A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build

[Wisconsinite]

wont the carrier bearing move when engine is reved, or is all this movement in sync with the entire drive train, bacily if the engine moves up a 1/4 inch the bearing goes up and the tcase does too so it all stays in line? maybe i just am over thinking it.

cool idea though

That is the goal. I think if I was hard mounting the bearing to the chassis, I would need a slip in the midship. With it mounted to the drivetrain, the thought is everything will move as one unit, and should not bind/cause issues. Also worth noting that I THINK if there is a big impact or force acting on the carrier bearing, the bearing would move in the housing, or the bearing would move on the shaft. I think, but I could be way off base on that too. This is my first time doing any of this, so everything is a learning experiance.

 

[chaplinfj60]

That is the goal. I think if I was hard mounting the bearing to the chassis, I would need a slip in the midship. With it mounted to the drivetrain, the thought is everything will move as one unit, and should not bind/cause issues. Also worth noting that I THINK if there is a big impact or force acting on the carrier bearing, the bearing would move in the housing, or the bearing would move on the shaft. I think, but I could be way off base on that too. This is my first time doing any of this, so everything is a learning experiance.

i like the concept for sure.

awesome idea again.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Has anyone used poly bushings to mount the entire drivetrain? I have two poly bushings supporting the engine/engine cradle, one under the trans-tcase adapter, and one on the output of the atlas. I have been told the poly bushings don't move that much more then if they were solid mounted? Again, I don't have any first hand experiance, but from what I was told, the engine shouldn't even move .25" when it goes through the rev cycle. I sure hope it doesn't move more than that.

 

[white-rhino]

Is that a spherical carrier bearing? If so, that along with the double cardan joint at the t-case would allow the driveshaft to wobble. (I think) If it's a double Taper bearing or ball bearing, it would hold rigid.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Is that a spherical carrier bearing? If so, that along with the double cardan joint at the t-case would allow the driveshaft to wobble. (I think) If it's a double Taper bearing or ball bearing, it would hold rigid.

I am pretty sure it is just a standard ball bearing

 

[mobil1syn]

if it goes wrong that will get ugly in a hurry.

 

[Wisconsinite]

if it goes wrong that will get ugly in a hurry.

How so? Take out the trans case?

 

[KungFooMASTA]

Has anyone used poly bushings to mount the entire drivetrain? I have two poly bushings supporting the engine/engine cradle, one under the trans-tcase adapter, and one on the output of the atlas. I have been told the poly bushings don't move that much more then if they were solid mounted? Again, I don't have any first hand experiance, but from what I was told, the engine shouldn't even move .25" when it goes through the rev cycle. I sure hope it doesn't move more than that.

I built some engine and trans mounts for my Land Rover with HDPE that I machined into bushings. They did not move at all, it was like having solid mounts. But the hdpe did end up melting on the mount close to the exhaust.

 

[Bebop]

Has anyone used poly bushings to mount the entire drivetrain? I have two poly bushings supporting the engine/engine cradle, one under the trans-tcase adapter, and one on the output of the atlas. I have been told the poly bushings don't move that much more then if they were solid mounted? Again, I don't have any first hand experiance, but from what I was told, the engine shouldn't even move .25" when it goes through the rev cycle. I sure hope it doesn't move more than that.

That's how mine is mounted (without the 4th one under the atlas since I don't believe in it) but the engine barely moves, if any.

 

[Wisconsinite]

I built some engine and trans mounts for my Land Rover with HDPE that I machined into bushings. They did not move at all, it was like having solid mounts. But the hdpe did end up melting on the mount close to the exhaust.

Thanks for the input. That confirms what I have been told.

That's how mine is mounted (without the 4th one under the atlas since I don't believe in it) but the engine barely moves, if any.

Why don't you believe in the atlas output mount? I don't get the warm fuzzies when I think about 120lbs of transfer case holding on by what, 6 studs?

 

[white-rhino]

Thanks for the input. That confirms what I have been told.



Why don't you believe in the atlas output mount? I don't get the warm fuzzies when I think about 120lbs of transfer case holding on by what, 6 studs?

Mount to too many places on a frame that "may" flex and now you have things fighting against each other vs letting it float in the air. Think of it this way. If the frame is flexing, you are now using the Tcase mounts to hold if from flexing, which could create stresses in the 6 bolt pattern.
FWIW I ran an Atlas for probably 12 years on the back of a TH350 behind a 6.0 LS motor with never a problem of bolts loosening up.

 

[Bebop]

Why don't you believe in the atlas output mount? I don't get the warm fuzzies when I think about 120lbs of transfer case holding on by what, 6 studs?

Proper vs Over constrained system.
This is why every automotive manufacturer has a 3 point engine mounting system, every offroad truck attachment is mounted with 3 points to the frame, etc

Like I said yesterday to someone who was asking me the same question, I may eat my words tomorrow, but I've been beating the shit out of my rig with an atlas hanging off a stock cased TH400 and have had no issues so far.

Same reason why it's important to have 1 bushing at the case and not a cross-member with 2 bushings at the frame side.

This is no good :

This is good:

Would be even better with the bushing bolt longitudinally vs transversal.

 

[Bggrnchvy]

Maritime engineering uses the term raft mounting which I think is very appropriate.

Basically picture the drivetrain as your raft floating in the frame. You want to eliminate loading the raft from the frame (and in maritime usage isolate raft vibration from the frame/hull), even as you twist the frame while articulating. The best way to to do that is to make sure there are eventually only 3 points of elastic contact.

