I know this wiring stuff isn't really exciting stuff, but it's where I'm at right now. I needed a break from cutting, grinding and welding plus it's time to hear it run(I hope) and then make it move. Anyway, I sat in it for a while yesterday and really had to think where to put switches, the FAST controller, the interior fans, etc as shortly I need to mount those things and wire them up, so I do have a plan or at least a preliminary plan of where some of that can be installed. We then commenced onto wiring up the fan relay and moved onto the headlight and dimmer switch wiring. Par for my course concerning wiring, I have 2 switches and the first one I grabbed was faulty, so that threw us for a loop for a while. So introduce headlight switch #2, now these are the older style ones that hold the fuse and have 5 connections for wires and I have a floor dimmer switch. So again it's not plug and play, it's snip wires, test wires and then connect wires. We were in the process of getting it figured out when darkness hit, so hopefully tonight I'll have that wired up, and then move onto tranny fan wiring and compressor wiring/plumbing along with filtering out the fuel tank. Key turning getting closer.
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It started, yee haw, but not so quick there powder puff, cuz it's making all sorts of noise, lifters(4 yrs not running might do that) and something else....yikes oil leak...shut it off. A fitting to the oil cooler was loose, ok tighten it up and I'm thinking it's best to just walk away for the night, but Dennis says let's hear it again. So I turn it on and run through the FAST EFI start-up menu and it says let it run until it reaches operating temp, so I start it and let it run, but it's still makin' a lot of noise, engine or tranny, I'm not sure, cuz I'm in the cab in case I have to shut it down, but it's running and besides the noise, it doesn't sound bad if that's possible. At one point the noise kind of died, but it came back, but sounded a bit different, so maybe the lifters got pumped up. It's Idling at 1400 though, timing not set and I think the fuel pressure maybe 3-4 psi too high, but it started and runs, kind of crazy if you ask me. Some gauges don't seem to be working and the turn-signals aren't blinking, but head-lights, dimmer and park lights all come on and work, so there are some bugs. The biggest bug is the noise, is it the tranny? It kind of sounds like it or is it the motor. It sounds like tranny to me and I sure hope my brother set the torque convertor when he put it on. I remember asking him when he set it and he said yes it was set, but right now it has me thinking and when I shut it off tranny fluid starting leaking out of the fill tube!!! So maybe the vent is plugged. Also the fan never came on, so I got bugs to kill in the next few days and it's to be raining most of the day tomorrow so we shall see if it gets any attention tomorrow.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Noise or not, that's a milestone right there. Good job.
Yea, and it started within like 15 seconds which totally shocked me, as I was set to have to play with timing adjustments to get it spit and sputter a few times before it started. I had even prepped myself to have to pull the dizzy and re-set it. The motor didn't miss and like I said above it does sound good, like it doesn't miss or sputter, she's just lifter noisy for sure or was and then this other noise. I'm thinking I'll get some seafoam and give it a shot and see what happens. Not that I'm a seafoam guy, but what can it hurt.
In Post #150 on page 5, I had to edit my original findings as I'm chasing why the turn signals and hazards do not flash. They come on, but the blinking isn't happening. There's some wiring issue that I'm having issues with trying to figure out, so the progress is slow due to the lights coming on, but no blinking, and some wires in the Painless kit aren't marked at FUSE Panel and that's making things interesting, We found one un-marked wire that comes from the Hazard flasher and blinks when grounded, but I'm battling how to make that work with what I've figured out so far. Maybe what I've figured out is wrong and I have the turn signals and hazard switches wired as power when they should be wired as ground connections. Oh well the head-scratching continues on this.
The lifters are still rattling, so that's got me ticked off(pun intended). The oil pressure it running 42-44 psi and I'm not sure if that's low or about correct when idling around 1000rpm. I still haven't timed it and I tried to adjust the idle, but I'm not sure I can, still more to come on that. I do need a stronger return spring this I know.
As I stated before I thought tranny had an issue, but right now I'm not sure as it may just be the lifters are still not pumping up. I did check the torque converter bolts and they were tight, so that's checked off the list. Any further diagnosing are on hold. I've still not shifted it at all when the motor is running, so there's some unknowns still. The tranny has too much fluid in it and it comes out the dip stick when I shut it off, but it becoming less and less with each start up.
