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60's Coot Atv thing

Java230 said:
GX runs, just needs a recoil, and possibly muffler. Muffler is ok, but leaks it seems. And convert to go kart style throttle
Click to expand...
Converting to the go-kart style throttle likely just involves backing off 1/4 turn on the tension nut on the throttle lever pivot.
Or at least that's the way the one I put on a go-kart last month worked.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Converting to the go-kart style throttle likely just involves backing off 1/4 turn on the tension nut on the throttle lever pivot.
Or at least that's the way the one I put on a go-kart last month worked.

Aaron Z
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Yes but I ran into many more issues...
 
Java230 said:
I'm an idiot. Unless I want to use the driveshaft as a carrier baring....
20230403_173207.jpg


And clutch spacing is shit. There is a spacer on the transmission that looks 'aftermarket' but I can't get that nut loose....
20230403_173108.jpg
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What if you put a "torque converter" on the output of the engine clocked down and then put a chain to the input the transmission?
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Torque-Converter-Clutch-Predator-Replacement/dp/B07S3TX4C5/
Screenshot_20230403-205041-452.png


Aaron Z
 
Java230 said:
Makes everything taller. This already has a cvt/Torque converter built in.... The ones for the 1" shaft are $ too.

And I had to pound the key into the keyway :homer:
Click to expand...
How far is the engine shaft centerline above the transmission input shaft centerline?
The one picture looks like you have 5 pieces of 2x under it or 7.5" plus the distance from the base of the engine to the shaft center.
Center to center on the pullies is about 7"
Screenshot_20230403-212655-512.png


As for the price, the 1" is cheaper than the 3/4":
Screenshot_20230403-212225-089.png


Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
How far is the engine shaft centerline above the transmission input shaft centerline?
The one picture looks like you have 5 pieces of 2x under it or 7.5" plus the distance from the base of the engine to the shaft center.
Center to center on the pullies is about 7"
Screenshot_20230403-212655-512.png


As for the price, the 1" is cheaper than the 3/4":
Screenshot_20230403-212225-089.png


Aaron Z
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It's supposed to be 15 5/8 I belive center to center on the output and input shafts.

I need ~6-6.5" of riser.

But it won't work around the driveshaft
 
Bubba has been here. Figured I'd pull the plate off and see. I think we have some progress. It's already hacked, may as well hack some more. Aluminum plate was JB Welded? Maybe on.... Would have leaked a lot anyway. A bit of trimming and we are real close.

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Dropping it lower gets under that rib on the back side, which makes belt line up much better.
 
How exact does cvt belt spacing need to be? I see specs of 15 5/8 I'm about 16. But it seems loose?

Hacked the tub enough to idle and get the belt running straight ish. Need 3" spacers.

Do i really need adjustment for the belt tension?

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driven clutch also doesn't seem to engage. It's not changing diameter at all? The primary does. But my motor mounts are not the strongest :flipoff2:

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dave_dj1 said:
shorter belt?
Yes there is a spec
small amount of deflection downwards in the center. I would say probably 3/4"
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This is the spec'ed belt. I'll check center distance again. Definitely more than 3/4 deflection.

It's 56" belt iirc
 
Does this secondary seem super odd? No ramps, just bolts and a spring?

20230416_181200.jpg
 
Java230 said:
Does this secondary seem super odd? No ramps, just bolts and a spring?

20230416_181200.jpg
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No that is normal looking, I have the same design on my Yamaha SxS's

However, the sheeves in that look awful, I do not see a belt lasting very long at all. Have you tried cleaning that up? Use red scotchbright on it. Should be some screwholes in it to run some bolts to open it up for better cleaning.

This is of course once you get your other issues sorted out. The belt should be in there tight, yours is way too loose.
 
crispins said:
No that is normal looking, I have the same design on my Yamaha SxS's

However, the sheeves in that look awful, I do not see a belt lasting very long at all. Have you tried cleaning that up? Use red scotchbright on it. Should be some screwholes in it to run some bolts to open it up for better cleaning.

This is of course once you get your other issues sorted out. The belt should be in there tight, yours is way too loose.
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Thanks.

No have not cleaned it.

