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'56 willys truck

Got the brake pedal repositioned and started on an oversized go-go pedal. Not sure of final size but I have a starting point to play with while doing more test driving.
 

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So I put the windshield wiper arms and wipers on and the wipers will need an upgrade if possible, but they work like a 1950’s set of Willys wipers work even with the 2 speed motor. So that something in the future that I will work on.

Now on to the tranny. Yesterday I jacked up the rear to get it as level as possible to check tranny fluid level and I added a qt or so to it and today I started it up and dang if it didn’t shift from 1st to 2nd and to 3rd, but it wouldn’t shift until the rpm’s got to 2700-2900. I’m not sure that’s ok or not as the rear was still on jack stands and wheels spin in’ that fast makes for a bit of nervousness. But it shifted and that was a good feeling. I did trace wires to make sure I hadn’t forgot something. Now with that being said my mind is poking me about locking up the torque converter and I don’t recall if I need to do something with the Holley Terminator x Max or not, so I’ve got to look into that. I’ll double check the fluid level again tomorrow if all goes well.

Ok, now for the bad. We bled the brakes again and really nothing there. I start it up and let it warm up a bit and then put it into gear, reverse and D and apply the brakes. Now for some reason they won’t stop the rear wheels from turning. It slows them down, but it will not stop them. Now the front wheels are on the ground and the rear is on jack stands, so I’m not sure if the front has the same issue or not, But before the brakes would stop the rears and fronts pretty good when all 4 wheels were up on jack stands. I keep revving and applying brakes and at one point the brakes stop the rear and kill the engine. So I think let’s check the power steering reservoir because of the hydro boost system and for sure it was low. So of course I top it off and resume the test. Again the brakes won’t stop the rears from turning and then all of a sudden it would and then it Wouldn’t and it would and then the rear brakes locked up!! Damn that’s weird. So I jack up a front tire to see if it’s locked up but it’s not, So right now the rears are locked up and maybe my in-line brake lock has malfunctioned or the calipers have an issue. Seems strange they would work then not work then work and then lock up, so I have some diagnosing to do.

My in-line brake lock is one where you push the pedal down and push the spring loaded knob down and release the brake and it locks up the rear calipers. To release it you push down on the brake pedal and it’s supposed to release itself. I used it on my Willy’s Jeep and had no issues, but maybe my luck isn’t on my side with this truck. I do have a lever in-line lock that I may replace it with and then see what happens.

Here's a link to my line lock: except mine is for -04AN lines

 
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So I opened the bleed screw on the rear passenger brake caliper and the caliper retracted and so did the driver's side caliper. Umhh, what to to do? Well let's replace the line lock with a lever style is my decision, so I remove it and I have to remove the mount and make a new mount because the lever style won't let the door shut. So that's what I did. It's all mounted up and tomorrow I'll bleed the brakes and see what happens when applying the brakes. If it locks up again I'm going to lean toward there's something wrong with the master cylinder. Stay tuned.
 
Bled the brakes and fired the rig up and it stops the wheels and killed the engine again. That has to be some tuning issue. But the brakes seem to be fixed. The downside is now it’s back to not shifting, so it’s time to figure out the tuning.

Pic below shows the old line lock and the new lever-style line lock. I like it much better than the old one, as it’s easier to use.

I removed the radiator and the support structure from the bed of the truck.
 

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Looks like a post or two got deleted somehow, so anyway it doesn't shift and I had said that the IAC % had changed and why was unknown and it still is, but all I have to do is do a TPS reset and it's fine, but I don't want to or should I need to do this everytime I jump in and start it, so at some point I need to figure that out.

Brakes are still working like they should or at least on the jack stands they are.

I put some mirrors on it, which involved me buying a new set and using parts from the old setup and the new ones so I wouldn't have to drill new holes. I still have some adjustments to make , but I'm holding out as I may but a hoop over the cowl right behind the hood where I have a gap created by needed to raise the hood for the windshield wipier motor. But for now they will work.

I ordered some limit straps, so once those get here I'll work on getting them installed. The rears are going from shock bolt to shock bolt, but the fronts will be from frame to axle as I need to have a shorter bolts on the front due to the steering arm hitting longer bolts.
 
Hood gap from needing to raise the hood for the windshield wiper motor.
 

