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1962 Mercury ADHD build

YotaAtieToo said:
Seems like 5.38s would split your 2nd and 3rd split in half.

I like the old 4 speeds, they're fun to drive, but man that 2nd 3rd split is yuuuge.

The nice thing is if you did diff gears and more power, you might be able to pull 3rd low?

Oh, and just ls swap it:flipoff2:
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not wrong on the 2/3 shift being a big jump
do like the idea of keeping the 4.10 gears as stronger pinion head vs 5.38s and feel like anything less then 5.38 wouldnt be worth the work

and no ls swap :rainbow:
 
posford said:
Didn't scroll back to see what's done to current motor. Throw heads and cam in the 302. Never looked into 302HO spec cam in a non-HO (diff firing order) but if you got a 302HO cam it would work in a 351 later if it's not enough. Also, your 302 carb intake won't work on a 351. Figured you knew but I didn't see it posted
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motor right now is stock other then intake and headers, did think about just doing up the 302 as i have it. but its not a roller block and wont get the torque like a 351 would
 
so looks like ATK does a 300hp and 377lb 351w that is still using stock E7 heads and just bumped compression and a cam. pretty easy to copy that and thats good enough power numbers for what im after. they offer the same motor with aluminum heads and its rated at 385/410

www.high-performance-engines.com

Ford 351W Base Engine 300HP

ATK HP09 Ford 351W Base Engine 300HP, Call 866-721-2315 to Speak with an ATK Crate Engine Specialist
www.high-performance-engines.com
 
I would find some aftermarket heads with a chamber size that put comp ratio in the 9s, and an appropriate cam for truck RPM use. (under 215* intake or so).
That should net easy 75 hp for around $1500.

Or a 351 junk yard engine, port exhaust side of heads yourself, cam, intake.
 
rattle_snake said:
I would find some aftermarket heads with a chamber size that put comp ratio in the 9s, and an appropriate cam for truck RPM use. (under 215* intake or so).
That should net easy 75 hp for around $1500.

Or a 351 junk yard engine, port exhaust side of heads yourself, cam, intake.
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from looking around if i do 58cc heads then it will get me in the 9.3-9.5 to 1 ratios and thats good for 300hp with a cam in my 302. even more in a 351w if i go that way.

my spare 302 is a roller block just does not have a roller cam. so tempted to just build it up and give up some torque as i have it and saves some cost as no longer need a new intake ect
 
There are some cheap import heads out there with shit valve train. Not a good choice for a daily but could work fine in a trail rig. Springs are likely whatever, if not close putting in a with set appropriate seat/open numbers for cam would be worth the cost. probably need aftermarket rockers and pushrods.
 
rattle_snake said:
I would find some aftermarket heads with a chamber size that put comp ratio in the 9s, and an appropriate cam for truck RPM use. (under 215* intake or so).
That should net easy 75 hp for around $1500.

Or a 351 junk yard engine, port exhaust side of heads yourself, cam, intake.
Click to expand...

Why not around 10-10.5:1 if he were to run aluminum heads? Compression is one of the only ways to gain low end naturally aspirated (although adding displacement is much more effective). Of course he would have to run premium, but for something that isn't a daily, it doesn't seem like a big deal to me.
 
rather keep the compression in the 9s so dont have to run premium when only making 300ish hp. cost of premium in snow mexico is around $6 a gallon right now. even if not a daily im over the premium life if can help hit
 
Go for the extra torque the cubes will give you, you will be happier. Especially with a manual
 
Snowracer said:
rather keep the compression in the 9s so dont have to run premium when only making 300ish hp. cost of premium in snow mexico is around $6 a gallon right now. even if not a daily im over the premium life if can help hit
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Premium is usually about the same price or cheaper than diesel around here.
 