The fan doesn't come on, although it has power to it, so either my BMW dual temp switch is bad or I'm missing something. We tested it by grounding it out and it works, but today I ran the temp up to 200 and it never came on and it's supposed to activate the low speed at 190*. More testing needed I guess or a different set up entirely, but I'll run it through a switch first to see if I can make it work that way and then commence to the next plan.
The temp gauge is now working, we used the wrong wire originally and the fuel gauge is working now too. It seems it takes 8-10 gallons before it starts to take a reading. 40 gallon tank(it's what I had) and universal sending unit installed won't get to the bottom, but maybe it's because it's the first time gas has been put into it since I installed the sending unit.
The lifters are still rattling, so that's got me ticked off(pun intended). The oil pressure it running 42-44 psi and I'm not sure if that's low or about correct when idling around 1000rpm. I still haven't timed it and I tried to adjust the idle, but I'm not sure I can, still more to come on that. I do need a stronger return spring this I know.
As I stated before I thought tranny had an issue, but right now I'm not sure as it may just be the lifters are still not pumping up. I did check the torque converter bolts and they were tight, so that's checked off the list. Any further diagnosing are on hold. I've still not shifted it at all when the motor is running, so there's some unknowns still. The tranny has too much fluid in it and it comes out the dip stick when I shut it off, but it becoming less and less with each start up.
The fan doesn't come on, although it has power to it, so either my BMW dual temp switch is bad or I'm missing something. We tested it by grounding it out and it works, but today I ran the temp up to 200 and it never came on and it's supposed to activate the low speed at 190*. More testing needed I guess or a different set up entirely, but I'll run it through a switch first to see if I can make it work that way and then commence to the next plan.
The temp gauge is now working, we used the wrong wire originally and the fuel gauge is working now too. It seems it takes 8-10 gallons before it starts to take a reading. 40 gallon tank(it's what I had) and universal sending unit installed won't get to the bottom, but maybe it's because it's the first time gas has been put into it since I installed the sending unit.
Well I may be close or it's possible l'm even further away from making the Hazards Flash, but I'm at a loss here, so riddle me this, because I'm not sure why this is happening. Oh yea the Turn Signals will be another battle because we've not tinkered with them besides throwing a test light on some wires.
So riddle me this, on the Hazards there's a Brown wire with no number or writing on it coming directly from the fuse panel and if I take my test light and attach it to the brown wire and ground it to the battery the flasher activates and my test light blinks. So ok the flasher works. So the next move is to run a wire from the brown wire to the wire that I figured out is connected to the Hazard switch on the steering column and when we do this the light on the dash comes on as do both front and rear lights, but they don't blink. Ok so something isn't grounded, but what? There's no ground wires that I can find in the Painless Harness that haven't been hooked up. And we've tested all the wires that haven't been hooked up to see which ones are hot and which ones are grounds and still this doesn't trigger the Hazard flasher when we run a ground wire to any NON-HOT wire. So, I decide to take another wire and hook it to the brown wire while it's connected to the Hazard wire at the steering column and when we ground it to the battery it works as it should, all lights are blinking. So now I have the hot wire(Brown) that's connected to the Battery ground and to the Hazard wire at the steering column with two wires different wires. But if I turn the Hazard button off the flasher still clicks away! Ok why, well I don't know, but we did figure out that if we put a switch in the wire going to the ground the flasher stopped clicking when this switch is turned off. OK, so now I need to have switch in the wire that goes to the battery ground and it needs to be turned on to activate the Hazards and turned off to turn off the flasher. This really seems weird to me, so what am I missing? So I installed a switch thinking ok it is what it is, but I'm not feeling real crazy about this, but it worked in our test scenario and lo and behold when we touch the battery ground the fuse blows. What the 'ell??? Why did this blow now and not before and we tested it a couple of times before mounting the switch. One thing that we need to check is to see if the switch didn't come in contact with some metal as it's a 3 terminal switch so maybe I didn't allow for enough clearance and one of the terminals touched some metal. I was frustrated so I said let's wrap it up and we did and I didn't check it out. I'm still not sure if this is a safe set up if I can make it work like we did in our testing. So tomorrow it's buying more fuses and a couple of two terminal switches to see if we can get the Hazards to work, but again I'm all ears if someone knows if this is stupid or if I'm missing something, so let it fly with the comments and suggestions.
