Will Scarlet
The universe is vast...
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Today is the day so good luck... 
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gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Good luck. Hope all goes well.
Fuck, it's Fri the 13th......................I'm going back to bed
Fuck, it's Fri the 13th......................I'm going back to bed
Will Scarlet
The universe is vast...
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- May 20, 2020
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Well my luck continues— no dyno and no overall check of the truck. Tuner wasn’t there and the guy who helps with the Dyno got a text that his grandmother just passed away. So that killed the dyno tuning. It will be scheduled for another day once everyone is back in the flow. So I decide I will go to the DMV. I pass the inspection, but once inside they say the title is old and not in the Iowa database, so they need Iowa to confirm that it’s a legit title, so they say they will contact me in a week or so. So of course I’m not to drive it on the roads and I’m in never never land until Iowa comes through. Fuckin Friday the 13th wins again.
Now for a driving report— got it up to 55mph and no wobbles, but I may have a tad bump steer, but I need more drive time to diagnose and call it freeway worthy.
Tranny shifts from what I believe is 1st to 2nd at 3800 rpm’s and around 35-40 mph and from I think 2nd to 3rd and it downshifts. So at least it’s shifting but it sounds like I’m revving the shit out of for the 1st -2nd shift cuz the next shift doesn’t seem to be as high in the rpm’s. Bottom line I need more drive time to get more solid #’s in the later shifts.
It’s fucking cold out too, I’m not sure if I’ll tinker on it later or not, plus the wife is off work and we need to go grocery shopping and such.
Tranny shifts from what I believe is 1st to 2nd at 3800 rpm’s and around 35-40 mph and from I think 2nd to 3rd and it downshifts. So at least it’s shifting but it sounds like I’m revving the shit out of for the 1st -2nd shift cuz the next shift doesn’t seem to be as high in the rpm’s. Bottom line I need more drive time to get more solid #’s in the later shifts.
It’s fucking cold out too, I’m not sure if I’ll tinker on it later or not, plus the wife is off work and we need to go grocery shopping and such.
Will Scarlet
The universe is vast...
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I will disagree with this. It's not like you took it to the Dyno place, passed all of the checks, then your engine blew up due to an unforeseen issue, and when you decided to go to the DMV they confiscate your vehicle because they believe it's stolen. That would be bad luck.
No, the tuner was out sick, the helper had family issues (my condolences), your DMV adventure resulted in them wanting to verify the title from Iowa, you verified that your transmission is shifting, and your engine is running safely up to 55 MPH without blowing up. Overall not a bad day, it just didn't go the exact way you wanted.
In my experience, it's best to take the wins you can in a day to make it okay rather than focus on what you didn't accomplish to make it a shitty day. Yeah you have to wait on the DMV and your Dyno place, but it wasn't like something truly bad happened...
Will Scarlet
The universe is vast...
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Yeah, I still wouldn't call that being kicked in the balls by Friday the 13th. If it was your engine debacle that occurred, I would agree but this was nothing like that.
I'll give you this, "Your balls were exposed dangling in the wind because of Friday the 13th and still nothing bad happened..."
I'll give you this, "Your balls were exposed dangling in the wind because of Friday the 13th and still nothing bad happened..."
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Ya, if you ball were dangling and some random kid hit um with a stick........that would be a bad day. You just got to air out the bean bag.
FordFascist
Ford Bigot
Chris has bad luck. I’ve been wheeling with him.
Great work so far. It will get there.
I just got word that I can go title and register it at the DMV, so tomorrow morning that's my plan. So that hurdle will be cleared off the track. I started on the skid plates for the fuel pump and steering cooler, but now the weather has kicked into another gear that will hamper or kill progress for at least a week it looks like and it could be more, but I will be driving it around to keep ironing out the kinks.
Just keep working at it
Will Scarlet
The universe is vast...
- Joined
- May 20, 2020
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Steady as she goes...
Titled, Registered and plates are on.
So, since I hadn’t heard from the Dyno guys I sent a text and lo & behold I’m not even on their calendar for this month and not yet on the Feb schedule. I told them Feb 10th I could do, but to let me know what other days are open. Not really jumping for joy about this turn of events.
So, since I hadn’t heard from the Dyno guys I sent a text and lo & behold I’m not even on their calendar for this month and not yet on the Feb schedule. I told them Feb 10th I could do, but to let me know what other days are open. Not really jumping for joy about this turn of events.
