That's your decision to ultimately make but what is your reasoning for using one?
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A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build
- Thread starter Wisconsinite
- Start date
That's your decision to ultimately make but what is your reasoning for using one?
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
They are in the ultra4 rule book, I figured there must be some saftey aspect to it. An anti theft system, and maybe to stop the fuel rail/lines from draining when changing a filter. (read: I don't have a solid reason)
If you have it, may as well put it in.
Don't forget to carry AN caps and plugs with you in your spare parts box in case you need to cap/plug a line or component.
Don't forget to carry AN caps and plugs with you in your spare parts box in case you need to cap/plug a line or component.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
we used a shut off on my buddies rig when It laid over on the side. he had it vented but it still poured out. But that’s the only time I have seen it needed.
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HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
I have one for this reason alone although the ULTRA4 rule book is designed to cover all applications assuming no other safety is involved. I have both the pressure line and the vent line on ball valves. The 2005 GM drop in tank pump has a really good rollover valve built in. Its pilot operated and engages around 90 degrees and releases under pressure once returned to realistic running angles. Others can lock up once under pressure even on flat ground and not release building more and more pressure.
Pressure line is a must. Closer to the pump the better. Say you have a link leak and the pump is full flow spraying fuel, you want to shut it down at the source.
Keep in mind if you add a valve it has to accessible from a bystander with the vehicle on its side or upside down. 50/50 chance if you side mount the valve, you will not be able to reach it. Roof mounted would be second best option. Tail mounted would probably be best option of reaching it.
Realistic application to mount the valve and not have the hoses and valve create a greater hazard by getting ripped, crushed, burned, left leaking fuel is unlikely. Just plumb the valve directly over your head on the roll cage so when SHTF you can shower yourself with fuel and enjoy a quick cremation and go down with your ship.
weld caps and plugs to the chassis, install the mate. never have to dig through a bag.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Whow that's way to damn smart
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Not a ton of progress the last few weeks. Went out hunting with my Dad, then thanksgiving, then my beater daily let me know she needed a little attention. I have to toss in some lower control arms, ball joints, sway bar bushings, end links, struts, engine mounts, tires, front pads and rotors, stupid press in bearings, and that should get her tuned up. Then I should be able to get back onto the jeep saturday and sunday.
I did get some spare tie rods from summit machine, as well as a new fairlead.
I did get some spare tie rods from summit machine, as well as a new fairlead.
67StingrayJ
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2022
- Member Number
- 5793
- Messages
- 153
I clicked that "watch" button, but I don't know why. Builds like this are beyond the average mans means. Love the build thus far though. Serious pro stuff.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Thank you for the kind words.. I put pretty much all my hobbies on hold for the last five years of my life. I have no kids, no house, drive a shitty old pontiac, don't eat out, don't party, don't drink, and pretty much 100 percent of my dispoable income goes into this. My goal is to have a badass rig, and I am getting there. It is crazy to think about, but before I started working at Goatbuilt, I didn't know what a trailing arm or bypass shock was, I didn't know how to tig weld, and I thought my POS SPOA CJ5 on bald 36" super swampers was the hot shit.
DesertCJ
Name of Pheel...
Should have added "usually" at the end for your fairlead
You're doing it on easy mode. Cram a couple kids, a wife, a house and too many expensive hobbies into the mix. It'll really shake up your build
. But really, excellent work as always.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Made some progress yesterday.
I needed to get the fuel line situation sorted. I was using a fuel filter regulator that seemed pretty slick, it had male -6 an fittings on it, and it eliminated a few fitting, was reasonably priced, and was used when I made all my hard and soft fuel lines. After getting some input from people on this board, it turns out it is a cheap piece of junk that has a tendency to be problematic. I replaced it with a WIX 33737 and some different fittings. This made the assembly longer, and I needed to shorten the SS hardline, or the 2 flex hoses. I initially was going to shorten the hardline, but it wouldn't have worked with my flare tool. There was not enough material after the bend to use my flare tool. I decided to shorten the flex lines.
I made some inner fender panels and installed those. This was my first time using clecos, they are pretty damn slick.
