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1962 Mercury ADHD build

Sweet jesus that is cold. We went to the lake last weekend no wet suit needed. ha ha
:cool2:

well looks like i wont have this done for hung over run on new years day. got another cold snap this week so not out in the shop. even worse this time as its -40c so thats also -40f :barf: supposed to warm up for the holidays so will try and get back at it then
 
well looks like i wont have this done for hung over run on new years day. got another cold snap this week so not out in the shop. even worse this time as its -40c so thats also -40f :barf: supposed to warm up for the holidays so will try and get back at it then

Were having a cold spell, but "only" dipping into about - 5* Freedoms. I'm not sure I can imagine -40*. You just can't heat the shop enough?
 
Were having a cold spell, but "only" dipping into about - 5* Freedoms. I'm not sure I can imagine -40*. You just can't heat the shop enough?
we are braking records right now but supposed to warm back up in a few days. last year i ditched my wood stove for a pellet stove, it just doesnt put out the heat like the wood does. it does let me run it non stop so i can work on stuff after work compared to the wood stove that i had to stoke up every few hours. last night i went out there when i got home, it was -38 (-36f) outside and shop was at +1 (33f) so stove it doing its job just cant keep up with how cold it is. last week it was about -20 (-4f) and shop was +10 (50f) so more then good enough to be working on stuff
 
we are braking records right now but supposed to warm back up in a few days. last year i ditched my wood stove for a pellet stove, it just doesnt put out the heat like the wood does. it does let me run it non stop so i can work on stuff after work compared to the wood stove that i had to stoke up every few hours. last night i went out there when i got home, it was -38 (-36f) outside and shop was at +1 (33f) so stove it doing its job just cant keep up with how cold it is. last week it was about -20 (-4f) and shop was +10 (50f) so more then good enough to be working on stuff

A few years ago I bought a small diesel torpedo heater for like $160 from Lowes. It will roast out a 30x35 shop in like 15 Mins.

Not good for maintaining heat, and it's loud, but it's really nice for blasting a shop up to temp. I bet you would only need to turn it on every hour or less if you wanted to keep it ~60* with the pellet stove going full time.

It's also handy for heating or defrosting random things. I used it to preheat old truck drums to make stands out of and at work the other day to attempt to do a cold asphalt patch.
 
A few years ago I bought a small diesel torpedo heater for like $160 from Lowes. It will roast out a 30x35 shop in like 15 Mins.

Not good for maintaining heat, and it's loud, but it's really nice for blasting a shop up to temp. I bet you would only need to turn it on every hour or less if you wanted to keep it ~60* with the pellet stove going full time.

It's also handy for heating or defrosting random things. I used it to preheat old truck drums to make stands out of and at work the other day to attempt to do a cold asphalt patch.
i was thinking of picking one up but im totally fine pushing back getting the truck done, gives me more time to make sure i dont rush. would be different it was trying to get ready for insanity fab or a big group trail ride but it was just going to be 3 rigs going out and the one guys hasnt even started to fix his since last trip :shaking:.
 
i was thinking of picking one up but im totally fine pushing back getting the truck done, gives me more time to make sure i dont rush. would be different it was trying to get ready for insanity fab or a big group trail ride but it was just going to be 3 rigs going out and the one guys hasnt even started to fix his since last trip :shaking:.

Are you coming to insanity fab? We just got a foot or more dumped on top of the ~18" or so on the ground, plus more coming next week :smokin:
 
Are you coming to insanity fab? We just got a foot or more dumped on top of the ~18" or so on the ground, plus more coming next week :smokin:
nope wont be able to make it this year. few buddies from our area are coming down to race and i feel like Sam will be a contender in the big tire class. hes rocking a Ftoy buggy with a turbo v6 toy motor and tons and 46s and the thing is wicked and seen him put the run on LS buggys :smokin:
 
nope wont be able to make it this year. few buddies from our area are coming down to race and i feel like Sam will be a contender in the big tire class. hes rocking a Ftoy buggy with a turbo v6 toy motor and tons and 46s and the thing is wicked and seen him put the run on LS buggys :smokin:

