dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
I'm sure it probably is over built, hopefully I don't get to carried away 
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
33 Chevy
- Thread starter dnsfailure
- Start date
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
So.... in the vein of not "over building" things, would this 45 degree brace on the dash bar (envision it on on both sides) that I have held up here be worth doing? Or just forget it? It doesn't get in the way of my legs or view of the gauges, so there are no down sides other than a bit of extra weight, which I'm honestly not concerned about.
I feel like since I will have not much opportunity to brace the A pillar from the front of the truck (punching through the dash and firewall will be difficult with the A/C system in place, particularly on the passenger side), I'd like to add some bracing where I can. But is this not needed? I feel like I might be going to far. But I don't fucking know, I'm stuck in the "when in doubt, build it stout" ideal.
It's too easy to just start adding tubes, and it'll turn into a rock bouncer by April.
I feel like since I will have not much opportunity to brace the A pillar from the front of the truck (punching through the dash and firewall will be difficult with the A/C system in place, particularly on the passenger side), I'd like to add some bracing where I can. But is this not needed? I feel like I might be going to far. But I don't fucking know, I'm stuck in the "when in doubt, build it stout" ideal.
It's too easy to just start adding tubes, and it'll turn into a rock bouncer by April.
Last edited:
vetteboy79
It's bent. #ttb
No.
At least not that long, with that size tubing.
If you really want that piece there, 1" OD .083 about half the length would be more than fine. But I don't think you lose anything without it.
At least not that long, with that size tubing.
If you really want that piece there, 1" OD .083 about half the length would be more than fine. But I don't think you lose anything without it.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
vetteboy79
It's bent. #ttb
For perspective - the small diagonal braces on my chassis are what Ultra4 requires for welded joints that are formed by a single tube intersection.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
that's some nice tube work 
NO ... JUST NO. just toss one of the these in the side corner of the windshield if you must have a gusset. actually, its your deal, i dont agree with it, good luck.
https://www.kartek.com/parts/90-form-frame-gusset-3-leg-45-thick-1-12-tube-dia-pair.html
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
fastback 
WaterH
Well-known member
Hmmmm, I have to see that with the body on.
on another note, where did you get your turn signal pod? I'm not real happy with the one I got for the HEMTT.
on another note, where did you get your turn signal pod? I'm not real happy with the one I got for the HEMTT.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
seats are pretty much in. just a few tabs left to go
the seats will be re-covered after the truck is done. I'll leave them puke grean for now, in case they get damaged or on fire.
the seats will be re-covered after the truck is done. I'll leave them puke grean for now, in case they get damaged or on fire.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
Picked up a small 8" bead roller (been wanting to try one for a while!) from Eastwood, and gave it a go. Man, I'm extremely pleased with how these turned out. I have zero experience doing this, and I guess this is simple, but I was expecting my first few pieces of metal to be scrap bin, practice weld pieces.
Says it's only rated for 18 gauge steel, but it handled the 16 gauge with no problem.
I need practice and seat time for SURE, but damn it works nice.
The first panel, I did with 2 passes, thinking 16 gauge was too much. 2nd panel I did in 1 pass, and I think it turned out better, less "tacoing", it stayed flatter. Not sure if that's coincidence, or not. You can see the darker panel with the millscale still on it, that was the 2nd panel with 1 pass, and it stayed flat.
The crimp on the end with the holes in it, was not done with the bead roller. I did that earlier with a crimping tool. I think I'll do it with the beadroller from now on though.
Says it's only rated for 18 gauge steel, but it handled the 16 gauge with no problem.
I need practice and seat time for SURE, but damn it works nice.
The first panel, I did with 2 passes, thinking 16 gauge was too much. 2nd panel I did in 1 pass, and I think it turned out better, less "tacoing", it stayed flatter. Not sure if that's coincidence, or not. You can see the darker panel with the millscale still on it, that was the 2nd panel with 1 pass, and it stayed flat.
The crimp on the end with the holes in it, was not done with the bead roller. I did that earlier with a crimping tool. I think I'll do it with the beadroller from now on though.
Last edited:
TTMotorsports
Red Skull Member
I have a similar bead roller. Worked good as is BUT i would suggest welding some box tubing onto the frame to make it stiffer. Mine flexed like crazy and made it a deal bear to line back up the bead roller when going around.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
I didn't experience any problems lining up things. maybe I was luckly.
. But if I find it to be too flexible, I'll add some steel to it, and make it mo stiffer.TTMotorsports
Red Skull Member
TTMotorsports
Red Skull Member
Those aren't my photos but same thing I did to mine. Also I put a steering wheel for the crank not a pipe threader like he has although that will be next upgrade on mine.
WaterH
Well-known member
Nice work. I've had my bead roller for a long time, but I mostly do lap joints.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
no update really :-\ Have done a few real small things on the truck, but I've been busy with work, we finish a few projects this week and next, so hopefully I'll have some time to get back to the truck. Next step is to get the clutch and brake pedal positions finalized, then make the rest of the floor and B pillars.
Fired the motor up again, hah that makes me happy And it shoots flames when you let off the throttle
Fired the motor up again, hah that makes me happy
And it shoots flames when you let off the throttle
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
welded on the headlight mounts, and bolted them up for a look see :)
After playing around with the placement of the lights, I ended up with just about where they used to be.
After playing around with the placement of the lights, I ended up with just about where they used to be.
