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Amphibious HEMTT

ExWrench said:
Dude, your rig is coming together nicely! :grinpimp:

You need to replace the thread info. in your signature line.​
The forum upgrade restructured the thread addresses.​
​
SHOULD BE: Amphibious HEMTT​

Thanks for keeping at it and for all the updates :beer:
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Thanks for the kind words.

on the signature, Im not real good with puters . On the old site, I had it like you have and it was a link to the thread. But I couldn’t remember how I did that.

In other news, I got a new VSS and now my speedometer works. I was glad there was nothing wrong with my wiring or the ten year old “new gauge”. When I was out calibrating the Speedo, I had the ring mount/sunroof open and the drivers door window down. It works great. The air goes in the door and out the ring.

The one issue I noticed is when the fans are running, the belt slips some. If I turn the AC on also, it really slips. I guess the alternator is a lot of drag. I don’t know if I can get a more powerful tensioner or maybe get another idler to create more “wrap” on the alt.

I ended up driving about four miles at 60 mph and another four miles at 35 (dirt road). I checked the tranny temp and it was 133. I only have the “in radiator“ cooler. So I’m keeping an eye on that.

I know sucky update with no pics. I’ll have some shortly.
 
Small update,

Got my overhead console done.

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You can see I put some vents on each side of the stereo.

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I also did a small modification to my “quick release”, steering wheel. I didn’t like the way it wobbled because of the play in the splines. I made a small spacer and threaded the center for a knob. Now I slide the wheel on as normal and then tighten the center knob. It removes all the pla associated with the splines. I bought the knob at Lowe’s. I don’t really like it, so I will be making something more esthetic later.

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WaterH said:
So I got some more done. Now it has a front bumper, a roll bar and for the first time both windshields installed. It even has working windshield wipers. Woo hoo!

This is pretty much how the outside will look. The only changes to come are the canvas rear cover and the floats. (If I choose to use them)

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After I took those pics, I got inside, rolled the windows up and turned on the AC. It started blowing cold. Cool! Then the sun went behind a cloud. So I thought I should get some pics from the other side.

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The green really takes on a differnt hue when it's not in the sun.

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So when I got back to the truck after taking the pics, I opened the door and got a river of cold air flowing out. It was only idling for about five minutes. There is no insulation right now and the trim around the doors inside is not installed. (About a 1/4" gap around the doors.) The AC definitely kicks ass. When I started Reving it just a little to back it in, it even blows colder.

IMG_0551.JPG


Back in it still sucks. Part of finishing the interior is installing a radio with a GPS/backup camera. That's going in a overhead console. Of course, I haven't made any of that yet. But I do have some angle riveted to the roof allready. So I won't be messing with the paint.

I would have takin it for a spin down the road today, but I don't have the front of the fenders attached. They bolt to the step brackets and I'm still working on the steps. That day is coming soon.
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Camo looks super cool. Overall I would drive it to the grocery store every chance I had. Street legal plates are icing on the cake.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Camo looks super cool. Overall I would drive it to the grocery store every chance I had. Street legal plates are icing on the cake.
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Thanks, the plate is just an old one, but a legal plate is in the future. I’ve takin it on road a few times for testing, but always on deserted back roads. I can’t wait till I can drive it without looking over my shoulder.
 
So I made attached a grab handle to the side of the dash. I don’t really like it, but I needed something to help climb into this thing. I didn’t want people pulling on the door. Even though the dash is only sheet metal, the handle is rock solid.

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I ran into another problem with the steps. A gas strut pulls them up, but it is at the end of its travel once their up. So if I go over bump, they drop down just a little. See here.

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My OCD won’t allow that. So I got some spring ball things and installed them behind the lever inside. Here you can see it with the lever up.

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Then I drilled a divot in the back of the lever Just below the knob.

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Now the lever snaps into place more securely When retracted.

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It seems to hold the steps up better, but I haven’t tested it on bumps yet.

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If that doesn’t work, I’m going to put some magnets under there to hold them.
 
So I ran into another problem with the airbag setup. I have a pressure gauge for each bag. I figure I could pump them up to some “known psi“ for different lift heights. When I first built the valve/gauge setup, I busted one of the gauge needles while testing. Here’s what I think happens.