Lifters still make noise, but I didn't run the truck very long, as we have a water leak again at the intake manifold and I've found the oil cooler hoses have developed cracks because one of them started leaking yesterday. I thought the hose was loose, but today I saw it was cracked and I fixed it and of course started to secure the hoses better only to find another crack, so new hoses need to be purchased. I don't recall where I bought this hose, but it surely isn't very good hose.
Oh yea I did put about 18" of wire loom on the wires at the gauges, so that's a good thing.
So riddle me this, on the Hazards there's a Brown wire with no number or writing on it coming directly from the fuse panel and if I take my test light and attach it to the brown wire and ground it to the battery the flasher activates and my test light blinks. So ok the flasher works. So the next move is to run a wire from the brown wire to the wire that I figured out is connected to the Hazard switch on the steering column and when we do this the light on the dash comes on as do both front and rear lights, but they don't blink. Ok so something isn't grounded, but what? There's no ground wires that I can find in the Painless Harness that haven't been hooked up. And we've tested all the wires that haven't been hooked up to see which ones are hot and which ones are grounds and still this doesn't trigger the Hazard flasher when we run a ground wire to any NON-HOT wire. So, I decide to take another wire and hook it to the brown wire while it's connected to the Hazard wire at the steering column and when we ground it to the battery it works as it should, all lights are blinking. So now I have the hot wire(Brown) that's connected to the Battery ground and to the Hazard wire at the steering column with two wires different wires. But if I turn the Hazard button off the flasher still clicks away! Ok why, well I don't know, but we did figure out that if we put a switch in the wire going to the ground the flasher stopped clicking when this switch is turned off. OK, so now I need to have switch in the wire that goes to the battery ground and it needs to be turned on to activate the Hazards and turned off to turn off the flasher. This really seems weird to me, so what am I missing? So I installed a switch thinking ok it is what it is, but I'm not feeling real crazy about this, but it worked in our test scenario and lo and behold when we touch the battery ground the fuse blows. What the 'ell??? Why did this blow now and not before and we tested it a couple of times before mounting the switch. One thing that we need to check is to see if the switch didn't come in contact with some metal as it's a 3 terminal switch so maybe I didn't allow for enough clearance and one of the terminals touched some metal. I was frustrated so I said let's wrap it up and we did and I didn't check it out. I'm still not sure if this is a safe set up if I can make it work like we did in our testing. So tomorrow it's buying more fuses and a couple of two terminal switches to see if we can get the Hazards to work, but again I'm all ears if someone knows if this is stupid or if I'm missing something, so let it fly with the comments and suggestions.
Lifters still make noise, but I didn't run the truck very long, as we have a water leak again at the intake manifold and I've found the oil cooler hoses have developed cracks because one of them started leaking yesterday. I thought the hose was loose, but today I saw it was cracked and I fixed it and of course started to secure the hoses better only to find another crack, so new hoses need to be purchased. I don't recall where I bought this hose, but it surely isn't very good hose.
Oh yea I did put about 18" of wire loom on the wires at the gauges, so that's a good thing.
OK, I'm not sure why, but I think I need to put a small light(I don't know crap about resistors or diodes to know if I could use one of those instead) in the wire that's going to ground to make the Hazards work. So tonight after work that's the plan. My reason is we use the test light in all the tests, but when I wired up it we don't have the test light, just the switch going to ground, so of course it's going to fry the fuse, duh. It's funny how some things hit you when they do. But it still doesn't explain why I have to do this when all the lights come on but don't flash with the current wiring set up. The system has to be grounded for the lights to come on, so why, why, why??? Phase 1200 of the Hazard wiring saga and then we shall see if the Turn Signals need the same treatment, so yea I'm buying double of everything to be ready for How the Turn Signals Work documentary.
