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6.7 Super Duty Maintenence/Mods

Trying to get half the emissions to work without the other half sounds like a nightmare with likely less reliable results than running it all stock.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
I read the word visual somewhere in his posts and went with it. :laughing:

He either has to put it all back to stock with the correct parts and get it in working order or tell his wife to show her tits to the cops if they pull her over in it without being fixed.
:grinpimp:
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I had that thought too lol, how hot is the girlfriend 🤣
 
I have the DPF. I was toying with the idea of a junkyard DEF tank in the event mine is fucked.

The other question here is, will a DPF function without the DEF.

I’m aware going halfway sounds dumb, and it probably is. Several nights of sleep deprivation will create some interesting mental gymnastics. I’ll probably just end up undeleting the DPF/DEF with just the EGR blocked Like everybody else until I rid myself of the truck, but I can’t help thinking of ways to make it more complicated than it needs to be.
 
The DPF system is not related to the DEF system. Its possible to have one or the other but you will need the scr catalyst with no dpf if it needs to work.
 
got it, that was the link I was missing. A quick google brought me to this which makes more sense.
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Anyone else ever see a puff of white smoke on startup?

97k on my 21

Did a “cold” start this morning and happened to be standing at the tailgate when I hit the remote start. Got smoked out. Was confused.

I think I idle my truck too much… I passed out in the grocery store parking lot cranking the AC for like 45 minutes… I am thinking it was just unhappy because it probably started a regen on my drive back and hadn’t finished when I shut it down that night. Maybe that’s the smoke. Or maybe it’s going to blow up in 3k miles when my warranty is up :homer:
 
Define cold?

Idle smoke is no bueno, dripping injectors etc. start up puff may not bother me.
 
CarterKraft said:
Define cold?

Idle smoke is no bueno, dripping injectors etc. start up puff may not bother me.
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A brisk California 45ish F :laughing:
I was just pointing out it had been sitting since the day before when I parked it and this was the following morning.

It wasn’t idle smoke, just startup puff. Immediately reminded me of my old LB7 days. My first thought after being confused why I had a cloud in my face was my nephews had shoved something up my tail pipes when I wasn’t looking or condensation had collected but realized that wouldn’t have burned up instantly like that.
 
107k and mine just needed the #2 EGT sensor replaced. CEL and no derate. $150 from the dealer and less than 5 minutes to swap it.

It also got all 4 rotors, pads, and rear hub seals. Hubs were leaking into the parking brake and I had no idea. I'd been smelling gear oil but couldn't find any sign of a leak for the last year or so though. Got new gear oil, something approaching 7 quarts of oil. Rear wheel bearings still look great.

Edit: added my cost per mile spreadsheet

Ford Cost per mile.jpg
 
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Snowy said:
107k and mine just needed the #2 EGT sensor replaced. CEL and no derate. $150 from the dealer and less than 5 minutes to swap it.

It also got all 4 rotors, pads, and rear hub seals. Hubs were leaking into the parking brake and I had no idea. I'd been smelling gear oil but couldn't find any sign of a leak for the last year or so though. Got new gear oil, something approaching 7 quarts of oil. Rear wheel bearings still look great.

Edit: added my cost per mile spreadsheet

Ford Cost per mile.jpg
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Cool sheet, I might be able to do something like that to compare as well.

What year is your truck? I assume your brake change was the 3rd set? Both my Fords seem to just burn through brakes relative to the Chevy/GMC I’ve had. Granted completely different capabilities between the 01-06 GMs and the 15+ Fords, but I’ve had almost 200k on original brakes from the GM and probably 40k from the fords before they need pads.
 
fl0w3n said:
Cool sheet, I might be able to do something like that to compare as well.

What year is your truck? I assume your brake change was the 3rd set? Both my Fords seem to just burn through brakes relative to the Chevy/GMC I’ve had. Granted completely different capabilities between the 01-06 GMs and the 15+ Fords, but I’ve had almost 200k on original brakes from the GM and probably 40k from the fords before they need pads.
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It’s a 2012. I’d say the third set. It had new pads on it when I bought at 60k and they were about half worn when I did the most recent change. Front rotors were starting to warp and the rears were rusty as fuck so it just got everything to be done right.

The last tow rig was a 7.3 that perpetually had warped rotors or a stuck caliper. Made me bananas.

Two tow rigs ago was an 06 LBZ that the brakes wore like iron on with typical GM goofiness around abs modulation from time to time. I think that truck got one set of pads/rotors between 70k when we bought it and 250k when we sold it. Just one stuck caliper somewhere in there too.
 
So.........
I bought a 2012 F-250 6.7, 4WD, SRW, CC, Lots of Bluetooth "options" with 100k on it about a year ago. This shop has done all the work on the truck for the previous Owner
I have put about 2500 miles on it. Only towed my shitbox a couple of times.
Figured it needed all new fluids, filters, etc., and it "wanted" to start Death Wobble
I live in Pahrump, NV

Fluids and filters: Front and rear diffs, trans and filter, Xfer case, coolant, engine oil, fuel filters
Death Wobble: All new tie rods, drag ling, damper, track bar "upgrade", alignment

$4500

How bad did I get fucked?
 