The pressure comes from the tank in the rear to the valve setup and splits to the four valves. After each valve, I have a tee. One side goes to the gauge and the other to the bag. Pretty simple. Well, if I open the valve fully, I get a 140 psi to the gauge right now and slowly get pressure through the 1/8“ line to the bag. My gauges are 0-60 psi because that’s all I need to jack the truck to the ceiling. I figured I would have more precise control with them. The problem is the high pressure going to the gauge will slam the needle against the peg so fast this happens. (Right gauge)

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It’s not that the gauge can’t take the high pressure. (Its good for 300 psi) It just can’t take the sudden spike of pressure. When this happened a few years ago, I thought , well, I need to only open the valve easy till the bag fills to the desired amount. That’s what I have been doing ever since to keep from busting needles. A couple days ago I was raising and lowering the truck and I busted another one. These gauges are very cheap, but a total PITA to change.

I can tell that it will be no fun if every time someone plays with my valves, I have to change a gauge. Even if I have a momentary lapse, it sucks. So today I swapped them to 0-100 psi gauges. I’m hoping the higher reading will slow the needle swing down and not cause the problem. They make them in 0-160 also. That would certainly solve it, but then my “operating range” becomes so small, it’s almost useless. I’ll see.
 
As the bags compress, the pressure in them goes up. At full bump I wouldn't be surprised if you were over 100psi.
 
bdkw1 said:
As the bags compress, the pressure in them goes up. At full bump I wouldn't be surprised if you were over 100psi.
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True, but that’s at the other end of a long 1/8” line. So unless it was held there some how, it would never get to the max at the gauge. Again, the gauge is good for 300 psi if you slowly apply pressure.
 
Put a gauge snubber on it and/or a pressure regulator on the supply line.
The snubber will reduce the pressure spikes the gauge sees and the regulator will reduce the spike when opening the valve.
Might also switch to needle valves if you are using ball valves.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Put a gauge snubber on it and/or a pressure regulator on the supply line.
The snubber will reduce the pressure spikes the gauge sees and the regulator will reduce the spike when opening the valve.
Might also switch to needle valves if you are using ball valves.

Aaron Z
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A regulator might be an option. I’m not taking this apart again. You can see the valves. Not really sure how they work, but they are very robust and look cool.

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I don’t know how big a snubber is, but I don’t have much room.

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aczlan said:
I think the ones that he has are 1" diameter and that is 1.5" diameter so that may not work without reworking the panel.

Aaron Z
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Actually, mine is 1.5, but it is only about 3/8” Thick. (Those are 1”) I like the look of those. (Better than mine) But I doubt if I could fit them unless I cut out the floor under the gauges. Not out of the question, but I’m going to try the 0-100 first.
 
CDA 455 II said:
WaterH

Is your rig registerable in FL?
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Not yet. This is something I need opinions on.

I talked to my local tag office about the truck. They say I have two options for registration.

1. Get a new title for a “special construction” . This involves bringing receipts for major items and paper work. Then there will be an inspection. After the title is in hand, I get insurance and they will issue a plate.

2. Take my current title and proof of insurance in and they will issue a plate. She said it doesn’t matter if you modified it as long as the vin is on the frame and dash.

Obviously, the second option is a lot easier. There are some problems associated with it. She told me that people with Fireo’s with Lamborghini bodies do this often. The problem is any cop who runs your plates and does not recognize the vehicle can pull you over. As long as the vin# on the frame and dash matches the title, you are OK, but you can’t claim harassment. You could get pulled over multiple times a day if they want. She said they can also require you to bring the car to their shop to verify the vin on the frame if it’s not easy to see. (Mines not) I did install the original vin on the dash in the corner of the windshield.

The other thing she mentioned is be sure your insurance indicates the car has been modified.

Im not sure which way to go. I might try the easy way first and see how much of a hassle it is. Has anybody on here done this and found it to be a major hassle?
 
bdkw1 said:
#2

If you don't drive like an asshole you won't be getting pulled over or your plates run.
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I tend to agree, but most cops that know are “car guys”. So if they saw something like this, they may run the plates just to find out what it is. When it comes up Bronco, lights and siren time.
 
WaterH said:
I tend to agree, but most cops that know are “car guys”. So if they saw something like this, they may run the plates just to find out what it is. When it comes up Bronco, lights and siren time.
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It's on a Bronco frame is it not?

I think you'll be fine if you give them the "yes sir, did all the aluminum fabrication myself sir" routine. Worst case you'll get a warning.

Frankly I think your issue will be that any cop who's riding shotgun with a rookie will likely make the rookie pull you over so they can do "training" where they check all your papers 110%. Seems like 50% of the time I stick a boat on the roof of a Subaru that happens.
 
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