What's new

6.7 Super Duty Maintenence/Mods

I was going to say I don't have Sport mode...

It's on the to-do list now, does it add sport mode icon in the drive mode screen?

Im not actually sure, I never thought to look but when you double tap the traction control button a message pops up on the dash that says Advanstrac off Sport Mode. If you do it while moving you can clearly feel the transmission do something different like lock the converter in instead of constantly slipping it.

It resets every time you shut the truck off.
 
Im not actually sure, I never thought to look but when you double tap the traction control button a message pops up on the dash that says Advanstrac off Sport Mode. If you do it while moving you can clearly feel the transmission do something different like lock the converter in instead of constantly slipping it.

It resets every time you shut the truck off.
I am familiar with that mode, I never use it cause this som bitch burns back tires up so fucking fast it doesn't need any help.

The F150's and the Tremor I think both have a Sport mode in the drive mode selection.
 
Im not actually sure, I never thought to look but when you double tap the traction control button a message pops up on the dash that says Advanstrac off Sport Mode. If you do it while moving you can clearly feel the transmission do something different like lock the converter in instead of constantly slipping it.

It resets every time you shut the truck off.
IIRC, tap and hold for ~10 seconds and something, something, something, need new tires.
 
Looking again to buy a ESP for my mom got some confusing info so I emailed Granger.


1724342199295.png


and her response

Weldon,

It depends on how old the vehicle is and how many miles are on the vehicle.

If your vehicle is under 41 months old and has under 40,999 miles, the warranty will start on the in-service date of the vehicle with 0 miles.

If your vehicle is over that but under 10 years old and has under 80,000 miles with warranty will start on the day you purchase the warranty with the current miles on your vehicle right.
 
Which doesn't really answer if the mileage purchased is in addition to the vehicle mileage or just congruently with the existing mileage.
I sent another email...
 
Last edited:
So I emailed back to ask this

"So If I buy a ESP plan for 4 year/ 60k miles on my 2020 Explorer with 42k miles on it now would I have warranty coverage until 2028 and or 102k miles?"

She replied this
"Yes, that is going to be correct."
 
Well I guess I got what I deserve for defending these stupid complex fucks so much. :homer:

Left for a 900 mile 1 way trip today, pop up camper and samurai on the trailer. About an hour from home, we start up a slight hill at 70. Truck starts shaking like I'm losing a U joint. I let off and it get better as I'm slowing down. Get back in it and there no power. Starts making some noise, limp off the road, it's knocking a little, sounds like injector knock. Shows the oil symbol (dumb poverty screen, so doesn't say high or low or whatever, just oil can) pop the hood and it dies. When I cycle the key, it shows the temp guage is pegged and is dinging high temp. I'll admit, I didn't think to look at the temp guage when it first acted up, but I'd think it would have dinged at me before it got that hot? Will not crank, acts hydrolocked.

Fucked around for the last 6 hours getting everything home, but threw codes po266, po269, po272 and po275 which are cyl 2, 3, 4 and 5. Power contribution issue.

Seems oddly odd that 4 injectors would go bad at once :homer: guessing cp4 issue?
 
Well I guess I got what I deserve for defending these stupid complex fucks so much. :homer:

Left for a 900 mile 1 way trip today, pop up camper and samurai on the trailer. About an hour from home, we start up a slight hill at 70. Truck starts shaking like I'm losing a U joint. I let off and it get better as I'm slowing down. Get back in it and there no power. Starts making some noise, limp off the road, it's knocking a little, sounds like injector knock. Shows the oil symbol (dumb poverty screen, so doesn't say high or low or whatever, just oil can) pop the hood and it dies. When I cycle the key, it shows the temp guage is pegged and is dinging high temp. I'll admit, I didn't think to look at the temp guage when it first acted up, but I'd think it would have dinged at me before it got that hot? Will not crank, acts hydrolocked.

Fucked around for the last 6 hours getting everything home, but threw codes po266, po269, po272 and po275 which are cyl 2, 3, 4 and 5. Power contribution issue.

Seems oddly odd that 4 injectors would go bad at once :homer: guessing cp4 issue?

Pull the sensor out of the top of the CP4 before you start that truck again and see if it's got glitter on the screen. If it does, you know what you have to do....
 
Pull the sensor out of the top of the CP4 before you start that truck again and see if it's got glitter on the screen. If it does, you know what you have to do....

I'm just taking it to a shop. I'm just not patient enough for that type of work.

I do have the s&s dpk, but obviously the injectors are fucked, so idk.

My question is, what are the odds the rods and whatnot are fine? Injectors and fuel pump would be tolerable, but I'm not sure this truck is worth dumping a new long block into.
 
I'm just taking it to a shop. I'm just not patient enough for that type of work.

I do have the s&s dpk, but obviously the injectors are fucked, so idk.

My question is, what are the odds the rods and whatnot are fine? Injectors and fuel pump would be tolerable, but I'm not sure this truck is worth dumping a new long block into.

It's possible the CP4 fucked off enough to lock up the motor and I've heard of it happening more than once. Unfortunately when that happens spinning the timing gear on the crank is possible and that can let the valves and pistons hit doing some serious damage.

It not spinning over after shutting off would worry me.
 
It's possible the CP4 fucked off enough to lock up the motor and I've heard of it happening more than once. Unfortunately when that happens spinning the timing gear on the crank is possible and that can let the valves and pistons hit doing some serious damage.

It not spinning over after shutting off would worry me.

That crossed my mind also. I would have thought that would have happened right away?

Also never same a CEL and non of the stored codes were low rail pressure.

Also curious what made it overheat rapidly
 
It's a diesel so fuel flow affects heat.

Since it still kind of ran I would suspect the lower end is just fine.

