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2000 Ford F-550 Build

Thanks. Weird it isn’t working. I’ll recheck the connections
Disconnect the other end, put a meter set to AC volts across them and see what it reads when spinning (should be under 5V).
Should also be able to ohm it out to make sure everything is connected and it doesnt have a broken wire inside.

Aaron Z
 
So the truck did it’s first job this past weekend since the 4wd swap.

Hauled a bunch of crap back and forth to my wedding.
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Having the 16x8 foot bed is so useful for stuff like this.

I had one potential issue but I fixed it. The fuel pressure gauge would randomly read 0 psi, then 10-20 then 60 then bounce back to 0. It ran perfectly fine and even at 0 psi it ran. I figured it was a sensor issue. I unplugged it. Replugged it back in and It help 65-68 psi the rest of the job.

My next trip is the 22nd of July. Going to the rubicon…so I gotta get the rest of this thing fixed up. I need to weld in the coil bucket support brackets on the frame. Mount the 4 rear tires. Fix the speedo and I think that’s it. Just a nut and bolt check.

I also got a round of goodies in. They aren’t necessary mods but I had a gift card running out at riffraff so I figured it’s a good supporting mod.

Smith brothers .083 chromoly push rods

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Comp cam valve springs

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Comp cam .30 shims.

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And some new boots
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I’m in no rush for an install but I think it’s probably just a good safety thing to do.
 
Where's the ibb invite thread? :flipoff2:

Are you taking this to trail hero by chance?
I’m not sure, I’ve been wanting to attend for years and I have been to sand hollow 2 times to wheel but never during trail hero. Are you going?
 
I’m not sure, I’ve been wanting to attend for years and I have been to sand hollow 2 times to wheel but never during trail hero. Are you going?

We have a condo thing reserved already. So unless something really happens, we're going. I don't have a real crawler, so I'm not sure what we'll be doing besides watching trail breaker. We did actually honeymoon through cedar city, so we may do some sight seeing also. I've never been to sand hollow, but it looks like the most fun ever.
 
It’s a blast. Unfortunately my time there has been short on the 2 trips. One was UA so just one trail day and the other was a day and a half. I wanted to get down there for a dedicated trip.

I would love to watch trail breaker. I geek out over technical rear steer stuff.

I’ll have to talk to some buddy’s and see if we can plan something.
 
Ok, I’m am just about wrapped up with the 4wd swap. It’s driving and it’s going well. The only things left are a front driveshaft, the reinforcements behind the engine Crossmember and my speedometer.

I can’t get the speedo to work and that’s the most important thing I gotta get going right now.

I cut my old pigtail off. Crimped on the 05+ pigtail and nothing. I changed the sensor, nothing. I Ohm’d it out to make sure I had a solid connection and I do….they aren’t positive/negative specific but figure what the hell, let me swap the 2 wires. NOTHING!

Any suggestions? Is there a fuse that went or something?
 
What did you have to change with the speedo connection? When I swapped out to a s130 diff I just took the old sensor out of the old diff and plugged it into the new diff.

Iirc you had the s135 not the s110, so maybe the sensor shape is different or something. But I didn't have to do anything extra. Just worked, and accurate too, despite the gear ratio change.


Tangent, did you ever get the frame reinforcement plates in?
 
What did you have to change with the speedo connection? When I swapped out to a s130 diff I just took the old sensor out of the old diff and plugged it into the new diff.

Iirc you had the s135 not the s110, so maybe the sensor shape is different or something. But I didn't have to do anything extra. Just worked, and accurate too, despite the gear ratio change.


Tangent, did you ever get the frame reinforcement plates in?
I haven’t put the reinforcements in yet. I was actually just mocking them up. I really don’t want to weld em in. It’s tight in there, it’s gonna be messy and shitty….but I’m a candidate for punishment and shitty jobs so it will get done. Maybe not today though lol

The S135 had a 99-03 pigtail. The S130 I picked up (I confirmed it’s an S130) has a different sensor. I cut the pigtail off and crimped on the new one and nothing. from what I have found online it appears guys have done this without issue on F250/350s with axle swaps.

