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'56 willys truck

So one of my next projects is to use a Tibuta w100 windows tablet (Amazon $128 if you wait for a deal to pop up otherwise it’s $160)to monitor the motor since the little handheld that comes with the Holley system fritzes in and out. Of course I didn’t read about this issue until long after I had already bought it, but it probably wouldn’t have changed my mind about buying the Holley system & also since it was bought about a year before it actually made its way into the Willys there was no reason for me to keep tabs on Holley stuff until I got ready to install it. I had plenty of other items on the build list to work on.
I have to make a mount for it and the charger is 110v, so I have to either use a small converter (I have one somewhere) or see if a usb cord will charge it. So far with 110v it will not charge using a usb cord into any other 110v charger. It only charges with its dedicated charger. So tonight I’ll see if a usb cord will charge from one of my usb ports in the Willys. If this works it’s a savings of like $700 bucks if I were to buy Holley’s dedicated 7” screen. It’s worked for other guys, but will it work for me??!!!!

Amazon has it for $144 right now.

 

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Well dang the usb cord will not charge the Tibuta so I need to find my small converter and see if that works. I tried both a 5v1a and 5v2a usb plug and it was a no go. I need to find my magnifying glass to see the numbers on that charger to see what that thing is.

I then plugged the Tibuta into my splitter to see if the gauges would work and they didn’t. I wasn’t surprised cuz I kind of figured it needs the tune loaded so I did that, but I’m charging the Tibuta right now, so maybe tomorrow or Friday I can test it.
Also I slapped some engine enamel paint on the drivers door as I had seen Dirthead Dave do this a couple of times so that’s the new paint attack plan when it’s not windy and I get more paint. Right now it’s only where I want red that I’m attacking.
 
csutton7 said:
Well dang the usb cord will not charge the Tibuta so I need to find my small converter and see if that works. I tried both a 5v1a and 5v2a usb plug and it was a no go. I need to find my magnifying glass to see the numbers on that charger to see what that thing is.

I then plugged the Tibuta into my splitter to see if the gauges would work and they didn’t. I wasn’t surprised cuz I kind of figured it needs the tune loaded so I did that, but I’m charging the Tibuta right now, so maybe tomorrow or Friday I can test it.
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Looking at the ad, it appears to be a USB C port to charge it, have you tried something like a Chromebook/laptop USB C charger?
If that works, something like this might work:

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com
The spec you would want toook for would be "USB C PD" (Power Delivery).

Aaron Z
 
Aaron--Somewhere we have a usb c charger for a bluetooth speaker that I want to try as the Tibuta charger worked to charge the speaker, but until we find it I'm still in a world of trying to see what will work, so thanks a bunch for the link. I'll check it out and compare it to the Tibuta charger once I see what the rating is on the Tibuta charger.
 
Here’s the info on the Tibuta charger- 12v 2amps
 

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I went ahead and ordered the charger aczlan posted above, so we shall see if it works. It's to be here tomorrow, but depending on when it arrives will depend if I get to test it. We are going saturday to small dirt road offroad park with possibly my one brother's '53 cj3a willys and my youngest brother's '65 seriesll landrover and tomorrow besides work and having to pick up a kid from school and be around for a termite inspection I need to see if we can work on the cj3a steering and tomorrow at 6pm the wife and I are going to this Ultimate Offroad Truck gathering (so far no real pics of anything ultimate offroad except my Willys that are showing up, but maybe a real rock crawler or two will show up).
 
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Good news. The charger aczlan suggested works, so mega thanks to him. Now I need to watch a video on how to sync it up so that the gauges work, cuz me playing with it I couldn’t get it to do it.
 
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Would you happen to have a vid from a bit closer that shows how loud the exhaust is?

The one you just posted didn't sound like it was all that loud.

Yes, I'm still very paranoid of how loud mine will be:flipoff2:
 
Best ones so far. I’ll try & take one later if I get a chance.
 



 

Y
 
I think it’s post #544 on the previous page where I say these are Raptor Turbo Mufflers with a part # and where I bought them.
 
Shit, I thought you had round straight through muffs. I'm a idiot.

Now I'm back to crossing my fingers:flipoff2:
 
I did have short round-straight-thru cherry bombs before but they were really loud, so I found these and decided to give them a shot. I wasn't sure I could make them fit, but I did.
 
One issue that did arise from Saturday's adventure, was on the way home the NWF eco box popped out of gear twice, so I hope it's a cable adjustment issue. I've been lazy since then, but I'll get to it here soon.
 
