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10.25 disks

ANGELO

Red Numb Skull
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
453
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242
Location
BRADENTON FL
Im so sick of the drums on my 92 f250. this will be the 3rd set in 4 years.. they continue to adjust to tight and are always rubbing. once a week i have to back the adjuster off. Also the only time my parking brake actually hold is when they are tight enough to smell... I did the first set, a friend who does heavy trucks did it the second time. When they were somewhat right they wouldnt be even and one side would lock..

So disks. who makes the best conversion set? I was looking at the ruffstuff and lugnut kit.
My main issue is the parking brake. Im in fl so theres only 2 times ill need it. i need it is when i get out of the truck on a slight incline, Im sure just about any proper functioning brake should hold for that. I also will need it to hold at boat ramps. I carry a block for a tire and turn the wheel before getting out, But I need somthing that will hold without having to shut the truck off and put it in gear.
The parking brake upgrade looks to be about 200$ how well does that actually work? or should i just get a good line lock with that money. the longest the parking brake might be on is a hour.
Proportioning valves ill need one right?
It has a d60 front and hydroboost now.
 

Gravy

Well-known member
Joined
May 27, 2020
Member Number
1603
Messages
215
Most of the kits use the same front chevy calipers. I haven't tried the caddy e brake caliper but have heard it doesn't work very well.
I would do ball valve line lock and carry a block.
 

Tiha

Well-known member
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May 20, 2020
Member Number
711
Messages
346
Finding an E-350 from a van should be pretty cheap by now. It has everything you need. Then just a master cylinder swap.

Pretty easy swap.
 

YotaAtieToo

Thick skull
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142
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MAGAlia, CA
Finding an E-350 from a van should be pretty cheap by now. It has everything you need. Then just a master cylinder swap.

Pretty easy swap.

You've done this swap?

All the e brake stuff bolts up?



The other option is just grab a 10.5" and have the hubs machined. Then you run the E350 rotors.
 

Tiha

Well-known member
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May 20, 2020
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711
Messages
346
Yeah, can't remember the E-brake cables if I had to swap them or not, but E-350 axle and master cylinder. Pretty easy swap.

I think I had to swap the back two e-brake cables, the ones that attach to the backing plate.
 

Tiha

Well-known member
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711
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346
I forgot something important. You have to move the spring perches.
 

arse_sidewards

Masshole
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I forgot something important. You have to move the spring perches.

I was really close to calling you out on that but I assumed you were talking about just swapping the brakes themselves.


The E-series rear end is a D60 which is a massive downgrade over the 10.25. If you get a DRW one it's a 70 which is at best a horizontal move.
 

ANGELO

Red Numb Skull
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
453
Messages
242
Location
BRADENTON FL
I ended up buying the lugnut4x4 kit. it went together pretty good. I just need to hook up the parking brake
 

ANGELO

Red Numb Skull
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453
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242
Location
BRADENTON FL
I was really close to calling you out on that but I assumed you were talking about just swapping the brakes themselves.


The E-series rear end is a D60 which is a massive downgrade over the 10.25. If you get a DRW one it's a 70 which is at best a horizontal move.

I thought he just ment the brakes. the kit i bought uses e350 rotors.

for a axle swap, why not just use a newer 10.50?
 

YotaAtieToo

Thick skull
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I thought he meant the whole brake set up also. Swapping a sterling for a D60 in a tow rig is pretty dumb.

As afr as the 10.5. You can just machine the hubs to 8x6.5 and run the same E350 rotors we've mentioned.

I actually have a complete E350 axle here, I'll have to look at it and my 10.25 a little closer to see if the backing plate flange looks even remotely similar. Iirc, it doesn't.
 

F350

New member
Joined
Sep 13, 2020
Member Number
2864
Messages
2
Just a heads up sd e350 vans are 8x6.5 up till 03-05,I don't remember exactlywhen they changedthem.i have rear disk on my truck and used 02 e350 rear rotors.

Trucks were 8x170,but vans were still 8x6.5
 

SLOWPOKE693

🖕TROUBLES🖕
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299
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Somewhere in Texas
Good info in here. I'm like the OP and fed up with the rear drums on my F250. Pretty sure one of the linings came unglued last week. Heard a brief grinding sound coming out of the rear and then the pedal got lower. Fuck those drum brakes!
 

Toreadorranger

Atomic Test Lab Rat
Joined
May 21, 2020
Member Number
874
Messages
640
Location
CT
I ended up buying the lugnut4x4 kit. it went together pretty good. I just need to hook up the parking brake

Ive been trying to decide between it and the Ruffstuff kit. Did you end up having to use the spacers with the caliper mounts? I really want to give the Electric Tesla calipers a go for ebrake purposes though.
 

ANGELO

Red Numb Skull
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
453
Messages
242
Location
BRADENTON FL
Good info in here. I'm like the OP and fed up with the rear drums on my F250. Pretty sure one of the linings came unglued last week. Heard a brief grinding sound coming out of the rear and then the pedal got lower. Fuck those drum brakes!

and those retainer springs for the shoes...
go disk. was definitely worth the money.

Ive been trying to decide between it and the Ruffstuff kit. Did you end up having to use the spacers with the caliper mounts? I really want to give the Electric Tesla calipers a go for ebrake purposes though.
I went with the lugnut kit because ruff stuff didnt have the parking brake kit in stock, and i was iffy it would clear my wheels.
i ended up having to space out the caliper bracket quite a bit using washers. but its in now and works great. the parking brake took a little bit to figure out, but i got it and it hold better then my drums while still releasing
 

F350

New member
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Sep 13, 2020
Member Number
2864
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2
I have used the cadillac calipers for the e brake.fuck that setup,its a pain in the ass never works good. Last few we did just used a line lock kit or mico line kit for a wrecker.
 