Drove to work today on my latest tune. Been tinkering with the skid plate at the front bumper and other small things a couple of hours every night this week as it's been in the 20's to 30's, but come Sunday we go to below zero to low teens for most of next week, so that will probably thwart any outside work.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
How'd it run? Guessing if you drove it to work, it has to be running pretty good.
Unless you work from home
I do work from home from 5am to 7am and then take Branson to school and then to the office I go.
2 loud clunks--one I think was from a 1/4" rod about 12" long I left on the rear fender that fell off---the other clunk I don't know what it was( I need to crawl around it. It happened when I left the office, but it never repeated and there were no new issues while driving back home.
Rear driver's axle seal started to leak
1st to 2nd shift happens at 3800 rpm
When coasting and it downshifts from 2nd to 1st it seems like the tranny is slipping when you give it gas to keep the MPH constant -I need more drive time to see if it's just a combo of rpms & noise(it's loud) because otherwise everything seems fine. Maybe it's the stall of the torque converter, which is what I'm leaning towards.
The HOLLEY hand-held screen freaks out, which sucks, but like I think I stated before one of the guys at the DYNO shop said the hand-helds are not the most reliable thing.
I have a squeak inside the cab where some wire loom loops around the roll cage.
I did put a new tune in it, but I have nothing to report other than it starts better, but I think that's because it had 93 octane in it now vs E85. Maybe it ran better, but maybe that's just me thinking that it did.
Heater worked pretty good---temp outside was in the low 20*s.
Steers pretty good and I doubt I can make it better and I'm not sure it needs to be better.
I'm not happy about the brakes. I think they should work better, but maybe the rear axle leaking onto the rotor that I've never seen is the problem or part of the problem if it's been dripping really slowly.
from 5am to 7am and then take Branson to school and then to the office I go.2 loud clunks--one I think was from a 1/4" rod about 12" long I left on the rear fender that fell off---the other clunk I don't know what it was( I need to crawl around it. It happened when I left the office, but it never repeated and there were no new issues while driving back home.
Rear driver's axle seal started to leak
1st to 2nd shift happens at 3800 rpm
When coasting and it downshifts from 2nd to 1st it seems like the tranny is slipping when you give it gas to keep the MPH constant -I need more drive time to see if it's just a combo of rpms & noise(it's loud) because otherwise everything seems fine. Maybe it's the stall of the torque converter, which is what I'm leaning towards.
The HOLLEY hand-held screen freaks out, which sucks, but like I think I stated before one of the guys at the DYNO shop said the hand-helds are not the most reliable thing.
I have a squeak inside the cab where some wire loom loops around the roll cage.
I did put a new tune in it, but I have nothing to report other than it starts better, but I think that's because it had 93 octane in it now vs E85. Maybe it ran better, but maybe that's just me thinking that it did.
Heater worked pretty good---temp outside was in the low 20*s.
Steers pretty good and I doubt I can make it better and I'm not sure it needs to be better.
I'm not happy about the brakes. I think they should work better, but maybe the rear axle leaking onto the rotor that I've never seen is the problem or part of the problem if it's been dripping really slowly.
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Well I found the 1/4" rod in the garage, so that wasn't the 1st clunk I heard, so no new news on that front. I still need to crawl around under it and see I can see something awry.
It was windy and cold Friday afternoon, plus the wife had me running around so nothing accomplished that day.
Yesterday and today I braved the cold below-zero wind chill, so that was a bit tough, but I had the heat gun out, so I used that to help warm my fingers when they got too cold. Today I just left the electric garage heater running although I had the door open(about an hour) and would run to it about every 15 minutes to get the digits warmed up so they could function. I didn't get much done, but I put the 4 wheel drive emblems back on the hood. I had to drill holes in them and use some #6 bolts to secure them and I moved my battery tender under the hood and built a mount for it so now I don't have to remove it every time I want to drive it. I may re-do it in the future, but for now it works.
I'm not sure what's leaking at the rear driver's wheel as it hasn't leaked since I parked it on Friday. Maybe the rear diff is low or maybe it's the brake caliper. I'll check the gear oil maybe tomorrow or in the next day or two as it's now getting back into the 20's and go from there.
It was windy and cold Friday afternoon, plus the wife had me running around so nothing accomplished that day.