I finally started on the piece to close off the gap created by having to raise the hood due to the windshield wiper motor having to be flipped upside down to fit. It will also act as more engine protection since it’s two pieces of 1/4” plate welded together. I still need to add a gusset to each side and at least one bar to tie into the rest of the engine cage. This in turn meant I ended up having to remodel the hinges so that I can open the hood all to almost straight up and down.

Painted the rims too.
 

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Well the NWF ECO box has popped out of gear 5 times, twice a couple of weeks ago, once yesterday and twice today and the last time it locked me up and spun me around 180* this morning. Or I believe that's what locked up. I was able to drive it afterward to get to work as I was only 1/4 mile from work. What happens on the way home after work is up in the air.

So yesterday I called NWF and discussed the issue, and besides the you may have to adjust the cable better or you left out a thrust washer or snap ring or something is worn, the old oh yea heat can cause an issue because there's only 1 quart of fluid in the thing was brought to my attention and you can add a TILTON ENGINEERING pump 40-527 and a cooler to the system and you will never overheat the case and yea overheating it will cause it to pop out of gear. Oh and if it melts a piece of plastic in there it will lock up the gears!!! So here I sit a bit miffed on why does this shit happen to me and why do you never read about this stuff before you stuff it in your rig?!!!!!!

So to recap: the 1st two times it popped out of gear I had driven it about 20 miles and most of it at 55- 60mph plus maybe 2 more miles around the dirt offroad park and then 10 miles of driving on the way home again 55-60 mph and then another 4 miles at 65-70 mph when it popped out again before I got home. It popped out once yesterday after driving 5 miles(60 mph got 3 minutes and 45 mph the remainder) to an appointment, parked and it was about an hour before I jumped back in it and headed for the office and then after about 5 miles on the way back to the office it popped out again_65 mph for 5 minutes) and then I held the shifter to see if it would do it the remaining 4 miles to the office and it didn't pop out nor did it the 5 or so miles back home but I never got above 45mph. This morning 45 mph for 4 minutes, 65 for 4 minutes(popped out) and then another 45 for 2 minutes(popped out and locked up and spun me). One more minute no issue at 25 mph.

So it would seem or be extremely smart that if you want to use one of those reduction boxes(100% needed for the ECO box straight from NWF) and drive on the highway you need to add the Tipton pump and a cooler so that they don't overheat and cause issues.

Back story when I built my willys jeep in CA my new Advance Adapters 4 spd t-case locked up on me and sent me swerving, hopping and eventually rolled over down the freeway on the way back from the Rubicon. Now this was one of the 1st 4spd cases they built and they had an issue with overheating because the shaft in the reduction box would flex a bit and cause overheating and take out the bearing. They replaced the case at no cost to me, which was awesome, because it was 4-5 yrs old before I drove it on the street, due to me being in Kenya and build time, so it was way out of warranty. They redesigned the case by adding another bearing to solve the issue and I've never heard of anyone having an issue since then. Now again this was 10-12 years ago when I bought it and 7-8 years ago when it failed and they replaced it. And I think the redesign was sometime in that 10-11 years ago range.

So now I hope to make it home from work and then some thinking has to happen on my next move. Does the NWF ECO box need to be rebuilt after 500 miles on the road? Do I just add a cooler and hope the dang thing is ok? Do I shelve it all and go with a 4 spd atlas? Or do I buy the Behemoth range box and their NP 205 case? If I keep the NWF box(most likely) or get the Behemoth range box I will buy the Tipton Engineering pump and a cooler to add to the system. I guess I could just delete the range box also, but then I have to rework driveshafts, the belly pan maybe and my final drive ratio would suck or get another t-case with lower gears, but that would again mean reworking things.

Keep tuned for further adventures of what kind of shit can go south!!
 
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I would go through the NWF box first just to make sure they didn't fuck something up or leave something out when building it. Cause it sure sounds like they did.

A quart ain't much. Even if the case was working right, I'd think adding the pump and cooler would be a smart move. Make the lines going to and from the cooler as long as possible to add volume.
 
NWF sends the box without the planetary and some other parts you take out of certain common t-cases and you assemble it, so it's on me to see if I left something out, but I can't believe I did. Bottom line I have an issue with it and maybe something else. Yea good point about the longer lines for added capacity. That Tilton pump is like $242 from Summit.
 
