dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
That's the plan! It needs some modifications done though, apparently the guy who used to own it was considerably smaller than my neighbor, so it needs a new cage
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33 Chevy
- Thread starter dnsfailure
- Start date
That's the plan! It needs some modifications done though, apparently the guy who used to own it was considerably smaller than my neighbor, so it needs a new cage
Poriggity
Ketchup Dog
Digging this.. subscribing. The fact that you plan to make it a daily driver is even better.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
Made an angled piece to fit over the top of the frame on each side, and then burned in the front crossmember, that's all I got done today, between regular chores and shooting the shit with neighbors.
I suck at welding overhead (the last photo), that weld looks a little thin, but I think it's ok. There's probably 1.5' of weld holding each side of the crossmember to the frame rails.
Next step, make some plates to box up the frame from the crossmember forward. Shouldn't be hard, just a lot of grinding.
I suck at welding overhead (the last photo), that weld looks a little thin, but I think it's ok. There's probably 1.5' of weld holding each side of the crossmember to the frame rails.
Next step, make some plates to box up the frame from the crossmember forward. Shouldn't be hard, just a lot of grinding.
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dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
Decided to put the front "bumper" in before boxing. I rolled the tube slightly, I think that will give it a nice look. It's 1.75" .120 wall tubing.
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dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
Dooo eeeettt!!
Driver side is boxed, just need to weld the bottom. Ran out of light, will finish it tomorrow. Then weld up the passenger side.
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dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
spent some quality time with the angle grinder and got the welds ground down on the boxing plates. I left all the welds on the crossmembers because I really don't like grinding all THAT much, aaand this ain't no Boyd Coddington car 
. (did you hear he died!?)
Primed, and first coat of paint.
. (did you hear he died!?)Primed, and first coat of paint.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
While waiting for the paint to fully dry on everything (I hate painting...) I did a Shifter relocation on the TKO-500, from the rear to the middle. Forgot to take a before photo.
It won't have a neutral safety switch anymore because of the relocation swap, but that's fine. Most of my vehicles don't have one either.
And this is the aluminum GM Muncie bell housing that my neighbor gave me. It cleaned up nicely :)
Since the transmission is ready to go now, I'll probably take the motor off the stand, and install the clutch and bolt the transmission to the motor tomorrow.
It won't have a neutral safety switch anymore because of the relocation swap, but that's fine. Most of my vehicles don't have one either.
And this is the aluminum GM Muncie bell housing that my neighbor gave me. It cleaned up nicely :)
Since the transmission is ready to go now, I'll probably take the motor off the stand, and install the clutch and bolt the transmission to the motor tomorrow.
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Boyd died??? WTF!
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
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dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
I bolted up the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate to the motor, tomorrow I'll measure for the hydraulic throwout bearing, and bolt it on. Then bolt up the transmission to the block, and it should be good to go. I've always done mechanical cables for clutches, never done a hydraulic clutch before.... I may have questions soon.
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dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
bolted on all the suspension parts last night. Just roughly eyeballed the alignments. I'll be taking the time to measure as best I can once the weight of the motor is in there.
The in put shaft for the steering rack is pointing straight at the motor mount, I'll probably use a joint thats fixed to the frame just below the motor mount. Routing it below would probably make more sense than going above it? There's plenty of plate there on the frame from where the old steering box used to be. Once I determine where I want that joint to be, I'll trim a lot of that excess plate off.
The in put shaft for the steering rack is pointing straight at the motor mount, I'll probably use a joint thats fixed to the frame just below the motor mount. Routing it below would probably make more sense than going above it? There's plenty of plate there on the frame from where the old steering box used to be. Once I determine where I want that joint to be, I'll trim a lot of that excess plate off.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
Well, I went to install the hydraulic throwout bearing, and with it adjusted as short as it will go and pushed all the way in, I'm about 0.102" too far out from what the instructions say I need after taking my measurements.
So, I guess I need to put a spacer on the bell housing to push the throwout bearing back far enough. I'll make it out of 1/8" aluminum, and then adjust the bearing to take up the additional .025" or so.
It would be easier (less holes and cutting) to make the spacer at the transmission side, rather than the motor side. It shouldn't really matter which way though, right? Only being 1/8", everything will still mate up for alignment.
It's always something. haha!
So, I guess I need to put a spacer on the bell housing to push the throwout bearing back far enough. I'll make it out of 1/8" aluminum, and then adjust the bearing to take up the additional .025" or so.
It would be easier (less holes and cutting) to make the spacer at the transmission side, rather than the motor side. It shouldn't really matter which way though, right? Only being 1/8", everything will still mate up for alignment.
It's always something. haha!
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WaterH
Well-known member
I'm not a engine/tranny guy, but arnt these parts designed to go together? The 1/8" spacer shouldn't be hard to make, but I just wonder if something else is wrong. (Like the clutch is not on the motor right)
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
The pressure plate is torqued down on the engine to spec, and it's fully seated on the flywheel. The clutch disk is firmly clamped inbetween the flywheel and pressure plate. It all seems to be installed correctly. Maybe at some point the belhousing was machined down to make it flat again? It doesn't look like it's been machined though.
I'm going to go ahead and make the spacer, but I've contacted the company I purchased the flywheel, clutch, pressure-plate and throwout bearing from (Modern Driveline) I will wait until I hear back from them before I use the spacer. It's possible they sent me the incorrect throwout bearing, I don't know.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
CAD template for the 1/8" aluminum spacer. I don't have an 1/8" aluminum piece wide enough, so I'll pick one up.
