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2bbs 2021 bronco build

Got both sides tacked to the frame plates that are tacked to the frame.
Im thinking after I mostly finsh them ill remove, weld out, and have them powder coated.

Now to go stare at by tubing bender burried in my barn and think about how its to heavy to pull out and drag 100 yards through the sand to my garage.

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Time to pour a driveway between your barn and shop. Or build a shop closer to the barn for bonus points. :flipoff2:

Nothing helpful to add besides keep up the cool work.
 
When I bought my 85 Toy, it had ALL the upgrades, Longfields, two xfer cases, lockers (lunchbox), Rancho 44044's and buggy leaf/Chev 63 springs in the back. :lmao:

The only things that stayed throughout my ownership was the Doug Thorley header, the 63's (ditched the buggy leaf), and the dual xfers. Several different shocks, 27sp cro-mo's, then 30's, Spool (hated that thing) in back then a full case Detroit, ARB up front, ram assist, a flatbed, Stauns, on and on.
 
Well Rcv is going to deal with getting me a refund through poly performance and I re-ordered another set of shafts through stage3 motorsports out of az. Should have them in hand by the weekend. Nobody else has them in stock because Stage3 is sitting on 25 pairs, lol.
 
Well Rcv is going to deal with getting me a refund through poly performance and I re-ordered another set of shafts through stage3 motorsports out of az. Should have them in hand by the weekend. Nobody else has them in stock because Stage3 is sitting on 25 pairs, lol.
Will you have a 10 day waiting period until you can pick them up? :flipoff2:
 
And I know your all wondering how im getting such precise mitered cuts on the bend.

Slider propped up at the correct pitch on my 8lb beater and ballenced with a clamp. Then I eyeball the cut with the crack in the cement. 7" cutoff wheel on the dewalt cordless seems to work perfect.
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Well screw you guys :flipoff2:

I was and am mentally prepared for them to be finished for now. If the roundy tube needs replacing in the future then ill add more tubes then.

There is also a posability if I get around to it that it will get a dimple died top plate.

In other news the 2nd set for front RCV shafts are in as well as the front fender fliar deleats.
I used /saw/touched my first rivnut tool and my life feels more complete.

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Well screw you guys :flipoff2:

I was and am mentally prepared for them to be finished for now. If the roundy tube needs replacing in the future then ill add more tubes then.

There is also a posability if I get around to it that it will get a dimple died top plate.

In other news the 2nd set for front RCV shafts are in as well as the front fender fliar deleats.
I used /saw/touched my first rivnut tool and my life feels more complete.

You mean you're not going to have a bucking bronco emblem laser cut into one side and BRONCO in the other? :flipoff2:
 
What did you use for tube?

Edit: Just saw that you used DOM tube. You would have been better off using Sch40 pipe for those. It takes way more abuse than DOM and as a bonus is cheap.
 
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What did you use for tube?

Edit: Just saw that you used DOM tube. You would have been better off using Sch40 pipe for those. It takes way more abuse than DOM and as a bonus is cheap.

120 Dom sucks for sliders, 188 is good, but can be expensive.

Schd 40 is in the middle of 120 and 188. We used to just go straight to schd 80.

He at least has the thick square to take the brunt of the hits right behind the tire.
 
Mistake posting anything with round tubing. It’s either not enough or overbuilt and to heavy. You were also risking it talking about the mig welder. Any of those topics usually derail a thread.
 
120 Dom sucks for sliders, 188 is good, but can be expensive.

Schd 40 is in the middle of 120 and 188. We used to just go straight to schd 80.

He at least has the thick square to take the brunt of the hits right behind the tire.

Really I think the square will be taking 99% as the round is angled up quite a bit. It will be more for keeping rocks away from the door area.

Of course if im completely wrong it will only take another 10-15hrs per side to make new ones :homer:
 
Really I think the square will be taking 99% as the round is angled up quite a bit. It will be more for keeping rocks away from the door area.

Of course if im completely wrong it will only take another 10-15hrs per side to make new ones :homer:
Nah, you'll just tag a decent tree above the sliders right into the door panel instead :flipoff2:
 
Really I think the square will be taking 99% as the round is angled up quite a bit. It will be more for keeping rocks away from the door area.

Of course if im completely wrong it will only take another 10-15hrs per side to make new ones :homer:
My concern (with zero experience) would be the round part folding into the door, but maybe it can't reach it.
 
Mistake posting anything with round tubing. It’s either not enough or overbuilt and to heavy. You were also risking it talking about the mig welder. Any of those topics usually derail a thread.

You're just saying that because you're from the east coast! :flipoff2:
 
Really I think the square will be taking 99% as the round is angled up quite a bit. It will be more for keeping rocks away from the door area.

Of course if im completely wrong it will only take another 10-15hrs per side to make new ones :homer:

I agree, the hard hits alway seem to be right under the pinch weld and 8" behind the tire. If the tube bends, it shouldn't be catastrophic.

I don't think it will take that long just to whip up some new round tube pieces. :flipoff2:
 
I agree, the hard hits alway seem to be right under the pinch weld and 8" behind the tire. If the tube bends, it shouldn't be catastrophic.

I don't think it will take that long just to whip up some new round tube pieces. :flipoff2:
Also I built them to be tight to the pinch welds, with a 1" gap or so under the door when open... since they always bend up to the body anyways + a little.
 
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