Yes, it needs a resistor if running mostly led lights in the system. Just do a little research and you should be able to find one.
One more thing that I'm wondering about is a jumper wire at the alternator, do I or don't I need that. It mentions it, but on the original harness it wasn't there, so I'm unsure about that. I haven't done any research on it yet, but I shall.
Depends on whether you have a one wire alternator or not. Most older alternators, you either have to excite the field, or they have an external regulator.
I just ordered 2 NO LOAD Flashers that have a ground wire attached to them to see if those will work. I will keep the light or resistor option on the table (if I can figure out what size resistor to use) as a back-up plan if these flashers don't work.
The alternator has the battery wire terminal and then a two plug connector and I remember hooking up an exciter wire to the alternator, but I'm not sure if I put it on the battery terminal or tied it into the plug. I did what the instructions said. I'll look tonight. My volt gauge reads 12.2 amps when the motor is running, so I've been wondering if I have it wired correctly, as I wonder if it should read higher. I almost upgraded the alternator to a 200 amp, but then figured I better see if the motor runs before I do something like that, so that will happen once the lifter ticking is gone and I'm sure I don't have any other motor issues which would make me re-think fixing this one or buying a 5.3 or 6.0 or cummins.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Are your tail lights and turn signal lights LED? I do know LED lights need a specific type of flasher.
Yes, they are and I bought some NOVITA EL-12 flashers that stated they were for LED's and there was no change and one of them blew up, although I think it may have been poorly assembled because a piece of solder came off a connection and it's rattling around inside it.
Tonight was replace oil cooler hoses, then I tried to time it but that was a bust. I could never see the timing mark (need to clean the balancer)and then there was a loud noise and I got a lot of blow-by, so we shut her off. I pulled the driver's side valve cover and nothing out of the norm except I'd say there's a lack of oil, so definitely some of the lifters are still stuck. We started it while the valve cover was off and yea some lifters are still being stubborn. We put the valve cover back on and I decide to start it again, and although she's noisy she does start and runs. I then decided to shift the tranny and it works and then I put the t-case in gear and shift the tranny and it works. It's hard to tell if there are any issues due to the lifter noise, but it shifted fine. Of course, she's up on jack stands, so there's no load to speak of. I let it run to 206* and the fan still doesn't come on. I shot some temps with my infrared gun and it reads lower than the temp gauge, so now I'm not sure if the temp sender is good or is my infrared gun good? In time I'll get it figured out. We played with some electrical, but nothing more than running some wires and mounting a couple of things. I put in about 1/4 quart of tranny fluid in the oil, because at this point I figure what am I out, and during the long run time, the lifters stopped making noise for about a second and then they started singing again. I think it's less than before, but I could be having one of those wishful moments. I may drain some oil and put another 1/4 qt in tomorrow.
Oh, yea I was able to get the rear driveshaft, but until I get brakes and steering bled I'm not in a huge hurry to slap it in, but that could change in the blink of an eye!! Still waiting on the front driveshaft, but maybe by the end of the week.
I looked at the alternator and it has one battery wire to the BAT terminal and one other wire(exciter) to the plug and that's it, but I'm not sure it's charging the battery, as it now is reading 11.9--12 volts. Tomorrow will tell us what's up if it keeps going down or goes up during another long run time.
Oh, yea I was able to get the rear driveshaft, but until I get brakes and steering bled I'm not in a huge hurry to slap it in, but that could change in the blink of an eye!! Still waiting on the front driveshaft, but maybe by the end of the week.
I looked at the alternator and it has one battery wire to the BAT terminal and one other wire(exciter) to the plug and that's it, but I'm not sure it's charging the battery, as it now is reading 11.9--12 volts. Tomorrow will tell us what's up if it keeps going down or goes up during another long run time.