If it was lifted at all. I would check the nut for the pitman arm before I spent any money. Have seen more than a few of them that were loose....
 
Bogus One said:
So.........
I bought a 2012 F-250 6.7, 4WD, SRW, CC, Lots of Bluetooth "options" with 100k on it about a year ago. This shop has done all the work on the truck for the previous Owner
I have put about 2500 miles on it. Only towed my shitbox a couple of times.
Figured it needed all new fluids, filters, etc., and it "wanted" to start Death Wobble
I live in Pahrump, NV

Fluids and filters: Front and rear diffs, trans and filter, Xfer case, coolant, engine oil, fuel filters
Death Wobble: All new tie rods, drag ling, damper, track bar "upgrade", alignment

$4500

How bad did I get fucked?
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You didn't have to get dirty :eek:
 
CarterKraft said:
You didn't have to get dirty :eek:
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I was just quoted $1000-$1100 for the first part from my local guy. I figured it was ~$800 in fluid and filters before I rolled my fat ass underneath the truck, so $300 for someone else to get dirty is worth it to me.

No idea on the front end stuff, but that seems really high.

Rod
2014 6.7PSD, CC, SB
 
The deal with paying someone else is just that, the deal...

I would never pay that for that work (or any work?) but I also don't trust anyone on my shit and am really tight ass.
Changing fluids is a job for the dumbest person at that company.. So I should be able to do it no problem.

Front end work is more importanter but $4500 sounds like a completely new axle assembly...
 
$1.025 = Fluids, Filters, Additives, gaskets
$841 = Labor -- 6.3 hours/$140 an hour

$1,209 = Ties Rods, Drag link, Damper, Track Bar
$1,189 = Labor & Alignments -- 8.2 hours/$153 an hour

$247 = EPA, Tax, Shop Supplies

:shaking:
 
Parts for the frond end doesn't sound terrible. I think I was $500 into my front end no damper or drag link.

8.2 hours seems high but that's probably book.
 
CarterKraft said:
This might be old news but I think it's the first I've seen of the inside of the dcr.

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Just did this to my 6.7. Took me way longer to install than I thought, but pretty happy and hope to get at least another 250k out of it. My CP4 made it to 249k, but I have a couple of longer trips I didn’t want to have to worry if my number was coming up. Kit was very complete and a bolt on affair. Finished it and then drove 1200 miles to break it in…
 
CarterKraft said:
This might be old news but I think it's the first I've seen of the inside of the dcr.

Click to expand...


The guy from S&S also talks about the trucks that have had these pumps installed and have had issues like some people here seem to be weary about. He basically said it came down to how well the fuel system was cleaned out and how close they payed attention to making sure there was no rust left in the system. Clean everything thoroughly and you will have zero issues and the pump will be a drop in deal.:smokin:
 
Seriously...... Who the fuck thought it was a brilliant idea to run an uncaptured roller lifter in the CP4???? A simple pinned lifter bore and matching slot in the lifter would solve most of those problems. That and use quality bearing materials on the rollers. :homer:
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
The unkeyed crank gear on these 6.7s is a pretty fucking stupid design also. The guy at Dave's said they tig the gear on every rebuild they do to solve the problem.
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I'm not as worried about the press fit gear.
A bunch of our common rail shit has non keyed gear and its been nice to have that fuse when things go wrong...

Backhoe had 5 gallons of def in the fuel tank, it wadded the pump up bad but didn't hurt the gear train.
 
CarterKraft said:
I'm not as worried about the press fit gear.
A bunch of our common rail shit has non keyed gear and its been nice to have that fuse when things go wrong...

Backhoe had 5 gallons of def in the fuel tank, it wadded the pump up bad but didn't hurt the gear train.
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I'm not either per say, especially once I put the DCR in. The Ford dealer was worried about the engine in my old service truck being junk because of how bad the CP4 exploded and locked up solid at highway speed but we got lucky and it didn't spin the crank gear. It's still a pretty stupid design to not put a fucking keyway on the crank gear.



Sort of off topic... Have you played with the sport mode trans function on your truck yet? I heard about it a few days ago and tried it yesterday on my way to the doctors and it definitely makes the shifts and shift timing better. As a bonus it turns the Stability/Traction control completely off vs the half turned off mode it goes into just pushing the off button on the dash.

For those that don't know...... Tap the traction control button twice instead of once and that will put the trans in sport mode. It reverts back to stock once you turn the truck off.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
I'm not either per say, especially once I put the DCR in. The Ford dealer was worried about the engine in my old service truck being junk because of how bad the CP4 exploded and locked up solid at highway speed but we got lucky and it didn't spin the crank gear. It's still a pretty stupid design to not put a fucking keyway on the crank gear.



Sort of off topic... Have you played with the sport mode trans function on your truck yet? I heard about it a few days ago and tried it yesterday on my way to the doctors and it definitely makes the shifts and shift timing better. As a bonus it turns the Stability/Traction control completely off vs the half turned off mode it goes into just pushing the off button on the dash.

For those that don't know...... Tap the traction control button twice instead of once and that will put the trans in sport mode. It reverts back to stock once you turn the truck off.
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I was going to say I don't have Sport mode...

It's on the to-do list now, does it add sport mode icon in the drive mode screen?
 
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