1962 Mercury ADHD build

[Snowracer]

Can you really feel the difference, or is it just in your head?

ive had a few different SE setups and never noticed it.



I was curious if the boggers were temp. Those 43s actually shorter? Or just not as wide and square as the boggazz?

only other time i have run a SE was on my 7.3 truggy and it was with same ram and orbital im running now. i defiantly had a hard time turning one direction but if might have had something to do with the pump i was running as well. oh and 2000 pounds of motor over the front end will find out this weekend how well it works on this truck

dont think the 43s will be any shorter but not as wide for sure plus on the aluminum beadlocks i should not need wheel spacers. was going to get 40s for this truck but after seeing it on the 44s i dont think i can go down that small now. supplier through work just started to sell MT so getting a wicked deal on them even if have to wait a while to get tthem

 

[Snowracer]

I tried to get a set of 43s last year but they were unobtanium back then. So hopefully you get your set, and they work as good as i think they will!

im fine waiting for them as can run the boggers for now. buddy got a set of the 43s on the Welfare and they work awesome for him

 

[YotaAtieToo]

only other time i have run a SE was on my 7.3 truggy and it was with same ram and orbital im running now. i defiantly had a hard time turning one direction but if might have had something to do with the pump i was running as well. oh and 2000 pounds of motor over the front end will find out this weekend how well it works on this truck

dont think the 43s will be any shorter but not as wide for sure plus on the aluminum beadlocks i should not need wheel spacers. was going to get 40s for this truck but after seeing it on the 44s i dont think i can go down that small now. supplier through work just started to sell MT so getting a wicked deal on them even if have to wait a while to get tthem

I ran a 2.5x8 with 37-42s. Always worked great. Technically the weak side is the same as a DE and the strong side is stronger.

 

[rattle_snake]

......was going to get 40s for this truck but after seeing it on the 44s i dont think i can go down that small now...

First world problems I guess

 

[Snowracer]

teaser pic from the weekend till i have time to do a full wright up

 

[holdmypocket]

That's worth framing and putting up on your wall. Love it.

 

[Levigarrett76]

Agreed, damn

 

[rattle_snake]

Hell ya, love the classic lines, boggers and snow.

 

[Snowracer]

ok so will try my best at a wright up for the weekend. we loaded up and headed out to Houston bc for what will probably be the last chance of snow wheeling.

pretty good size group for the weekend

we started to head up the mountain in hopes of making the top. snow level was low and made it pretty close to the top but the snow was dirty rotten snow. some how gf and i wound up second in the pack behind the skinny chicken chevy. the two of us where pulling the hill while the rest of the group was back a ways. he pulled over to cool down so i passed him and was now leading. hit some really bad snow that was 44 bogger deep. right tie rod snapped right at the jam nut, so we cut a log and strapped the knuckle to the log against the leaf to keep the tire straight. while winching i got so stuck that i snapped the winch cable and the log fell out and pulled the tire off the wheel. so being a full on trail tampon and blocking everyone we go the Welfare past me and he winched me up and out.

once i was out of the way everyone else made it up and past me but snow got so bad they didnt make it much farther. we pulled the wheel off and seated it back on. left the truck on the mountain and headed back to camp then got a ride into town and grabbed another tie rod. hopped in the Welfare and went back up and threaded the new tie rod in and drove the Merc back to camp

 

[Levigarrett76]

Any ideas as to why the tie rod failed? Seems kind of odd

 

[Snowracer]

random pics from day 1

this shows the angle of the mountain pretty well

 

[Snowracer]

day 2 came and we headed back up the other side of the mountain in hopes of making it but snow was even worse. hung at the back of the pack all day as no winch so didnt want to chance it. we pretty much crawled everything once there was a path. had a real bad banging sound every time got on the throttle and as far as i can tell its a bad motor mount. pass side header is beat to shit from hitting the frame.

gf was little bummed as she didnt get to drive much as i broke the truck first day and wasnt sure where the banging was coming from so didnt let her drive the second day. but still all smiles as was a great weekend

header is looking little worse for wear

 

[Snowracer]

so after the weekend there are some things to fix for sure. have to figure out better motor mounts and fix the header. will swap to heim joints over the tie rods as i have them already. ram needs new seals as it started to bypass a little bit at the end of the weekend. other then that truck held up great.

it needs a rear traction bar for sure as axle wrap in the snow was pretty bad. i have one so just need to build mounts for it. steering worked well other then the tie rod failure and seals in the ram. took a bit to feel comfortable with the steering at speeds on the fsr roads. Nitro hubs held up but when in 2wd the one turned in on its own while driving twice, probably needs some adjustment to stop that. can now feel the lack of power when in high range, when on the fsr its hard to hold 3rd gear as it just powers out unless on flat ground. gearing and the 4 speed are wicked in low range so dont feel the need to regear the diffs yet. after watching the Welfare in the crap snow on the 43 MT tires and how well they worked im pumped for when ever mine show up.