I added some rock light mounts. I decided to go with 2 x 2 gussets with a nutsert.
I needed to get the fuel line situation sorted. I was using a fuel filter regulator that seemed pretty slick, it had male -6 an fittings on it, and it eliminated a few fitting, was reasonably priced, and was used when I made all my hard and soft fuel lines. After getting some input from people on this board, it turns out it is a cheap piece of junk that has a tendency to be problematic. I replaced it with a WIX 33737 and some different fittings. This made the assembly longer, and I needed to shorten the SS hardline, or the 2 flex hoses. I initially was going to shorten the hardline, but it wouldn't have worked with my flare tool. There was not enough material after the bend to use my flare tool. I decided to shorten the flex lines.
I made some inner fender panels and installed those. This was my first time using clecos, they are pretty damn slick.
I added some rock light mounts. I decided to go with 2 x 2 gussets with a nutsert.
Scooter
walk home clown
You should bring this out to KoH so I can oggle over it in person. Great stuff bud.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
I made a pact with myself that I won't go to KOH again until I have this finished. 4000 miles, 2k in fuel, weeks away from the shop, and the expense of the trip isn't worth it without a rig to beat on. I have gone 4 of the last 6 years and it is such a boner killer to be on the lake bed without this thing done.
Thanks for the kind words.
Scooter
walk home clown
I get it as I fly into Vegas and my rental RV is in LA. Keep on rocking bringing this thing to life.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
This is a shop built rig out of MI. They did a great job on it, and this and Ian's has provided a little motivation.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
I think I have a solution for the trailing arm issue. I milled the pinch bolt holes to have clearance for a 3/8" bolt. I milled the holes offcenter to keep as much material on the tab as possible, and move the hole inboard. The extra clamp load helped and I was able to pinch the rod end. I wrapped the threads of the JJ in copper foil and tossed it in the lathe, then machined a small 45 degree chamfer past the threads into the transition of the body.I threaded the joint to as far in as possible with the proper orientaion. Then I made some spacers from 1.75" X .25" wall DOM. I turned these down in thickness until they were tight once the JJ was threaded in. With the combination of the pinch bolt, spacer, and a gallon of locktite, I think this is a good enough solution I can move on.
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chaplinfj60
Well-known member
holly cow yes.... very cool
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
No truer words, going to a car show without your car might as well drive a prius...
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Very cool solution.
Don't forget to modify an extra joint for a spare.
Don't forget to modify an extra joint for a spare.
Nicely done.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Got a few quick items knocked off the list.
Mounted the rear chase bar
Installed some whips. I know these are overkill, but I love them.
I am currently working on a catch can / breather set up for the drivetrain, I am running out of space so they are pretty small. I am also using this as some aluminum practice since the welds are getting ground down. I started with 1.5" X 1.5" X .125" wall square tubing and 1/4" end caps.
Like and subscribe so you don't miss part two of "A catchy catch can"!
Mounted the rear chase bar
Installed some whips. I know these are overkill, but I love them.
I am currently working on a catch can / breather set up for the drivetrain, I am running out of space so they are pretty small. I am also using this as some aluminum practice since the welds are getting ground down. I started with 1.5" X 1.5" X .125" wall square tubing and 1/4" end caps.
Like and subscribe so you don't miss part two of "A catchy catch can"!
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Got the catch can almost finished, just need to dial in how to mount it. There is a NPT port in the bottom for the vent lines from the axles, trans, and the t-case. The top has a roll over valve to 516 barb fitting finished off with a little 1.5" dia UNI filter. I know the can capacity is pretty small, but it should be better than nothing.
This is a little air tank I made that will sit behind the passenger seat. It has a -4 air feed from the compressor, an air chuck, two 1/8 NPT ports for ARB solenoids, and a tank drain on the bottom. The housing is 2.5" X .25" aluminum tubing and 1" solid end caps. In each end of the tube I turned in a counterbore .500" deep and the minumum diameter that got 100 percent clean up. The end caps had a shoulder that resulted in a light press fit and profiled them to reduce some weight. I pressed them together, welded them, then turned off the weld bead. There was a large chamfer on each side of the weld, I will pressure test it before install.
