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2000 Ford F-550 Build

So everyone says, just drill out the bolt holes for the steering box and an 05+ box goes in....

Well I guess that’s true for the smaller box but the F550 box doesn’t bolt in :mad3:

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You can see the bottom bolt holes are the same (which I confirmed when mounting the box) but the top hole is offset more. I found the reason why....the box is much bigger and it’s for clearance.

Fun stuff....doing the frame splice option from get go is starting to look better and better but it’s too late now. All that shit is cut off the donor frame.

I’m sure the Ford forum people are like omg what do you do now?!? Well this is irate. You guys know the solution (or tell me a better one.) My thought is to get 3/4in solid rod and sleeve the existing hole. Weld it shut, mark the new hole, drill a 7/8in or 1in hole. Use 3/4in ID tubing to sleeve the frame, weld that in. Bolt on the box.

I found this out after work last night. I finished drilling out the 3/4in holes and the box wouldn’t line up and that’s when I put them side by side. Measured the holes on the donor frame and the existing frame and found the issue.

To finish off the night I started drilling the 5 holes for the track bar bracket until I got tired of having hot metal shavings burn the fuck out of me.
 
What's the bolt diameter? If it's ~5/8 just use 1/2" pipe as your sleeve.
 
I’m sure the Ford forum people are like omg what do you do now?!? Well this is irate. You guys know the solution (or tell me a better one.) My thought is to get 3/4in solid rod and sleeve the existing hole. Weld it shut, mark the new hole, drill a 7/8in or 1in hole. Use 3/4in ID tubing to sleeve the frame, weld that in. Bolt on the box.
That doesn't sound too bad and is what I would do. Why solid rod to fill the old hole though? Does it overlap where the new hole needs to be? I would probably cut out some plugs that match the thickness of the frame to fill the old holes, weld, then grind smooth.
 
I’ll have to confirm what the actual size is. I believe it’s a metric 3/4in. I had to drill out the existing holes to 3/4in.
 
So what you're saying is it might be easier to just swap in a whole front frame clip from an 05+ truck? :flipoff2:

Watching intently.
 
I’ll have to confirm what the actual size is. I believe it’s a metric 3/4in. I had to drill out the existing holes to 3/4in.
prolly 18mm bolts
I would not weld up the old holes if they're out of the way, more welds more places for cracks to start

use some .250 wall or better DOM, gas pipe like suggested will just crush, iirc those bolts torque to something over 300 ft/lb
 
a car reamer / bridge reamer works fast and esy to open up holes like that.

for new holes you can center punch and no thicker than 1/4" a rotobroch works great.


if sticking with drill bits get m42 or cobalt. most people are even surprised how well a new hole saw can work.

using a handrill, dont go fast, put it in low speed and hold constant firm pressure. on any bit it either cutting or getting dull, if your not pulling chips you need more pressure.



then of course a mag dril, i loan out my mag drill all the time to drill frames.
 
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So what you're saying is it might be easier to just swap in a whole front frame clip from an 05+ truck? :flipoff2:

Watching intently.
One person on a ford truck forum said that was easier. A lot more people said FUCK NO! It’s easier to not swap the front frame section.

I think you said swap the front frame section on here as well. Just a lot more people said the opposite. I sheepishly followed the masses.

I can’t say it’s easier or not easier since I didn’t end up dealing with pulling the radiator. I attaching Fuel lines, brake lines, body mounts, etc. I guess I can say if I was to do it again I’d look more into swapping frame rail sections lol
 
I agree tracyb at how well hole saws work. Especially when getting up into 3/4in plus. I may hole saw the new hole and do 1in or 1.25 in for a thicker sleeve.
 
I agree tracyb at how well hole saws work. Especially when getting up into 3/4in plus. I may hole saw the new hole and do 1in or 1.25 in for a thicker sleeve.
one thing i've started doing for all my hole saw arbors is replacing the pilot bit with 1/4" hex wrench.

i always pilot drill with out the hole saw anyway. and the hex wrench doesn't flex like most pilot bits do. so you get a better hole, and because less wobble means less material to move... faster cuts and more cuts per bit.


can also put on lathe and turn the end down to 3/16" to hold position even better and save a little time on drilling the pilot hole. when drilling 1/4" i always start with 1/8" pilot, but for 3/16 i go straight to that size.


allot of people have never heard of or used car/bridge reamers. if you haven't they are worth looking into. i use them all the time extremely handy to have.
 
I noticed the steering input is bigger on the 05+ box. Do I need a new steering shaft? I thought most 05+ swaps don’t need a new steering shaft.
You need the lower sector shaft. It should fit your upper.

I have one here, if you can't get one.

What you're doing now is still easier than swapping frame sections, IMHO.

I also think an 05 + F350 steering box lines up, uses smaller bolts, for sure... and in the same place.
 
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I do need one! Everything that’s bolt in hasn’t been bolt in :laughing: but it is what it is
 
Grendel do you have pics of that steering shaft?