I have no codes stored, fresh sensor, confirmed it’s got a good connection. I’m at a loss
 
Hmm. Not sure. Maybe polarity is important and the two wires are switched?

With your extended wheelbase, maybe the harness extension they put in has gone bad?
 
I switched the 2 wires to cover the polarity. The speedo did work before I pulled the axle. I’ll check continuity further down the hardness
 
Yeah, either that or maybe you have a bad sensor in the new axle. Like you said, it's a pretty simple circuit, not much to go wrong.
 
Yep…immediately cut off the old pigtail when I swapped in the axle. Wire up the new one. Checking wires, changing sensors, spending money. Wasting time.

Put old sensor and pigtail in and it’s fixed :homer:
 
Leaving for my first trip since the 4wd swap on Thursday evening!

kind of nervous since I had so many changes….with just local miles as testing.

Here is the pic of the driver side coil bucket reinforcement. The passenger side was welded on like it came off the 05+ frame.

I know someone mentioned interest in how I would do it for the driver side since things were in the way. I took the path of least resistance and notched a hole in for the lines to pass through. The driver and pass side are different from each other so I figured there wasn’t as much science behind the reinforcement as I thought. The driver side has more contact patch on the Crossmember then the pass side. So my argument was the driver side would be ok with a little less contact patch with the top of the frame.


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It seemed no matter how much I cleaned the surface there is just oil and grease baked into the crossmember so welding that sucked.


Now I gotta figure out if I wanna keep the S135 3rd member and shafts if I ever need them for a stronger housing or just scrap it all and get some money for it.

thoughts?

this axle should be problem free….it’s got a bigger weight rating by 1,706 lbs even though the fluid capacity is almost half of the S135 and the ring gear is 2in smaller. I usually end up being a hoarder and I’m trying not to be lol
 
Leaving for my first trip since the 4wd swap on Thursday evening!

kind of nervous since I had so many changes….with just local miles as testing.

Here is the pic of the driver side coil bucket reinforcement. The passenger side was welded on like it came off the 05+ frame.

I know someone mentioned interest in how I would do it for the driver side since things were in the way. I took the path of least resistance and notched a hole in for the lines to pass through. The driver and pass side are different from each other so I figured there wasn’t as much science behind the reinforcement as I thought. The driver side has more contact patch on the Crossmember then the pass side. So my argument was the driver side would be ok with a little less contact patch with the top of the frame.



It seemed no matter how much I cleaned the surface there is just oil and grease baked into the crossmember so welding that sucked.


Now I gotta figure out if I wanna keep the S135 3rd member and shafts if I ever need them for a stronger housing or just scrap it all and get some money for it.

thoughts?

this axle should be problem free….it’s got a bigger weight rating by 1,706 lbs even though the fluid capacity is almost half of the S135 and the ring gear is 2in smaller. I usually end up being a hoarder and I’m trying not to be lol

Nice work. I'm sure welding in that cavity sucked.

Scrap the old diff, then wait 6 months, and Grendel will message you saying "I coulda used that" like he did with me, lol.
 
It did suck! Couldn’t get a grinder into every spot. So then I used a brush in those spots. That side had more room too. Other side had exhaust in the way along with the starter (did remove that)

Overall it sucked. Lol
 
wow what a good thread. thanks for info for sure.

silly question, i may have missed it but how did the bus go, still got it, and build threads on it, i have rv with v10 2004 model and love to hear what you did to it.

thanks
 
wow what a good thread. thanks for info for sure.

silly question, i may have missed it but how did the bus go, still got it, and build threads on it, i have rv with v10 2004 model and love to hear what you did to it.

thanks
I still have it and can do a thread on it. It’s more my wife’s and I just do the work to it.

V10 with 4.10s and tiny 225/75R16s. I’d love to try towing with it one day.
 
Ok, so here’s a recap! First off I will share my cat scale ticket.
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Yes, I’m over the 19,500 GVWR….I didn’t kill a school bus full of nuns, or anyone for that matter.

Technically, I’m under GAWR for both front and rear. Rear is 14,706 and front is 7k. So I had about 800 lbs under GAWR. I’m under the max weight for the tires and wheel capacities and from what I have found the GCWR had a 30,000 lb option back in the day for high towing capacity package, which fit the criteria of my truck. So I am under 30k.

