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apparently my 12ton press is not enough to press in the lug studs :homer:

also my 12 ton press doesnt have a wide enough base for the wheel bearing tool :homer::homer:

had to have someone press the lug studs for me, i was able to widen the base for the tool

alright time for the next fail, i had an old arb third with a blown seal and a couple chipped teeth, so i figured i'd replace the seal and throw it in as a temp third

weeeellllll i replaced the collar and seal that the copper line is attached to and cleaned everything up, hooked everything back up and it still leaks:homer::homer::homer:

the "inner" seal is bad too, and i didnt have a great way to pressure test it on the bench, i was able to give it some PSI but not the full 100PSI that they need

welp whatever it still works as an open diff :laughing:

but that arb diff will be coming out soon anyways because my new gears just came in:smokin:

i decided to be the guinea pig for us toyota 8" guys and i got a yukon ring and pinion thats been shot peened, rem polished and cryotreated that will be going into a detroit locker :smokin:

also im going to put an anti wrap bar on the rear axle to help as well

and we'll see how long this third lasts, hopefully its money well spent........
rem polish gears.jpg
 
Arickvan said:
apparently my 12ton press is not enough to press in the lug studs :homer:

also my 12 ton press doesnt have a wide enough base for the wheel bearing tool :homer::homer:

had to have someone press the lug studs for me, i was able to widen the base for the tool

alright time for the next fail, i had an old arb third with a blown seal and a couple chipped teeth, so i figured i'd replace the seal and throw it in as a temp third

weeeellllll i replaced the collar and seal that the copper line is attached to and cleaned everything up, hooked everything back up and it still leaks:homer::homer::homer:

the "inner" seal is bad too, and i didnt have a great way to pressure test it on the bench, i was able to give it some PSI but not the full 100PSI that they need

welp whatever it still works as an open diff :laughing:

but that arb diff will be coming out soon anyways because my new gears just came in:smokin:

i decided to be the guinea pig for us toyota 8" guys and i got a yukon ring and pinion thats been shot peened, rem polished and cryotreated that will be going into a detroit locker :smokin:

also im going to put an anti wrap bar on the rear axle to help as well

and we'll see how long this third lasts, hopefully its money well spent........
rem polish gears.jpg
Click to expand...
G2 gears are currently the best you can get for Toyotas. They are double shot peened and laped from the factory.
 
Dan in Lincoln? I believe he’s friends with TKO. I can ask Stoutrockmar for the number.

Arickvan said:
welp thats up to current day, anyone know anything about cryo treating toyota gears?

also if theres anyone even localish that does cryo treating??
Click to expand...
 
Aisin said:
G2 gears are currently the best you can get for Toyotas. They are double shot peened and laped from the factory.
Click to expand...

Etyler2 said:
Dan in Lincoln? I believe he’s friends with TKO. I can ask Stoutrockmar for the number.
Click to expand...
Well fawk you guys are about a month late on this advise :laughing:

Yukon gears thru filthy motorsports were the only place I found that will do all the extra stuff you want and ship it to your door
 
Little update, went snow wheeling a couple times and everything is working good :smokin:

Idk if it's the rem polished gears or the better areo dynamics with the top on or fixing the intake boot or just a combination of all of it but this things cruises on flat freeways at 75mph no problem 5th gear :smokin::smokin:

2 small issues that I'll dig into soon are the rear cv joint coming out of the transfer case rubs a cross member now sometimes and when using the winch it kills the stereo and some interior lights
 
So right now I'm planning on cleaning it up with one of those painless distribution terminals that I have laying around but I do have a question

What's up with the 80amp relay wire?

That wire goes back to the 80amp relay that's in the engine fuse panel, looks like that relay is an easy way to power something big but why did this guy have 3 power sources go to this spot?

Alternator, 80amp relay and starter(direct battery) all to one spot??
 
Maybe the alternator wire is the feed to the fuse block and the others on that side are just there for nonfused junction feed? Idk for sure.
 
