A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

https://i.imgur.com/RuxaxN8.jpg?1
Stupid question probably, but are the teardrop shaped pieces just to prevent future stress cracks or something?

I have a bunch of them as well since I have the Goatbuilt subframe and link mounts. I am also using them on the shock brackets. They are .120 thick and most of the Goatbuilt parts are made from Domex100XF sheet at .1875 so it brings it up to .3075 thick which gives a larger bearing area for the bolt to prevent elongation and tear out if the bolt clamping force is low or loose.
Part of the tear drop shape is because that is the only shape that will fit on some tight areas.
I ordered extras of the tear drops for reinforcing other things, I believe they come in 1/2" and 5/8" ID holes

 

[Drummer79]

The weld washers add thickness to the bolted area to prevent the hole from wallowing out.

I can understand that, so i guess you point the teardrop in the direction it might wear in in the future, for more backing material?

 

[Wisconsinite]

Dang, time flies when you are having fun. I can't believe I haven't updated since October........

 

[Wisconsinite]

Starting on the chassis now. The main frame is constructed from 2X3X.120 rectangular tubing, the main cage is 2X.120 DOM, fender tubes are 2X2X.120 square, and pretty much everything else is 1.75X.120 DOM.

We set up the fixture kit on the fab tables and got to work! I spent a few hours cleaning all the tubes and removing mill scale from the areas to be welded.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Main frame rails are tacked, and the main cage is starting to take shape.

Main cage is tacked, and rear fender tubes are in. The holes in the outside of the tubes are for attaching corner armor.

I tossed on a stinger from a different project to see how the front end would come together.

Rear bump mount cutouts

Pretty much a roller at this point......lol

 

[Wisconsinite]

Flipped the chassis to install the subframe and do some welding.

Built a little roller cart that has been super handy. Wheeled it outside to get some pictures.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Built a redneck rotisserie out of some sumner jack stands and scrap DOM tube tacked to the chassis. It worked really really well, and made working on it by myself much easier. I got a lot of the chassis welded at this point, and started fitting the skid plates. They are .158" Domex100.

 

[Wisconsinite]

I know there were some comments on how many pictures are in this thread, if you want less let me know.

 

[Yotota]

I know there were some comments on how many pictures are in this thread, if you want less let me know.

 

[No way]

I know there were some comments on how many pictures are in this thread, if you want less let me know.

Less pics in a build thread??

 

[Blase]

More pictures the better!!! I like how you are taking the time to make all these little fixtures....wish I'd have done that.

I've never heard of Domex100. Is that similur to AR400/500?

 

[csutton7]

flat out awesome

 

[Bebop]

I know there were some comments on how many pictures are in this thread, if you want less let me know.

We need more !!!! Always more !!!

Badass job you're doing !

 

[Bggrnchvy]

I'm building a Goatbuilt as well (but an Ibex), nice to see more chassis on here in different forms.

More pictures the better!!! I like how you are taking the time to make all these little fixtures....wish I'd have done that.

I've never heard of Domex100. Is that similur to AR400/500?

100ksi yield very formable, weldable plate. It's got less carbon, 30% more manganese but no chromium or nickel compared to AR400. It's not as hard, nor as strong but it forms better because it's 60% more ductile. Domex100XF ductility is right in the middle of A36 and AR400 basically. Think of it like much improved A36 rather than AR400. The subframe and all the tab and trusses made from Domex100XF was pretty much the reason I went Goatbuilt myself.

 

[Wisconsinite]

I'm building a Goatbuilt as well (but an Ibex), nice to see more chassis on here in different forms.

100ksi yield very formable, weldable plate. It's got less carbon, 30% more manganese but no chromium or nickel compared to AR400. It's not as hard, nor as strong but it forms better because it's 60% more ductile. Domex100XF ductility is right in the middle of A36 and AR400 basically. Think of it like much improved A36 rather than AR400. The subframe and all the tab and trusses made from Domex100XF was pretty much the reason I went Goatbuilt myself.

Well there ya go, saved me some typing.. Haha.

 

[Will Scarlet]

I know there were some comments on how many pictures are in this thread, if you want less let me know.

 

[CDA 455 II]

HOLY TOLEDO!!1!


Build/weld pron!!!

 

[Wisconsinite]

Going through my photo album for this build makes me realize how much I jumped around and how disorganized this build has been. I have been working from the rear forwards. My thought process was gain confidence in myself before I get to the engine, steering, and front end.

Anyway, I started working on the rear interior and fuel tank mount.

We worked with Savvy to make a bracket to bolt their fuel tank skid to our chassis. It worked out really well.

Most of the interior panels are .080" aluminum, with the fuel tank cover and rear floor section being .125" aluminum for more strength.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Going to be jumping around a bit as parts come in.

Put the finshing touches on the front axle by fitting and welding up the Spidertrax knuckle gussets.

Then I got a shipment from Fox :) Being 30, debt free, single, no house and no kids some times has it's advantages. If I spend too much on #raceparts, the only person on this planet it effects is myself. Pretty sure I ate white rice and eggs for a while to be able to afford these. Haha. But man they are pretty.

