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1996 F250 Shop Truck

ChrisRWG

Build & Film
Joined
Feb 6, 2021
Member Number
3447
Messages
121
Loc
Albuquerque, NM
This is a project I have been working on for about the past year and I think it's time I start a thread for it. It has been on the farthest back burner possible, so that is why I have not shared it much.

A family member of mine had a 1996 F-250 single cab long bed that had been parked for several years. They were the original owner and the truck resided where I grew up in Washington state for its entire life. I have always wanted an OBS truck but refused to pay the premium they are demanding now. My family member reached out to me and told me if I wanted it, I could have it for free. I was able to arrange a vehicle trailer to scoop the truck up from Washinton and take it to me here in Texas. I believe I paid around $1500 for the transport fees, which was still cheaper than any OBS truck on the marketplace.

I had not seen this truck in over 15 years and I knew very little about the condition of it. I was told it was parked because it had a complete lack of power and had major exhaust leaks from the cast manifolds. Otherwise, it was known to be a 4x4, HD long bed with a 460.

Here is what the truck looked like when it was extracted from its 3-year parking spot:

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I received the truck about 4 days later and the condition was slightly worse than I was anticipating. It had a pretty thick layer of PNW grime coating it, but it also had some body damage under the passenger rocker. I laughed when I popped the hood and discovered that the engine was a 5.8 v8 and not a 460 like they thought (my family member although is the original owner, they are not mechanically inclined AT ALL) This was a big bummer for me because I was wanting a big block engine for towing.

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The truck is indeed the HD version, so it has the increased GVWR of 8600lb and it has the Dana 50 TTB and sterling 10.25 rear end. It just doesn't have the motor to tow that much.

The problems I initially assessed on the truck were as follows:

  • Clogged catalytic converters
  • Rotted-out exhaust
  • Cracked passenger and driver exhaust manifolds
  • Needs a tune-up
  • The interior is inhabited by mice
  • The heater blower does not work


I spent time completely gutting the interior, cleaning it, and applying some sound deadener. I found at least 2 mice nests under the seats. I discovered the heater wasn't blowing because one of the mice crawled into the heater inlet and built a nest. They also happened to meet the spinning fan and perished in there. I had to completely disassemble the heater box to clean it, replace the fan with a metal one since it busted during removal, and I changed the resistor.
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The exhaust was trashed. I cut everything off since it was all junk. I installed JBA shorty headers that allow me to retain the EGR. I made a custom 2.5-inch y-pipe to a high-flow cat and out to a Borla turbo XL muffler. This is the first Borla muffler I have used and I like the sound of it. While I had the manifolds off I checked compression. For a 230,000-mile engine, there was only a 15 psi difference between all the cylinders. New plugs, wires, EGR, ignition etc. all got installed during this time.

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Once the exhaust was done I could finally drive it. It idled fine, but as soon as a load was put on it, it would stumble and struggle. I checked fuel pressure and both front and rear fuel delivery modules were shot and barely making enough PSI to run. I changed both front and rear FDM's, filter, FPR, and the rear tank (I busted a hole in some rust during removal).

My next test drive went great. It had power and accelerated smoothly. I was surprised at how well the transmission shifted and went through the gears. The brakes were junk but I expected that. I just didn't want to invest any money on the TTB front end since I was planning to get rid of that.


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Once I had I had it driving, I knew I needed to fix the brakes and the suspension. All the shocks were blown out. I am not sure what happened to them but there wasn't an ounce of dampening capability or even bushings for that matter at any corner. The day I got this truck driving I found a set of 1994 F-350 axles with 4.10 gears and bilstein shocks on the marketplace so I did a maiden voyage of about an hour away to get them. I was surprised I had no mechanical issues going there or back in a 100-mile roundtrip.

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The axles that came in the truck were 3.55 and open/open. This needed to be fixed ASAP. I took apart the 1994 sterling axle and rebuilt it with a 2011+ super-duty electronic rear locker. There is a lot of tech on this swap on the webs so it was an easy project and cost less than $500 to get the locker. I have a video covering this coming out soon. I installed some upfitter switches and relays I got from newer superduty and I used the amp switch for the locker.