Should be fun

Not sure if anyone can really touch that twin turbo big block FJ buggy on 58s from kelowna though :laughing:
 
Should be fun

Not sure if anyone can really touch that twin turbo big block FJ buggy on 58s from kelowna though :laughing:
that is true but he will be in the unlimited class, same as the other Kelowna buggy that also likes to party
 
Guess I don't know much about the event :laughing:

Crazy that a rig on 46s isn't in the highest class these days :laughing:
3 classes now, small tire (40 and under) big tire is anything over 40 and unlimited is rear steer, bigger then 1 tons and non dot tires. they broke it up a few years ago as wasnt fair to be there in a trial truck on 40+ tires and racing a rear steer 1000hp bouncer on USDs :laughing:
 
havent gotten much done with it being so cold and the holidays. did finish up the rad support and trimmed the fenders.

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bent the shifters so they no longer hit each other. got the fancy knobs on and was able to use the stock 89 F250 boots

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got a matching knob for the glove box at home depot

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picked up a fan shroud and bolted the mechanical fan on. wont work as looks like the rad is higher up then the motor so not enough clearance at the bottom of the shroud. not able to lower the shroud enough as the lower hose and steering box is in the way. would also need a fan spacer as fan wasnt even in the shroud. so guess i need to find an electric fan to fit and change out my alternator to support that

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went shopping in the buggy parts pile again
steering cooler and lines are done.

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peaking through the grille

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also took the new alternator for the buggy. its a 130 amp 3G to replace the 70amp 2G fire starter that was on the truck

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I am running a fan for a 2006 Ford Freestar in mine. Paired with a DC controls fan controller. Typical 87-91 radiator. Easily cools my 466 in the summer.


Thats good to know about the Freestar fan as been looking at a few different options. i know i have a big dual fan but its for the 34" wide chevy rads. with the OBS ford rad being 29x18 im looking at the 10-14 mustang single fan as can get cheap through work and if it will cool a gt500 it should keep my 302 pos cool. it will be a little smaller at 24x19 but can make it work and has a resister built in that i should be able to wire for low and high. other fan im looking at is the crown vic single as have ran it before and it worked well
 
Theres a newer F150 fan that fits the OBS radiator too, but i dont recall the p/n offhand. I can find it if youre interested. But yeah ive had good luck with the Freestar fan. On road, on the trail, even in the middle of summer, it doesnt have a problem keeping it cool. i used to run the Volvo fan that basically everyone used to run, but i think the dual fan setup cools it more efficiently.

The DC controls fan controller is PWM, so even tho the Freestar is single speed it doesnt matter because it just ramps up and down as needed.
 
Theres a newer F150 fan that fits the OBS radiator too, but i dont recall the p/n offhand. I can find it if youre interested. But yeah ive had good luck with the Freestar fan. On road, on the trail, even in the middle of summer, it doesnt have a problem keeping it cool. i used to run the Volvo fan that basically everyone used to run, but i think the dual fan setup cools it more efficiently.

The DC controls fan controller is PWM, so even tho the Freestar is single speed it doesnt matter because it just ramps up and down as needed.
the newer F150s (15 to current) are 31 or 34 wide cores. im sure could make the dual fan off on work on the OBS rad if hang it over the tanks. Ive done a tauras fan in the past and even looked at the volvo ones but they are getting harder to find now.

have never used a controller just a big ass relay and circuit breaker. is the controller worth the money ?
 
Someone on FSB found a F150 fan that fit the OBS radiator pretty good. I might still have it bookmarked, i have to look.

I had my volvo fan just wired to a relay/dash switch for who knows how many years. It was ok, as long as i remembered to turn it on :laughing:

I switched to the controller from DC Controls during my full rebuild a couple years ago because my buddy Ox has run the same controller on his crawler for at least 15 years now and its still alive and kicking. But the PWM is super nice because with the reduced load on the electrical system you dont even notice the fan turn on. I used the ABS circuit (since its Key-On power, and i dont have ABS) to trigger a 75a relay that turns the controller on, so i never have to remember to turn it on. The controller has some options i didnt get (like variable temp control on-the-fly), and some i did, such as a feedback LED i put in the dash so i can see if the fan is on and how fast its turning, simply by the color of the LED. So when i drive it to work in the winter the fan doesnt even turn on, and i can watch it ramp up and down when cruising around town on the warmer days.
So these days ive got a fully built motor, and when i go back and look at the data logs, i can see the fan controller is doing a phenomenal job of maintaining temps regardless of what im doing with the truck at the time.