Seems I need to tension beyond stock specs.
 
crispins said:
No that is normal looking, I have the same design on my Yamaha SxS's

However, the sheeves in that look awful, I do not see a belt lasting very long at all. Have you tried cleaning that up? Use red scotchbright on it. Should be some screwholes in it to run some bolts to open it up for better cleaning.

This is of course once you get your other issues sorted out. The belt should be in there tight, yours is way too loose.
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Ok belt tensioned. It still doesn't change ratio at all.... Thoughts? I have a new primary..... Comet 780
 
ok, i have been reading your thread as you have posted it so it has been awhile.

The primary is one you found that fits this not necessarily the correct one, right?

The Primary will move at its spec'd RPM's based on the weights inside of it.

As you RPM the engine does the primary move in and out at all?

What type of engine was it made for?
 
crispins said:
ok, i have been reading your thread as you have posted it so it has been awhile.

The primary is one you found that fits this not necessarily the correct one, right?

The Primary will move at its spec'd RPM's based on the weights inside of it.

As you RPM the engine does the primary move in and out at all?

What type of engine was it made for?
Click to expand...
Primary is close to original spec. Comet 780.

Primary moves easily with rpm. Moves in and out easily.

Secondary doesn't seem to move.

It was made for a vertical cylinder tschumesh I belive, 8-11hp ish . I am trying to get a 45 degree gx 390 to fit.
 
Java230 said:
Primary is close to original spec. Comet 780.

Primary moves easily with rpm. Moves in and out easily.

Secondary doesn't seem to move.

It was made for a vertical cylinder tschumesh I belive, 8-11hp ish . I am trying to get a 45 degree gx 390 to fit.
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ah, ok.

Then I think your belt has to be way too loose.

Can you post a video of what it is doing?
 
crispins said:
ah, ok.

Then I think your belt has to be way too loose.

Can you post a video of what it is doing?
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Yeah if it's not puking rain I'll get one this afternoon. Bel just smokes on the pulley. It does try to move a bit if you put it in gear. But I think I'm going to have to move the engine lower and more outboard. Belt just touches the driveshaft
 
Obviously not ths stiffest motor mounts.... But no secondary movement

 
Java230 said:
Obviously not ths stiffest motor mounts.... But no secondary movement

Click to expand...


Better pic of how the belt fits into the secondary please.

That video it looks like the belt is too wide

EDIT IDK, it is odd what it is doing.

I don't think the belt is the wrong size.

I have seen them operate a ton on my units but that one just seems weird and I don't get it, hopefully someone else can see what is wrong.
 
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It's the belt spec'ed for the coot. I can't say if that is the original clutch tho. That "spacer" behind the clutch looks suspicious.

It's a 1 3/16 belt.

20230419_194833.jpg
 
I'm gonna guess not original.... No bolt, no key (or sheared).... Fuck me.
20230419_195108.jpg
 
watching your video like 10 times and I think I am seeing it.

As the primary starts to open the motor shifts over and forward, correct?

So the belt does not have much movement in the primary so it cannot pull into the secondary.

Basically making the belt the same size so it then has no pull on the secondary.
 
also how much RPM do you think you got it to?

The primary is barely moving and I am thinking the weights are too heavy for the RMP range you are using.

Step 1) get the engine mounted better, I think that is what needs to happen before any further diagnosing.
 
crispins said:
watching your video like 10 times and I think I am seeing it.

As the primary starts to open the motor shifts over and forward, correct?

So the belt does not have much movement in the primary so it cannot pull into the secondary.

Basically making the belt the same size so it then has no pull on the secondary.
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Yes it does move a bit. It's just ratchet straps..... Trying to find motor placement before I get too far along. So yes, it's definately loosing some pull on the secondary.

But I'm thinking of just getting a new one at this point.
 
crispins said:
also how much RPM do you think you got it to?

The primary is barely moving and I am thinking the weights are too heavy for the RMP range you are using.

Step 1) get the engine mounted better, I think that is what needs to happen before any further diagnosing.
Click to expand...
Just assume the center to center for the coot is correct? It's 15 5/8 I belive.

I need to drop engine lower and further outboard. But that spacing seems too close for the belt tension.

Prob 2500 ish rpm
 
If you look at his picture you can see the belt sitting on top of the sheeve. It is not set down in the pulley. The very outside of the belt should be within the outer diameter of the driven. The driven is not shifting at all and as the primary is trying to shift it is pulling on the motor mounts.
 
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