Typical buggy shit motion ratio.Finished assembly:
Typical buggy shit motion ratio.Finished assembly:
You have a welder, there are no limitations.There are certainly limitations to what can be done with the system.
No, shock needs to be leaned farther forward. If he had put a horizontal bar between the B pillar and the diagonal it's mounted off of, he could have gotten a lot closer.Would be better top mount of the shock where the resi is.
Nyet. The upper mount where it is causes the shock to have a rising rate as it approaches bump. Those arms angle pretty steep when they get to bump.Would be better top mount of the shock where the resi is.
Typical when switching to coilovers from what I have seen but you guys are talking way above my knowledge level.2nd also WTF up with the hiem joint attachment from the replacement spring plate to the arm? That's going to get interesting.
Hiem at the torsion housing end yes. Another one connecting to the arm no. There is nothing to keep the arm from flopping around. Hitting the brakes will wrap that thing up quick. Unless there's another link in there to keep it constrained that I'm not seeing.....Typical when switching to coilovers from what I have seen but you guys are talking way above my knowledge level.
Listening though, because I'd love to eventually go coilovers instead of torsion bars.
.
The trailing arm is constrained at the inner pivot mount. Applying brakes cannot make the arm flop around. The outer link is just constraining the fore/aft movement of the trailing arm.Hiem at the torsion housing end yes. Another one connecting to the arm no. There is nothing to keep the arm from flopping around. Hitting the brakes will wrap that thing up quick. Unless there's another link in there to keep it constrained that I'm not seeing.....
You just reduced the strength of the arm assembly by at least 50%. This will not end well. Thar inner mount is going to get worked with all the extra load placed on it.The trailing arm is constrained at the inner pivot mount. Applying brakes cannot make the arm flop around. The outer link is just constraining the fore/aft movement of the trailing arm.
Gotcha. I figured you would want as close to 90 at full stuff. Didn't look like it would get there.No, shock needs to be leaned farther forward. If he had put a horizontal bar between the B pillar and the diagonal it's mounted off of, he could have gotten a lot closer.
You are correct! I was not looking at it like that. Thanks for learning me something.You just reduced the strength of the arm assembly by at least 50%. This will not end well. Thar inner mount is going to get worked with all the extra load placed on it.
No, shock needs to be leaned farther forward. If he had put a horizontal bar between the B pillar and the diagonal it's mounted off of, he could have gotten a lot closer.
The trailing arm is constrained at the inner pivot mount. Applying brakes cannot make the arm flop around. The outer link is just constraining the fore/aft movement of the trailing arm.
You just reduced the strength of the arm assembly by at least 50%. This will not end well. Thar inner mount is going to get worked with all the extra load placed on it.
Except his (like every other spring plate ever) is bolted to the arm with 3 bolts. This takes a lot of bending and twisting loads out of the arm. Having that extra pivot like the ones above put all that load solely on the inner pivot.I'm not sure I'm following. You're basically replacing the stock torsion with the coilover and the stock plate with the outer link. Otherwise, it is essentially the same as what Sceep has here:
The Norra is a very smooth course, stock vehicles run it. I was there 2 years ago, coming into BOLA, we were 3rd overall in a street legal Bronco. I've been doing this a very long time, Ive seen a lot of different suspension setups on Vdubs. This is the first time I have seen that. While it "works" short term, long term longevity is not going to be there. Look at the spring plate mounts on any 3x3 trailing arm. They are beefy for a reason.Ok, I see what you're getting at. By the way, here is the full kit description: Options and Accessories
In practice I'm not sure that it is as serious a concern as you've laid out as these have been used by a variety of rails over the years - including two that competed in the NORRA Mexican 1000 two years ago.
I just work at Berrien part time and was fabricating and assembling a kit for a customer. I appreciate the input as I'm learning from it and will discuss the concerns with the designers.
Heim at the torsion housing end yes. Another one connecting to the arm no. There is nothing to keep the arm from flopping around. Hitting the brakes will wrap that thing up quick. Unless there's another link in there to keep it constrained that I'm not seeing.....
Swap solenoid guts to old starter?Sceeping along here. Been fighting with wiring (my nemesis on any build) . Finally got fuel pump and ECU relays triggering. Put in a new $$$ Odessy battery. Everything looks good to go. Slam some fuel in the cell for the first time and turn the key. fuckin dead. Like. dead battery, can barely crank 1/4 revolution DEAD. WTF. Battery load tests good, nothing wrong there. Starter just took a shit while sitting here for 5 months?
Go grab a new starter from the Irish and the fucking solenoid is clocked differently and wont go in. its hitting the damn tubework i just laid in to mount the fuel cell. So now I guess I'm back to hacking shit apart for clearance.
Was really hoping to fire this bitch back up today. oh well.
I hackfucked the tube for clearance.Swap solenoid guts to old starter?
battery load tests good. I fucking hate electrical problems.I hackfucked the tube for clearance.
And it still sounds the same. Seems like this brand fucking new odyssey battery has no amps.