Ordered the Tilton 40-527 pump now to find another NV 241 t-case to rob parts out of. Then removal and rebuild will commence. As much as I want a behemoth np205 case that's going to have to wait and plus I'd have to wait for it and I'm not in the waiting mood right now. I'll have to decide whether or not to rebuild the NP205 or just add the upgraded output shaft and the vss speed sensor housing to it. I have everything to rebuild it, but it works now, so I'll have to make that decision once I remove the output shaft and look things over.

Yea I have the spare np 205 all disassembled, but some of the needle bearings have minor pitting and staining (ran them thru my brass media tumbler) and I don't know if those come new in the rebuild kit(guess I should go count how many I have and compare to what's in the rebuild kit), since it was in a flood and I took everything apart to look over every little item, so I'm not sure if it makes sense to rebuild it or not using old needle bearings that may need to be reused? My gut kind of says it will be no issue with the needle bearings, but still I just have that feeling that it may not be the right thing to do?
 
Got the log fluid cooler and Tilton pump and I picked up an NV241C t-case and disassembled and cut it apart to get all the parts I need, which I may not need now that I've done it. So what do I mean? Well my thoughts were let's be proactive and get a t-case and get the parts off it just in case I need them. This is what's needed according to NWF:

Application To build the EcoBox you will need to supply the following parts to build your EcoBox: Input Shaft with the correct spline count to match the transmission being mated to, 3 Pinion or 6 Pinion Planetary (6 Pinion Recommended), Ring Gear, 2x Plastic Thrust Washers, 1x Steel Thrust Washer, Planetary Snap Ring, Input Bearing with inner and outer snap rings, Input Bearing Retainer w/ Seal and a shift collar from a 231/241 Manual Shift transfer case. These components can be seen in Figure 1. Part 1 of the instruction manual will cover extracting the components from a 241 transfer case.

So after I get the t-case disassembled I didn't have the 2x Plastic Thrust Washers or the 1x Steel Thrust Washers or I don't think I have them. I need to go back and look in the 2 small boxes I put the parts in, but I don't remember these parts coming out of the t-case. So now if those thrust washers aren't to be found I need to get some(have to figure out where) and let's say those are the only parts I need to replace in the NWF ECO box then I didn't need the t-case, but I don't know that yet. Thinking back when I originally did the NWF ECO box I don't know if I had those thrust washers or not and it was also a NV241C t-case. I'll find out when I tear into the ECO box once I get it out of the truck, but with that being said I'm not sure why I wouldn't have questioned why I didn't have the thrust washers. I'll have to go back and check to see if I have pics of when I put it together
 
I ordered the small parts kit from EBAY for the NV241 t-case--has snap rings, thrust washers & more, so I should be covered now. Should be here by next Friday.

DS New Process NP241 Transfer Case SMALL PARTS KIT SP241-50

s-l500.png
 
Geesh, what you think you know from research and what you find out after the fact is mind-boggling to me. So as of right now the t-case and NWF blackbox eco-box are out of the truck and I've opened up the NWF box and found nothing that suggests melting parts or mechanical failure, but I need to pull the input shaft out of the planetary to check the thrust washers to make sure they're not starting to melt or starting to deform. They are hidden and thus why I never remembered them or found them in the t-case I just bought and pulled apart, because if you aren't changing the input you don't access the thrust washers. NWF instructions only tell you that you need them. I sent an email to NWF telling them they should amend their instructions, well because I thought the thrust washers were on the output side, but they emailed me back and I talked to them again yesterday(Canadian Company) and Kris set me straight on the thrust washers and also said that if you clock the NP205 flat you need to add more gear oil and you should add a catch can so that the gear oil can drain back into the t-case cuz you can fry a bearing or weld some gears together and lock up you t-case because the t-case will push the oil out the breather!!!!!!!!. Kudos to Kris for taking time to talk to me and add this bit of info, because by god I never read any of that but it makes total sense now that I put 8 and 12 together. See I had added extra gear oil (cuz research said it was needed), but it pumped it out my extended fill tube so I just figured I had overfilled it and it was pumping the excess out!! So the other day I think the t-case locked up and not the NWF box(everything rotates fine in the NWF box). I think somehow whatever locked up in the t-case broke free and that's why I was able to drive it home and it rotates also. Further investigation will happen once I tear it apart.

So now I need to add a catch can to the NP205 system to keep it happy due to it being clocked flat and the again adding the Tilton pump to the NWF blackbox eco-box to keep it happy.
 
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