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No work on the clickity clacker last night--it was hot and I needed a break. I ordered some lifters & will swap them out when they arrive. I know some will say you should do a cam and lifters together, but enough people have just changed the lifters and been ok, so unless the lifters can hold a bowl of cereal on the cam side that's my plan and if they look terrible then I guess a cam will be in the works. I just feel I'm pushing my luck with trying to get the lifters to pump up. If they weren't so loud and I think there's quite a few of them not pumping up I'd keep after it, but I'm not trusting my luck with that, so I made a decision.
You're not charging. should read 14.2-14.7 amps on or right after startup. If you blew a flasher up, it sounds like you have power running where it shouldn't. rewires are always a pain. You should run main power to your alternator battery terminal, and a jumper from the battery terminal to the exciter terminal (look up a couple chevy diagrams, should be easy to figure out which terminal) but it will need a resistor soldered into the jumper to keep from burning up the regulator. The resistor should have been included in your universal wiring kit.
1Sinner--thanks, I'll look for that resistor. The next couple of days are iffy concerning jeep time, as I'm helping my brothers, so it will depend on 
what time I get home on whether or not I have time and not to mention is pushing 100* today and 106* tomorrow
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what time I get home on whether or not I have time and not to mention is pushing 100* today and 106* tomorrow.
113 here today. I've been in a welding coat and gear most of the day at work. It sucked.1Sinner--thanks, I'll look for that resistor. The next couple of days are iffy concerning jeep time, as I'm helping my brothers, so it will depend on
What a battle to get the old lifters out and new ones back in and get it started again and I still have some lifters ticking, but it's an adjustment issue I'm sure. They all look to be getting good oil now, which is a good sign and it is way, way quieter. I started Friday night after work and I actually had the lifters in it and valves adjusted, or I thought I did!! Finally got it started last night at about 6:30ish. I'm not sure why I had so much difficulty in getting the valves adjusted and dizzy installed correctly. I installed the dizzy like 6 different times and adjusted valves at least 10 times before finally getting it to start. Final valve adjustment was not paying attention to TDC adjustments and just tightening them down to where the pushrods wouldn't spin and then 3/4 of a turn more. Anyway, at least I'm down to adjusting a few tomorrow, as I didn't have the gumption to do it today and my fingers are hurting from spinning pushrods. Anyway, things are looking up in that dept and hopefully tomorrow all the ticking is gone after adjusting and I can time it and see if there's anything else that needs attention with the engine.
So, today was let's work on some electrical. First up was to attack the turn signal and hazard flashers and by god, the new flashers I bought with the ground wire coming out of them did the job. Flasher problem checked off.
During the flasher testing, I found that the jumper wire I added to the alternator had to come off as the fuel pump came on without the key being turned on. Now in defense of Painless, they did mention that could happen, but they also mentioned using a 16 ga jumper wire or a 14 ga jumper wire or a diode((covering their ass with all the different options, but I get it) of which I couldn't find in the Painless parts. It may be laying in the bottom of one of the boxes I have full of electrical crap, so I ordered a diode. I will say I'm still not sure I need it or not, as I have the battery wire and one other wire(white exciter wire) going to the alternator and none of the drawings show this set up with the jumper going from the battery terminal to the white exciter wire. They do show it going to a terminal 2 on the alternator, but my alternator isn't set up with just a 2 spade terminal, mine looks like a 4 spade terminal, with small spades at that, and the exciter wire is the only one that has the female metal fitting to mate up to the alternator plug. But I'll give the diode a try once it arrives. I watched a few videos and researched, but I haven't found anyone who's put the diode in from the battery lug at the alternator directly to the white exciter wire. The future will see a high out-put alternator, which will be sooner vs later, but if I'm going to screw up an alternator I'd like it to be this one vs a new high out-put one.
We also wired the fan to a switch to at least test the fan and it worked, but I do need a 3-way switch(on/off/on for high speed/off/low speed), so I ordered that too. I'm not sure why the BMW temperature switch doesn't work, but now I can get the engine dialed in and not have to worry about diagnosing that until later. I added a light, so I know that the fan is off or on, hopefully, I can remember to turn it on and off!!! That is much harder than one thinks. I had this set-up on my '48 Willys CJ2A and I had a note to remind me and I still forgot to do it a few times. Or maybe it's just me
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Also ran the wire to the passenger door auto-lock, so all I need now is to run the power wire and connect the ground wire, but it was hot and over humid today and pizza showed up so we cleaned up and ate and chilled.
