted to the engine. So both should move together. The line is almost straight. It is somewhat stiff because it is #12 line.



Valve stems are standard. I don’t know for sure it’s the weld, but that’s my guess. Picture a standard power steering housing. Remove the fill tube and weld on a #12 AN fitting. That’s what it looks like.

I found some old pics.

system

My old leak.

I'd braze that fitting on there with a large fillet. That steel braid hose isn't helping I'm sure but it shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Treefrog]

Any plans to take it to Sun 'n Fun?

 

[WaterH]

Any plans to take it to Sun 'n Fun?

I haven’t been asked to fly there. Right now, the truck is down for a power steering leak. (Waiting on parts)

 

[CDA 455 II]

First car show. Most people didn’t know what it was. It was funny to listen to people that thought they knew what they were looking at. One guy was going on about how he drove these all over Irac. Lol. Another guy was educating his friends on how the cab was graphed on to a light truck frame. Had a couple guys that caught the Ford hubs.

They put me at the far back corner of the show. The only thing further was the sheriffs chopper.

Pretty cool!

 

[reptillikus]

Its cool seeing it next to other vehicles, shows just how damn big it really is.

 

[Rubirunner85]

Well have you seen if it will float yet?

 

[WaterH]

Well have you seen if it will float yet?

Haven't even painted the floats yet. I plan on driving it around working out the bugs for at least six months before looking at the floats. Truck is still down over steering pump parts right now. Funny thing, my Delorean is down for brakes/wheel bearing parts. So, back to driving the old Bronco.

 

[WaterH]

So I took a 300 mile (round trip) I have been concerned with tire balance and it’s still a concern. I put the ceramic beads in, but I forgot that I have double bead locks. So all those beads must find their way through two 1/2” holes together out to where they can do some good. Either they haven’t made it yet or they don’t work. It was better, but I would like it smoother.

Ive had several people tell me I need to run low tire pressure. I put all four tires at 16 psi before I left. I did this with a 0-100 gauge, so it probably wasn’t that accurate. When I got to my destination, I bought a 0-20 gauge and put them all to 16 again. (All of them were reading high) There is a more noticeable bulge at the true 16 psi. On the way home, I noticed several things. The vibration was no better. The tires make more noise. The tires get hot. Also, the whole truck had a mushy kind of feel. It already has a mush feel because of the airbags, but with the tires low, it really is annoying. It was nice driving down the dirt road, but that was only one mile of the whole trip.

Other than that, a couple screws in the bed vibrated out. I guess I will have to lock tight them. Also there is a slight leak of tranny fluid. The level didn’t really go down, but everything was wet behind the tranny. I couldn’t really pinpoint the leak. Maybe the adapter to T-case joint. I don’t think I have any gasket there, but I didn’t think there was really much fluid there. I checked the tranny temp right when I got home and it was only 171. I thought it would be much hotter.

I know what everybody is thinking …..what was the mileage? Well, the tank is hard to fill right up, but the best I can figure I got just under 14 mpg. I really feel the low tire pressure hurt the mileage. Most of the trip was on local highways at about 60 mph. Had a couple short stints on the interstate, but still never went over 65. If you want to feel like life is passing you by, drive 60 on the interstate.

Anyways, I’m pretty happy with the trip. I do have a steering issue, but I’m going to post that in a general question. (Hoping to get everybody’s input)

 

[MattS]

Have you jacked it up and spun the tires? I have a buddy with some 44inch XML's that were horrible. He had a tire shop put them on the balancer and they were way out of round. They shaved em with this cool machine and it was a lot better after.

 

[WaterH]

Have you jacked it up and spun the tires? I have a buddy with some 44inch XML's that were horrible. He had a tire shop put them on the balancer and they were way out of round. They shaved em with this cool machine and it was a lot better after.

So when they did this, do they drive the truck till the tires are warm? I set this up.

After I took this pic, I moved the jack stand up till it just scraped the dirt off the tire. There was a “out of round“ of about 1/8”. Would that be considered terrible? That was on the pax side. On the drivers, it was not as bad except for a flat spot. I’m thinking the flat spot was from parking over night.

Any home made tire shavers?

 

[arse_sidewards]

After I took this pic, I moved the jack stand up till it just scraped the dirt off the tire. There was a “out of round“ of about 1/8”. Would that be considered terrible?

That's fuckin great for a tire that size.