12bravo said:
Maybe the alternator wire is the feed to the fuse block and the others on that side are just there for nonfused junction feed? Idk for sure.
Click to expand...
ya idk, i wonder if this was someones attempt at "MO POWA!" :laughing:

have you seen anyone use that 80 amp relay for anything?
 
Well I replaced that wiring mess with a new mess :homer:not super happy with how it looks

Oh I guess this pic is from before I bolted it to the fender :laughing:
PXL_20220413_221453701.jpg
 
Swapped out the pitman arm for a sky's offroad one with less drop and it just barely clears the frame

PXL_20220420_012321091.jpg
 
I messed up and didn't take a pic of what it looked like before, but the cv joint just barely rubbed the cross member when the rear suspension compressed, now I should be good :smokin:
PXL_20220522_010318423.jpg
 
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Welp the rear bumper did not survive the Rubicon :laughing:

I messed up and backed into a boulder and that KO'd the driver side (my fault) but the passenger side took the normal bumps and bangs and bent as well

My buddy has me looking at the 4x innovations one as a replacement, looks pretty stout

This was rear bumper number 2 :homer:
 
Soooo I foolishly tried to fix one of the dents, I got frustrated and cut the whole section out so I could handle it better on the bench

Welp I'm no body guy :lmao:
PXL_20220611_230954493.jpg
PXL_20220611_232823461.jpg
 
Also I got the new 4xinnovations bumper mounted up

I'm not super happy with how it looks, but this one should last

My buddy had this bumper on his old rig so I knew what I was getting into, it looks ok, just not exactly how I would prefer it
PXL_20220624_004217593.jpg
PXL_20220624_004206879.jpg
 
Hey it helps if your O2 sensor is plugged in :homer:

Just in case anyone was wondering :laughing:

Learned how to check the check engine codes, just jump the plug in the engine bay and count the blinks

PXL_20220710_210004354.jpg
PXL_20220710_210033870.jpg
 
Welp I've got quite the phone call to make tomorrow, local trans shop did the install

PXL_20230327_231339382.jpg

PXL_20230327_231705413.jpg
 
I'm pissed that a shop fawked it up, hell I can fawk it up myself for free!

But I'm bummed that I didn't get to see how long the cryo treat and rem polished lasted, now I have to decide whether to dump money into again or go super cheap :homer:
 
Arickvan said:
Well I replaced that wiring mess with a new mess :homer:not super happy with how it looks

Oh I guess this pic is from before I bolted it to the fender :laughing:
PXL_20220413_221453701.jpg
Click to expand...
good am,

how is this working. i only ask because i discovered constant duty solenoids with a ground trigger awhile back and it has made my life so much simpler.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
good am,

how is this working. i only ask because i discovered constant duty solenoids with a ground trigger awhile back and it has made my life so much simpler.
Click to expand...
It's been working good as far as I can tell, haven't had a weak or dead battery after sitting

What did you hook your ground trigger to? Ignition or to like a switch?
 
very simple for me to understand. the black square relays have me running wires everywhere and plain old suck, but if you understand them then cool

but i understand this alot better.

electric fan for instance.

this pic is not a constant duty one but the idea is the same. you bring you big power wire from a battery or distro lug, then the other side goes to the fan. fan is grounded out there by the engine or a short ground wire. then the switch wire is a wire from solenoid to switch and path to ground next to switch. for me it just eliminated extra wires, but i am by no means an expert. i just understand this simple solution is all. all the connections in them black relays always fucked me up.


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1680103945821.png
 
Third member update: talked to the shop, they looked into it and made some phone calls, they'll eat the labor on a new one but that's it

I talked to yota masters and they said they always use the bolt caps or safety wired bolts when they can't use the caps

The shop I used said the mounting holes on my Detroit locker carrier got oblonged and I should get a new one

:homer::homer: so shame on me, some shame on the shop I used and some shame on yota masters cuz I bought there setup kit and it doesn't include the bolt caps

Shame on everyone! :flipoff2:
 
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