So nice to have a day with success.
So, today was let's work on some electrical. First up was to attack the turn signal and hazard flashers and by god, the new flashers I bought with the ground wire coming out of them did the job. Flasher problem checked off.
During the flasher testing, I found that the jumper wire I added to the alternator had to come off as the fuel pump came on without the key being turned on. Now in defense of Painless, they did mention that could happen, but they also mentioned using a 16 ga jumper wire or a 14 ga jumper wire or a diode((covering their ass with all the different options, but I get it) of which I couldn't find in the Painless parts. It may be laying in the bottom of one of the boxes I have full of electrical crap, so I ordered a diode. I will say I'm still not sure I need it or not, as I have the battery wire and one other wire(white exciter wire) going to the alternator and none of the drawings show this set up with the jumper going from the battery terminal to the white exciter wire. They do show it going to a terminal 2 on the alternator, but my alternator isn't set up with just a 2 spade terminal, mine looks like a 4 spade terminal, with small spades at that, and the exciter wire is the only one that has the female metal fitting to mate up to the alternator plug. But I'll give the diode a try once it arrives. I watched a few videos and researched, but I haven't found anyone who's put the diode in from the battery lug at the alternator directly to the white exciter wire. The future will see a high out-put alternator, which will be sooner vs later, but if I'm going to screw up an alternator I'd like it to be this one vs a new high out-put one.
We also wired the fan to a switch to at least test the fan and it worked, but I do need a 3-way switch(on/off/on for high speed/off/low speed), so I ordered that too. I'm not sure why the BMW temperature switch doesn't work, but now I can get the engine dialed in and not have to worry about diagnosing that until later. I added a light, so I know that the fan is off or on, hopefully, I can remember to turn it on and off!!! That is much harder than one thinks. I had this set-up on my '48 Willys CJ2A and I had a note to remind me and I still forgot to do it a few times. Or maybe it's just me
.Also ran the wire to the passenger door auto-lock, so all I need now is to run the power wire and connect the ground wire, but it was hot and over humid today and pizza showed up so we cleaned up and ate and chilled.
So nice to have a day with success.
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Valve adjustment is still kicking my butt. Why? I don't know, but it is and it's frustrating. I get it to run with no lifters clacking, but it runs bad. I loosen lifters a ¼ turn and it runs better, do it again and some lifters start clacking. i got oil everywhere as I'm trying to do it with the engine running. I gave up with that cuz I got more oil on my driveway than in the motor. So I decided to spin the push-rods again and set them that way with motor not running. It runs better, but not great and some lifters are clacking. I tighten the ones that are clacking and it gets better, but it's still not 100%. Loosen some others and back and forth I'm going and at the last go around a new noise appears, so I said screw this and cleaned up and will attack this again another day. I think I need to re-think the way I pre-adjust. I think I'm tightening them too much initially and I need to devise something to keep the oil from shooting all over when it's running. Again another day as I'm headed to the College World Series tonight.
I did put the rear driveshaft in and wired up the door locks, so those were the wins for the day. I have to live with small wins at the moment, so I don't bring out the 458 lott and ventilate the motor!! Oh yea I have to get new rear calipers, cuz they won't bleed. I have fluid at the caliper, but it won't come out the bleeder valve. I think they are rusted up or the bugs have gummed it up good. I could maybe rebuild them, but rebuilt ones aren't that expensive.
I did put the rear driveshaft in and wired up the door locks, so those were the wins for the day. I have to live with small wins at the moment, so I don't bring out the 458 lott and ventilate the motor!! Oh yea I have to get new rear calipers, cuz they won't bleed. I have fluid at the caliper, but it won't come out the bleeder valve. I think they are rusted up or the bugs have gummed it up good. I could maybe rebuild them, but rebuilt ones aren't that expensive.