15 years ago when i first put an electric fan in (with a simple switch and relay) i didnt care if it ran til the motor was cold, as long as it wasnt overheating i was cool with it :laughing: But these days im older and more particular about what i want, and thus far the controller has done a great job of keeping the motor right at the temps it should be.
 
I'll throw this dude's hat in the ring for a PWM controller.. his site is weird to navigate but his controller is the tits: WWW.AUTOCOOLGUY.COM

I run that in my 78 with an aftermarket "clone" of the MKVIII fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001SGHK1W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Only comes on/speeds up when it needs to, I can control the threshold, has a terminal to hook up my AC to (to speed up when AC comes on), and a terminal for a failsafe switch (flip the switch for full speed). He's very responsive to email. I tried to get away with running the sensor that wraps around the radiator outlet and it wasn't quick/accurate enough.. an inline-sensor is the way to go (he provides that on the site).

It is pricey though.. $$$
 
nothing new to add other then found this link while looking at fans. some really good info about the volvo and ford fans as well as other tech about fans ect

 
Interesting read. I actually have I think 4 of those Volvo fans on a shelf in the garage but after switching to the Freestar fan, it definitely does a better job keeping the engine cool.

Surprised to read about a failed DC Controls controller let alone 2; I don't know anyone who's had one fail, let alone two. I've seen that Autocoolguy controller before and it's pretty cool. I went with DC's mainly because of packaging (it's a lot smaller) and it seems more water resistant.
 
Interesting read. I actually have I think 4 of those Volvo fans on a shelf in the garage but after switching to the Freestar fan, it definitely does a better job keeping the engine cool.

Surprised to read about a failed DC Controls controller let alone 2; I don't know anyone who's had one fail, let alone two. I've seen that Autocoolguy controller before and it's pretty cool. I went with DC's mainly because of packaging (it's a lot smaller) and it seems more water resistant.
I was concerned about water resistance and asked the auto cool guy about that before I purchased and this was his response:

"Our pc boards are coated with a clear
lacquer and the case will not hold water.
Just do not put a garden hose into it
to clean out debris.

I have submerged the III into a pale of
water running and it recovered without
failure."

He's pretty thrilled with his product and himself (and so far I have no reason not to be) so take that with a grain of salt.

That Volvo site's report about failing DC Controls controllers is the only time I've heard of any failures, but looking back that guy had other controllers fail, relay failures, and fan failures. I read forums obsessively before I took the leap and never heard of any failures from other people for what it's worth. Makes me question if something else is going on over there with his Volvo.
 
as of right now im going to just use the Fitech to control the fan as did that on the last build and it works rather well. will keep looking into the controllers as would be nice in the buggy having the fans ramp up when they are right behind my back :homer:
 
In my Frontier I'm using a Dakota Digital 2800BT controller paired with some oem Volvo relays to run an old school Taurus fan. I haven't really beat on it but it has yet to engage the high side at all.

Plus being able to tweak the on/off points for low and high via phone is cool :laughing:
 
how about the Flex-a-lite controller? can get it local (in Canada so shipping is killer) says its good for 45amps so probably not enough for a stock Ford fan


looks like the Derale ones is a better options just not sure about the stick on sensor

 
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The Derale one seems ok, I agree that the Flex-a-lite is probably a little undersized, altho with PWM the fan shouldn't pull as much current anyway. The Autocoolguy (ACG) and DC Controls controllers can handle a ton more current, even more than the Derale one, altho you won't need it for that fan. I don't like the stick-on sensor tho. The ACG has an inline sensor and the DC uses a delta sensor in the fins of the radiator so I'd say pick one based on the sensor you prefer because all 3 controllers seem to get the job done just fine.
 
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