My neighbor suggested just using washers, that would probably work I think, but I think I'd like to just take the time to make a spacer. I'd feel better about that.
Aaaand that's all I got done tonight.
My neighbor suggested just using washers, that would probably work I think, but I think I'd like to just take the time to make a spacer. I'd feel better about that.
Aaaand that's all I got done tonight.
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dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
Put just the motor in to check the ride height, and it's sitting to high, even with me standing on the front bumper.
The lower control arm pivot should sit lower than the center of the ball joint, it's probably sitting 2-3" too high right now I t hink. I'm going to see about exchanging the coilovers for shorter ones.
The lower control arm pivot should sit lower than the center of the ball joint, it's probably sitting 2-3" too high right now I t hink. I'm going to see about exchanging the coilovers for shorter ones.
WaterH
Well-known member
Do you know if those springs "settle" some?
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
I'm not sure to be honest. I've emailed TCI to see what they say. They have been really good about getting back to me, their tech support is pretty good. Which is fantastic, because i don't know shit about IFS
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
the spacer is finished, I measured and everything is bang on now.
A few months back I put on a VFD and 3 phase motor on my drill press. That makes doing stupid stuff like this on a drill press much safer I think. I can slow the spindle down to about whatever speed I want to.
A few months back I put on a VFD and 3 phase motor on my drill press. That makes doing stupid stuff like this on a drill press much safer I think. I can slow the spindle down to about whatever speed I want to.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
got the motor and transmission together, and my neighbor helped me put back in the truck. Way easier with two people!
The transmission is resting on top of the crossmember, the previous Turbo350 mount was forward of the crossmember (I've removed the mount because it was irrelevant now), so it looks like i need to cut the crossmember and re-make the middle section to bolt the transmission mount.
The tail of the transmission needs to go down to have the motor sit slightly back a bit. I'm going to see if I can do this work on the crosmember without removing the motor and trans. I'll jack the transmission up to give me room to work.f
The relocated shifter position looks like it will work out nicely.
Rosie says YEAAAA!
The transmission is resting on top of the crossmember, the previous Turbo350 mount was forward of the crossmember (I've removed the mount because it was irrelevant now), so it looks like i need to cut the crossmember and re-make the middle section to bolt the transmission mount.
The tail of the transmission needs to go down to have the motor sit slightly back a bit. I'm going to see if I can do this work on the crosmember without removing the motor and trans. I'll jack the transmission up to give me room to work.f
The relocated shifter position looks like it will work out nicely.
Rosie says YEAAAA!
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WaterH
Well-known member
That dog looks like he is imitating Tim Taylor, grunting like a pig. Ha-ha. Car looks great! (I'm grunting too)
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
Hah, I grunt too
I cut the transmission crossmember so that I can level the motor and mount the transmission in line with the rear axle. As I did so, the back of the intake manifold kisses the firewall. SO, I pulled the motor and trans, and have started working on the firewall for clearance. It doesn't need much... but now is the time to do it.
I took a few photos, but they really don't show what I'm doing very well. But it's worth my time to do the work on the firewall, I don't want any noise from the engine rubbing the body.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
firewall and transmission crossmember progress.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
I welded up the firewall cut that I made (forgot to take a photo), and made the transmission mount bracket (from .250 wall square tube) that will bolt the rubber/metal isolator to the crossmember.
Starting to get busier at work, probably won't be updating quite as often as I have been :rolleyes: But will still try to do something every few days.
Starting to get busier at work, probably won't be updating quite as often as I have been :rolleyes: But will still try to do something every few days.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
Started working on the doors a bit. The previous owner installed electric windows (not my thing, but since they are there, I'll run them). I don't think they were installed very well, the "bump stop" for the window in the lowered position has collapsed and is bending pretty badly on both doors. I made 2 brackets to hold the bump stop more securely, it seems to work pretty good. I'll round the corners, and paint them, even though nobody will ever see them.
And started an aluminum skin to cover the inside of the door. Once it's all fitted up with the nutserts in the door for the screws holding it in, I'll put sound deadening material on the outside skin, and the inside skin. That should help with the headers dumping right there at the doors. I will rinse and repeat on the driver door once the passenger door is finished.
And... I may, or may not have purchased another early 30's project truck.... ugh, I need more space.
And started an aluminum skin to cover the inside of the door. Once it's all fitted up with the nutserts in the door for the screws holding it in, I'll put sound deadening material on the outside skin, and the inside skin. That should help with the headers dumping right there at the doors
. I will rinse and repeat on the driver door once the passenger door is finished.And... I may, or may not have purchased another early 30's project truck.... ugh, I need more space.
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dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
sound deadening material (it sounds a lot less like a drum now!), and starting to put the rivnuts in the door to hold the aluminum on. it'll look like this
WaterH
Well-known member
That interior door stuff is very time consuming, with out much satisfaction when your done.
I really would consider changing the exhaust. My friend has a T bucket and he almost never drives it because of the noise. You only like it for a couple minutes when your driving in to the car show.
Nother project, nother build thread. Yea!
Lurker
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 20, 2020
- Member Number
- 456
- Messages
- 148
Badass project man, thanks for sharing! It makes me want to pick up the 46 chevy project I was offered at work the other day. I work in aircraft, so projects have to wait. I am just hoping he doesnt end up giving me an offer thats too good to pass up.