 

[Snowracer]

Any ideas as to why the tie rod failed? Seems kind of odd

not totally sure but it was bent before we left and i didnt have a chance to change it. it actually bent in the shop before even wheeling it when i was having all the steering box issues. will swap to heim joints and make sure to pack a trail spare

 

[reptillikus]

Sucks about the carnage but it still looks like it was a good weekend of wheeling

 

[Snowracer]

Sucks about the carnage but it still looks like it was a good weekend of wheeling

was a great weekend, more bummed out about the motor mount and winch line as kept us from hanging out at the front of the pack and making up some ground. gets pretty boring at the back pulling every one out and waiting

 

[Snowracer]

ok so havent even washed this or looked at it after the trip but already dreaming about mods to be made. main thing is it needs more power, dont feel like it needs more gears as pretty happy there even with 4.10s in the diffs. feel like if i go deeper gears ill be to low, right now most trail riding is in 2nd and 3rd and crawl in 1st.

went down the dream worm hole of adding a turbo to the current motor but just cant pull the trigger of having to replace the new efi set up to make it work. so that put me into the idea of swapping the 302 for a 351. other then intake and making a new exhaust Y pipe everything i have will swap over. now im not looking for big power, im thinking 300-350 hp at the fly wheel. current 302 is rated at 185hp/270lb and doing a same obs truck 351 would get me 210hp/315lbs, so shouldnt be to hard to hit the 300hp mark. im not the most knowable in motors so open to some input on what to do as will start collecting parts and do the swap maybe come winter time.

so do i try and find a 94+ truck roller motor or just grab a 93 down motor and stay flat tappet? for my power goals im going to guess ill need a set of aluminum heads to make that happen. been looking at the speedmaster heads, yes they are not great but they are cheap and better then stock heads. with better heads and a small cam will i be in the 300+ range or will i need to change pistons to bump compression as i think stock obs motors are in the 8.5-1 range.

its tuesday so flame away

 

['84 Bronco II]

ok so havent even washed this or looked at it after the trip but already dreaming about mods to be made. main thing is it needs more power, dont feel like it needs more gears as pretty happy there even with 4.10s in the diffs. feel like if i go deeper gears ill be to low, right now most trail riding is in 2nd and 3rd and crawl in 1st.

went down the dream worm hole of adding a turbo to the current motor but just cant pull the trigger of having to replace the new efi set up to make it work. so that put me into the idea of swapping the 302 for a 351. other then intake and making a new exhaust Y pipe everything i have will swap over. now im not looking for big power, im thinking 300-350 hp at the fly wheel. current 302 is rated at 185hp/270lb and doing a same obs truck 351 would get me 210hp/315lbs, so shouldnt be to hard to hit the 300hp mark. im not the most knowable in motors so open to some input on what to do as will start collecting parts and do the swap maybe come winter time.

so do i try and find a 94+ truck roller motor or just grab a 93 down motor and stay flat tappet? for my power goals im going to guess ill need a set of aluminum heads to make that happen. been looking at the speedmaster heads, yes they are not great but they are cheap and better then stock heads. with better heads and a small cam will i be in the 300+ range or will i need to change pistons to bump compression as i think stock obs motors are in the 8.5-1 range.

its tuesday so flame away

An Explorer 5.0L will do 300+ flywheel pretty easy with a decent cam, valvesprings, and headers. They come with the best factory Windsor heads Ford ever made and the best intake short of the unobtanium Cobra manifolds. They are also a distributorless setup as well.

Stock truck 5.8Ls make basically the same horsepower as a 5.0L, just a lot more torque (Ford only rated the 5.8L 5HP higher in truck applications). They have way more displacement/power potential than the 5.0L platform though if you are willing to spring for aftermarkey bling.

Standard Mustang 5.0L HO vs truck 5.8L with a dual plane carbureted induction system, both with Dyno headers:

Regardless, get a roller block. Roller cams are always better, and retrofitting roller lifters on a non-roller block is wasted money in comparison. 300-350 HP is fairly reasonable for a 5.0L based build with a truck-friendly cam and intake, and 350-400 HP for a similar 5.8L build. If you are willing to shell out for heads, the 5.8L is the way I would go.

 

[Levigarrett76]

I ran a stock(350ish hp), mild (400ish hp) and a warm (470 hp) 460 for number of years in a 79 f250 with 39 boggers and later 44 tsls. 4.10's in both, then with 5.13s. Alot of this was with a t-18, then an np435. The 435 had a slightly lower 2nd gear.

Even with big block power, it was all I could do to pull 2nd gear 4 high with the 4.10's in mud. 5.13's solved my issues, then I swapped to doubler and c-6

Are you running in high or low?

 

[Snowracer]

An Explorer 5.0L will do 300+ flywheel pretty easy with a decent cam, valvesprings, and headers. They come with the best factory Windsor heads Ford ever made and the best intake short of the unobtanium Cobra manifolds. They are also a distributorless setup as well.

Stock truck 5.8Ls make basically the same horsepower as a 5.0L, just a lot more torque (Ford only rated the 5.8L 5HP higher in truck applications). They have way more displacement/power potential than the 5.0L platform though if you are willing to spring for aftermarkey bling.