This is a little air tank I made that will sit behind the passenger seat. It has a -4 air feed from the compressor, an air chuck, two 1/8 NPT ports for ARB solenoids, and a tank drain on the bottom. The housing is 2.5" X .25" aluminum tubing and 1" solid end caps. In each end of the tube I turned in a counterbore .500" deep and the minumum diameter that got 100 percent clean up. The end caps had a shoulder that resulted in a light press fit and profiled them to reduce some weight. I pressed them together, welded them, then turned off the weld bead. There was a large chamfer on each side of the weld, I will pressure test it before install.
WaterH
Well-known member
Your updates are always cool.
DesertCJ
Name of Pheel...
I like your breather catch cans. I just have a row of roll-over valves and they do puke gear oil from the crawl box and the t-case too I think if I put in too much oil.
What are you running with the air tank? It looks very small, enough for air lockers but that's probably it.
What are you running with the air tank? It looks very small, enough for air lockers but that's probably it.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Thanks, they turned out pretty good. I welded a a piece of 1/8" aluminum to the back of the catch can and mounted it to the firewall. I am hoping this is high enough that they won't puke fluid.
And to your point of the small air tank, yeah, it is pretty tiny. With the dual motor ARB compressor, I am hoping a large tank isn't needed for what I am looking to do. This will be used for the two solenoids for the lockers, and filling tires and blowing out the cab with an air wand. I am not sure what 3 CFM at 90psi feels like, but the compressor has 100 percent duty cycle (ashkey, lol) so I am going to let it rip.
And as I make my way closer to the end, I am seeing the need for a lot of little brackets, line and wire seperators, edge guards, etc. I bit the bullet and decided to buy a 3D printer. I am pretty excited for the possibilites!
Happy new years!
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
I am getting to the point where I need to have everything mounted to the chassis so the wiring planning/layout can really get rolling. In my reading, I have noticed there can be an issue with high power radios/intercoms being in close proximity to the PCM. In the instructions for the engine wiring harness and the Holley EFI, it mentions good and bad practices for running "noisey" wires (comm cables) near sensitive sensor cables (cam/crank), and that sounded like a bunch of dicking around. I think I am going to try to eliminate that problem from the get go.
My current plan is to make an overhead center console. This console will house the intercom, radio, external radio speaker, switch panel, dome lights, 4 x headset ports, maybe a usb charger and a stereo and amp. I am thinking about a thin (.080) steel weld in panel that will be welded to the top of the tubes to make a water tight top. The side plates and face plates will be made out of 1/8" AL and formed/welded. I am thinking about making the rear of the console hinge down with a mechanism very similar to a truck tail gate. There will be a few bolt tabs welded to the chassis, that when unbolted would let the whole console swing down for maintenance, and be able to remove entirely if needed. So far the components that would be mounted in the console weigh 9.5 lbs with the wiring.
Does a person mount a the antenna to the top plate that is welded in and cut a small hole in the soft top?
Up until a few days ago, I hadn't considered this option, this is still a work in progress. Any ideas/input are welcome.
View from driver side
view from back
Cross section view.
My current plan is to make an overhead center console. This console will house the intercom, radio, external radio speaker, switch panel, dome lights, 4 x headset ports, maybe a usb charger and a stereo and amp. I am thinking about a thin (.080) steel weld in panel that will be welded to the top of the tubes to make a water tight top. The side plates and face plates will be made out of 1/8" AL and formed/welded. I am thinking about making the rear of the console hinge down with a mechanism very similar to a truck tail gate. There will be a few bolt tabs welded to the chassis, that when unbolted would let the whole console swing down for maintenance, and be able to remove entirely if needed. So far the components that would be mounted in the console weigh 9.5 lbs with the wiring.
Does a person mount a the antenna to the top plate that is welded in and cut a small hole in the soft top?
Up until a few days ago, I hadn't considered this option, this is still a work in progress. Any ideas/input are welcome.
View from driver side
view from back
Cross section view.