Interesting that it is those 4 cylinder codes, no real pattern.

Could be CP4, also could be ECM, wire harness issues. That is what I am hoping for.
 
I'm just taking it to a shop. I'm just not patient enough for that type of work.

I do have the s&s dpk, but obviously the injectors are fucked, so idk.

My question is, what are the odds the rods and whatnot are fine? Injectors and fuel pump would be tolerable, but I'm not sure this truck is worth dumping a new long block into.
Well that blows.
I wouldn't panic yet but with all the symptoms it doesn't sound like a simple fix.
 
It's a diesel so fuel flow affects heat.

Since it still kind of ran I would suspect the lower end is just fine.

Interesting that it is those 4 cylinder codes, no real pattern.

Could be CP4, also could be ECM, wire harness issues. That is what I am hoping for.

I hadn't even thought about electrical issues, I'd think that would have thrown way more codes, but I guess I could see the opposite also.

Well that blows.
I wouldn't panic yet but with all the symptoms it doesn't sound like a simple fix.

I'm not getting my hopes up to high either. At this point, I'd be happy if it was anything short of a whole engine.
 
The "hydrolocked" dragging is pretty classic galled CP4.
I would attempt to rule the CP4 out before trying to crank it anymore because the effect of that load on the crank is pretty detrimental if it slips the crank gear like slowpoke says.
 
I hadn't even thought about electrical issues, I'd think that would have thrown way more codes, but I guess I could see the opposite also.
When I was having issues and trying to diagnose I came across quite a few threads of people finding damaged or bad harness.

And even a bad ECMs.

I had a crank no start. Turns out my replacement pump was bad and failed in exactly the same way my original pump had failed. But it certainly had me scratching my head and looking for other options.

Didn't seem to be any one thing that pointed to a bad ECM except running issues. Back in the old days, like the engine fan would stay on and that was an indicator that the ECM was bad or going bad. The 6.7 doesn't seem to have any standards like that.

Anyway, it is going to the shop right? Hopefully they are smart enough and have the tools to figure that out.

Of all the spunk crank gears I read about, and I am sure there are others, but it seems like most of those cases the CP4 was making a loud screeching noise before hand, or the pump itself was locked and preventing the motor from turning over.

I truly hope you don't have some weird bizarre issues. Pretty sure you don't that stuff only happens to me.
 
When I was having issues and trying to diagnose I came across quite a few threads of people finding damaged or bad harness.

And even a bad ECMs.

I had a crank no start. Turns out my replacement pump was bad and failed in exactly the same way my original pump had failed. But it certainly had me scratching my head and looking for other options.

Didn't seem to be any one thing that pointed to a bad ECM except running issues. Back in the old days, like the engine fan would stay on and that was an indicator that the ECM was bad or going bad. The 6.7 doesn't seem to have any standards like that.

Anyway, it is going to the shop right? Hopefully they are smart enough and have the tools to figure that out.

Yes, they only work on diesels and seem to specialize in this generation of pickup. They have a good reputation around here.

Of all the spunk crank gears I read about, and I am sure there are others, but it seems like most of those cases the CP4 was making a loud screeching noise before hand, or the pump itself was locked and preventing the motor from turning over.

I truly hope you don't have some weird bizarre issues. Pretty sure you don't that stuff only happens to me.

You might have to welcome me as the 2nd member to that club :flipoff2:
 
So I’m considering a 23-24 with the SO diesel. Reading this makes me wonder if I need a lobotomy.


:homer:


Other than the basics, anything to consider about to 23+ 6.7s?
 
  • Like
Reactions: DMG
Already suggested. :flipoff2:

Honestly the Cummins of the same year is a lateral move at best. Really a step down imo.

12v into a 2016 would be comically bad though :laughing:

Exactly. The Dodge Cummins diesel isn't some great leap in power and performance vs the other manufacturers offerings these days like it used to be.
 
Exactly. The Dodge Cummins diesel isn't some great leap in power and performance vs the other manufacturers offerings these days like it used to be.

Never has been since the 7.3 powerstroke was introduced. Stock to stock, they were always equal or behind.

Obviously, they respond to light mods way better, but mostly always just overrated.

Sure, in 1989 when ford and Chevy were using non turbo idi's, the 6bt seemed like an upgrade. Although, even back then, it wasn't impressive bone stock. Hp and tq wasn't that different than a 6.9idi.

My buddy had a total grampa 91 Cummins 5 speed(actually the trucks name was grampa :laughing:) , first year of intercooler. Slowest fucking thing I've ever driven or riden in. Like insanely slow, to the point of being dangerous in traffic:laughing:. My other buddy had a 400k 6.9 4 speed on 38s that was turned up, but no turbo. It would absolutely blow its doors off empty. Hook a trailer up and the Cummins would walk it, but nothing to brag about.
 
The unkeyed crank gear on these 6.7s is a pretty fucking stupid design also. The guy at Dave's said they tig the gear on every rebuild they do to solve the problem.

There was some talk on FTE that there was some minor improvement to these in the 2020-21 time frame.
Do we know any details on that?
 
I am familiar with that mode, I never use it cause this som bitch burns back tires up so fucking fast it doesn't need any help.

The F150's and the Tremor I think both have a Sport mode in the drive mode selection.

Same. Thing has traction issues out of 4WD as it is. And locker is no use on the street.
Can't even swap back to a LS with ring gear welded to carrier.
 
Same. Thing has traction issues out of 4WD as it is.

It's the factory tires, they suck. I put a set of Wildpeak A/T's in the 255 flavor on the truck right after I bought it and the difference is night and day. I drive around in sport mode with the ABS off every day and don't have any traction issues.

Loose the shit tires and it will be a different animal
 
Top Back Refresh