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6.7 Super Duty Maintenence/Mods

YotaAtieToo said:
The company has a hard on for Chevy and just ordered 2 of the new 5500s. We'll see how they work.
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I am curious if they will have front tire vibration problems we have.
It will bounce the tire off the road above 65 mph...
 
CarterKraft said:
Laughs in MaxxForce 7
:flipoff2:
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They spin bearings. Valves drop. Turbo shafts break. They never lasted long enough for me to see fuel problems. PGE had a rash of the same problems. I think exhaust brake programming was off when they first came out.
 
Tractor Monger said:
They spin bearings. Valves drop. Turbo shafts break. They never lasted long enough for me to see fuel problems. PGE had a rash of the same problems. I think exhaust brake programming was off when they first came out.
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You want to see a shittier version of the 6.4 power stroke?

I give you the MaxxForce 7
 
CarterKraft said:
You want to see a shittier version of the 6.4 power stroke?

I give you the MaxxForce 7
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I work on them, and detroits occasionally. For a while you couldn’t get an International truck with an International engine…what does that tell ya.
 
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Good lord, you see it time and time again, doesnt matter the industry....a big company buys out a smaller company that kicks ass and then they drive the smaller company into the ground.
 
06h3 said:
Good lord, you see it time and time again, doesnt matter the industry....a big company buys out a smaller company that kicks ass and then they drive the smaller company into the ground.
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Yeah, but they made a shit ton of money for the shareholders in the short term
 
CarterKraft said:
Navistar is the clue...
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Navistar has existed as an entity since the mid 80’s. Produced great, for the time, engines for 2 decades under the Navistar banner. They lost their way in the early 2000’s with shitty leadership that didn’t understand the engineering demands of new EPA regulations and some shady accounting practices. The straw that damn near broke the camel’s back was the dropping of ISX15’s from MY 2010-2012 and only offering a Maxxforce option. They got killed in market share and are the smallest player in class 8 these days.
 
Am I being paranoid about my 10spd, or is there something this brain trust suggests I do?

Just cracked 90k on my 21 last week, I’ll lose my 100k warranty here pretty soon.

I over heated the shit out of the 10spd back at 40k, but all the dealer said it needed was trans fluid bypass valve / coolant bypass valve, and a flush. Apparently the valve had disintegrated and clogged the lines up causing the over heat issue.

It’s been fine temp wise and mostly fine the past 50k, but I get occasional bang down shift or clunky shifts. I’m talking probably once or twice every 10k miles. For that reason I doubt the dealer would “verify customer concern” and I’ll be out two plus weeks of my truck and the PITA that consists of.
I just don’t want this thing to shit the bed right outside warranty.

Do I just do another flush and filter change here soon and keep going, or any suggestions?
 
fl0w3n said:
Am I being paranoid about my 10spd, or is there something this brain trust suggests I do?

Just cracked 90k on my 21 last week, I’ll lose my 100k warranty here pretty soon.

I over heated the shit out of the 10spd back at 40k, but all the dealer said it needed was trans fluid bypass valve / coolant bypass valve, and a flush. Apparently the valve had disintegrated and clogged the lines up causing the over heat issue.

It’s been fine temp wise and mostly fine the past 50k, but I get occasional bang down shift or clunky shifts. I’m talking probably once or twice every 10k miles. For that reason I doubt the dealer would “verify customer concern” and I’ll be out two plus weeks of my truck and the PITA that consists of.
I just don’t want this thing to shit the bed right outside warranty.

Do I just do another flush and filter change here soon and keep going, or any suggestions?
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The only thing I'd do is try and make sure software is current in the TCM, and then do a reset.
 
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CarterKraft said:
The only thing I'd do is try and make sure software is current in the TCM, and then do a reset.
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Good idea. I’ll have to do some googling, all I have is Forscan which I’m guessing would let me see software version (no idea what’s current though) but I doubt it’s able to update anything.
 
fl0w3n said:
Good idea. I’ll have to do some googling, all I have is Forscan which I’m guessing would let me see software version (no idea what’s current though) but I doubt it’s able to update anything.
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Right you can't do updates with forscan.

