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2bbs 2021 bronco build

All I know is they cost way too much to not have some thread insert for strength.


Yabut they've "never had issues" and "holds up to abuse" but it is entirely a service and life issue. Good enough for a race season isn't close to what a street or trail vehicle will need when it is likely to come apart less frequently and be expected to go back together without issue.

Seems like an easy step that is skipped for no reason
 
2big bronco said:
Excitements all gone
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:frown:
 
Provience said:
All I know is they cost way too much to not have some thread insert for strength.


Yabut they've "never had issues" and "holds up to abuse" but it is entirely a service and life issue. Good enough for a race season isn't close to what a street or trail vehicle will need when it is likely to come apart less frequently and be expected to go back together without issue.

Seems like an easy step that is skipped for no reason
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These are still a "trial set"... and I basically agreed to some growing pains along the way.

As long as the company handles all the pains with me im ok with it.... and I have nothing but good stuff to say so far
 
2big bronco said:
These are still a "trial set"... and I basically agreed to some growing pains along the way.

As long as the company handles all the pains with me im ok with it.... and I have nothing but good stuff to say so far
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absolutely, it's an easy thing to address.
 
You're not gonna have a problem unless the lug nuts rust on and the studs become the thread that moves every time you pull tires.

Run it.
 
arse_sidewards said:
You're not gonna have a problem unless the lug nuts rust on and the studs become the thread that moves every time you pull tires.

Run it.
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Aluminum holds like trash, that's why you run the insert, it gives you a larger diameter for the thread into the aluminum for a higher effective strength.

Plus it's easy to replace the spring if/when it corrodes and sticks and is easy to re drill for keenseert and then thick wall keenseert if you need a couple more repairs
 
Provience said:
Aluminum holds like trash, that's why you run the insert, it gives you a larger diameter for the thread into the aluminum for a higher effective strength.
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So wait until the current threads fuck off before inserting to the larger diameter.
Provience said:
Plus it's easy to replace the spring if/when it corrodes and sticks and is easy to re drill for keenseert and then thick wall keenseert if you need a couple more repairs
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But there's no reason to do any of that until it proves to be a problem.
 
arse_sidewards said:
So wait until the current threads fuck off before inserting to the larger diameter.

But there's no reason to do any of that until it proves to be a problem.
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no, just do it when it is manufactured. if you wait, the shit'll fuck off when you don't want it to.

the reason to do it is that it takes ~15 minutes and $15 for a significant gain :flipoff2:
 
WaterH said:
I’m not sure what I’m looking at. Are you saying you installed the studs and they are pulling out of the aluminum?
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Yes, stud spun in easily by hand and then installed it to the flange on the rear axle. They are supposed to torque to 100+lbs and I got the oh shit it just got easy to turn feeling at maybe 40lbs. Had done all 4 on the other side before this one.
 
2big bronco said:
Yes, stud spun in easily by hand and then installed it to the flange on the rear axle. They are supposed to torque to 100+lbs and I got the oh shit it just got easy to turn feeling at maybe 40lbs. Had done all 4 on the other side before this one.
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Could be they just screwed up that one tap Hole. Guess you can see what they say. Insert for sure on that one. I would confirm the 100 lbs. Also.
 
WaterH said:
Could be they just screwed up that one tap Hole. Guess you can see what they say. Insert for sure on that one. I would confirm the 100 lbs. Also.
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Yeah, im not sure how much meat is arount that hole on the inside before I get to important stuff with the internals... going to have to wait for monday.
 
You should have plenty of room for a helicoil. Keensert/timesert not so much.

What size are those studs? How much thread engagement?
 
Sitting on its own weight. Still need to mount the front and rear catch cans, put the skid plates back on, resolve the stripped out portal box on the rear, and install the rear brakes with new lines. (Waiting on a few brackets?

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These are obviously with the racelines, new rim should sit roughly 1-1/2" further in, and are 1" narrower overall.
I had to significantly grind down the upper dual sheer steering mount for clearance and then ordered a pair of 3 and 6mm wheel spacers to see what works to give me a little gap.
 
Did you pull the lift off yet, or is that just bolting them on?

Have you test fit the other wheels or am I miss understanding?

That clearance is nuts for 37s. I'd be curious if my buddies 49s give him that much :laughing:
 
M92PV4U said:
Are the brakes as exposed as they look in the picture?
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Yep and in the back its horrible. My new wheels will help some but im going to have to figure out some sort of rear calliper skid plate.... maybe going from the calliper mounting bolts and wrapping around tight u0 to the housing
 
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