Nice work. Kick ass little pickup.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
cleared the carport of the jeep, and now have room to start working on the 33 Chevy again. Removed the gas tank, got the seat mounts finished, and ready to start on the floor and B pillars.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
Pedals are in. Managed to get the entire assembly moved forward by 2 inches, compared to where the previous setup was. Had to hack up the pedal arms a bit, and the floor won't be able to be nice and flat at the firewall (the pedals would hit the floor, so I'll have to sink it down a bit), but it's reasonably comfortable. There's no getting away from this truck being cramped without stretching the body or having the pedals protrude through the firewall, so I think I have it about as good as it can be for pedal placement. The seat being lower and slightly farther back also helps.
Will need to cut a bit of the firewall support structure to allow better room for my foot when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. But I get full pedal stroke out of both pedals. Not sure why, but this feels like a huge item to check off my list. (aside from plumbing the lines and making the pedal feet, and shortening the brake pedal plunger rod just a little bit for a slight bit of play). I've been playing with the pedal placement off and on for a while now, this is revision #3 of the pedal arms themself. I started out not wanting to have to cut them, should have just done that from the get go. Feels good to have them in place now, and I'm happy with the placement. :)
Told myself, don't think about the floor design, just get the pedals feeling good, and worry about the floor later. And yes, both reservoirs for the master cylinders will be below the floor, won't have to make the access panel raised up or anything, it will be flush with the floor. And the floor will already be about 2" lower than it was before. Clutch reservoir isn't on there at the moment, just have a plug plugging the hole.
Doesn't look as cramped as it really is in the photo, but everything just barely fits when the pedals are fully depressed.
Bolts at the top of the pedal arms are there just to keep grinding dust from getting into the threads. I'll have to make some pedal feet, I haven't decided what exactly I'll do for them just yet, but will probably spend entirely too much time making them either way
Will need to cut a bit of the firewall support structure to allow better room for my foot when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. But I get full pedal stroke out of both pedals. Not sure why, but this feels like a huge item to check off my list. (aside from plumbing the lines and making the pedal feet, and shortening the brake pedal plunger rod just a little bit for a slight bit of play). I've been playing with the pedal placement off and on for a while now, this is revision #3 of the pedal arms themself. I started out not wanting to have to cut them, should have just done that from the get go. Feels good to have them in place now, and I'm happy with the placement. :)
Told myself, don't think about the floor design, just get the pedals feeling good, and worry about the floor later. And yes, both reservoirs for the master cylinders will be below the floor, won't have to make the access panel raised up or anything, it will be flush with the floor. And the floor will already be about 2" lower than it was before. Clutch reservoir isn't on there at the moment, just have a plug plugging the hole.
Doesn't look as cramped as it really is in the photo, but everything just barely fits when the pedals are fully depressed.
Bolts at the top of the pedal arms are there just to keep grinding dust from getting into the threads. I'll have to make some pedal feet, I haven't decided what exactly I'll do for them just yet, but will probably spend entirely too much time making them either way
Last edited:
WaterH
Well-known member
It is a huge item to check off. It just seems like it shouldn't be. I've found that even simple stuff always has some glitch you have to work out. Good job!
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
I'll grab some photos later, but I decided to go ahead and remove the leaf springs in the rear, and make a triangulated 4 link and coilover suspension. It's all slow going, but I'm still making progress
I also got the B pillars made, and the doors sit nicely against the rear corners of the body. I need to tweak the hinges on the doors slightly, but it's not that bad.
I also got the B pillars made, and the doors sit nicely against the rear corners of the body. I need to tweak the hinges on the doors slightly, but it's not that bad.
Ugh. We need pics.
Flatbed
Web Wheeler
^ this lol 
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
you can see the B pillar sort of in the first photo. The roof is just sitting on top, it's not actually mounted yet, I need to build a "frame" of sorts to bolt it to. The B pillar, on the driver side I rolled the rectangle tube, and then did 2 or 3 pie slices to refine, then welded it up. On the passenger side, I nailed it with the roller, no need to slice and weld. It's a progressive bend, and subtle, so easy to over shoot or not get right. I'm also not proficient at rolling tube
Also here you can see the rear window panel I've welded that up, making it a much taller opening. I did the cut and tack weld on that a while back, but finally finish welded it and bolted it to the cab structure.
I've moved the 33 to the side of the carport so I can get some maintanence done on some other vehicles. all new brakes on my 2000 F250, regular stuff on a friend's toyota, and next up is my TJ, needs engine oil and I haven't opened the diff covers in uh... a while
Also here you can see the rear window panel I've welded that up, making it a much taller opening. I did the cut and tack weld on that a while back, but finally finish welded it and bolted it to the cab structure.
I've moved the 33 to the side of the carport so I can get some maintanence done on some other vehicles. all new brakes on my 2000 F250, regular stuff on a friend's toyota, and next up is my TJ, needs engine oil and I haven't opened the diff covers in uh... a while
Last edited:
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
and here's the test fit on the door latch. Just clamping it in place to make sure things work, leaving a bit of a gap on the door and the B pillar to account for some weather stripping rubber between the two. I won't weld this in until I test fit with the weather stripping.
dnsfailure
WHAT GEAR ARE YOU IN?
and fooling around with the TJ, just to give irate some 4x4 action
My next upgrades on the TJ will be an atlas 4 speed. I want a slower speed transfer case (currently 4.1:1) without compromising street driving. I want to do 80mph on the highway, and super slow on the trails. so I'm looking at the atlast 4 speed 10:1 whatever ratio. I think with a manual transmission, the real low transfer case will work nicely. we'll see.
My next upgrades on the TJ will be an atlas 4 speed. I want a slower speed transfer case (currently 4.1:1) without compromising street driving. I want to do 80mph on the highway, and super slow on the trails. so I'm looking at the atlast 4 speed 10:1 whatever ratio. I think with a manual transmission, the real low transfer case will work nicely. we'll see.
Last edited:
Nice work on the roof and latch!