Standard Mustang 5.0L HO vs truck 5.8L with a dual plane carbureted induction system, both with Dyno headers:

Regardless, get a roller block. Roller cams are always better, and retrofitting roller lifters on a non-roller block is wasted money in comparison. 300-350 HP is fairly reasonable for a 5.0L based build with a truck-friendly cam and intake, and 350-400 HP for a similar 5.8L build. If you are willing to shell out for heads, the 5.8L is the way I would go.

trying to find anything gt40 in my area is next to impossible or very $$$. truck 351s are easy to get and cheap as they are everywhere around here. Im not running the ford intake as have a fitech efi so carb intake and headers ect.

looking at these heads as can get pretty cheap and better then anything stock that will need to be rebuilt

Ford SB 289 302 351 Windsor 190cc 62cc Hydraulic Roller Assembled Cylinder Heads

SpecsBrand:SpeedmasterPart Number:PCE281.2048Part Type:Cylinder HeadsCylinder Head Style:AssembledCylinder Head Material:AluminumCylinder Head Finish:NaturalCombustion Chamber Volume (cc):62 ccCNC-Machined Combustion Chamber:NoIntake Runner Volume (cc):190 ccExhaust Runner Volume...

www.speedmaster79.com

 

[Snowracer]

I ran a stock(350ish hp), mild (400ish hp) and a warm (470 hp) 460 for number of years in a 79 f250 with 39 boggers and later 44 tsls. 4.10's in both, then with 5.13s. Alot of this was with a t-18, then an np435. The 435 had a slightly lower 2nd gear.

Even with big block power, it was all I could do to pull 2nd gear 4 high with the 4.10's in mud. 5.13's solved my issues, then I swapped to doubler and c-6

Are you running in high or low?

high range for fsr roads but cant hold 3rd gear as powers outs on small hills. in low range its first for crawling and 2nd and even 3rd gear for trail riding. with the 2.73 low range in the nv271 case its pretty deep with 410 diff gears

quick numbers as like playing with the crawl ratio calculator

4.10 diff with t18 and 271

low range
1st 70-1
2nd 34-1
3rd 18.1

high range
1st 25-1
2nd 12-1
3rd 6-1

if swap to 5.38 with t18 and 271

low range
1st 92-1
2nd 45-1
3rd 24-1

high range
1st 34-1
2nd 16-1
3rd 9-1

 

[Levigarrett76]

For comparisons sake, I think my final ratio was about 14:1 in 2nd 4hi with 4.10's with the 435's 3.34:1 2nd gear. I could barely pull it depending on thickness/drag of mud with power levels above, just say 425hp/500tq

 

[arse_sidewards]

trying to find anything gt40 in my area is next to impossible or very $$$. truck 351s are easy to get and cheap as they are everywhere around here. Im not running the ford intake as have a fitech efi so carb intake and headers ect.

Seems like 351 is the obvious choice then.

 

[Snowracer]

For comparisons sake, I think my final ratio was about 14:1 in 2nd 4hi with 4.10's with the 435's 3.34:1 2nd gear. I could barely pull it depending on thickness/drag of mud with power levels above, just say 425hp/500tq

im not really worried about high range as only used for fsr roads. just worried that gears in the diffs will make it to low in low range as even now in second gear at 2500-2900rpm im holding up trail traffic. when i hit the deep snow and let it eat it i was in second gear and it worked just needed more power to keep it going and keep the rpm up.

 

[Snowracer]

Seems like 351 is the obvious choice then.

thats the idea and why i was asking about 351 build ideas so can start collecting parts

 

[Levigarrett76]

Not trying to make suggestion, just providing info for comparison sake.
I could pull 3rd 4 low with the 435

Cubic inches will def help your cause

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Seems like 5.38s would split your 2nd and 3rd split in half.

I like the old 4 speeds, they're fun to drive, but man that 2nd 3rd split is yuuuge.

The nice thing is if you did diff gears and more power, you might be able to pull 3rd low?

Oh, and just ls swap it

 

[posford]

Didn't scroll back to see what's done to current motor. Throw heads and cam in the 302. Never looked into 302HO spec cam in a non-HO (diff firing order) but if you got a 302HO cam it would work in a 351 later if it's not enough. Also, your 302 carb intake won't work on a 351. Figured you knew but I didn't see it posted

 

[665.0coupe]

Didn't scroll back to see what's done to current motor. Throw heads and cam in the 302. Never looked into 302HO spec cam in a non-HO (diff firing order) but if you got a 302HO cam it would work in a 351 later if it's not enough. Also, your 302 carb intake won't work on a 351. Figured you knew but I didn't see it posted

You just have to get the plug wires in the correct order. There are no other differences. Same with a Chevy 4-7 swap and all other firing order swaps.

 

[posford]

You just have to get the plug wires in the correct order. There are no other differences. Same with a Chevy 4-7 swap and all other firing order swaps.

I figured, since I'd never seen a HO specific crank, just never had done it