Pt_Ranger_v8

A dministrator
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May 19, 2020
Member Number
406
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722
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flyover land
I'd run the lugnut kit, but only cause they sponsored my sig 😄

I picked up a set of 08 F250 axles for a song, so it's not a concern anymore.
 

welndmn

Well Done Man
Joined
May 21, 2020
Member Number
1008
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362
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Concord, CA
You can either spend the money on a disc brake kit, or spend the money on re drilling the newer hubs for 8 on 6.5 pattern.
If it were me, I'd rather have the ford engineered brakes. Buy a newer Superduty 10.5 and swap your crap on it.
 

Hyde

Andgoseek
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May 26, 2020
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1468
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145
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North Idaho
I had a bad squeak yesterday on my 97 f350, pulled the rear apart and the springs fell out on the driver side. Second time ive dealt with them in the last 30k miles and they never work right anyway. Im ordering the Ruffstuff kit
 

Toreadorranger

Atomic Test Lab Rat
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874
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Johnny Longrifle

Slow learner
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286
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NW CO
I've been looking for a solution for the rear drums on my 96 as well. Another problem with swapping in a 10.5 rear end is that the parking brakes in those don't work worth a fawk either. I can and have built the brackets to mount front calipers on the rear, (for my Jeep that runs a 10.25) but I would still like to have a parking brake that will hold in my truck.
 

CDA 455 II

ANFAQUE2
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25
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No Country For Old Men
I've been looking for a solution for the rear drums on my 96 as well. Another problem with swapping in a 10.5 rear end is that the parking brakes in those don't work worth a fawk either. I can and have built the brackets to mount front calipers on the rear, (for my Jeep that runs a 10.25) but I would still like to have a parking brake that will hold in my truck.


nOOB question:
Depending on your T-case; doesn't someone make a t-case parking brake?
 

arse_sidewards

Masshole
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nOOB question:
Depending on your T-case; doesn't someone make a t-case parking brake?

Only for 205s, Atlas and other cases that are popular in the aftermarket. If you have fucktons of wheelbase and a BW1356 you can stick a driveline parking brake off a motorhome on one by making a new tailhousing since the 1356 input spline is the same as the output and the driveline parking brake bolts on the same way a transfer case does.

Of course the tailhousings are just aluminum or aluminum/magnesium alloy so if your case has a flange output you can just weld whatever flange you want to them and then run whatever brake you want that uses a 4x4.25 drum/rotor.
 

Johnny Longrifle

Slow learner
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NW CO
I think MICO locks are the answer. Or better yet an IBB alternative cheaper (appropriately related for the pressure, and assuming your calipers and or wheel cylinders wont leak off) valve that is easily engaged. I want my parking brake to hold for a week or more, no matter what. The truck might slide down the hill from lack of traction, but the brakes better be locked up tight. While not quite legal for you guys who live in areas with inspection requirements, this might be my best bet.

The problem with a tcase mounted brake, especially a home brewed one, is that the drum or rotor that you buy from NAPA is not rated or capable of handling speeds ~4X faster than what they were made for. For example, your wheel brake rotor or drum turns 615 RPM at 60 MPH. A driveshaft mounted rotor or drum with 4:10 gears in the diff is turning 2522RPM, equivalent to 420MPH. :eek:

Not something you just throw together Friday nite with some beers and buddys. All of the driveshaft mounted brakes I have come across, (Willys jeeps, E-series vans and the occasional class 5 or 6 straight truck) I didn't pay a whole bunch of attention to the composition of the drums, but they are definitely not cast. Maybe forged or spun steel?
 

arse_sidewards

Masshole
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Member Number
71
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2,626
Location
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I think MICO locks are the answer. Or better yet an IBB alternative cheaper (appropriately related for the pressure, and assuming your calipers and or wheel cylinders wont leak off) valve that is easily engaged. I want my parking brake to hold for a week or more, no matter what. The truck might slide down the hill from lack of traction, but the brakes better be locked up tight. While not quite legal for you guys who live in areas with inspection requirements, this might be my best bet.

The problem with a tcase mounted brake, especially a home brewed one, is that the drum or rotor that you buy from NAPA is not rated or capable of handling speeds ~4X faster than what they were made for. For example, your wheel brake rotor or drum turns 615 RPM at 60 MPH. A driveshaft mounted rotor or drum with 4:10 gears in the diff is turning 2522RPM, equivalent to 420MPH. :eek:


:shaking:

Nobody is running a 13" drum off a 14b as their driveline brake. The kinds of cars that tend to donate drums/rotors for drive-line applications tend to be 80s and 90s economy cars with small discs that don't annihilate ground clearance or require cab cutting. You need to run the numbers on the kinds of speeds those vehicles are turning their axles at when going top speed. 420mph sounds impressive but the rotors are generally only exceeding the performance envelope the OEM intended by a factor of 1-2 depending on your axle ratio and tire size. Considering that they don't blow up with any sort of regularity I wouldn't be concerned.
 

landen300

Well-known member
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Aug 13, 2020
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2717
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69
Location
MI
I'm late to the game on this discussion, but I remember a while back 4 wheeler magazine or Petersens swapped a D70 with discs from a later model G3500 Chevy/GMC work van into a Ford truck.
They were able to maintain the 8x6.5 bolt pattern and get a factory disc brake setup and just had to weld perches on as I recall. Seems like another good lateral move option.

I have Ruff Stuff non-parking brake disc conversion on my Ford, and they are great.
 
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