We did my son's F150 power stroke ac compressor. His truck had been to ford for all the updates.

Doing the AC compressor the battery has to come out.

After we got it all back together he said it has never ran or shifted that good.

Maybe unhook the batteries over night? Might be easier than plugging into it.
 
What's the consensus on an upgraded or oil cooler or high oil temps? My 11 used to never have oil temps over 220 even with a big trailer hooked to it. I picked up a new to me trailer on Friday and hit 243 coming home with an empty trailer. All the rest of the temps (engine and tranny) are right where I would expect them to be but the oil temp is higher than it used to be. Stock truck, motorcraft 10w-30 oil.
 
speed bump said:
What's the consensus on an upgraded or oil cooler or high oil temps? My 11 used to never have oil temps over 220 even with a big trailer hooked to it. I picked up a new to me trailer on Friday and hit 243 coming home with an empty trailer. All the rest of the temps (engine and tranny) are right where I would expect them to be but the oil temp is higher than it used to be. Stock truck, motorcraft 10w-30 oil.
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I just run synthetic 5w-40 and let it eat.
I've seen it up there on my '18 don't recall watching it on the '22 but I'll look next month and report back.
 
speed bump said:
What's the consensus on an upgraded or oil cooler or high oil temps? My 11 used to never have oil temps over 220 even with a big trailer hooked to it. I picked up a new to me trailer on Friday and hit 243 coming home with an empty trailer. All the rest of the temps (engine and tranny) are right where I would expect them to be but the oil temp is higher than it used to be. Stock truck, motorcraft 10w-30 oil.
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Mine have all hit 240 when loaded heavy. Especially when the outside temp is 105 or so. The last one is still trucking along with 330k on the odometer.
 
CarterKraft said:
I just run synthetic 5w-40 and let it eat.
I've seen it up there on my '18 don't recall watching it on the '22 but I'll look next month and report back.
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I've heard that comment a lot. It's just odd that I used to see oil temps fairly close to the trans temp and now I don't.
 
speed bump said:
I've heard that comment a lot. It's just odd that I used to see oil temps fairly close to the trans temp and now I don't.
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It was over 100* ambient when I saw it too.
I'm i'll pay more attention next month and report back.
This engine has steel pistons vs my '18 that had aluminum.
 
Purely hypothetical non-governmental approved question - Lets say I acquired my 2011 6.7 probably 7 or 8 years ago deleted (EGR block-off, DPF removed, DEF disabled, with a mini-max). I was forward thinking enough to get the DPF unit at the time (which has been removed the second it was out of warranty by the prior owner). The time has come that it has to be at least partially un-deleted, because I don't want my GF to get pulled over in it, and I'm running out of inspection options. I'm comfortable getting stickered with the EGR still blocked, but I'm wondering if there is a way to make the DPF function without the DEF injection, or if its actually needed to get the EGT up high enough to regen?

This may become academic as the truck has 279k on the clock, and needs typical New England Body work, so I might just fully return to stock with a junkyard DEF tank and get rid of it. (the State just made an example of somebody selling a deleted truck private party, so I'm not going to opt for that route).
 
djljeep said:
Purely hypothetical non-governmental approved question - Lets say I acquired my 2011 6.7 probably 7 or 8 years ago deleted (EGR block-off, DPF removed, DEF disabled, with a mini-max). I was forward thinking enough to get the DPF unit at the time (which has been removed the second it was out of warranty by the prior owner). The time has come that it has to be at least partially un-deleted, because I don't want my GF to get pulled over in it, and I'm running out of inspection options. I'm comfortable getting stickered with the EGR still blocked, but I'm wondering if there is a way to make the DPF function without the DEF injection, or if its actually needed to get the EGT up high enough to regen?

This may become academic as the truck has 279k on the clock, and needs typical New England Body work, so I might just fully return to stock with a junkyard DEF tank and get rid of it. (the State just made an example of somebody selling a deleted truck private party, so I'm not going to opt for that route).
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If you can at least get all the parts back on it I think that would keep you out of trouble even if they don't work.

Do you have all the parts?

The minimax I have has a program for deleting WITH all the parts still in place.

I was having sensor problems. That is what I used to get home and delete the whole thing properly.