Front :

Fox 2.0 X 14 RRB coil over with -10 heims
Fox 3.0 X 14 4 tube bypass
Fox 2.0 X 3 air bump

Rear

Fox 2.0 X 12 RRB coil over with -10 heims
Fox 3.0 X 12 4 tube bypass
Fox 2.0 X 3 air bump

 

[Wisconsinite]

Tossed on the rear shocks and slung the axle underneath to get a feel for how everything was going to fit.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Before I started at Goatbuilt, I was working on a 81 CJ5, nasty spring over "kit" and bald 36's. I legit didn't know what a bypass was until I started working here. I have learned so much in the last five years, it is crazy when I think about it. Shit, I had never held a tig torch until this project.

 

[06h3]

Before I started at Goatbuilt, I was working on a 81 CJ5, nasty spring over "kit" and bald 36's. I legit didn't know what a bypass was until I started working here. I have learned so much in the last five years, it is crazy when I think about it. Shit, I had never held a tig torch until this project.

Your welding skills are insane for a guy who never touched a tig torch until you started working for Goatbuilt. Were you an enthusiast? What made you want to work for them? I am shocked they hired someone with no experience (unless you have it in something else like CAD)

 

[Wisconsinite]

In my opinion, I had a pretty solid background. I worked at an auto shop during highscool and college, have a degree in mechanical design and manufacturing, was a certified weld inspector with five years of quality control experience, and five years of non-destructive testing experience. And I can pass a drug test.

I "built" a yj in highschool and was working on a CJ when I moved down here to work for him.

 

[06h3]

In my opinion, I had a pretty solid background. I worked at an auto shop during highscool and college, have a degree in mechanical design and manufacturing, was a certified weld inspector with five years of quality control experience, and five years of non-destructive testing experience. And I can pass a drug test.

I "built" a yj in highschool and was working on a CJ when I moved down here to work for him.

Nevermind, you have a ton of experience lol. Been enjoying this build and like all the pictures.

 

[Wisconsinite]

I grew up in small town Wisconsin where the cows outnumbered the residents by a factor of 5:1. We didn't have ultra 4 or hard core rock buggies. We had mud trucks and rust piles.

I had a TJ project I bought from the owner of Goatbuilt, and was all hot and bothered to have a built 44 and a rock jock 60. Then I went to KOH, decided I want to go fast (story of my life), and built a buggy. It has been a huge learning experiance for me, and an undertaking like I have never done before. I am stoked to be close to plumbing and wiring and hoping to at least have it move on its own power this summer.

 

[Wisconsinite]

When I started this build, I was using the drive train I had put together for the previous TJ project. 4.8l LS, reman 4l60, Atlas 3.8. This build escalated quickly, and the 4L60 was no longer in the cards. I upgraded to a built full manual 4L80. I needed to swap out the 27 spline output shaft for the 32 spline variety.

I got the my mock up block, core 4L80, and atlas married together and dropped in the chassis. It's tight, but it fits.

 

[Wisconsinite]

At this point, we decide to take it KOH and use it in our booth, so its game on to get it as far as possible.

Cut some front shock mounts out of 2X4X.250 wall tubing, added .125" domex weld washers, then tacked them in place.

Also, fit these blingin and badass rub rails. 1.75" 7075 machined for 1/2-13 SHCS, and solid steel weld on bungs threaded for 1/2-13.

EDIT: I didn't weld these.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Huge props to Austin for putting this forum together and making it easier to post pictures on a build thread. Thank you!!

Fit the rear Anti-Rock sway bar and arms, made a little tab for the axle side end link.

Then started working on the corner armor. These are Savvy blank LJ corners. Since they were blank, I had to cut the wheel opening, and man, that was nerve wracking. I installed the corners, brought the axle to full bump and strapped it in position. I then wrapped a piece of tig filler rod around the axle tube and twisted it back on itself. This made a smooth ring to slide around the axle tube. Electrical wire turned out to be too grippy with the insulation, and the rope I had didn't work either. Then tied a piece of string to my tig filler loop, and attached a sharpie at 20" from axle centerline and drew my arc. It was kind of ghetto, but produced an acceptable arc. I cut it out with the plas, and cleaned it up with my flap wheel.

On page one, I referenced my buddy who helped weld the axles. His shop is Fyrehill fab, and I figured the least I could do for all his hours of help is toss his logo on my rig. Polished stainless badge on the rear axle.

 

[Wisconsinite]

There was a major time crunch getting it ready for KOH, and I failed to take many pictures. I cut a TJ tub to bits, and got it 75% the way there. Chopped up a hood, tossed the front axle and shocks in, added Savvy TJ aluminum bumpers, and made it a roller!!! This was a big day for me.

And off to KOH 2020. Made the 2100 mile journey in just over 40 hours.

 

[Eric]

Nice work! Do you know what the bare chassis w/ skid plates weighs?