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Went out and started it up to see what the IAC% was and below is what it was after it warmed up and after I did the TPS reset the other day. I think it settles in at 42% and then I shut it off and did the TPS reset again and it settled in at 4-5%. Tomorrow I’ll try and check it again. It’s 18* out right now and the next few days it gets colder and colder down to -11* overnight and warms up to single digits. Starting it will be interesting at those temps due to the e85.

On a good note the defroster cleared the windshield, but of course it’s just sitting, so how it does on the road is still pending further testing.

 
There's a definite issue with the IAC changing settings after I turn it off overnight, so I need to figure out why. I thought the wiring said hook-up the corresponding red wire to hot in run & start, but maybe I misread it. I need to look at the directions again. I'm up to Part 8(fuel tuning strategies) in the Evans Performance Acacemy tutorial videos. Picked up a few things about all the ICONs and features in Parts 1-7, but I really want to see how he figures out settings in the tables.

I also need to work on my intake setup, but it's -13 out right now and high or -6 today and the next few days are just a few degrees better, so there's nothing but watching the tutorials until maybe the end of next week where it's supposed to get into the 30's-40's range for a couple of days. I'm not really sure what I can do with the intake, because the room I have, so it will either be just a shroud if I can't relocate it or an octupus of smaller intake hoses to suck in some colder air.
 
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Yea for sure and I've been scribbling. I'll have to re-watch some of them and maybe all of them to get it all into my one brain cell.
 
On my son's 5.3 he wanted a battery shutoff for anti theft reasons. We hooked it up but every time he would shut off power the computer would have to "relearn" itself for a while. We ended up running a wire from the battery to the PCM so it would always have power. The shutoff still works but the PCM always has juice.
 
jjeep71 that's how I have mine wired and I've left my battery shut off on for the last month to make sure it's not the issue. I just need the temp to get above freezing so I can tinker some more.
 
Not much to report because it's been too frickin' cold to work on the thing. But my limit straps showed up, so since it's supposed to be in the 30's to maybe low 40's this week I should be able to get started on getting them installed. Rears are easy, but the fronts are going to need mounts. And like I said previously I want to see what I can do about the intake filter location.

I'm up to video 24 out of 51 now in the Evans Performance Academy, I've skipped one and I'll skip a few of the others that won't pertain to me right now(I can go back and watch them later if I want) so it looks like there's 12 more that I really need to watch. Now with that being said, my wife gave me as a Christmas present the money to go get it dyno-tuned, so I'm beyond humbled and happy and yes she's an amazing woman in more ways than I deserve. So this week I'll schedule that to happen, but I'm sure it's at least 2-4 weeks away before there's a slot open. Now with that being said I'm still watching the videos and will do some tuning on what I learn and try and figure out the tranny if the weather permits. I figure I might be able to save some money on the tuning if I get some things dialed in better, but we shall see.
 
Friday the 13th of Jan for dyno tune--what can go wrong with a date like that and my luck!!?? I just have to come up with some smaller tires for the dyno.
Merry Christmas Chris, It's good to see your build is gettin close to been done.
 
Friday the 13th of Jan for dyno tune--what can go wrong with a date like that and my luck!!?? I just have to come up with some smaller tires for the dyno.

Is that the dyno shop saying you need smaller tires? What size are you going to run?
 
Friday the 13th of Jan for dyno tune--what can go wrong with a date like that and my luck!!?? I just have to come up with some smaller tires for the dyno.
I've always had good luck on Friday the 13th, so here's to hoping the same for you... :beer:
 
I got my limit straps installed, relocated my air filter to the other side of the engine, added a 1/2" thick by 3/4" tall piece to the top of the grill to keep the hood from hitting the cold air pipe and threw together a safe tune learned from the Evans Performance Acadamy. I need to watch 3-4 more videos of live tuning a supercharged motor and then probably go back and watch a couple that I skipped and re-watch a few others, but all in all I'm glad I've paid the $50 for this month to watch and learn. I think it's worth it. I may adjust the tune also, but we shall see. I'm still not sure where some numbers are coming from, as that's not explained, but I'm thinking it's from some book or books about forced induction, because it doesn't matter on some of the settings what size or manufacturer your motor is. They are for all motors and this guy has it memorized as do some of the other internet tuners.