Yesterday and today I braved the cold below-zero wind chill, so that was a bit tough, but I had the heat gun out, so I used that to help warm my fingers when they got too cold. Today I just left the electric garage heater running although I had the door open(about an hour) and would run to it about every 15 minutes to get the digits warmed up so they could function. I didn't get much done, but I put the 4 wheel drive emblems back on the hood. I had to drill holes in them and use some #6 bolts to secure them and I moved my battery tender under the hood and built a mount for it so now I don't have to remove it every time I want to drive it. I may re-do it in the future, but for now it works.
I'm not sure what's leaking at the rear driver's wheel as it hasn't leaked since I parked it on Friday. Maybe the rear diff is low or maybe it's the brake caliper. I'll check the gear oil maybe tomorrow or in the next day or two as it's now getting back into the 20's and go from there.
Pic of 4 wheel drive hood emblems I had to bolt on since the rivets were shot and the front skid plate. There’s LEDs in there that shine down and are to light up WILLYS on the ground but since I’m no lighting expert I’m not sure it worked. I think the letters are too big and the LEDs are too close, but I’ve yet to get it out in a dark dark area to really assess, although a test of cutting letters out on a piece of paper & using my phone flashlight and moving it close and the back revealed I may have made the letters too big. They are ¾” wide and basically 3” tall x 3” long. I made them that big for ventilation for the power steering cooler being protected, so the lighting may not work except for just more under the truck night crawling lighting. If I move the lights then there’s hoses and stuff that will block the lights but I’ll do a test using a battery powered shop light propped up and see what happens. Oh yea making sure you spell WILLYS backwards to spell out correctly on the ground makes your mind wiggle a bit, especially when cutting it in metal!!
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gt1guy
Apparently a racist
I have to say, that thing looks bitchin.
n.I bought Sloppy Mechanics "add a sensor harness", well add 2 sensors harness, so that I can hook up the tranny pressure sensor. Hopefully it will be here by weeks end I can get it installed this weekend.
Slapped a new rear hub seal in it last night too, so hopefully that takes care of the leak. I found a small burr in the hub where the seal sits and filed it off and smeared some sealant in there and slammed the seal home. I saw a video on an updated seal that rotates, but they didn't have one, so it was just the ol' National Seal 1081 that came home with me. Well actually 2, cuz I figured if one goes then my luck will mean the other will go here soon!!
I did find my passenger lower link bar had a loose nut, so I plan to attack that tonight and look at all the other nuts and bolts under there while I'm at it to see if I can locate the clunk, but maybe it was the link bar although I'm not sure it's the cause because the heim wasn't unthreaded any, but I need to measure it against the driver's side to be sure it didn't move.
Slapped a new rear hub seal in it last night too, so hopefully that takes care of the leak. I found a small burr in the hub where the seal sits and filed it off and smeared some sealant in there and slammed the seal home. I saw a video on an updated seal that rotates, but they didn't have one, so it was just the ol' National Seal 1081 that came home with me. Well actually 2, cuz I figured if one goes then my luck will mean the other will go here soon!!
I did find my passenger lower link bar had a loose nut, so I plan to attack that tonight and look at all the other nuts and bolts under there while I'm at it to see if I can locate the clunk, but maybe it was the link bar although I'm not sure it's the cause because the heim wasn't unthreaded any, but I need to measure it against the driver's side to be sure it didn't move.
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Drove to work again and no leak so far, so hopefully that issue is put to bed.
Long ago when tearing the interior apart I removed a sliding bolt gate lock that one of the previous owner's had installed on the passenger door. I thought it was there to lock the door and maybe it was one intention, but the other would be because the door doesn't always latch and it will fly open. I keep leaning toward buying some bear claw latches, but I haven't pulled the trigger yet, but I think I will once Spring gets here and see if I can make them work or I might hit up the junkyard and cut some out of a couple of doors and take the all the door handle parts just in case I have to modify the whole set up. In the meantime, I'll put the sliding bolt lock back on it (if I can find it) or I'll make a pivoting piece of metal to keep the door closed.
I hacked together a glove box compartment this evening and it's in the paint booth right now. The last two evenings before that I fabbed up a structure to protect the fuel line, tranny, and vent hoses that run above the rear t-case output in case the driveshaft let's loose. I may do the same at the pinion.
It's supposed to be in the 40's starting tomorrow for a few days, so I need to diagnose why my IAC setting keeps changing. I'm not sure if it's when I turn the ignition off or when the kill switch is activated. Also the Sloppy Mechanics "add a sensor" wiring harness showed up so I will wire it up to the tranny pressure transducer.