I watched a few of his videos last night, enjoyed it. My first time watching snow wheeling. Looks pretty awesome.
 
this weekend was first time ive been able to work on the truck as need to get ready to wheel next weekend

gf and i took some time off and rode the bikes up to Hyder Alaska

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once back in the shop first thing i did was build new motor mounts. last time out the motor was moving around enough that the pass side header was hitting the frame. motor mounts looked good but built some dom bushing ones anyway. did wind up lifting the motor up a bit but thats ok as little more header room now. pulled the trans mount and it looks good so put it back in with a spacer to match the new motor height

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_Wiv0IaiRJShBSBnt_nRd7lbLELignN6bXGbbtObdKiQ=w2400.jpg


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driver side inner axle seal started to leak. when i went through the diff the axle was pretty bad looking but didnt have the funds to buy all new axles so hoped for the best. new axle is a 4340 axle as well so nice upgrade there

9HoT2SVf_HRkhRO0Q8iVrY-pUXVfHQZOH19E99toU-BQ=w2400.jpg
 
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so this things has a bit of axle wrap in the rear and needs something to stop that.

i have always done the single ladder style bar on the pass side with a shackle. i even have one left over from another project but would take a bit to make it work as will need to build a crossmember and will also have to re work the exhaust as its in the way. so been looking at 2 link style traction bars as no issues making them fit. yes will lose a little clearance and not have the drive shaft protection but i feel like thats not as big of a deal on this rig as not a rock crawler. so whats the best way to set up a 2 link that wont bind?

this is the style im talking about

of91wwnv7qYHUEi1cIzHpCXWbvuolj3eOSKK4KiDSRpw=w2400.jpg


offroad design offers a kit and they say to find the spot of least movement and weld the frame side on

www.offroaddesign.com

2 Link Traction Bar Kit For 52"/56" Long Chevy Springs

2 Link Traction Bar Kit For 52"/56" Long Chevy Springs
www.offroaddesign.com www.offroaddesign.com
 
I had some about 5' long under my 79 ford, single link on each end. They noticably planted the rear under throttle and pulled the front up under heavy throttle. Worked really nice.
They did hinder flex some, but theoretically there is a sweet spot for length that will work with the arc the axle travels and only slightly hinder flex.
 
Snowracer said:
so whats the best way to set up a 2 link that wont bind?

this is the style im talking about

of91wwnv7qYHUEi1cIzHpCXWbvuolj3eOSKK4KiDSRpw=w2400.jpg


offroad design offers a kit and they say to find the spot of least movement and weld the frame side on
Click to expand...
Following, I'm going to end up doing the same on my squarebody more than likely (I want giant flashy ladder bars but it seems like those are better when you have very limited suspension travel). I figure what I'll try doing is going into the link calulator and setting up a rear 4 link where the leaf springs are the "top links" and the traction bars are the "bottom links" and just playing with some lengths and angles until I find something easy that's close to 100% anti-squat.
Obviously it won't be perfect because the leaf spring isn't a solid member and will have some deflection, but I feel like it should be a place to start.
If you end up with the ORD kit let me know how it goes, because it seems like a pretty good deal :beer:
 
i already have 4 1.25 joints and some left over .25 wall dom links from the last truck. so option is use that to make some beefy 2 link tractions bars or just order 4 7/8 joints and link the rear with coils. linked with tj coils is a pretty cheap option and will give me more flex and fix the axle wrap issues so thats pretty tempting right now :homer:
 
Spend the time, effort and parts you have moving forward instead of a band-aid. Link the rear or build a shackle style bar..
 
rattle_snake said:
Spend the time, effort and parts you have moving forward instead of a band-aid. Link the rear or build a shackle style bar..
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whats your reason behind doing a single shackle style bar over the 2 link ?
 
Snowracer said:
whats your reason behind doing a single shackle style bar over the 2 link ?
Click to expand...
A 2 link set up like your picture above will bind with the leaf spring because the pivot points are so far apart. The leaf spring will be moving thru a small radius arc than the traction bar. It's probably not a big deal on something that is only street driven with not much wheel travel.
 
ok so i have always done the single shackle style of traction bar on the pass side but sucks to fit with exhaust ect. found pics of both rattle_snake and reptillikus running that style of bar on the driver side. so no issues with running it on the side of the axle or does it even matter and im just going off some 20 year old crap i read on the old site :confused:
 
In for knowledge on that too, I've had a ruff-stuff ladder bar sitting in the garage for a while, it would be a lot easier to package on the driver's side of my F250.
 
It's my understanding that you put it in the passenger side because it combats the torque lift from the drivetrain, but I couldn't fit it over there for obvious reasons. It still works just fine on the driver side. Ive had it there for probably 10-12 years now, hasn't caused any issues.
 
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