Oh yea I found I hadn't tightened one of the heater hose clamps. It wasn't leaking but I had to push it away from the frame when I was working on the passenger side limit strap and then it started leaking. I can't believe it never blew off. And after I got this new tune installed(it starts way better at 36* outside now than before) there's seems to be another leak, but it was raining so I wasn't in the mood to crawl around and see where it's coming from, but it's anti-freeze, so it's either from the intercooler or engine coolant system.

On Saturday when I came out to keep tinkering on the Willys I noticed gear oil on the driveway which aligns with where my tranny, doubler and t-case vents are in the bed of the truck. Now off the t-case I have a fill port that goes up there too and it's capped, so it looked like that's where the leak came from, so I have some diagnosing to do there to make sure it's either from there the vent or ?? and why it puked it out.

So yesterday after I throw the new "safe" tune it and it's warmed up I decide I'm going to see if the tranny will shift, so I slowly rev the motor up, to 2500, 3000, 3500 and then 4,000 and all of sudden I think it shifted, but it scared the shit out of me, cuz I'm jack stands and it shook the truck, so I decided that was enough, cuz if I come off the jack stands I'm going through the garage door!! I guess it's time to turn the thing around park the other vehicles on the street, so that if do happen to come off the jack stands I'll have enough space to get stopped. And then I'll see if I can repeat the scenario and then start to figure out why.

I still need to come up with some tires though for the dyno on the 13th.
 
I drove it yesterday around the neighborhood and damn is this thing loud! I need to figure out the rest of the exhaust and maybe add another muffler if that doesn't tame it down. But with that being said it shifted, yee haw.

So let's back up here: on Saturday I unplugged the Terminator x-Max tranny wiring and plugged in the the Jake's Performance manual shift fooler to see if it would shift and sadly it didn't. So now I'm at a total loss and am slowly fuming inside about "did the tranny builder do something weird here?" So I say screw it as it's cold and go inside. Yesterday I decide to plug the Terminator x Max tranny wiring back in and in doing so I decide to just check to make sure I didn't switch the VSS plug and Turbine plug and sure as shit I had, so I swap them and test it. I start it up and rev it and it doesn't shift, so I said fuck it I'm gonna drive this thing, cuz I have to drive it to the dyno, to the DMV and I need to know how fast I can go. So on the 2nd trip around the neighborhood I have a street where I can get some speed up and damn if it doesn't shift but up at like 3800rpm. So ok it shifts but I'm not sure if it's from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th, but right now I know it shifts. A few more trips around the block and I park it. I go inside and re-watch the Transmission video on Evans Performance and see I need to change a couple of settings, so I do and that's where I'm at now. I need to download it onto to the SD card and then upload it to the Terminator x Max ECU and take it for another test drive to see if anything changed.

OK, after watching the Evan's Performance Tutorial vids I see I should tune this thing with normal gas and not E85, so that's another reason I want to drive it so that I can burn up some of the E85 in the tank and empty the remaining 8-10 gals of E85 into my gas cans and then put regular gas in it to do the dyno tuning and then drain the regular gas and put back in the E85 and further adjust the tune per the vids. I'm going to talk to the tuner to see what he says also. I'm not sure why it matters, since I have the flex fuel sensor installed and it does the calculations according to how much E85 you have in the system, but it's stated in the vids and I'm no tuner!!

4 out of my 5 tires leak. I sprayed some soapy water around the bead locks on 3 of them, one has a plug in it that leaks and it's sitting in the garage so I didn't spray test it, and the bead locks don't leak and there's nothing else bubbling, so I just go back to getting it off the jack stands so that I can drive it and other little tidbits and then I see I have two that have side wall leaks(a cut and a gouge) and another leak here and there, so this will need to get looked into and right now my inclination(due to lack of funds) is to go have them fixed vs buying new tires, since they have to be patched from the inside. Yea I know I can patch them on the exterior, but it's the leaks I didn't find in the treads that concern me and I don't want to buy a bunch of patches and run out and then find I have some in the tread that need to patched from the inside. There's plenty of tread on them still, so it seems like the thing to do. I do wish I could get new tires though. I thought about the slime and exterior patches, but if the slime didn't work then the word is you can't do any inside patching once you slime a tire. I guess I could buy some innertubes, so maybe I should look into that before I do anything.
 
