Bible '05+ Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Tech & Info

Those are good solution but were out of stock when o did mine

I used these. Worked out well. Also used Artec's SD truss for a JK swap if I remember correctly, these may have been in the kit. That whole thing worked out really well. Gave me a lot of good options for other stuff I needed to add for my custom fabbed set up.
 
i took off all that was need for the link mount to be welded to the tube, and then welded the cast to the link mount on the insie where they meet
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I would drill through the cast into the tube and make some more plug welds. Easy to do at any stage.
 
Have been meaning to say the same. Me and a group of friends stopped pulling these and flipping them as the current market price makes the effort not worth it. This is in michigan.

Can get complete 300 to 500 depending on what level of high the you pull parts counter kid is. Can't get more than 500 for them off craigslist or book face.
 
Have been meaning to say the same. Me and a group of friends stopped pulling these and flipping them as the current market price makes the effort not worth it. This is in michigan.

Can get complete 300 to 500 depending on what level of high the you pull parts counter kid is. Can't get more than 500 for them off craigslist or book face.
Ha some dummy in my area has a pair listed at $2500 on FB, laugh emoji added to his add.
 
Cross posting for the unfortunates that aren't following my build thread. :flipoff2:Dust Buggy

Here is an option to all the stock ball joint/uniball outers that the aftermarket is saturated with.

Welded them up which took about 6 hours.
.030 ER70S
Triple passed all the corners
19.7V 413WFS on a Multimatic 220
Didn’t stop to measure, didn’t want to know.
They would pivot freely until welding the inner C’s then they got tight.
Once cooled, I pulled the bolts which came out easy by hand. Then pulled them apart with a pry bar.
Put them back together with both thrust washers on the top with no pivot pin shims and no bottom washers.
They went together easy by hand. Perfect axial alignment, literally zero binding with 45° of steering. No post tolerance increase.
The C’s shrunk by .055” from upper to lower load surface.
The concentricity of the knuckle and the C’s were .063” with the knuckle being lower than the C’s.
I think once the thrust washers are seated and load applied that .063” will near .00”.
What that adds up to is the lower bottom thrust washer will need to be 3/16” instead of 1/8”. The upper bottom thrust washer will need to be 1/16”. The upper thrust washers will both be 1/8” as planned.
Grease fittings will be 1/8” drilled through holes 90° to bushings with 1/4-28” threaded fittings.
The hub ID which was .008" over, closed up and the unit bearing will not drop in. The studs are loose but the ID needs some drum standing.
Still to weld are the upper and lower ear laminated sections after grease port machining and some of the inner knuckle fillets. This might even help close the C shrink gap.

Notes to old self...
Weld everything out except for the lower C ears, save for last.
Overbore the unit bearing ID to .015"
Do this in the winter when its cold and not 94°

IMG_9905.jpeg

IMG_9903.jpeg

IMG_9904.jpeg

IMG_9901.jpeg

IMG_9902.jpeg
 
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Cross posting for the unfortunates that aren't following my build thread. :flipoff2:
Here is an option to all the stock ball joint/uniball outers that the aftermarket is saturated with.

Welded them up which took about 6 hours.
.030 ER70S
Triple passed all the corners
19.7V 413WFS on a Multimatic 220
Didn’t stop to measure, didn’t want to know.
They would pivot freely until welding the inner C’s then they got tight.
Once cooled, I pulled the bolts which came out easy by hand. Then pulled them apart with a pry bar.
Put them back together with both thrust washers on the top with no pivot pin shims and no bottom washers.
They went together easy by hand. Perfect axial alignment, literally zero binding with 45° of steering. No post tolerance increase.
The C’s shrunk by .055” from upper to lower load surface.
The concentricity of the knuckle and the C’s were .063” with the knuckle being lower than the C’s.
I think once the thrust washers are seated and load applied that .063” will near .00”.
What that adds up to is the lower bottom thrust washer will need to be 3/16” instead of 1/8”. The upper bottom thrust washer will need to be 1/16”. The upper thrust washers will both be 1/8” as planned.
Grease fittings will be 1/8” drilled through holes 90° to bushings with 1/4-28” threaded fittings.
The hub ID which was .008" over, closed up and the unit bearing will not drop in. The studs are loose but the ID needs some drum standing.
Still to weld are the upper and lower ear laminated sections after grease port machining and some of the inner knuckle fillets. This might even help close the C shrink gap.