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I rebuilt the hubs and brakes while I had the axle apart and almost wrecked on the test drive. The passenger side outer bearing disintegrated about 3 miles from my house on the test drive. The wheel locked up at 60 mph and nearly put me into another vehicle. Luckily I was able to get off the road and limp back to my shop. The bearings had plenty of oil, so the only assumption I can make to the failure is the crappy Chinese parts that I purchased from Autozone. I took apart both sides again and put new bearings and races from Timken in (not taking any chances this time). I learned my lesson, no more cheap parts even though this is a beater build.
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The TTB got removed in favor of Dana 60 from a 1994 F-350. I opted to do a shackle reversal and used Skys Offroad kit. It went very smoothly and took me 1 day to install. I also used Sky's adjustable trac bar and their trac bar bracket.

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The next modification to the truck will be front and rear bumpers, sliders/step rail and it desperately needs wheels and tires. I am wanting either 33s or 35s. It only gets 7 mpg so I am trying to figure that out because it should be getting better than that. I am hoping this engine/trans holds up for at least the rest of the year while I prepare for a Godzilla V8 swap.
 
Go 35s or 37s especially since you have 4.10s now

Helped my buddy build a 95 F250 5.8 years ago. 37" humvee tires and 4.10s made for a decent all around truck. I have an admiration for the 5.8 trucks due to what that poor old plow truck went through.

Godzilla swap would be cool
 
Go 35s or 37s especially since you have 4.10s now

Helped my buddy build a 95 F250 5.8 years ago. 37" humvee tires and 4.10s made for a decent all around truck. I have an admiration for the 5.8 trucks due to what that poor old plow truck went through.

Godzilla swap would be cool
I have a 5.8 in my Ranger and I love the engine. I just want something with a bit more grunt for what I would like this truck to be able to do. The Godzilla swap is still a pipe dream. I have been researching and sourcing parts. I just need to see how cheap I can get it. I don't want to put any more money into this outdated EFI setup or engine platform in this truck at least.
 
I have a 5.8 in my Ranger and I love the engine. I just want something with a bit more grunt for what I would like this truck to be able to do. The Godzilla swap is still a pipe dream. I have been researching and sourcing parts. I just need to see how cheap I can get it. I don't want to put any more money into this outdated EFI setup or engine platform in this truck at least.
I understand that. The easy button would be BBF for power. I'd argue that a modern TBI unit on a carb intake would be leaps and bounds better than EEC-IV
 
The TTB got removed in favor of Dana 60 from a 1994 F-350. I opted to do a shackle reversal and used Skys Offroad kit. It went very smoothly and took me 1 day to install. I also used Sky's adjustable trac bar and their trac bar bracket.

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The next modification to the truck will be front and rear bumpers, sliders/step rail and it desperately needs wheels and tires. I am wanting either 33s or 35s. It only gets 7 mpg so I am trying to figure that out because it should be getting better than that. I am hoping this engine/trans holds up for at least the rest of the year while I prepare for a Godzilla V8 swap.
The 5.8 in my 91 gets 9 around town and up to 15 on the highway. I have the 5 speed. Mine also has 4.10s and 32s. It will not get above 50 towing my scout, although the engine has 300k+ on it and may see a 460 swap soon. You are doing what I want to do to that truck, just some 350 axles and 35-37's. They are great work trucks, and can really take a beating.
 
I mean, if it's getting 7mpg anyway, a 460 isn't a downgrade in any way :grinpimp:
Yeah getting big block gas mileage from a small block sucks LOL
On those rigs, 35's are about right. Leave the 33's for the toyota guys :laughing:
Thats what I am leaning towards. I have been trying to get some used wheels/tires from the marketplace but I am not having any luck finding a deal.
 
The 5.8 in my 91 gets 9 around town and up to 15 on the highway. I have the 5 speed. Mine also has 4.10s and 32s. It will not get above 50 towing my scout, although the engine has 300k+ on it and may see a 460 swap soon. You are doing what I want to do to that truck, just some 350 axles and 35-37's. They are great work trucks, and can really take a beating.
Thanks for a real-world mileage comparison. I keep reading online people claiming up to 15 mpgs. One thing I need to do is recalibrate the speedo but I am waiting to get new tires for that since Ford locked the amount of calibrations to only 7 times.
 