Long ago when tearing the interior apart I removed a sliding bolt gate lock that one of the previous owner's had installed on the passenger door. I thought it was there to lock the door and maybe it was one intention, but the other would be because the door doesn't always latch and it will fly open. I keep leaning toward buying some bear claw latches, but I haven't pulled the trigger yet, but I think I will once Spring gets here and see if I can make them work or I might hit up the junkyard and cut some out of a couple of doors and take the all the door handle parts just in case I have to modify the whole set up. In the meantime, I'll put the sliding bolt lock back on it (if I can find it) or I'll make a pivoting piece of metal to keep the door closed.
I hacked together a glove box compartment this evening and it's in the paint booth right now. The last two evenings before that I fabbed up a structure to protect the fuel line, tranny, and vent hoses that run above the rear t-case output in case the driveshaft let's loose. I may do the same at the pinion.
It's supposed to be in the 40's starting tomorrow for a few days, so I need to diagnose why my IAC setting keeps changing. I'm not sure if it's when I turn the ignition off or when the kill switch is activated. Also the Sloppy Mechanics "add a sensor" wiring harness showed up so I will wire it up to the tranny pressure transducer.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
I thought for a while about hooking up a accusump to the pressure port on my 6l90. Figured it would help on steep inclines/declines where the pickup wasn't in the oil. Turned out the max pressure seen at the port was ~300psi. Nobody that makes accusumps said that they would hold the pressure.
I read an article years ago where they did add an accusump on a turbo 400 I believe. The really cool part of it was that they could open the valve and bump start the rig. I thought that was really cool to be able to do.
I read an article years ago where they did add an accusump on a turbo 400 I believe. The really cool part of it was that they could open the valve and bump start the rig. I thought that was really cool to be able to do.
IAC: Like I said before it doesn't keep its setting and I don't know why. I have an ignition switch and a kill switch, so I have left the kill switch on and just used the ignition switch for off and on and what happens is if I turn it off for the night and come back the next day and start it the IAC isn't staying set to where it was the day before. But if I start it and let it run like 3-4 minutes and then turn it off and start it again the IAC then returns where it was the day before. Why? I do not know yet and the only thing I can think of to change is where one of the Terminator x Max wires is to be hot in start and run shouldn't be tied to the ignition switch(where it's hot in both start and run) but to another separate wire(which I have 3-4 of), but I need to see what happens with the kill switch before I make an attempt to changing the wire connection.
Tonight I hit the kill switch so the ignition circuit is dead and tomorrow I'll start it and see what happens with the IAC and I'll report back.
I'm adding a winch to the rear, which will be mounted in the bed, but also removable to mount in the rear receiver hitch. I have an idea that it can be used in both places, but I'm am still in the planning stages of seeing what will need to be done to make it operate to its full extent in the bed or will it just be used to lift or drag stuff in the bed that I can't lift that high or shouldn't try to lift, like a full-size tire or whatever. I may also use it for a suck-down winch in the rear once I get the first part figured out.
Tonight I hit the kill switch so the ignition circuit is dead and tomorrow I'll start it and see what happens with the IAC and I'll report back.
I'm adding a winch to the rear, which will be mounted in the bed, but also removable to mount in the rear receiver hitch. I have an idea that it can be used in both places, but I'm am still in the planning stages of seeing what will need to be done to make it operate to its full extent in the bed or will it just be used to lift or drag stuff in the bed that I can't lift that high or shouldn't try to lift, like a full-size tire or whatever. I may also use it for a suck-down winch in the rear once I get the first part figured out.
Ok, I test the IAC setting with the kill switch being turned off last night and then turning it back on today and firing up the motor and again the IAC setting is different vs the night before after the 2nd start-up. So I turn the key off and then fire it back up and the IAC goes down to the correct setting, which is between 2-10%. I have it set at 4-5%. So what happens is the IAC stays above 50 when the coolant temp gets to 195 or so on the first start-up and it doesn't matter if the kill switch has been turned off or left on, so it leads me to the next test of taking the wire off the ignition switch and tieing it to one of my other hot on run & hot in start wires and see what happens. I hopefully can do that tomorrow as Friday is DYNO tune day.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Hopefully you get it figured out before tune day. Sounds like you're headed down the right path.
The directions say to "not" connect that wire to a dirty source like the wire that would power a coil, so maybe the ignition switch is a dirty source, but then if it's dirty why after the 2nd start-up does the IAC % fall into the correct setting and not stay high? That's what's baffling, but we shall see if changing the wire does the trick and if it does then all is good and if it doesn't then more head scratching.