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2010 Chevy Tahoe Soft Brakes

I watched already while my wife was pumping the brakes. I didn’t see anything out of the ordinary. Caliper didn’t look noticeably loose or anything.

I’ve been driving these for 23,000 miles, but it’s been a lot of long distance towing (one 1200 mile trip and quite a few 360 mile trips).

I’ve serviced them once to twice a year.

Now I’m wondering if maybe the slide pins aren’t worn and made it loose?

ABS pump will be done tomorrow. If that doesn’t help I’m going to grab a NEW AC Delco caliper and new pads for that side.

I’m really disappointed with these Power Stop brake parts. They looked and seemed awesome at first, but they’re not that great.
 
Worn pins won't make that noise. When I encounter a rusted pin I knock it out and then drill the hole 1/64 oversized before putting it back and I have never heard that noise despite doing that on about five calipers at this point.
 
Worn pins won't make that noise. When I encounter a rusted pin I knock it out and then drill the hole 1/64 oversized before putting it back and I have never heard that noise despite doing that on about five calipers at this point.

Tell you something else these calipers did. Fully functioning, they wore down the inner pad on the one side of the front to almost nothing, while the other pad was like new.

I have fucking never dealt with these types of issues in all the vehicles I’ve wrenched on.
 
Tell you something else these calipers did. Fully functioning, they wore down the inner pad on the one side of the front to almost nothing, while the other pad was like new.
That's what stuck slide pins do.
 
Not when they’re greased and the caliper is moving back and forth. Which is what these were doing. It made zero sense.

Piston failure could do it.
Piston failure means stuck or leaking. If it wasn’t retracting (stuck) it would wear both pads evenly.
 
Piston failure means stuck or leaking. If it wasn’t retracting (stuck) it would wear both pads evenly.

Who the fuck knows then.

23,000 miles has been since 2019. So barely any miles each year with a full tear down and service once or twice a year.

I’ve never had to pry these calipers off, or re-seat the piston to put it back on.

Makes no sense at all. But I’m about to ditch these calipers as each one screws up. The GM originals last way longer.
 
ABS bleed returned a bit of pedal feel, but not much.

I’m going to start at that rear driver’s caliper and see what is going on. I’m at a total loss on this.
 
Figured it out.

Pulled apart the caliper making noise. The slide pin boot was collapsed and it wasn’t pushing out.

Maybe I’m misunderstanding how these work, but do I need to pack more brake parts lube in there, or is the boot the issue?

I tried replacing those once and fucked them all up. No one just sells a loaded bracket, so I’ll try to install a new boot again.
 
Don’t get all fancy and try to use a socket or anything to seat the new boot. That will just tear it off the insert. Give it a love tap with a smooth faced hammer to get it started, then hit it with your purse to send it home.

I have like a 95% success rate with that technique. It’s rubber, it will take it just fine. It just needs to be a smooth faced bashing implement, and you need to hit it square.

And try not to melt if you’re working on that thing this weekend:flipoff2:

I ordered like 16 of them for the rear calipers off Rock Auto for cheap, fully expecting to tear up some boots.

I’ll ask the wife if I can borrow her purse for this job. :flipoff2:

Not working on it this weekend. Sunday is going to be 92! :eek:
 
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