So in my quest for tuning knowledge and watching the Evan's Performance vids and now talking specifically about the transmission vid I've decided to add a pressure transducer to the tranny so that I can see the pressure of this thing when I want to plug in a laptop(I'm not sure the handheld has the ability to show that or not-I'll have to check and see) and to see if it will help with tuning if needed. Holley wanted $160 for it, so me being on the pinch pennies schedule I went on Amachinazon and found one for $25 with a pigtail and another one for $15 without the pigtail and ordered them. This way I have a back up if the original shits the bed and who knows maybe both will be duds, but I'm going for it, cuz that's what I have to spend. It's to be here Wednesday and I'm going to try and get it installed before the dyno day, but it will be close.

I also noticed my tranny cooler fan came on yesterday, so at least it works, but I probably need to add a temp gauge to the system to keep track of that, but that will be down the road as of now.
 
Another item on the tuning list is in the vids he says to tune it on pump gas first and then check the tune with E85 in the tank, so I need to drain the E85 in the tank(about 14-15 gallons in it now-40gal tank).So the plan is to burn up 4-5 gallons and dump 10 gals into my fuel cans and take 10gals of the E85 with me. Then I need to get some pump gas and dump it in the tank and then run it up to the gas station and put some more pump gas in it for the dyno. Of course I decided to extend the exhaust, so I need to finish that up in the next couple of days and then I can do the pump gas switch.
 
Short little things, maybe 12" or 18"(I don't remember the exact length) cherry bomb style. There just was not a lot of room to do much more than a bullet-style muffler.

Tonight I basically finished, well at least for now, the exhaust and got it extended just past the rear axle. I just need to buy some 5/16" all thread to make a u-bolt for one of the hangers. I may be able to add another muffler to each side later, but I need to make sure my routing will work upon full compression. It should, but until it's proven you are never 100% sure. I am going to have to wrap some of the pipe where it gets close (2" or so) to my fuel lines and the brake line and I still need to add another skid plate to protect the fuel pump and that will help keep the heat away also.
 
Well it shifts and downshifts from a gear to another gear, but as of yet I don’t know what gear I’m starting in. I think it’s first, but I’m not 100% sure at this time. I know it shifts around 3800 rpm’s and I think it downshifts around 3000-3400 rpm’s. I need more drive time to get those numbers, but it will certainly be known on the Dyno as to what it does. I did put the latest tune in it with the changes to a couple of tranny settings. I got it up to 40-41 mph but just for a second or so. The road I was on is business/residential and about ¼ mile or so so I can’t or shouldn’t go any faster as I’m still in the let’s make sure stage, but that will end on Friday as I’m driving it to the dyno on roads that have a 45 mph limit.


Now for some reason the handheld started going nuts flashing different screens, so that’s a bit unsettling, so I decided to come home and park it. It had done this before, but this was multiple screens vs the flashing to one screen before. The motor didn’t miss a beat though, so maybe the connection to the ECU is not connected like it should be.

The pressure transducer arrived so if I can figure how to wire the thing I will try and get it installed tomorrow, but I may only get it screwed into the tranny, the ground wire and maybe signal wire connected. I think I may have add a resistor or something to get the voltage down. This is uncharted territory for me, so I got some figgeren out to do. But first off tomorrow I need to drain the E85 out and put some pump gas in it and that will require a run or two to the ol gas station, so that may hinder the pressure transducer install plus it’s a high of 30* tomorrow.

Extending the exhaust helped with the cab noise, so that’s good, but she’s still plenty loud.
 
I think the Handheld screen issue has something to do with my ignition switch, because I noticed today when I was turning it on and off to re-prime the fuel system due to draining out the E85 and dumping some 93 back in it, the screen would blink on and off when I just moved the switch a little while in the ON position. Plus sometimes it won’t auto kick itself back to ON when you are starting it and then release it once started. It’s an old style switch but new, so that kind of sucks, but I’m going to swap it out this weekend I think.

I just found out that dyno tuning tomorrow is iffy due to the tuner being sick the last few days. So I’ll show up and they are going to do an inspection of the truck to make sure it’s safe for the dyno & if the tuner shows up then maybe I’m a go and if he’s not there then it’s a no go and we will schedule later. How lucky will I be or not be on Friday the 13th is the question? I’m leaning that it won’t happen, cuz that’s how things seem to go for me. If it doesn’t work out then I’m going to work on getting a better tune in it myself as that will cut down on future dyno time needed.
 
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