Or can you sell it as Off road only? Or something else have an exemption out there? Here in Iowa we can say Farm use only but we don't have an inspection program anyway.
 
djljeep said:
Purely hypothetical non-governmental approved question - Lets say I acquired my 2011 6.7 probably 7 or 8 years ago deleted (EGR block-off, DPF removed, DEF disabled, with a mini-max). I was forward thinking enough to get the DPF unit at the time (which has been removed the second it was out of warranty by the prior owner). The time has come that it has to be at least partially un-deleted, because I don't want my GF to get pulled over in it, and I'm running out of inspection options. I'm comfortable getting stickered with the EGR still blocked, but I'm wondering if there is a way to make the DPF function without the DEF injection, or if its actually needed to get the EGT up high enough to regen?

This may become academic as the truck has 279k on the clock, and needs typical New England Body work, so I might just fully return to stock with a junkyard DEF tank and get rid of it. (the State just made an example of somebody selling a deleted truck private party, so I'm not going to opt for that route).
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What are you trying to accomplish? You're all over the road. Do you want emissions intact or do you want to just pass visual inspection?
 
Snowy said:
What are you trying to accomplish? You're all over the road. Do you want emissions intact or do you want to just pass visual inspection?
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Sorry wrote that at 1:30 in the morning when I couldn't sleep.

I want a functional DPF (or a solution that will sound/look like it on a straight face test, and I'm not considering cutting/gutting the DPF an option), but I would prefer to have the DEF system disabled in place (so it looks right) if the DPF will function reliably without it. The DEF tank is still in the truck, but hasn't been used in 9 years I'm guessing, so there is a good chance the pump/heater may be compromised anyway - PO left some DEF in it and I never bothered to drain it/flush it - that's why I was considering a junkyard DEF tank if mine doesn't function, and I end up needing it for the DPF. I have the DPF sitting in a storage building (PO gave it to me with the truck)

EGR will remain blocked as long as I own it either way, I'm confident I can get the truck stickered like that and its not like anybody would know without popping the hood and knowing what they are looking at. That's straight forward enough to un-delete should I sell it.

I'm sure I could sell it to somebody who doesn't care, but my State has recently gone after somebody near me for selling a truck to a used car dealership with tampered emissions (like a $5k fine) and then the dealer for re-selling it (I can't recall but way more $). They've made it clear that transferring something deleted is playing with fire. So If I sell the truck I will return it to stock first, which I believe the minimax will let me do.
 
djljeep said:
Sorry wrote that at 1:30 in the morning when I couldn't sleep.

I want a functional DPF (or a solution that will sound/look like it on a straight face test, and I'm not considering cutting/gutting the DPF an option), but I would prefer to have the DEF system disabled in place (so it looks right) if the DPF will function reliably without it. The DEF tank is still in the truck, but hasn't been used in 9 years I'm guessing, so there is a good chance the pump/heater may be compromised anyway - PO left some DEF in it and I never bothered to drain it/flush it - that's why I was considering a junkyard DEF tank if mine doesn't function, and I end up needing it for the DPF. I have the DPF sitting in a storage building (PO gave it to me with the truck)

EGR will remain blocked as long as I own it either way, I'm confident I can get the truck stickered like that and its not like anybody would know without popping the hood and knowing what they are looking at. That's straight forward enough to un-delete should I sell it.

I'm sure I could sell it to somebody who doesn't care, but my State has recently gone after somebody near me for selling a truck to a used car dealership with tampered emissions (like a $5k fine) and then the dealer for re-selling it (I can't recall but way more $). They've made it clear that transferring something deleted is playing with fire. So If I sell the truck I will return it to stock first, which I believe the minimax will let me do.
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It would depend on the parameters available in the minimaxx. I'm not familiar enough with it to say for sure. Purely mechanically speaking, the DOC/DPF system operates largely independently of the SCR where the DEF is injected for NOX control.
 
Around me DPF usually runs about $1100 used at junk yard. Last time I checked Ebay had them from $500-$1500
 
DPF will not survive being installed but NOT regenning.
It is a 2 micron air filter with no way to clean itself.
 
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