Slander
Team no stickys
Difference is mine has a charged battery in it and drives
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FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Difference is mine has a charged battery in it and drives
Isn’t your winch on a relay? That lowers the amperage. If I’m not mistaken.
You could put in a fuseblock. That’s usually how I do all of my wiring.
Slander
Team no stickys
Tuesday question: the dust shield came loose on my pinion flange, can I unbolt my flange remove it and bolt it back on without having to do any gear setup?
Btw fuck you marlin for putting a press fit dust shield on a pinion flange.
Btw fuck you marlin for putting a press fit dust shield on a pinion flange.
rockota
white collar hillbilly
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IIRC all toyota 3rds are press fit dust shields... why upset at Marlin?
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pry it back into place and stick a tack on it?
Slander
Team no stickys
Because its a marlin flange, and the POS comes un pressed and spins on the pinion making a god awful noise. I have rtv'd it, welded it and now I am going to remove it.
Slander
Team no stickys
Did that, it worked for 3 trips and broke back off.
rockota
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Slander
Team no stickys
you may want to rethink building shit...
Neat, let's see you weld a piece of tin back on and get it to stick while being dragged over rocks
Slander
Team no stickys
So anyway I assume unbolt the pinion nut and re torque to spec? Anything I need to check?
You should be able to unbolt the nut without affecting preload as long as you have a solid spacer, if you have a crush sleeve your probably gonna need to check backlash again
Pinion bearing preload. Not Back lash
Mark the nut with a sharpie and count the threads sticking out. Put it back on the same and then give it a touch more just to be on the safe side.
what he said, haven't had my morning coffee yet
Slander
Team no stickys
YotaAtieToo carrying this over from my DE ram thread in g4x4 the issue with this junk pile and getting a ram on it is:
1) when I built the truck I marked where the centerline for the front axle was on the fender where it was IFS before cutting it all off. 5months later when I was swapping in the axle, I inadvertantly lined the front axle up with that mark. Which led to
2) this truck is low as fuck and with the axle being so close to the oil pan, I have zero room to fit a ram on top of the axle see below pics. The other issue using a forward swing Ford box, so if I wanted to move the axle forward, I would be redoing basically everything, and I'm lazy and hate fabrication.
3) I narrowed the frame about an inch when I built the new one, which means the springs are closer together. If you remember the above point, I would have to run the ram on the axle. If I run the ram on the axle, even with it half under the drivers or pax leaf spring, it's attached to the tie rod damn near in the middle of it and hanging way the hell below it to clear the leaf and the frame rails on flex.
4) if I moved the tie rod down under the springs, I can gain uptravel, and my thoughts with a DE setup was I can knock out two birds with one stone and just run a typical DE type truss and skid setup. I also don't like having a low slung tie rod because I don't want to bend it wheeling trails this truck shouldn't even be on in the first place like I typically do.
So that's the shit sandwich I created. The nice part is it works great on the trail and it drives awesome on the street, having like 2" of uptravel sucks though. I could raise the height as I'm running some flat leafs, but the stance does come in handy.
1) when I built the truck I marked where the centerline for the front axle was on the fender where it was IFS before cutting it all off. 5months later when I was swapping in the axle, I inadvertantly lined the front axle up with that mark. Which led to
2) this truck is low as fuck and with the axle being so close to the oil pan, I have zero room to fit a ram on top of the axle see below pics. The other issue using a forward swing Ford box, so if I wanted to move the axle forward, I would be redoing basically everything, and I'm lazy and hate fabrication.
3) I narrowed the frame about an inch when I built the new one, which means the springs are closer together. If you remember the above point, I would have to run the ram on the axle. If I run the ram on the axle, even with it half under the drivers or pax leaf spring, it's attached to the tie rod damn near in the middle of it and hanging way the hell below it to clear the leaf and the frame rails on flex.
4) if I moved the tie rod down under the springs, I can gain uptravel, and my thoughts with a DE setup was I can knock out two birds with one stone and just run a typical DE type truss and skid setup. I also don't like having a low slung tie rod because I don't want to bend it wheeling trails this truck shouldn't even be on in the first place like I typically do.
So that's the shit sandwich I created. The nice part is it works great on the trail and it drives awesome on the street, having like 2" of uptravel sucks though. I could raise the height as I'm running some flat leafs, but the stance does come in handy.
Slander
Team no stickys
I have to notch that, the driver's side it's the pitman arm and the steering box, straight up is the oil pan.
rockota
white collar hillbilly
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I get what you're saying.
I'm thinking under the radiator - I believe you have the shorter one installed?
That may be your only option?
EDIT: or maybe pumpkin to tie-rod... but under the tie rod?
Mine's on the axle housing, but I don't have any fancy high-steer stuff.
Slander
Team no stickys
Ok I re read what your saying, your saying ram.on the frame rail to the drag link? And yea I got the shorty radiator installed. Pumpkin to under tie rod is where the good place to land, but is dead center in the middle of the tie rod.I get what you're saying.
I'm thinking under the radiator - I believe you have the shorter one installed?
That may be your only option?
EDIT: or maybe pumpkin to tie-rod... but under the tie rod?
Mine's on the axle housing, but I don't have any fancy high-steer stuff.
I have laid under the is thing for probably 5hrs cumulatively holding the ram looking for a place to put it, then I start eyeing up the sawzall and go back inside LOL
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Slander
Team no stickys
Hmmmmmmmm on that drag link ram location
rockota
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what throw ram did you get? 6" or 8"?
Looking at mine for scale comparison, I think it could work....
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Slander
Team no stickys
I'll have to measure it, but it's a 6" throw "shorty" PSC ram.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Make sense wanting to move the tie rod down for sure.
What's your plan for arms?
What's your plan for arms?
Slander
Team no stickys
Haven't got that far yet LOL
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I've wondered about using fror flat arms top and bottom for a double shear set up
Although a pair of stock arms on the bottom with a similar setup to artec D60 arms would probably work better.
rockota
white collar hillbilly
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I've wondered about using fror flat arms top and bottom for a double shear set up
Although a pair of stock arms on the bottom with a similar setup to artec D60 arms would probably work better.
I don't think he needs to move it...
But... if so... Aqualu FJ40 Passenger Cross-over Steering arm and factory driver's side arm... Mount ram slightly above @ axle centerline...
Slander
Team no stickys
That's kind of what I was thinking.I've wondered about using fror flat arms top and bottom for a double shear set up
Although a pair of stock arms on the bottom with a similar setup to artec D60 arms would probably work better.
rockota I almost built one of those types of arms when I originally did the SAS and then found a used marlin fj62 histeer kit and ran it instead.
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YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Personally, I don't like the Ram mounted to the draglink.
I also see how he is trying to gain clearance from the oil pan. So may as well go low tiered.
That arm set up would work. I like the idea of double shear with all the force that ram will have.
I really like overkill steering. I've helped buddies with sheared studs and it's the worst. If it were mine, I'd get fror flat arms for the keyway on top, and either stock or Fab off the current arms for the bottom.
rockota
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Switched from AllPro high steer to low steer on my (never should have sold) 86 xtracab. Aqualu arm is a solid unit.
I did it originally to try an increase steering speed… didn’t work. Oh well.
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rockota
white collar hillbilly
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I don’t necessarily disagree with you at all. I like the added safety of the ram on tie rod
Then again, it’s worked for a number of high end builds… and if all he’s trying to accomplish is reducing load on the steering box, it should work fine. Plus, packaging might be easier.