I do find it interesting that when ford came out with the F600 they reinforced the frame right behind the cab. With the frame stretch I have 2 giant C channel frames sandwiched together during an overlap. So while there may be other concern spots I know that this isn’t one of them. Lastly, this is with 80 gallons on board and the load did get lighter as we went along.

Chassis and suspension: it flat out didn’t care. The suspension didn’t handle funny, it didn’t have a ton of sway, etc. I feel confident in the chassis at this weight level all day long.

That’s probably where the “it didn’t care” ends.

Engine seemed to have more then enough power to accelerate but EGTs became an issue. First I had another tune on and it was smoky as hell. I went to a medium tow tune and it cleaned it up nicely. EGTs we’re better but still an issue. My turbo setup isn’t a bolt on ordeal and is known to be the best at EGT control and at 20k lbs gross it is never a concern but at 29k I had to watch it.

Transmission: temp wise, it never got hot and handled the load just fine. Gear option wise it’s severely lacking. At 20k lbs I can live with a 4 speed 95% of the time. At 29k it really needs more gear options and the reason being is EGT control. In certain situations I’m pulling a grade and will get up to 3100 rpm, it’s time to shift, and it drops 1k rpm. At 2100 rpm it’s not moving enough air going up hill at that load and EGTs become an issue. So you let it sit at redline and pull the grade at that speed. With a 10 speed it will drop from 3100 rpm to 2750 rpm and I think the 6 speed would be like 2500 rpm vs 2100 rpm. It’s much easier to continue to accelerate at that rpm while keeping EGTs in check.

All this was done at 4K-7400 feet in elevation and in 85-105 degree heat with the AC on full blast for hours on end.

When I did 28k it was 45 degrees out and 1200 elevation and it pulled grades like a champ.

Braking: it did stop the loads and I had to get used to it as I got them hot 2 times but once I got control of downshifting it was much better. It could use an exhaust brake for a much more confidence inspiring braking experience but I also wasn’t fearing my life there.

I will not be doing the aux trans. I think it’s just a bandaid and adds too much weight. I think the real answer is a 6 or 10 speed. It probably isn’t feasible but figured I’d mention it. My main complaint was gear options. I did email US Shift and they are working on the 10R140 stand-alone harness but it’s about a year out.

My buddy asked me if 29k isn’t efficient for these 2 rigs, as in, is it lighter with a F350 dually and gooseneck and I don’t think it is.

2022 Ford F-350 dually 4x4 is 8,133 according to fords site.
JK and H3 combined is 13,500
Big Tex gooseneck to handle that weight is 6,200

Your at 27,833 before people and road trip crap. That 29k includes that I have 80 gallons on board during that weigh in. So I don’t think it’s inefficient in terms of weight.

So as a whole would I do it again? Yes, I would. The truck handled the load fine in most situations. I went as fast as 73 mph and as slow as 34-38 mph up some of the grades at 7k feet when it’s near 90 with terrible air quality due to fires (not sure if that changes air density)

I had one situation I will never ever do again. I pulled off to a passing shoulder and had to start moving at a stop going up hill right near the summit. I had to keep it in first at like 25-28 mph until I hit the summit. If I didn’t stop and just wait for the passing lanes I probably would have never gotten into 1st gear and maintained 2nd at 35 mph or so.

I saw a 2004-2005 duramax with its hood up on the side of a grade…so I’m glad I didn’t overheat lol I saw many ram 3500-4500s pulling 3-4 cars and I always wondered what they pull like with probably 30-35k gross. They were on flat sections at 4K feet but I would love to see how they would do going up the Sierra grades at 7k + feet.

Rear axle was hit with an infrared temp gun and never saw over 175 at the pinion.

Lastly, here are two slips, the truck when I got it and the weight with the t case, 4x4 swap, new rear axle, aux tank with fuel, winch, some spare parts and heavy ass ramps in the bed and 3 tires I needed to bring to the dump. I’m assuming a good chunk of the weight gain is unsprung weight and not weight that the frame and suspension have to hold up.