If you want to isolate the moment on the t-case adapter and studs by supporting the tail, the best solution to keep that plan would be build a moment frame from t-case tail to trans adapter and put the bushing under that in the first 1/3 length. Of course then you have to have enough room under the t-case to do that...

The 4th mount people add on the t-case output, especially if there's a doubler, when mounted below at or just below centerline seems to be the acceptably easy trade off between theoretically correct and functional. Plenty don't do anything on the back with the 2spd Atlas.

 

[chaplinfj60]

so basically i call that the supported "T " if that makes since. green are bushing red are solid engine and tcase move as one without bind.

 

[chaplinfj60]

so basically i call that the supported "T " if that makes since. green are bushing red are solid engine and tcase move as one without bind.

damit i forgot to circle the other engine mount lol

 

[Wisconsinite]

damit i forgot to circle the other engine mount lol

 

[Wisconsinite]

It looks like it would be easy enough to grab those bellhousing bolts and possibly gusset the back side of the lower tab to make it pretty damn rigid.

I took the advice of adding a little strenght to the carrier bearing mount. I added a plate gusset to the bottom tab, and also added another tab with a 5/8" bolt. I know the bolt is overkill, but it was easier than turning a bushing, pressing it into the trans housing, and then making a tab with a 3/8" or 1/2" bolt.

I decided to mount the battery in the subframe on the passenger side of the transfer case. This will keep a heavy component as low as possible, and free up a lot of space in the engine bay.

I also got the exhaust knocked out this weekend. 1/2" stainless LS3 manifold flanges, 2.5" 304ss tubing, 4" OAL flex pipe, 4" x 14" Magnaflow, vibrant performance V-band clamp, and factory camaro exhaust tips.

After a few test pieces, I was happy with the welds!

This was my first time using V-band clamps on an exhaust build, I never considered them due to the cost. After my experience with them this weekend, I will try to budget them into the project budget for any exhaust build. I bet I had the driver side tail pipe off 15 times trimming the tube to get the exhaust tip where I wanted it. It was really painless with a v-band, where a standard u-bolt or band clamp would have sucked big time.

 

[Wisconsinite]

 

[Bebop]

Crazy how time flies. I took a little time off from working on the jeep, but am back on it now.

Let's start with the trans cooler. I bought this second hand from RaceDezert, it was only used for mockup. It was a tight fit, but it is nestled up in the grill and should be good to go.

Hey man,

I tried sending you a PM but it seems like you have that function deactivated.

Kartek sells that same cooler but doesn't list the dimensions.

Would you be so kind and measure for me/us the overall width, height and depth with the fans on ?

Thanks a lot !

 

[Wisconsinite]

 

[Wisconsinite]

Hey man,

I tried sending you a PM but it seems like you have that function deactivated.

Kartek sells that same cooler but doesn't list the dimensions.

Would you be so kind and measure for me/us the overall width, height and depth with the fans on ?

Thanks a lot !

Done. Let me know if you need anything else.

 

[Bebop]

You're the man !
Thank you.

 

[Wisconsinite]

On Friday, a buddy stopped over for some beers and we got on the topic of power steering coolers, and where I'm going to mount mine. I hadn't gotten to that point quite yet, and wouldn't mind some input from anyone following along.

I am running a PSC CBR pump and reservoir w/ filter. I have two options for the cooler, one is a PSC single pass super flow heat sink fluid cooler, and the other is a Griffin 19 x 6 x 1.75" cooler.

The front of the engine compartment is starting to fill up fast, my initial thought was to mount the PSC cooler off the shock hoop cross bar/ upper radiator mount. That would be quick and easy, and in close proximity to the steering resi and orbital. One of the down sides to this location is it would not get a lot of air flow, another is it would be in the way of doing anything with the accessory drive. One thing to note, I am flipping my intake so there will not be a throttle body or intake system there.

Then my buddy asked about the option of mounting it lower, directly behind the radiator. That would ensure it would not drain back to the resi, and would also be in close proximity to the steering resi and orbital. Is getting hot air better than no air? I would angle the cooler to match the radiator for more clearance at the fans. I had that little tray sitting in the scrap pile, and would be easy enough to mount with some tabs coming off the shock tubes.

WWID?

 

[Wisconsinite]

My parents came down and visited for the weekend, and we wanted to knock out a quick and visually rewarding project together. Enter Jeep bro mode. Hahaha. I traded some coil springs for a new rigid light bar with some small blemishes, and purchased a motobilt TJ 50" light bar mount. I was told the light bar was 50", and never bothered to verify. The mounting width is 51.75. I slightly modified the brackets and boom, let there be light!

 

[Lilyota]

You gotta loose that rubber spacer on the carrier.

I had something similar and ended up breaking all the bolts out of mine, I was also worried about the noise factor.

I couldn't even tell the difference.

 

[Wisconsinite]

You gotta loose that rubber spacer on the carrier.

I had something similar and ended up breaking all the bolts out of mine, I was also worried about the noise factor.

I couldn't even tell the difference.

No shit huh? What size bolts?

 

[Lilyota]

1/2"

4 of them

 

[Wisconsinite]

^holy crap.

 

[Fl-Krawler]

I think you will find that the cooler mounted behind the radiator like that is going to heat the fluid. I have put a temp gauge on a few different steering systems and they run 120 ish degrees with no cooler and normal driving/wheeling. That is quite a bit cooler than the air coming off that radiator

 

[mobil1syn]

that cooler is overkill for you application and as FI-Krawler mentioned will be getting blasted with hot air.

i would look into a radial dynamics or howe in line cooler. mount it in front of the radiator or on the vertical tube to the left of the radiator.