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60's Coot Atv thing

If you look at his picture you can see the belt sitting on top of the sheeve. It is not set down in the pulley. The very outside of the belt should be within the outer diameter of the driven. The driven is not shifting at all and as the primary is trying to shift it is pulling on the motor mounts.
it does look to be sitting on top but the angle part of the belt is inside the sheaves on the driven.

It def does not look right but to me getting the engine / trans solid mounted needs to be the first step as the force being applied to the belt is lost by the rocking motion of the engine.

I think with more belt tension the belt may be into the driven sheave further instead of sitting on top of it.

My belts on all my UTVs are def much tighter then his.
 
How far is the engine shaft centerline above the transmission input shaft centerline?
The one picture looks like you have 5 pieces of 2x under it or 7.5" plus the distance from the base of the engine to the shaft center.
Center to center on the pullies is about 7"
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As for the price, the 1" is cheaper than the 3/4":
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Aaron Z
Those got cheap. I remember it being about $100 in Northern Hydraulics around 1995.... about $200 in today's $$.
 
It's the belt spec'ed for the coot. I can't say if that is the original clutch tho. That "spacer" behind the clutch looks suspicious.

It's a 1 3/16 belt.

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This pulley looks stuck. see the gap behind the nuts? The belt should force the pulley open and that gap would close up.
 
This pulley looks stuck. see the gap behind the nuts? The belt should force the pulley open and that gap would close up.
There is a spring forcing it closed from the other side however.
 
Then look into shorter belt, shifting motor or adding in an idler/tensioner. got to get that thing into the groove.
 
Does this secondary seem super odd? No ramps, just bolts and a spring?

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you can see the wear mark where the belt needs to get to.

edit to add be sure its not stuck. Same kind of arrangement on a J head Bridgeport. I have seen them stuck before...
 
I think a new secondary is in order if I can get that one off. May have to pull the gearbox out.....

Ill check for stuckness
 
Ordered a new driven clutch, the one that is spec'ed for the Coot. Its 9 1/2" OD, which seems a little bigger than the one that is there. But I did not put a tape on the old one. Hopefully that helps, because they are stupid $
 
Got the old clutch off. Lots of pb. 8' bar and 5lb sledge....

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Shaft isn't fucked. Only had one key in it.
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And apparently you have to take the fucking transmission out to get the clutch on the shaft.
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And my research says it needs to go springs/ramps towards the gearbox correct? Because I'm not sure I can make the engine fit....
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If both sheaves are moving can't the secondary be mounted either way?
 
If both sheaves are moving can't the secondary be mounted either way?
I can't tell by your picture. Are the ramps on the clutch symetrical? If so then you should be able to mount it either direction. There are non symetrical secondary clutches out there on golf carts.
 
I can't tell by your picture. Are the ramps on the clutch symetrical? If so then you should be able to mount it either direction. There are non symetrical secondary clutches out there on golf carts.
I think both have a fixed sheave? I'm no expert tho.

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I think both have a fixed sheave? I'm no expert tho.

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So, with this picture and one of your earlier ones, it looks like the shifting ramps are symetrical. That makes is equally applying in either direction. Run it.
 
The movable side needs to be on the same side for both of them to keep the belt in line when it shifts.
 
The movable side needs to be on the same side for both of them to keep the belt in line when it shifts.
Thanks, that way my thinking as well. So clutch/ramps/springs out for both driven and primary clutch. It would eat belts the other way around.

I started to pull the gearbox/trans out yesterday. Unfortunately I cant get the cutch on in place.

Also only one key was in the shaft, I assume I should have two?
 
Ok Color me confused.

Here is the alignment needed to have the move able sheave on the proper side, be able to get the trans into reverse and not hit the engine/trans mount....

Could there have been that big of a spacer on the shaft? Maybe that's why there's two keyways cut?

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Here is a couple screen grabs from YT of an original clutch. It sure looks like the fixed sheave is away from the trans?!

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And here is someone using the same clutches I have (Coot replacement ones)
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And another original showing both clutches
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New motor mounts burned in.

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I split the difference between the clutches. The wide-angle that makes it look much more crooked than it is. It's an 1/8 off at most


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But I think I spaced them too far apart, I can not get between gears unless I turn the engine off.......
 
Drill a new set of holes 3/4"-1" over and torch out between them to make it a slot a slot?

Aaron Z
That would be fine and dandy if I did weld everything together :lmao: I made studs for the engine since I was feeling lazy....

Any idea how much the belt will stretch?
 
Not shifting when running is belt / clutch issue.

With that said for your purposes just run the damn thing, turn it off to shift
 
Not shifting when running is belt / clutch issue.

With that said for your purposes just run the damn thing, turn it off to shift
Yeah definitely too tight and maybe the off center is an issue too.

Turning it off to shift kinda sucks.... Reverse is helpful, otherwise I wouldn't care.

FWIW it will climb the fence :smokin:
 
Well either I over filled the shit out of the gearbox or it has a massive leak

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And hoot fuck are these tires rusted on. That is a bottle Jack between the rim and tire...

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It took me 6 hours to get two tires done. They are so rusted to the wheel it's ridiculous.

The new tires are a lot wider, going to make steering angle suck even more.

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