Got some more work done tonight. Finished drilling out the holes for the track bar, got that mounted, drilled out the steering box hole. Just need some tube to sleeve it now. It’s so close to the old hole I wonder if I need to sleeve it but I probably should to be safe.
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I swear no matter if I measure 7 times I never get this lucky on things lining up.

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That lower shaft should fit your upper shaft and tie into the new to you, steering box.
 
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Yep that’s what I need. How much do you want for it or do you have a part # so I can buy one
 
Yep that’s what I need. How much do you want for it or do you have a part # so I can buy one

You can find them much cheaper. Perhaps if you make the local Ford dealer price match, you can have it today.
 
The pics show a bolt on the top in the picture but your pic doesn’t. Any reason why? Does a 2000 upper shaft fit the lower shaft from a 2008?
 
The pics show a bolt on the top in the picture but your pic doesn’t. Any reason why? Does a 2000 upper shaft fit the lower shaft from a 2008?
There's no top shaft in my pic. The bolt should be on the top shaft.

Yes, a 2000 upper should fit the lower that fits the box.
 
Got some shocks ordered (bilsteins) and the steering shaft on order.


Got the radius arm mounts on this weekend. I know, stupidly slow progress. (Wife’s family is in town)

All that’s left is welding on sway bar mount brackets, steering box sleeve, and putting the axle under for good.

Another thing I need to find out is if the hydro boost line from the box to the hydro boost has the same fitting on the 05+ hydro boost. I have the factory 05+ line that he gave me.
 
Got some shocks ordered (bilsteins) and the steering shaft on order.


Got the radius arm mounts on this weekend. I know, stupidly slow progress. (Wife’s family is in town)

All that’s left is welding on sway bar mount brackets, steering box sleeve, and putting the axle under for good.

Another thing I need to find out is if the hydro boost line from the box to the hydro boost has the same fitting on the 05+ hydro boost. I have the factory 05+ line that he gave me.
Use the 05+ line. It fits.

Why do you have to weld on sway bar mount brackets?
 
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Use the 05+ line. It fits.

Why do you have to weld on sway bar mount brackets?
The sway bar setup I had was behind the rear axle, not in front like the 05+. Maybe it was an F550 thing? I saw other 05+ installs and their sway bar bolted in.

Lastly, with these giant front brakes will I want to look into a different brake booster setup?
 
The sway bar setup I had was behind the rear axle, not in front like the 05+. Maybe it was an F550 thing? I saw other 05+ installs and their sway bar bolted in.

Lastly, with these giant front brakes will I want to look into a different brake booster setup?
Drill the new sway bar brackets in front. There's 1 of 2 factory holes to do it. They're also really common at the parts stores.

Your brake booster, if in good shape, should drive it well.
 
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Drill the new sway bar brackets in front. There's 1 of 2 factory holes to do it.

Your brake booster, if in good shape, should drive it well.
Hmmmm...I’ll have to look into that. The brackets on the donor frame were inboard of the frame a few inches. I know there isn’t an inboard bracket on my frame but maybe I can move the mounting spot a few inches to under the frame
 
Family left this morning and wife leaves for a girls trip tonight. I’ll finally get some work done.

Last night I got into the garage for a little bit. Welded on the sway bar brackets, started torquing down the radius arm bracket bolts....
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I noticed that when I drilled out this hole I knicked the fuel line in right before the frame mounted fuel pump. I couldn’t find a replacement. Any one got info on this line?
 
Nylon fuel line -> brass barb and a thing of boiling water to heat up the line and make it slip fit.

Steel fuel line -> compression fitting
 
Got the truck on the ground tonight! I did realize I should change the track bar balljoint for good measure.

what do the coil spring guys use for trackbar ball joints? I’m open to spending more to hopefully never touch it for 100k+ miles.
 
Family left this morning and wife leaves for a girls trip tonight. I’ll finally get some work done.

Last night I got into the garage for a little bit. Welded on the sway bar brackets, started torquing down the radius arm bracket bolts....
AEC02C75-8E4A-46D9-AF5B-595EEE96EDA9.jpeg


I noticed that when I drilled out this hole I knicked the fuel line in right before the frame mounted fuel pump. I couldn’t find a replacement. Any one got info on this line?
IS that the inlet to the filter or the outlet?

At one time the setup was to get rid of all the QD connections and use diesel rated fuel hose and two hose clamps, one over the rib and one behind it.
 
IS that the inlet to the filter or the outlet?

At one time the setup was to get rid of all the QD connections and use diesel rated fuel hose and two hose clamps, one over the rib and one behind it.
Inlet to the frame mounted pump
 
Inlet to the frame mounted pump
That was a specific location that was problematic. High vacuum signal with aging quick disconnect oring.
Commonly reffered to as the "pre-pump" mods and combined with the "hutch" mods.
basically just cut the old hose off the metal tube and reinstall diesel rated fuel hose and double fuel injection clamps at each connection.

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Got her on the ground! Are these coils clapped out? Bumpstops are basically engaged at ride height
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