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My buddy asked me if 29k isn’t efficient for these 2 rigs, as in, is it lighter with a F350 dually and gooseneck and I don’t think it is.

2022 Ford F-350 dually 4x4 is 8,133 according to fords site.
JK and H3 combined is 13,500
Big Tex gooseneck to handle that weight is 6,200

Your at 27,833 before people and road trip crap. That 29k includes that I have 80 gallons on board during that weigh in. So I don’t think it’s inefficient in terms of weight.

8k for a tow rig sounds about right, depending how its outfitted.

Dedicated car hauler GN can be build pretty light. Tube frames, open centers, etc. Would easily handle 13.5k. Then that might squeak you under 26k. Would be longer, but arguably more maneuverable.
 
You realize that aux trans is meant to be shifted on the fly right? I'd think that it would help tremendously if the ratios split your current trans ratios.

The other option may be gearing up. To split your current gears. You may be able to hold the same gear in a grade, but gain some mph.

I will say, that you're story doesn't sound too far off my 2019 F550 6.7 work truck. I'm a fair bit heavier, but occasionally am around 28k gross and can't just fly up grades at 70 mph either. The lesser splits help some, I always hated the yuge 4 speed splits.

The 10 speed sounds cool and all, but there's no way I'd want to be Guinea pig on a tow vehicle. You should probably be looking at a Zf6 swap.
 
You realize that aux trans is meant to be shifted on the fly right? I'd think that it would help tremendously if the ratios split your current trans ratios.

The other option may be gearing up. To split your current gears. You may be able to hold the same gear in a grade, but gain some mph.

I will say, that you're story doesn't sound too far off my 2019 F550 6.7 work truck. I'm a fair bit heavier, but occasionally am around 28k gross and can't just fly up grades at 70 mph either. The lesser splits help some, I always hated the yuge 4 speed splits.

The 10 speed sounds cool and all, but there's no way I'd want to be Guinea pig on a tow vehicle. You should probably be looking at a Zf6 swap.
Thanks for the response. Maybe I think new 6.7s (ram or ford) are magical and can do anything and I am wrong. I get they are better, they make more power, have more gears, better EGT control designs and are quieter but when I’m in the situations explained I’m imagining a 6.7 being in the same situation flying by me at triple my speed. Maybe that isn’t the case. They are better but not at the percentage I am thinking they are so I do appreciate the input. I really have nothing to base my experience off of. I have never driven another diesel towing heavy weight.

You do bring up a good point on the aux trans. They can be shifted on the fly. Since they I have an auto I need to float gears which would take some practice. My initial reasoning for throwing it out the window was weight. I’d be hanging another 400 lbs (would have to find the actual weight, but it’s heavy) on this truck. A 6 speed or 10 speed wouldn’t have the weight gain an aux trans would have. It wouldn’t require any special knowledge on shifting. Just put your foot down and go but that is at the expense of cost and reliability.

I guess it’s like an old semi driver who had the art of knowing the truck inside and out vs. today….just gas and go with an auto.
 
You realize that aux trans is meant to be shifted on the fly right? I'd think that it would help tremendously if the ratios split your current trans ratios.

The other option may be gearing up. To split your current gears. You may be able to hold the same gear in a grade, but gain some mph.

I will say, that you're story doesn't sound too far off my 2019 F550 6.7 work truck. I'm a fair bit heavier, but occasionally am around 28k gross and can't just fly up grades at 70 mph either. The lesser splits help some, I always hated the yuge 4 speed splits.

The 10 speed sounds cool and all, but there's no way I'd want to be Guinea pig on a tow vehicle. You should probably be looking at a Zf6 swap.
When I ordered my '99.5 F-350 I specifically ordered it with that 6sp manual.

On a trip Northbound on I15 passing Bartow and towing 10,000+lbs; I shifted out of OD, anticipating all the hill-climbing, and reset cruise-control to *63MPH.
The rig never blinked.:smokin:


*The reason 63MPH is based on, at 55MPH/1,700RPMs in OD the PS is at peak torque ; so I wanted to make sure the engine was making the most torque.:grinpimp:
 
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