Notes to old self...
Weld everything out except for the lower C ears, save for last.
Overbore the unit bearing ID to .015"
Do this in the winter when its cold and not 94°

IMG_9905.jpeg

IMG_9903.jpeg

IMG_9904.jpeg

IMG_9901.jpeg

IMG_9902.jpeg
I am for sure a fortunate, unfortunate now! These things are SICK! :rockon:

Thanks for cross posting so this thread has more life put into it :lmao:

I'm sure it's covered in your build thread.. what were the objectives that you were looking to solve with this built set? A High steer arm that won't separate and being able to beat them funny without cracking? Or was Akerman a focus, crazier steering angles?
 
I am for sure an unfortunate, fortunate now! These things are SICK! :rockon:

Thanks for cross posting so this thread has more life put into it :lmao:

I'm sure it's covered in your build thread.. what were the objectives that you were looking to solve with this built set? A High steer arm that won't separate and being able to beat them funny without cracking? Or was Akerman a focus, crazier steering angles?
90% of the aftermarket are still using ball joints upper and lower. 10% are using spherical bearings which are downrated to 20% or less when running axial loads and you still have to replace them as they have a race program lifespan.
A tree ran into me going about 8MPH and the upper F550 ball joint left the chat in the middle of nowhere.
My old buggy which these where load designed around hit a 3 foot boulder at 25MPH and we thought the whole front end was going to be gone and only the beadlock ring was bent.
The super duty upper ball joint was never designed to see anything other than payload.
The lower ball joint carries all the load and the upper is just for alignment.
Pretty much every off road SD axle is going to see loading on the upper ball joint from steering to impact to traction.
You have to run ball joint eliminators to keep the thing together and even then the upper pocket that holds the BJE bushing is thin and weak.
I have seen more than enough ag and industrial equipment run bushings with zero issues so I made a set of double shear bushing outers.
The material cost of the fabricated set is near 25% to 50% of the ball joint options once it is ready to roll.
This is a fabricators project which is not for everyone but so far it has been fun and hopefully someone else builds a set.
 
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90% of the aftermarket are still using ball joints upper and lower. 10% are using spherical bearings which are downrated to 20% or less when running axial loads and you still have to replace them as they have a race program lifespan.
A tree ran into me going about 8MPH and the upper F550 ball joint left the chat in the middle of nowhere.
My old buggy which these where load designed around hit a 3 foot boulder at 25MPH and we thought the whole front end was going to be gone and only the beadlock ring was bent.
The super duty upper ball joint was never designed to see anything other than payload.
The lower ball joint carries all the load and the upper is just for alignment.
Pretty much every off road SD axle is going to see loading on the upper ball joint from steering to impact to traction.
You have to run ball joint eliminators to keep the thing together and even then the upper pocket that holds the BJE bushing is thin and weak.
I have seen more than enough ag and industrial equipment run bushings with zero issues so I made a set of double shear bushing outers.
The material cost of the fabricated set is near 25% to 50% of the ball joint options once it is ready to roll.
This is a fabricators project which is not for everyone but so far it has been fun and hopefully someone else builds a set.
You sold me at double sheer knuckle joints! I'm checking your build thread out :smokin:
 
Just curious about the unit bearing pockets. If you had thicker material, would you machine them out of one piece or was it just easier to cut them out of the same plate with everything else?

Also the setup looks bitchin
 
5 plates of .5” equal 2.5”
I could have done the main .5” with two 1” plates stacked but the laser cut quality on 1” plate was not going to be as good as the .5” plate.
Could have waterjetted the 2” plate as well.
Way easier to send all the files to one shop and say run all of it on a .5” plate.
There is also a step of the ID for the seal vs hub so the plates allow for that easier than machine boring.
Knowing how much it shrunk, I think the hub ID could be lasered and sanded with no machine work.
 
I think I may go the EMF balljoint route over the BKOR King Joints I have currently....not sure yet.
 
I think I may go the EMF balljoint route over the BKOR King Joints I have currently....not sure yet.
I'm running the EMF joints in mine.. My deciding factor on what I wanted to run came down to service intervals and keeping dirt out. IF mine were trailered to trails, I most likely would have ran those King Joints for piece of mind. The MOST important part of BJs is making sure the tapered insert for the upper C isn't bottomed.. Which EMF addresses with their design over other brands.
 
I'm running the EMF joints in mine.. My deciding factor on what I wanted to run came down to service intervals and keeping dirt out. IF mine were trailered to trails, I most likely would have ran those King Joints for piece of mind. The MOST important part of BJs is making sure the tapered insert for the upper C isn't bottomed.. Which EMF addresses with their design over other brands.
Yeah...I originally bought the Kings for a vehicle that would be driving on the street, so the EMFs make a little more sense. I may just eventually use the Kings for the wife's JLUR which is a lot more offroad dedicated.
 
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