Well after the new lifter swap it turns out I have a spun bearing that was making the bulk of the noise, but there was no way to diagnose that with all the lifter noise, so I went and bought a used Gen lll 6.0 from an LS engine builder who ran it on his engine stand. He knew the guy who he got if from. There was no weird noises, no smoke and good oil pressure. I got 2 intakes, all the front accessories and brackets, wiring harness, exhaust manifolds, motor mounts, flex plate spacer and flex plate and the guy offered to help out with troubleshooting and also would replace the water pump and alternator if they go south. It does have 167K on it, but I think I got a deal for $1200. The guy isn't going to sell a piece of crap and have to deal with the fallout that could happen from it and if I can get a couple of yrs out of it I'll be happy, so now it's LS swap time. He did say the Holley TerminatorX harness was a good way to go, but I need to research that to see what makes sense, but it's what he uses to test all his engines and says it's easy and very good. With that being said I'm all ears. He did tell me what gaskets he'd replace and gave me some tips on how to do some of them and so now I've got more work to do. One thing I have to decide is if I should get the tranny rebuilt now and I'm leading that way. It's not that I want to do it, but now with the motor being shot and the tranny came out of the same truck and knowing how my brother treats his vehicles it may be smart. But then again who needs to be smart at this point, but I'd be a bit pissed if the tranny goes out after I get it together. We shall see.
If you're worried about it, I would do it now. You'll be happier with that LS power anyway.
Yea, that's my lean, but it's again that $$$ thing that is a bummer at this stage and toss on top of that what all do I need to buy for the motor yet to get it to fit and run?
-Gaskets for front and rear cover, intake, exhaust, and ???
-Water pump--the camaro one is shorter and it requires a different harmonic balancer, but does that mean the whole front accessories package needs to be changed out too?
-Wiring harness--the Holley Terminator X is $1325, but it has some great features and if I buy the right one it will control the 4L80e if I want to dump the "Jake's Performance manual shift box) I don't know what else is out there(need to research), yea I can hack the harness or have it hacked and flash the computer(I haven't looked at it yet), but what's the pros and cons of doing that. More as in a hacked harness won't give me what the Terminator X can, but it would be cheaper and do I need/want to control the tranny with a computer. My lean towards the Terminator X is that it won't interfere too much with what I've already done wiring wise. Basically, I'd be removing the FAST EFI and replacing it, but again is the Terminator X the best option for the money?
-Oil pan--do I need to get a shallower one and what's involved with that--different pick-up tube I'd think I would?
-Steam kit--is it really needed?
-Does this motor have oil cooler lines? Are they needed?
-Headers vs stock manifold?
-What am I not thinking about?
-And then do I buy a new power steering pump, alternator(most likely for more amps) and water pump?
I is LS dumb and I need to catch the bus to get up to speed.
-Gaskets for front and rear cover, intake, exhaust, and ???
-Water pump--the camaro one is shorter and it requires a different harmonic balancer, but does that mean the whole front accessories package needs to be changed out too?
-Wiring harness--the Holley Terminator X is $1325, but it has some great features and if I buy the right one it will control the 4L80e if I want to dump the "Jake's Performance manual shift box) I don't know what else is out there(need to research), yea I can hack the harness or have it hacked and flash the computer(I haven't looked at it yet), but what's the pros and cons of doing that. More as in a hacked harness won't give me what the Terminator X can, but it would be cheaper and do I need/want to control the tranny with a computer. My lean towards the Terminator X is that it won't interfere too much with what I've already done wiring wise. Basically, I'd be removing the FAST EFI and replacing it, but again is the Terminator X the best option for the money?
-Oil pan--do I need to get a shallower one and what's involved with that--different pick-up tube I'd think I would?
-Steam kit--is it really needed?
-Does this motor have oil cooler lines? Are they needed?
-Headers vs stock manifold?
-What am I not thinking about?
-And then do I buy a new power steering pump, alternator(most likely for more amps) and water pump?
I is LS dumb and I need to catch the bus to get up to speed.
jjeep71
Old Guy
My son put a 5.3 in his 1968 Nova with a 4L60e. We were told everything worked great. After we got it running we found the transmission needed rebuilt. Would have been much easier to have it fixed before the install but how do you know?