Those don't look too bad! I am really hoping to find a set that looks similar to the stock wheels just in a 17. Nice truck BTW
 
I'm into that rig for about $3500 so far. Slowly cleaning it up, but trying to keep it a cheap truck. I woulda stuck with the stock wheels but they were 16.5's

Its been a handy shop truck. Having a flatbed thats about the same height as a semi trailer is bad ass if you dont own a forklift :laughing:
 
I pre oiled the bearings and I tilted the axle side to side for 10 minutes prior to the test drive. When I took the axle out tons of oil came with it so I know it wasn't a lube issue
On floater axles, I'll pack the wheel bearings with grease incase the oil is slow to fill up the hun
 
What trans do you have? There's a chance it's still a c6. Somewhere in late 90s was the end of it, but they went on for a long time. Heavy gvwr and 5.8, possibly?
 
I understand that. The easy button would be BBF for power. I'd argue that a modern TBI unit on a carb intake would be leaps and bounds better than EEC-IV
I'd do the same thing but TBI is trash. All the benifit is coming from the fact that you can build a spicier engine underneath it without making it unhappy.
 
What trans do you have? There's a chance it's still a c6. Somewhere in late 90s was the end of it, but they went on for a long time. Heavy gvwr and 5.8, possibly?
Nearly zero chance of that. By the mid 90s C6 was only in stuff that was special ordered that way or the few dozen "cheapest possible set of options we can make" variants of trucks and vans they make every year for advertising.
 
Nearly zero chance of that. By the mid 90s C6 was only in stuff that was special ordered that way or the few dozen "cheapest possible set of options we can make" variants of trucks and vans they make every year for advertising.
The original owner thought he had a 460 for 20 years, only to find a 351, that's why I asked :laughing: cheaperest option
 
The original owner thought he had a 460 for 20 years, only to find a 351, that's why I asked :laughing: cheaperest option
The first thing I did after I popped the hood was call and tell them that the truck they had been driving forever did not have 460 in it. They are the type of person who has Autozone change her wiper blades and believes everything that a local mechanic tells her. She was quoted nearly $4k to have the exhaust manifolds that were cracked replaced. I also recommended she finds a new local mechanic :homer::laughing:



The truck has the E4OD automatic. I believe the only option it has is air conditioning. Windows and locks are manual, manual t case, vinyl floor and it doesn't even have a tilt steering column. I discovered that this is a Canadian truck. It has the daytime running light model required by law in Canada and all the stickers have French language printed on them.
 
I made a video installing the newer 2011+ 10.5 factory locker in the '94 10.25 axle. Really all you have to do is notch the carrier for the tone ring and either grind a relief in the axle housing or drill a hole for the wires to pass through. It's been done tons of time previously and a nice option for a low budget selectable locker.

 
solid video, thanks. I appreciate it as a not lifelong ford guy and somebody who doesn't do much internet outside of here. i've been looking at the pre-97 axles for a donor to get a gear ratio swap instead of sticking with my lighter duty rear. $500 e-locker is a solid option :beer: :beer:
 
ChrisRWG SASing the truck will be cool, I look forward to seeing your process. Are you just going to cut the stock TTB crossmember down for room, or remove and replace with a custom one?
 
ChrisRWG SASing the truck will be cool, I look forward to seeing your process. Are you just going to cut the stock TTB crossmember down for room, or remove and replace with a custom one?
It's a complete bolt in affair. The f350 of this generation came with a solid front axle. All you need is the panhard bar and bracket, pitman arm and leaf springs from the f350. Remove the TTB, remove the TTB brackets and bolt in the f350 stuff. It's a one day job.

I could always do something more elaborate like a radius arm or link suspension, but this is just stupid cheap and simple. It still rides like a dump truck lol.
 
It's a complete bolt in affair. The f350 of this generation came with a solid front axle. All you need is the panhard bar and bracket, pitman arm and leaf springs from the f350. Remove the TTB, remove the TTB brackets and bolt in the f350 stuff. It's a one day job.

I could always do something more elaborate like a radius arm or link suspension, but this is just stupid cheap and simple. It still rides like a dump truck lol.
Ah, yeah, I've never crawled under those 350s and looked at the crossmember, I assumed it was smaller. I've seen a lot of people say the big bulky ttb crossmember needed to be removed or cut down for SAS's but maybe that was for high-travel suff. Sounds quick and easy if it's just gonna be OEM style.
 
What wheel seals did you go with on rear hubs?

What front springs are you running? It looks like you got rid of the stiffer ttb springs?

What did you do for the rear lift?

Nice truck:smokin:

Where is your irate salute?
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